Ladder Rack

jflatley · Post by **jflatley** » Mon Aug 11, 2008 8:45 am

I have been doing some searching around for a ladder rack for the CC, haven't found a one piece full rack. Just the two stansion type. So I decided to build one, I have been collecting materials and tacking stuff together as I get it. I think it will turn out rather nice.
Angle Iron to the bed rails, 2" OD piping up, angle for the sides and flat stock for cross members. I am trying to find some stiff meshing to lay down over the cab so nothing can scratch that up really bad.

The only problem is the local metal man wants $23 for a piece of 8' angle, I need to get like 4 more pieces to finish. It will be 8' x 4' add an inch to both ways. Big enough to carry sheetrock or plywoood or my favorite, the 9'3" GFG surfboard.

What I was wondering is if any of you have built or bought one specific to the CC bed. If you did, post a picture, just so I don't loose my mind trying to get the angles added up and straight.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Aug 11, 2008 2:29 pm

anybody have a ladder rack on theirs?

Softopper.com offers a Contractors / ladder rack.

DLP · Post by **DLP** » Mon Aug 11, 2008 4:39 pm

I don't have a ladder rack. But I did make a light bar/lumber hauler. It works good for the kayak and 2x4, 4x4s ect. I have a T-Bar bed extender that goes into the Reese hitch for hauling boards overhead. By inserting it into the reciever the other way, you can haul 4 x 8 sheets in the bed.

jflatley · Post by **jflatley** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 9:09 am

Well I had to take a break from the project for a while but am now am back in business.
I am building a full contractors rack.

I have the frame layed out and the stansions set, I just need to find a few more hands one weekend to get it set and finish the welding.

I ended up building a 2x4 box teh same size as the truck bed and mounted the stansions to that. Then welded the frame to the stansions. I used one of my sons toys as the height factor of the cab and made it about 5" off of the top of the cab.

I think it is going to look prety good.

I do have a question, is there a way to get the rack
"aluminumized?"
I am trying to keep away from spray paint unles I have to and want it to be aluminum colored.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 9:17 am

Powder coating would be the best option and it's very durable especially if the coating is baked on.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 9:30 am

Pictures would be great!

jflatley · Post by **jflatley** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 9:40 am

I will take pictures when I get off of work.

I would imagine that Powder coating would be something very expensive for something of this nature.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 9:52 am

Get an estimate. It is a lifetime solution and adds great value to the rack.
Another option might be some sort of bedliner.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 11:01 am

There are several companies that make kits to do your own powder coating, but obviously you won't be able to bake them in a oven unless you know someone with a huge oven.

Sears even makes a powder coating kit now.

Steve

jflatley · Post by **jflatley** » Fri Oct 24, 2008 6:53 am

Here is what I have of the ladder rack. I started work on it last night again and found that putting the stansions on the bottom and fitting the rack to it was a whole lot easier.

http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m410 ... 1748-1.jpg
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m410 ... G_1747.jpg

http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m410 ... G_1750.jpg
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m410 ... G_1746.jpg

Woops! Please link images over 100k-HJ

jflatley · Post by **jflatley** » Fri Oct 24, 2008 6:56 am

I thought that the key element of powder coating was the baking. I thought that is how it became so durable.

In the pictures you can see the wood template that I was workiing with.

There is going to be another cross member in it, right about where the front stansions are at. I am waiting to get it all together and find the most applicable spot for the cross member to go.

I didn't know this but the bed of our trucks is 2" wider at the cab than at the tailgate. Sort of threw me off guard for a second. Six times of measuring later, I said that it was not me and had to be the bed.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Oct 24, 2008 7:27 am

You are right about baking the powder coat that is where it gets the durability as well as the gloss.
There are electrostatic painting systems being sold as powder coaters. While these do a good job of painting bars, they are not powder coated. Be careful if you purchase one.
Steve is right that they do sell small powder coaters too. You still need to bake the parts as far as I know. I have not seen a cold method.
If you have an oven that size there really is no need to invest in a powder coater. Baked enamel is really durable and you don't have any special equipment to buy.

Consider taking a step back here. The corners of the top might look better rounded. At least the two on the front. You can buy a couple 90 degree mandrel bends to do this. Muffler pipe is plenty sturdy enough. This is just an idea to make it look a little more professional.

When you are done take the time and expense to sand blast it. That will give the coating something to bite into.
Next consult your local paint shop. Look for trailer paint. There is a self etching industrial paint that is used on trailers. This is very durable and can be applied without primer. A coat of good primer might still be the best plan though.

Blasted, primed and painted it will do just fine.

jflatley · Post by **jflatley** » Fri Oct 24, 2008 10:31 am

Thanks guys, that will come later when the thing is finished and ready.

Anyways, here is the first test fitting. Lines up really well, needed a little straightening to the truck. Maybe an inch to the left, not much at all. I guess the jig got twisted.

HJ, I had thought about making that a 90 all the way around. I didn't have enough pipe to make it with cutting the pipes to 90s but I hadn't thought about putting a sheath 90 over it. Good idea. I will look into that. Thanks.

http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m410 ... G_1756.jpg

http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m410 ... G_1757.jpg

jflatley · Post by **jflatley** » Fri Oct 24, 2008 10:34 am

How can you tell when an image is over 100k,

I went ahead and linked these, I don't know how many pixels they are.

jflatley · Post by **jflatley** » Fri Oct 24, 2008 10:35 am

That back stansion was the one that needed a little persuading to do what it was suppose to. It has been corrected now.

Let me know what yall think. I am not completely sold on it yet.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Oct 24, 2008 11:46 am

jflatley wrote:How can you tell when an image is over 100k?

Right click on the picture, select properties, and it wil tell you the size of the picture.

Forum Image posted limit 100k max

Did you make that front bumper grill guard?

Steve

jflatley · Post by **jflatley** » Fri Oct 24, 2008 1:08 pm

That is a fishing rod rack. I have a drive on pass for the Assateague Island ORV side. I go fishing on the beach a few times a month, less when it gets cold but still go out.

http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m410 ... G_1762.jpg

jflatley · Post by **jflatley** » Fri Oct 24, 2008 1:13 pm

I got it all welded together, I still need to put some rails on it and clean it, paint, etc. but here is the "finished" product.

All together, it is 7'6" long, 4'3" wide and 23'' off of the bed rails. made from old galvanized well piping that I had and a small MIG welder. Total cost, TIME.

http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m410 ... G_1761.jpg

http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m410 ... G_1760.jpg

http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m410 ... G_1759.jpg

http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m410 ... G_1764.jpg

http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m410 ... G_1757.jpg

jflatley · Post by **jflatley** » Fri Oct 24, 2008 1:33 pm

Here is what I am going to do with it
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m410 ... 1761_A.jpg

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Oct 24, 2008 2:11 pm

I have one much like that on a service box at work. It is built from a light gauge "muffler" type pipe. Works well. It did get one little bend in a cross bar, but I doubt you will have a heavy handed operator using a six yard loader on it anytime. That is a nice design.

Careful of welding galvanized pipe. Drink milk and heed any flu like symptoms. Keep the place well ventilated and grind off the zinc if you can.

Inhaling large amounts of zinc (as zinc dust or fumes from smelting or welding) can cause a specific short-term disease called metal fume fever. However, very little is known about the long-term effects of breathing zinc dust or fumes.

On the subject of welding galvanized steel....as I understand it, zinc oxide (ZnO) is the main problem. Exposure to ZnO can lead to Metal Fume Fever, and can lead to such happy things as bronchitis, pneumonia, pulmonary edema, nasal cancer and even bone damage.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Oct 24, 2008 2:15 pm

jflatley wrote:That is a fishing rod rack. I have a drive on pass for the Assateague Island ORV side. I go fishing on the beach a few times a month, less when it gets cold but still go out.

That's a cool idea, and it makes more sense to me now.

I thought you were maybe launching fireworks from the front of your CC.

j/k

Steve

DLP · Post by **DLP** » Fri Oct 24, 2008 6:08 pm

Pretty nice. When you get it finished, you might want to plug the pipe ends. They tend to whistle going down the hi-way. I have used Great-Stuff expanding foam in the ladder rungs on the company vans. On my CC's light bar, I used the rubber plumbing plugs with the bolt that goes through the middle and swells them in tight.

jflatley · Post by **jflatley** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 7:53 am

I have heard that about welding to galvanized. I have never felt any effects of it though. Most of the welding on this was outside, with a light breeze so I am fine on this one.

I picked up some black iron piping today to do the rails. I have a maple tree out back that has a fork in it. That is my pipe bender. I am going to have to go on the hunt for some more well piping to finish off the front.

I also have a few left over cans of that expanding foam, I was planning on filling the main tubes with it. I just want to wait until the welding is done.

The thing ways at least 80 -90 lbs. Trying to get that thing on and off the truck by myself is a task of tasks, but I have done it a few times so far.

jflatley · Post by **jflatley** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 7:56 am

i think my next project is going to be, figure out about gene splicing in plants. Try to get a 50 lbs tomato or a six foot ear of corn.

I have figured out that if you take say a white dogwood, cut a few of the braches and stick some hormones and a branch from a say red dogwood in there, you can have a red and white dogwood for a few years. It won't stay but for two or three years. Now if I can figure out how to make a blue dogwood tree. Whahahahahaha......