That Darn Plastic Distributor...

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Tue Jun 24, 2008 3:39 pm

Went to do a cap and rotor on Sunday and the one screw was loose holding the cap on. Yes the ear was cracked, the dealer was the last one in there 4000 miles ago when they did the intake gasket under warranty

I used a machine screw and a nut to re-attach the new cap. I then put a dab of J B weld on the nut to make sure it stays put.
Anybody who knows me knows this fix is temporary.
I'll be looking into the aluminum distributor shown here and the billet one on EBay. The one Henry J found looks to good to be true, with the cap and all for a decent price.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Jun 24, 2008 3:47 pm

Keep us informed and get some pictures. I am waiting for the day I need to change mine. I may give that cast replacement a shot.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Tue Jun 24, 2008 4:35 pm

The slip with my new cap said to remove the vent screens that they have been known to clog and cause corrosion.
Do you think the aluminum one will heat up and eliminate the moisture problem. I didn't see vents in the aluminum one.
I wander if anyone has been stranded with a distributor with two broken ears leaving them sit by the road.

Bungie cords, duct tape might work in a pinch.
I used the cheap cap from Ebay I bought because it had brass contacts and brass screw inserts. It was like $ 9.95 for the cap and rotor...looks just like the Accel one

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Jun 24, 2008 8:09 pm

If the cast distributor doesn't have vents, I'd drill some.
Moist climates should probably pop the screens if they have them.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 4:13 pm

I just ordered one of the United Ignition Wire distributors, that plastic distributor...I can't get the cap to stay tight with one mounting point and the machine screw and nut behind plus I now have two tie wraps as insurance. Also the bargan cap and rotor set I got off ebay...the rotor center pick up was compleatly missing when I checked it today because of a of miss that's been showing up in hot weather off and on for the past two weeks today it got much worse, I'm suprized it even ran, I cant fine any remnants of the pick-up. I have a Borg Warner cap on for now.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Aug 20, 2008 7:35 pm

I feel your pain, Jim! Luckily my extended warranty covered one of my distributer screw ups. I have 8 more months to break stuff that cannot be blamed on any mods and get them fixed.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Fri Aug 22, 2008 4:21 pm

I think I got the last one from Rockauto.com
It is nice

How can I tell if the drive gear is indexed correctly?

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Aug 22, 2008 4:33 pm

Jim wrote:How can I tell if the drive gear is indexed correctly?

Distributor Replacement Removal Procedure

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 4:03 pm

Does anyone know if I should lube the shaft? Where does it get oil, in the old distributors years ago I thought had a hole where oil would enter from the crankcase.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Sep 29, 2008 6:45 pm

The bushings should be ok. You could lube them if you wish, but it probably is not critical.

What is the status of your install?

How was the wear on your stock distributor?

Did you need a crank relearn after the install?

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Tue Sep 30, 2008 2:33 am

HenryJ wrote:The bushings should be ok. You could lube them if you wish, but it probably is not critical.

What is the status of your install?

How was the wear on your stock distributor?

Did you need a crank relearn after the install?

Didn't get to it yet. The gear seems to be on correct, what is a crank relearn, sounds like a no start issue

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Sep 30, 2008 4:22 am

Thought you had one. This one is on my to do list for sure. I can feel some slack in the distributor already. I really want to pull it to check, but that will have to wait.

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Fri Oct 03, 2008 2:22 pm

Jim wrote:
HenryJ wrote:
Did you need a crank relearn after the install?
Didn't get to it yet. The gear seems to be on correct, what is a crank relearn, sounds like a no start issue

Crank relearn is a scanner function (if you have a snap-on or similiar dealer type scanner capable of reflash etc.) which is sometimes needed to correct pcm to crank and cam position information. I had to get one after installing my new wait4meperformance pcm. Without it the SES light would come on continuously and would indicate multiple mis-fire. Relearn done problem solved. One note though if you've installed a reprogrammed pcm or used a scan tool reprogrammer of your own make sure all that is done is a crank position relearn or you'll get a reflash of the entire pcm and lose all your settings whether purchased or personally programmed.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sat Oct 18, 2008 6:22 pm

Today I put the United brand distributor in, as a warning stated in an early post the gear may be 180 degrees off. Mine was, I couldn't get the rotor to aline with the mark I made from the old location. After turning the gear 180 all went well

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sat Oct 18, 2008 6:29 pm

HenryJ wrote:The bushings should be ok. You could lube them if you wish, but it probably is not critical.

What is the status of your install?

How was the wear on your stock distributor?

Did you need a crank relearn after the install?

Done

None I could see, same end play as the new one, gear was starting to get shiny spots from wear.

No need for relearn at this time, I only drove it 20 miles since done, seems fine, no light.

Didn't bother to lube it.

I'm JB Welding the old one as a spare for the Bravada, the dealer was the last one to put the cap back on that 4.3 also (when they did the intake gasket 2 years ago.)

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Oct 18, 2008 7:50 pm

Good move. This is on my list for sure.