HELP! Gas leak!* tank and pump replacement

turkeestalker · Post by **turkeestalker** » Fri Aug 22, 2008 7:36 pm

Alright, anyone who read my, 'how much time' post in tires lifts and suspension, knows that like a fool, I broke my gas tank. The joys of plastics. What you don't know is that when I was wrestling it back into place after removing it and fixing it properly, weekend before last, one of the plastic pieces from the sending unit snapped where the hose attaches. the one marked 'R'. I am assuming that the 'R' stands for return. but I'm not sure. I've located another tank at a reasonable price, complete with fill tube and sending unit, 2 bills, but it will cost me another bill in gas to go and get it, the salvage yard is 3 hours away. Tonight I smelled gas when I parked the truck, looked, and there is a little puddle around the sending unit, the repair is leaking now.
Does anyone understand sending units well enough to know what the 'R' stands for? Is it an actual wet line or a vent? Could I make the trip to get the replacement? Or is the risk too great?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Aug 22, 2008 7:39 pm

I wish I could help. I did have a "loaned" GM Tech manual until my PC took a dump a few months back. Hopefully someone can chime in.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Aug 22, 2008 7:40 pm

The risk is too great!
That is the return line from the fuel pressure regulator. It should always be flowing fuel back to the tank as its method of lowering the fuel pressure. It could run as high as 60 psi. Not repairable.
Find another ride to get the new tank.

You have three lines on the Fuel Pump Module Assembly. One about 3/8" from the fuel pump delivering fuel to the fuel injector rail, a smaller line about 1/4" coming from the regulator returning unused pressure back to the tank, and the last is about 7/16". That goes to the tank vent valve which draws through the charcoal canister.

A total guess on the sizes , done from memory.

turkeestalker · Post by **turkeestalker** » Fri Aug 22, 2008 7:53 pm

I was afraid of that. I've made arrangements for my sons to spend the night with friends so that I can leave in the wee hours, get to the yard when they open, home again well before noon. Guess I'll be renting a car to do it. The good news is that the guy has a ZR5 wheel for 1 bill which I can pick up while I'm there, two birds. guess I'll spend less in gas with a rental too if I go for one of those econo boxes. Gonna be a swell trip! GGGGRRRRRRR!

turkeestalker · Post by **turkeestalker** » Sat Aug 23, 2008 12:16 pm

Been back home with the boys now for quite a bit, just cleaned up the tank and sending unit. Actually it is a strong tank, less the fused tube for the fill tube to attach! Go figure!
I got a full sized for the price of a mid on the rental, $26 bucks. With $32 in fuel I figure I saved maybe $20 from driving my own truck next weekend like I had planned, had my repair held. Left out at 3:30 am and returned at 10 on the button. Had the boys back and rental returned by 11:30.
Guy showed up a little before 7, so everything worked out great. Parts were waiting as he'd said earlier in the week in preparation for my planned trip next weekend.
Had the opportunity to compare the steel vs. poly side by side in his warehouse, the differences are not that great, mostly in the shape of the rear of the tank. I think that a full swap with the straps, sending unit, and fill tube would work without too much trouble. Just not sure about the canister, looked different than the one on my poly, could be an issue there considering the issue of vent on fill tube with steel, and no vent with the poly.
I'm blabbering on here because I wound up doing all of this on about an hour sleep last night after rising at 4:30 yesterday morning and working all day. It won't be too hard because I've been there and done that, but I just don't want to dig in on the swap at the hottest time of the day when I desperately need a nap. You fellas have probably never witnessed the skill with which a union electrician can stall and waste time!

I think it may be off to the pool for me and the boys until it cools down a bit in a few hours, and since it is within walking distance, it sounds like a plan to me!
Thank you Brule for clarifying, suspected that to start, but your post convinced me to get the rental. My day would probably still be spent less my sons and far from home if I'd have attempted to drive my truck to Edlin.
BTW, the yard I went to was really impressive. I've never seen such cleanliness and organization in a salvage yard in my life. They tend to specialize in S10's too. Very nice set up. The guy even told me that he comes to the auction once a week in St. Louis, he'll deliver anything I want on his way through when it's not a need it right now spot like this developed into.
Burkholders Truck Sales in Edina, Missouri. 660-397-2551

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Aug 23, 2008 3:44 pm

Get in good with them. That relationship will pay you back ten fold. Sounds like you are on the right track.

Give the fill hose as much slack as you can on each end. Just enough to clamp hose to tube and you will have enough for an installation with a bodylift. No extension piece needed.

turkeestalker · Post by **turkeestalker** » Sat Aug 23, 2008 6:09 pm

Installation done, didn't begin until around 5:30 because it was so warm today and the boys were having a blast at the pool.
The fella at the yard had told me that often, the sending unit will fail after sitting in open air, and suggested that I simply unplug it and install the one from my tank. I decided to test it first by plugging in the electric before installing it into the tank, and manually working the float while watching the guage. Seemed to work fine, so I installed the unit he sold me into the tank, and installed the tank on the truck. Poured in the gas. Turned the key.
Hmmm. Crank crank crank crank. Never thought about the possibility that the pump might have been bad. Or with my lack of understanding, could it be something else? Any ideas? How would I check the fuel pump?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Aug 23, 2008 6:17 pm

turkeestalker wrote: How would I check the fule pump?

Do you hear a buzz or whirring from the fuel tank? Take the cap off and listen when someone turns the key to the on position.

You are going to get good at this tank removal stuff.

turkeestalker · Post by **turkeestalker** » Sat Aug 23, 2008 7:26 pm

Unfortunately I think I already have. I will say as a suggestion to anyone who winds up having to drop thier tank. Use jack stands under your front leaf spring mounts and get em up high by jacking under the rearend, once set, you can drop the jack and gain easy access to the hoses and electric by going over the rearend and between the bed. Do not mess with the front strap. You can remove the four bolts that fasten the cross member to the frame as the forward support of the tank, and the strap and all come out still attached. You will just have to use a box end on one of the bolts and be patient. Then take out the bolt for the rear strap that is on the inside toward the center of the truck. Having the straps loosened like I'm sayinig allows you to drop the tank until it catches between frame and drive shaft, leaving plenty of room to get at things if you go in the way I've described over the rear axle. Once disconnected it works between to drop out fairly easily. Remember, this is if you have the poly tank, not sure about the steel.

As far as the fill tube, I think if you've got a poly tank, with the smaller diameter fill tube that does not have a separate vent hose attached to it, you will be splicing the hose. It seems that the fill port is somehow fused to the hose, maybe from the use of heat in it's manufacture. You will not be gaining any length on that end. Having two at my disposal, I used my original inlet for the gas pump, cut a section of the metal tube as a spacer from the one I picked up, and cut the lower section of that hose off longer by about 2 or so inches. Spliced with clamps but butted the hoses against one another. Worked much better.
Now to just get the truck running!

With the traffic on this street which runs in front of the condo I lease, I honestly couldn't catch a gap to listen, I think I heard it, but will try agian in the morning when the traffic is lighter. I've a feeling I'll be swapping out my old pump and asking this guy for a replacement for the one he sold me in the sending unit assembly.
Lovely weekend!

turkeestalker · Post by **turkeestalker** » Sat Aug 23, 2008 7:40 pm

GRRRRRRR!
I remembeer how loud the pump was on my '98. Got used to it and never noticed it on this one. Just tried once more and caught a gap in traffic.....nuttin!
I will be dropping the tank again in the morning, but looking at my original sending unit, swapping pumps looks a little intimidating, any pointers for me to screw up anyway?

turkeestalker · Post by **turkeestalker** » Sun Aug 24, 2008 7:10 am

OK, tank dropped sending unit assembly removed. How the heck do I replace the pump? Can't see for the life of me how the heck that damned thing is supposed to come apart or out. Is the trick that it is not?

turkeestalker · Post by **turkeestalker** » Sun Aug 24, 2008 9:18 am

Seems you can disassemble everything except the fuel pump from the sending unit assembly that drops into the tank. I did, but can't see a way to remove the pump without breaking something, and nobody is offering any advice. So my assumption would be that I need to again repair mine, reinstall it, and contact the fella to tell him that the pump is bad on the one he sold me. So if you go and buy a fuel pump it comes with the sending unit assembly that slips and locks into the top of the tank huh?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Aug 24, 2008 9:26 am

I thought that they were basically one piece. I know that you do not need the special tool that is mentioned below.

GM Data wrote:Fuel Sender Assembly Replacement Utility/Crew Cab
Tools Required

J 44402 Fuel Tank Sending Unit Wrench
Removal Procedure

Caution

Before servicing any electrical component, the ignition key must be in the OFF or LOCK position and all electrical loads must be OFF, unless instructed otherwise in these procedures. If a tool or equipment could easily come in contact with a live exposed electrical terminal, also disconnect the negative battery cable. Failure to follow these precautions may cause personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle or its components.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the fuel tank. Refer to Fuel Tank Replacement .

Notice

Do Not handle the fuel sender assembly by the fuel pipes. The amount of leverage generated by handling the fuel pipes could damage the joints.
3. Remove the fuel sender assembly retaining ring using the J 44402 .
4. Remove the fuel sender assembly and the seal. Discard the seal.

Caution

Drain the fuel from the fuel sender assembly into an approved container in order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury. Never store the fuel in an open container.
5. Clean the fuel sender sealing surfaces.

Installation Procedure

Caution

In order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury that may result from a fuel leak, always replace the fuel sender gasket when reinstalling the fuel sender assembly.
1. Install the new seal on the fuel tank.

Important

The fuel strainer must be in a horizontal position when the fuel sender is installed in the tank. When installing the fuel sender assembly, assure that the fuel strainer does not block full travel of the float arm.
2. Install the fuel sender assembly into the fuel tank.
3. Install the fuel sender assembly retaining ring using the J 44402 .
4. Install the fuel tank. Refer to Fuel Tank Replacement .
5. Refill the fuel tank.
6. Tighten the fuel filler cap.
7. Connect the negative battery cable.
8. Inspect for leaks.
1. Turn ON the ignition for 2 seconds.
2. Turn OFF the ignition for 10 seconds.
3. Turn ON the ignition.
4. Inspect for fuel leaks.

turkeestalker · Post by **turkeestalker** » Sun Aug 24, 2008 9:33 am

From what I can tell they are one piece, in regard to the pump itself and the main assembly, there is no way to separate them, you can remove everything except the actual fuel pump. Funny, the actual sending unit removes easily from the assembly, the pump does not, so why do they commonly call the assembly a sending unit?

All I know is I am more than about sick of this whole business.
I've got two words for GM and they are not Merry Christmas!

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Aug 24, 2008 10:10 am

PM "MILES" and maybe it will give him an email alert. He has replaced a couple in his BlaZeR2. I do feel for you! I have been wrestling with another rear axle and I think it's winning

turkeestalker · Post by **turkeestalker** » Sun Aug 24, 2008 12:43 pm

I gave up. Went to the parts store, purchased two feet of rubber gas line and a couple of clamps. Removed the hose from the frame mounted steel line, whittled the nylon back on the original sending unit, and viola! It is going to have to do for now, I refuse to screw with anything fuel related for a spell. I've no fear of it leaking or failing. I will phone the guy up at Burkholders tomorrow and take it from there.

Reed, I wish you better success with your rear axle.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Aug 24, 2008 1:19 pm

turkeestalker wrote:................. Removed the hose from the frame mounted steel line, whittled the nylon back on the original sending unit, and viola!!..............

It works for me if, it works for you

Sit back and enjoy a couple glasses of ice tea or whatever your preference is

My axle/pinion angle has won out another battle. It had 91* temps on it's side, though

I just want to get a couple of things finished on the heep before labor day and then I need to dive into the CC getting the last few mods and maintenance performed before Oct. It's gotta be ready for the Harlan, KY and Moab, UT meets.

turkeestalker · Post by **turkeestalker** » Sun Aug 24, 2008 1:36 pm

I'm envious, I would love to be participating in both of those. Maybe next year.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Aug 24, 2008 1:49 pm

I am sure the ZR2 meet will be back in your direction next yr. Non Zs are welcome and I still have the copilot seat available for Moab. The better half can't do an hr in a vehicle and that is why it is open.

turkeestalker · Post by **turkeestalker** » Mon Aug 25, 2008 2:21 pm

Phoned Burkholders this morning, fella said he would drop off a replacement before I leave for work at 6 am when he passes through one day next week on his way to the auction. Doesn't really quell the frustration from this weekend, but it is a decent way to handle it on thier part.

turkeestalker · Post by **turkeestalker** » Sun Sep 07, 2008 4:31 am

Just an update. The fella from Burkholders phoned last Tuesday to let me know he was coming into town. Dropped a replacement sending unit off to me. I have my sons this weekend, so it will wait to be installed. Heck, my fix is working fine, I may just wait until it chooses to go south for whatever reason to do anything with it. Lord knows I do NOT relish the idea of dropping the tank yet again!