hub replacement

il4x4man · Post by **il4x4man** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 12:36 pm

well about 140,000 miles on my 2000 s-10 ex 4x4 sounds like a freaking airplane taking off.faster you drive it gets worse,sucks. Wheel bearing SHOT!. Pricing hubs today,and Napa has 2 different prices,whats the deal on that.

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/N ... ront+Wheel

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/N ... ront+Wheel

plus i will be checking the prices another place that only sells GM parts

And how many hrs do you think it will take to do both sides?

I have read some of the forum stuff related to the hubs .

So thanks for the help.

il4x4man

Jigg · Post by **Jigg** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 1:07 pm

$84.95

Having done it before, it takes me about 1/2 hour per side. I'd figure like an hour if you've never done it. A ratcheting 18mm (i think, might be 17mm) wrench helps a LOT for getting the bearing unbolted. Also, you'll need a deep 36mm socket to take off the axle nut.

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 2:39 pm

il4x4man wrote:well about 140,000 miles on my 2000 s-10 ex 4x4 sounds like a freaking airplane taking off.faster you drive it gets worse,sucks. Wheel bearing SHOT!. Pricing hubs today,and Napa has 2 different prices,whats the deal on that.

Back when I ran my own shop I was a "stocking dealer" for NAPA parts. The reason for the two different prices is if you look closely on the cheaper one you'll notice it says "value line". They used to call it "silver line". It's a cheaper line of parts usually with a shorter warranty if any at all. If you looked at the parts in person you'd probably discover the higher priced version is made by BCA and the cheaper one perhaps in China. I know that's what I saw last time I looked at parts while there. Not wheel bearings was looking at something else.
Up to you but you might want to get a pair of hubs right away. Mine went bad at 83K.

Thought it was just the left. Replaced it and then could hear the other one. Then replaced it as well.

All quiet now.

BTW, the price Jigg quoted in his post is pretty good. You'll have a hard time finding cheaper or better.

il4x4man · Post by **il4x4man** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 10:48 am

update--I checked on a few more parts place over the weekend.
here is what i found out--Chevy dealership $370,napa 90 day warranty $135,$265 1 yr warranty.Then local place that just sells gm parts-$202,they only had 1.So im gonna go with $202,for gm parts.Have to way 1/2 to 1 day.be worth it,the hubs on the truck have 140,000 so its TIME!

so now its just a short wait till i get it fixed.

thanks for the help

il4x4man

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 12:01 pm

What part of SYNERGY OFFROAD $84.95 is so hard to understand ??

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 12:48 pm

Easy. Shopping local has advantages. The parts are in hand quicker. If there are problems warranty service is face to face.
The Synergy price is good. I would have to think seriously about looking elsewhere, but all the options must be considered.

Buying local keeps the people in your town employed. Builds a good relationship with people who can be valuable assets. I can not fault someone for that.

Nice to have options. I probably buy online way too much, but sometimes price talks.

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 8:09 pm

Freedom of choice!! To each his own.

Jigg · Post by **Jigg** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 8:45 pm

Not a big deal at all... i've done the same thing. I paid literally twice as much for my power window motor at autozone because i needed it asap, when i could've gotten it through my distributor.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Mon Apr 14, 2008 4:07 am

LOCAL HUH ? Checked every dealer and parts store in my local area. Synergy Offroad offers the Power Performance Heavy Duty S-Series Suspension Kit for $485, NO local supplier could beat $830 for even OEM equal parts. I WILL NOT SUPPORT LOCAL DEALERS !! Throwing away my money to support local rips is not going to happen.

il4x4man · Post by **il4x4man** » Tue May 06, 2008 3:59 pm

hey guys slow post-got the gm hubs and tooks about 5 hrs.had too get some air tools and front brake pads. feels so much better and nice and quiet compared to before (sounded like 44 in swampers,lol.)

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Tue May 06, 2008 5:09 pm

What did you need the air tools for? Just checking since my hubs from Synergy Offroad are currently sitting in my truck waiting for a nice weekend to replace along with all my brake rotors and pads.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue May 06, 2008 6:14 pm

04crewvt wrote:What did you need the air tools for?.........................

Not needed unless you want things already easy for you

I actually learned a trick from heepers to remove the assembly. Pull one bolt holding the assembly, take it to your best local fastener place like TSC or Lowes and get a couple bolts a couple inches longer along with nuts. Pull the other two bolts that hold the assembly. Thread your new nuts up onto the new bolt and replace your oem bolts and just start "tightening them". Probably doesn't make sense and I cannot relocate the write up

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sat May 10, 2008 3:16 pm

Well the Driver's side hub was definitely shot. I managed to replace the hub and brakes with only a little bad language. I wanted to go ahead and do the passenger side as well but no way could I get the axle nut off. Just rusted solid and I am afraid when they changed that axle at around 25K they may have torqued it a bit too much. Job was made easier by having the local Advance Auto have a hub puller for rent $90 for deposit and I can keep it for 60 days before it's mine, return it and I can get my money back. Front brakes were completely shot so now I should be much happier stopping. I wanted to do the rear brakes and rotors today as well but I just can't get the rotors off the hub. I have sprayed them down with seafoam deep creep and I might try again tomorrow. If not I will have to take it somewhere and pay the higher hourly fee for bringing in my own parts. If i go that route I will also have them replace the other hub. Lots I could do with a lift and a set of torches but at least today I got the worst part done. didn't have time to test drive today so that will be on tomorrows list as well.

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Sat May 10, 2008 6:09 pm

Use a 1/2" impact and proper size socket on axle nut. If that fails or is unavailable to you use a 3/4" drive socket and either a T handle and cheater or breaker bar. Break the nut loose before jacking or removing the tire if possible. If not put on the steel spare with 2 or 3 nuts let it down on ground set brakes break nut then jack up and proceed. I weigh 300 lbs and have been seen standing/bouncing on a breaker bar and cheater to loosen axle/hub nuts on my vehicles from time to time. They become "locked" on and rusty after a while.
As for the rear rotors take a medium hammer and smack the surface where the wheel bolts up. (Between the studs taking care not to damage them) Many times the impact will cause the rotor to "rebound" from the axle or hub as the case might be and then can be removed. If that fails and you have access to a torch (oxy/acy)( propane hand torches are insufficient for this task) use the heating or cutting head depending on which is available to you. Carefully heat around the hub-center of the rotor in a circle avoiding the studs until you hear a ping or clink. This will be the rotor expanding and releasing it's grip on the hub center. You don't have to heat anything up red-hot or anything and would be better if you didn't. It really doesn't take all that much heating to make the rotor expand loose from the hub as long as you keep the heat near the hub center. Good luck and hope this helps if you weren't already aware.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sun May 11, 2008 2:10 am

Thanks for all the tips, In a perfect world I would have still had my garage with a neighbor with a torch to help me out, as it is my driveway is not a great place to work on tough projects. If I had the impact wrench ( I can check if the parts store rents an electric one) it might help. As it is I don't currently have the long breaker bar and I was using a 3/4 drive socket with which I nearly lifted the truck off the jack stand with. At 360lbs I put a huge amount of torque on the wrench without the nut even budging. I was hitting the rotor with my 5 lb sledge with no movement. Unfortunately living in the snow belt and spending as much as 5 months of the year bathing the bottom of my truck in salt causes extreme corrosion that you would have to see to believe. I would say on average it rusts a vehicle at least twice as fast as in dry climates if not more.
It will be cheaper in the long run to just have a shop that has access to the right tools help me out than to buy a set of tools I might not need again for another 50K it also will save my aching back and legs I can barely walk today after trying so much brute force wrenching yesterday.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun May 11, 2008 5:13 am

The impact works because of the jarring action. Use a 1/4" drift punch to hit each side of the nut. This will serve to crush the oxidation and swell the nut a little. Center it on each side and whack it with your BFH. That done after letting it soak in your favorite "Panther Pee" (Penetrating oil) over night. A bottle jack can be used to back up the opposing side of the nut kind of like your anvil.
Use heat as your last resort. It is possible to do some damage to the nut with a torch.
A 5/8" brass punch works well for impacting the rear brake hat. That too should be soaked 24 hours prior to removal for a stubborn removal.

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Sun May 11, 2008 9:00 am

04crewvt wrote: Unfortunately living in the snow belt and spending as much as 5 months of the year bathing the bottom of my truck in salt causes extreme corrosion that you would have to see to believe. I would say on average it rusts a vehicle at least twice as fast as in dry climates if not more.
It will be cheaper in the long run to just have a shop that has access to the right tools help me out than to buy a set of tools I might not need again for another 50K it also will save my aching back and legs I can barely walk today after trying so much brute force wrenching yesterday.

Ahh I totally understand having come from living 50+yrs in the "snow belt" myself. (NE Nebraska) Trust me they don't waste any time throwin on the salt in Omaha or any other sizeable town up there as well as the state crews on the highways either. So, yeah, I believe it.
As to the stoved up after working on it I can identify with that as well. I aint no spring chicken anymore either. I have found though that I have had better luck with the T handle and cheater pipe method with the vehicle on the ground and the wheel on as I can bounce much more force on that nut than I can lift or pull. JMO and what works for me.

One more thing, you're not alone, I too have to do my work in the "fresh air and sunshine garage" or as I some times call it "curbservice repair".

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sun May 11, 2008 9:27 am

Yea I used the shock treatment of a 5lb sledge on the wrench to try to bust it loose. I got spoiled by my last place with the 24x32 foot main bay. I could disassemble and leave stuff out if it too a couple of days to work out the problems. Big thing I had to fight with is I needed this back together so I could get to work tomorrow, it's my only running set of wheels right now. Took the test drive today to return the puller I rented, brakes are much better I can't wait till the rears are good as well. Hub is quieter but the noise is still there so I need to get the other hub in and hopefully with a tire rotation I will be good to go otherwise it might be the driver's side CV joint going as well and that will need to be replaced . I will have the thing worked on and will see what happens. If I can't get it in this week I can at least drive it this way. Lots of work for 53K but at least it should be good for another 50K at least.

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Sun May 11, 2008 9:50 am

Yeah mine didn't make it much further than that 53k figure you mentioned either and the same experience. Replaced the side that seemed noisey only to find noise coming from the other side afterward. Replaced other hub and all was quiet. Kinda doubt your CV joint would make much noise except on turns unless it was really really bad. I need to replace my pass side one right now as it's been making popping/clanking noises on turns in 4x4 for a while now. Won't be expensive though as it is a lifetime axle from Autozone. Just inconvenient and requiring more crawling around under the truck again.
I can totally understand that gotta have it to drive for work tomorrow thing too. Kinda like when the weather is in the tank and I have to use the truck tomorrow for 4x4 and something is broke. I've spent many a night till midnight out in the cold with a trouble light finishing repairs to make operable for the next day.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Tue May 13, 2008 4:38 pm

Well I got it into the shop today. It took them 3 hours to replace the passenger side hub and get the rear brakes installed. Glad I didn't keep trying I never would have gotten it in the driveway. While they were in there I had them check out everything else and they found a bad idler arm and the rear axle seals were leaking so they serviced those as well. Steep labor charge for bringing in my own parts $100.00/Hr but I still saved money with the parts. All told with the parts I bought plus what they put in my economic stimulus check is gone along with a little more out of pocket but at least I am not driving a jet engine whine and squeaking brakes down the road.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Fri May 23, 2008 2:20 am

Update- New hubs and axle seals pads and rotors make for a nice quiet ride. Unfortunately after just a week on the new pads the passenger side rear caliper decides to s_it the bed and seizes up with the new brakes partially on.
I limped it to the shop and one complete caliper, brake fluid flush and entire new set of pads later (400 miles or less on the last new ones but the heat cracked the pads) I should be good to go. This relatively inexpensive repair job has now set me back over a grand.

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