Decided to keep the truck and tow the drag car
Moderator: F9K9
Decided to keep the truck and tow the drag car
I just can't seem to get nearly what I want for this truck, so I'm going to keep it and tow my 3500 lb car with it. No trailer brakes makes the rear end real pushy, but what I'm concerned about is the transmission.
How will it do? I'm towing about 40 minutes, mostly highway. Starting from a stop up a hill is pretty rough too.
How will it do? I'm towing about 40 minutes, mostly highway. Starting from a stop up a hill is pretty rough too.
- HenryJ
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Whats your gearing?
Do you have a cooler?
How far are you towing and how often?
How many miles on the truck?
Any modifications?
What year, make and model?
Do you have a cooler?
How far are you towing and how often?
How many miles on the truck?
Any modifications?
What year, make and model?
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
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- HenryJ
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Check the RPO code list for what gears you have. There were different ratios available. There is a sticky for decoding it.
How often will you be towing and how far?
How often will you be towing and how far?
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- Horsehammerr
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I towed regularly with mine. Aside from keeping heat out of the motor it did a fine job. I think a reflash to enable Tow/haul mode would've cured my problems, but I got impatient and traded it for a fullsize SUV.
I'd make sure you have a transcooler at the minimum. 3500lb car plus a 1500lb trailer is right up there around the rated capacity of 5,200lbs. I towed my Xtreme on a trailer once, it was touchy, but not terrible. The brakes are adequate, just plan ahead as best you can.
I'd make sure you have a transcooler at the minimum. 3500lb car plus a 1500lb trailer is right up there around the rated capacity of 5,200lbs. I towed my Xtreme on a trailer once, it was touchy, but not terrible. The brakes are adequate, just plan ahead as best you can.
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- killian96ss
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Don't use OD while towing , use 3rd (D). This is also stated in the owners manual.
You definitely need a trans cooler if you want the trans to last for a while.
Heat is the #1 cause of transmission failure!
I would also look into getting a larger 2nd gear servo which will quicken the 1-2 and 3-4 shifts and also helps reduce heat.
Another option would be an aftermarket torque converter that is specially designed for towing that has a lower stall speed around 1500-1700 rpm since the factory converter stalls pretty high @ 1900-2000 rpm.
Higher stall = more heat generated.
If you do get a trans cooler make sure the inlet and outet are either on top or on the side to prevent air pockets.
Steve
You definitely need a trans cooler if you want the trans to last for a while.
Heat is the #1 cause of transmission failure!
I would also look into getting a larger 2nd gear servo which will quicken the 1-2 and 3-4 shifts and also helps reduce heat.
Another option would be an aftermarket torque converter that is specially designed for towing that has a lower stall speed around 1500-1700 rpm since the factory converter stalls pretty high @ 1900-2000 rpm.
Higher stall = more heat generated.
If you do get a trans cooler make sure the inlet and outet are either on top or on the side to prevent air pockets.
Steve
I know the manual states that, but if they didn't you'd have idiots using it on hilly roads and would burn up quick. I can't see how its harmful to use it on a steady flat road at 70+ mph, but I could be wrong.
I'll pick up a cooler. Maybe a deeper pan too. The servo seems to be a pita, and I might change the converter when the trans blows, they usually go around 120k right? Or if I have to change my leaking rear main engine seal.
What about the electronic shift improver?
I never thought about the air pockets, thanks.
I'll pick up a cooler. Maybe a deeper pan too. The servo seems to be a pita, and I might change the converter when the trans blows, they usually go around 120k right? Or if I have to change my leaking rear main engine seal.
What about the electronic shift improver?
I never thought about the air pockets, thanks.
- quickbiker
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- killian96ss
- Crew K Elite
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Towing a heavy load in 4th while the torque converter is locked can burn up the OD band and then you won't have OD anymore.
I think it's ok to tow in 4th with a light load, but not with the weight you are talking about.
BTW, you should already have a deep pan and there really aren't any other options for trucks already equipped with the deep pan.
I personally don't like the electronic shift improvers , but some people use them and don't have any problems.
I think custom PCM programming is a better option for improving shift points and shift firmness, and tweaking torque management.
Steve
I think it's ok to tow in 4th with a light load, but not with the weight you are talking about.
BTW, you should already have a deep pan and there really aren't any other options for trucks already equipped with the deep pan.
I personally don't like the electronic shift improvers , but some people use them and don't have any problems.
I think custom PCM programming is a better option for improving shift points and shift firmness, and tweaking torque management.
Steve