Has anyone ever tried ZR2 suspension parts on Crew Cab??
Or do they have a totally different setup as for as shocks, springs...ect..
Just wondering, I've never seen it mentioned here, thought I would give it a shot....
I'm still debating on the best way to raise my ZR5...I think I've ruled out the TB's just don't want that kind of stress...either full suspension lift or maybe body lift... does anybody know what the majority of folks are doing?? I guess it would depend on the application huh?? Off road or just looking good on the street....
Oh well....any help would beat where I'm at now...
The zr2 parts are the exact same except for the rear springs. The front control arms are the same but use mounting points that are extended out from the frame. Using z parts would give you the exact same stance you have.
Most people go with a 2" body lift just because of economics, but if you are going for off-road capability get a 5" trailmaster lift or do a Solid axle swap.
[size=75]1 of 6 Wheatland Yellow Sonoma's in Canada
I raised this topic up before and as i was told the front is different. Hobie (a2b) said that the 5" TM suspesnion kit would be cleaner, higher and cheaper than figuring out how to bolt on the zr2 guts. He also mentioned that a crew cab with 2" body lift and 31" tires is just as capable as a zr2 if not better because of more weight over the rear wheels. One guy here has a full SFA, several have IFS lifts with TM or TS but a majority of us have 2" body lift along with larger shackles, more leaf srings, torsion crank...
I've spent a lot of time under mine. I don't see how a 2" body lift helps clear the frame for 31's. A BL does nothing for frame clearance. It looks like the frame would be more of a problem than the sheetmetal.
I have cranked my t-bars to near max adjustment. My tires (factory tire and wheel) still come VERY close (1/2" to 3/4") to the frame at full steering turn. I can't see any way that 31's would clear the frame on factory wheels. They are 2" wider - that would put the sidewalls 1" closer to the frame.
The only way to do it looks like either going to a wheel with less than our 6" backspacing (like 5" max), or adjusting the steering stops to limit full turn. Doing that would suck as the turning radius already is poor.
Offsetting the wheels out would then create a clearance problem for the sheetmetal. Thus the need for the BL? Is that the answer to running 31s - change wheels to clear the tire/frame points, then have to add the BL to clear the resulting tire/body contact?
Justin: What wheels are you running to clear your 31s to your frame?
So if you go with the body lift, then crank up the TB's to max, and shackle you have one ride... but if you go with something like the TM 5"er, you have a great look...but not knowing anyone with the TM, I'm wondering how the ride is vs. the TB and shackle way???
i have 31" BFG all terrains on stock rims. they only rub a little on the frame at full lock. Brule (henryj) is running 31" yokohama geolanders and he says they don;t rub at all.. BFG just makes a wider tire at the tread
Justin wrote:i have 31" BFG all terrains on stock rims. they only rub a little on the frame at full lock.
Ultimately I want the 31" BFG A/T. What part rubs - the sidewall or the corner of the tread? And where on the frame - in front or behind the axle (or both)? Thanks.
No matter what kinda lift you do is up to how much fender you want to chop or not chop. No matter what, with stock rims, you'll definitely need wheel adapter/spacers. If you don't, you'll rub the rear of the front tires on the frame and you'll hit the inner rear tire tread inside the fenders when flexing. With a 5" tm lift, you only need a little hammer wack in the bottom bolt on the rear of the front fender, the rear is fine. Not sure about 2" bl, but I hear it's a bit more. Check out my specs for what spacers work well for my setup, but even that may vary a bit.
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yes, putting the crewcab body on a zr2 is the most unpractical way of lifting our truck known to man.
the mounting points are not the same...its not even the same frame
if you want to lift your truck, stop worrying about the ride. its a truck
and Mike H.
the body lift doesnt help clear the frame for 31's. thats impossible. what it does is clear the freakin body for 31's and it still doesnt clear the rear of the front fenders or the top if you have less bs than 6" like i do. mine can rubb big time if i load the truck down and hit big bumps
set stock height to 0
