HOW To: TB Blade removal

raven2510 · Post by **raven2510** » Sat Apr 19, 2008 11:45 am

Ok so i had the day off so i decided to try the Throttle Body Blade removal. First and foremost this does not add any HP!!! All it does is is give you much better acceleration. Ok well lets start this with a list of tools you'll be needing...

T15 Torx Bit
Brake Parts cleaner
Dremel or other cutting tool
Adjustable Wrench
Vice or Clamp
Sandpaper or File
LocTite thread locker

Now the first step is to remove the air intake. Its held on by a clamp by the throttle body. After its removed it should look like this.

Now that we have it like this its time to remove those Torx screws. There are 2 of them. You can see them it the middle. Now once you have them removed. Grab the throttle cable bracket and pull it to WOT (Wide Open Throttle) like so.
It should look like this. (After Pic)

Then Pull out the Throttle blade and it should look like this when its out. It will be very dirty and most likely have lots of carbon buildup.

Now its time to cut. You need to cut along the red line pictured above. Then after you get done cutting file or sand down the burrs left from cutting. This is what you will be left with...its trash now.

And now is the time to clean the blade with brake cleaner. I just sprayed it on and wiped it off with a clean rag. Here is what you should have when you done.

Now its time to put everything back. The throttle blade will slide in the way it came out. Make sure you put it back the way it came out. Apply some LocTite to the Torx screws and put them back in. Don't tighten them has tight as you can...if you do it can stick. It should look like this when your done.

Then just reinstall your Air intake and now enjoy your much improved acceleration. When i did mine it made a HUGE difference. Acceleration is much smother and it got rid of the lag when i hit the gas. i recommend it to every S10 owner.
Total time 30min.
TAD

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Apr 19, 2008 12:59 pm

Thanks!

Your submission made our mod pages: Crewcab Modification Information - Throttle Blade Mod

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sat Apr 19, 2008 1:02 pm

Great Write up, and thanks for the very clear pictures. This post should be added to the MOD page. PLEASE

Wow ! I think you were hearing me think Brule ! Too Cool!!

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Sat Apr 19, 2008 2:41 pm

Ummm, Just reading thru this and looking at the pics. Nice write-up but don't you need to plug the two "extra" holes in the blade after removal of the diffuser? Or am I viewing the pics wrong and those actually aren't holes.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Apr 19, 2008 3:00 pm

Nice write up! He only removed the sides of the defuser. The base plate is still attached.

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Sat Apr 19, 2008 3:25 pm

f9k9 wrote:Nice write up! He only removed the sides of the defuser. The base plate is still attached.

So is the pic on the shop towel a visual illusion? Looks like 5 holes showing unless three are "blind".

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Apr 19, 2008 4:15 pm

Two are blind. Those attach the diffuser.

raven2510 · Post by **raven2510** » Sat Apr 19, 2008 4:27 pm

yes the to middle holes are for the torx screws. the hole between the top 2 is a breather hole. the other 2 holes are actually rivets. they are not removed.

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Sat Apr 19, 2008 4:53 pm

Got it now. Thanks

HCO4x4 · Post by **HCO4x4** » Sat Apr 19, 2008 7:04 pm

does this effect gas milage at all?

raven2510 · Post by **raven2510** » Sat Apr 19, 2008 7:27 pm

idk yet. ill have to check on my next tank of gas. but most likely it'll go down bc ill be floorin it bc i now have good acceleration

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 2:51 am

Nice write up thanks,
Just want to caution you on using text messaging shorthand in your posts. We have a lot of members on here that still remember having rotary phones and may not want to have to go looking for a definition on the abbreviations getting used, especially some of the more creative ones.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 3:31 am

04crewvt wrote:.....................We have a lot of members on here that still remember having rotary phones ..................

Text messaging ????????

Torskdoc · Post by **Torskdoc** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 3:49 am

Hell, Some of us can still read smoke signals!!!

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 4:30 am

Not pointing fingers at anyone in particular. I was on a party line with 3 other families till I was in Jr. High myself.

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 7:21 am

Torskdoc wrote:Hell, Some of us can still read smoke signals!

Yeah, especially some of the long-haired members who were active in the 60s and 70s!

So, did you guys use a torx screw drive that was magnetic?
I'd sure hate to drop one of those screws down the intake.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 7:26 am

Rockrz wrote:I'd sure hate to drop one of those screws down the intake.

Don't open the throttle until you have them both out of there and the have no where to go.

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 7:51 am

and when going back I guess you slide the plate down in and position it and hold it in place with a screw driver or something till you get the torx screws tightened up, right?

It was putting it back in that had me concerned.

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 7:54 am

f9k9 wrote: He only removed the sides of the defuser. The base plate is still attached

If you removed the base plate, would you have to seal those holes?

Doesn't seem like having a couple of small holes would hurt much, but that might be wrong.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 9:15 am

When removing the screws, a little tapping on the driver from a small hammer may assist in breaking them loose. Don't strip them, or twist off a driver tip. The tapping will help to jar them loose. Apply torque to remove them and tap the top of the driver. This will break them loose.

Rockrz wrote:and when going back I guess you slide the plate down in and position it and hold it in place with a screw driver or something till you get the torx screws tightened up, right?

It was putting it back in that had me concerned.

Rotate into position and close the throttle. Crack it open a little if you need to move it and align the holes.

Rockrz wrote:If you removed the base plate, would you have to seal those holes?

Doesn't seem like having a couple of small holes would hurt much, but that might be wrong.

It would hurt. Idle speed is controlled by the amount of air bypassing the throttle blade. The single hole in that diffuser is a specific size. Removal of the diffuser completely will leave a hole larger for the bleed air, not to mention the rivet holes to be filled.
Too large a hole and the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve can not compensate , even fully closed.
The CFM throttle blade is another option. That is what I am using. There is a good thread on that topic.

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 11:39 am

Looks like the guy who wrote the review above left those two holes open, according to the picture.

(I know two holes are for the screws, but there are two other holes that are open in his picture.)

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 11:54 am

Looks like the guy who made that last post did not read the thread.

Rockrz wrote:Looks like the guy who wrote the review above left those two holes open, according to the picture.

(I know two holes are for the screws, but there are two other holes that are open in his picture.)

raven2510 wrote:yes the to middle holes are for the torx screws. the hole between the top 2 is a breather hole. the other 2 holes are actually rivets. they are not removed.

okie s10 · Post by **okie s10** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 12:14 pm

I did drill out the rivets on my TB plate and removed the entire diffuser. Yes it left 2 holes in the plate but I just put some rivets back in the holes and plugged them up. All Ok so far.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 12:40 pm

okie s10 wrote:... I just put some rivets back in the holes and plugged them up. All Ok so far.

Keep an eye on those rivets you installed.
If they are "Pop" rivets the little ball that plugs the center can loosen. Some will fall out. Not a big piece, but not good going through an engine.
If it carbons up good , that will keep them in place.
Old style solid rivets would be a good choice , but they are hard to find.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 12:46 pm

If you are looking for old style solid rivets a tack shop is a good place to look, also around here good feed and grain stores (Agway) often have them in stock.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 12:47 pm

I had not thought of those places. Thanks

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 3:07 pm

HenryJ wrote:Looks like the guy who made that last post did not read the thread.

No, I read the thread, and I don't see where he said anything about plugging those holes.
The finished picture he provides shows these holes open, which is what I was asking about.

Here's the holes I'm referring to...
(the ones the blue arrows are pointing to)

I understand now that I should not mess with the original rivits and I should just cut the diffuser way but leave the plate intact as is.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 3:20 pm

Boy! You are really not "getting it". Those are NOT holes. That is the back side of the factory retention "rivets".
I thought that was clearly stated on several posts above.

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 3:44 pm

OK, but they do look just like holes in the picture.

I don't see anywhere where anyone said these appear to be holes in the picture, but they are the back sides of rivets and they just look like they are holes, but they are not actually holes...even though they appear to be holes.

It was posted that you should not mess with the original diffuser plate rivets, but nobody addressed why there appeared to be holes in the picture. That was not made clear.

I understand that I should not mess with the original rivits and I should just cut the diffuser way but leave the plate intact as is.

I know exactly what to do now.
Thanx.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 3:54 pm

Ok. I guess if you have never seen it it can be hard to understand.
Glad you have it clear now

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 3:56 pm

Nope, I've never looked down into the hole to see what things look like down in there.

I will be soon, though...

raven2510 · Post by **raven2510** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:16 pm

well as long as you understand that all. i dont want anybody to screw up there engine buy doing this. but its pretty hard to...this mod is super easy

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 5:27 am

I just finished with this mod on my '02 and the TB was only similar to the one in the post. My blade has the vent hole in the opposite half of the blade, not the half with the defuser attached. There is also an additional pea sized knob looking thing attached right where the vent hole is on the posted blade. No matter, I cut the little arched piece off, buffed up the remaining plate edge, put it back in and it does throttle up a lot smoother and quicker. Oh, I didn't do anything with the little knob deal and my blade was shiny clean when I pulled the cap. I've been putting 3-4 ounces of Marvel oil in every gas fillup.

WileyHunter · Post by **WileyHunter** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 6:28 pm

Just finished the mod on my '03... Boy what a difference! Only took about 20 minutes (about 15 of that was figuring out how the darn thing comes out) and before you pick on me too badly, remember I am electronically gifted, not mechanically. Just so no-one else has to suffer though (IT SLIDES OUT!!!)

raven2510 · Post by **raven2510** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 8:13 pm

see its easy and it works

WileyHunter · Post by **WileyHunter** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 7:28 am

Wifey went for a ride to the store with me last night, first time since mod was done. I tapped the throttle a little and sent her back in her seat

When we had test driven this truck prior to buying it, that was her ONLY complaint. Not enough get up and go from stand still. She asked 'what did you do to the truck?' If she's happy, then you know I'm happy.

WH

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:18 pm

After a little paying closer attention I think mine is shifting gears a little quicker and I know I could never hit the red line on my tach WOT before. Can this be real, or am I just imagining this improvement ? I mean I can red line it now but , not before.

raven2510 · Post by **raven2510** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 1:55 pm

yea it breaths better to better power band. and it shifts the same but it seems different bc of the improved acceleration.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 2:48 pm

The shifting is different. This is because of the difference in throttle position.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Fri Apr 25, 2008 2:32 am

I think I understand the throttle position to the shifting difference, but is this increase in throttle capable of improving RPM range. I'm noticing an increase of 500 plus RPMs. I will try to be more precise in RPM shift points, but the difference I've first noticed seemed radical, so I backed of right away. I have blown a motor by over throttling it.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Apr 25, 2008 4:13 am

Horsehammerr wrote:...I have blown a motor by over throttling it.

I would not push it, but we have a rev limiter that prevents over speeding.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Fri Apr 25, 2008 7:26 am

Sounds like another, UNTRIED UNTRUE GM gimmick. I know I won't push beyond hitting redline.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Apr 25, 2008 2:27 pm

Horsehammerr wrote:Sounds like another, UNTRIED UNTRUE GM gimmick. I know I won't push beyond hitting redline.

You can believe it is there. I have hit it a few times. We also have a top speed limiter. I have touched that as well.
That is why I use the HPPIII to adjust the shift points as well as move the speed limiter up a little.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sat Apr 26, 2008 3:14 am

I really don't mind if my shifts are at high or low RPMs. The thing that I don't like the most is this mushy, slippy, feeling shift that seems to be the design of this tranny. All I really want is a positive firm shift, that feels like it did shift and is moving on to the next gear. Thats the way my shift kit in my old '76 w/ 350 v8- 350 turbo trans felt, and I miss it.THis thing just never seems to get around to it when it does actually shift. I'm not a stop light Drag racer just want to go, when I want to go.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Apr 26, 2008 5:54 am

Horsehammerr wrote:...The thing that I don't like the most is this mushy, slippy, feeling shift that seems to be the design of this tranny. All I really want is a positive firm shift, that feels like it did shift and is moving on to the next gear.

HPPIII shift firmness is the quick easy way. Add to that the Corvette servo, billet fourth servo, and longer pin. That makes me happy with the way mine shifts.
If it is time to rebuild your transmission, add a shift kit.

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Sun Apr 27, 2008 4:02 pm

Man, I just got back from test driving mine after throttle body blade removal, and the low end is WAY more responsive!

I should have done this years ago, cause it's accelerates very nice now.

Thanks for the write-up!

raven2510 · Post by **raven2510** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 3:43 pm

im glad i could help

Torskdoc · Post by **Torskdoc** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 4:05 pm

Horsehammerr wrote:I really don't mind if my shifts are at high or low RPMs. The thing that I don't like the most is this mushy, slippy, feeling shift that seems to be the design of this tranny. All I really want is a positive firm shift, that feels like it did shift and is moving on to the next gear. Thats the way my shift kit in my old '76 w/ 350 v8- 350 turbo trans felt, and I miss it.THis thing just never seems to get around to it when it does actually shift. I'm not a stop light Drag racer just want to go, when I want to go.

To add what HenryJ said re: HPIII, servo's and pin. I've got them in mine and with the stock PCM and the HPIII, you still have the Timing pull off during the shift. It stills feels a bit mushy compared to a P.G. or a THM 350/THM400. I DID get a Wait4Me PCM and had Jesse take out 75% of the timing pull off(I 'm having a brain fart here with the right term). Now it shifts like a P.G / THM350/THM400. The shifts are crisp, firm, and you know it when it happens. The Tach drops NOW!!!

You could go either way, with electronic control.. HPIII or a PCM. But definately get the servo's and the pin.

EDIT: TORQUE MANAGEMENT is term I'm looking for. Not 15 seconds after I hit submit!

Larry

will1551 · Post by **will1551** » Mon Apr 28, 2008 4:20 pm

man this is my favorite mod yet! the only thing i did differently was to use tin snips to cut off the exess. i think this only took me about fifteen minutes.

PGH04ZR5 · Post by **PGH04ZR5** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 9:14 am

So I decided to try this mod yesterday. At the same time I installed Plugs, Wires, and K&N Intake to my recently purchased ZR5. I ran out of day light to run any test last night so did it this morning. My truck now idles at 1500 Rpm while in gear and when in Park will Idle at 2500Rpm. Now I have never heard of this be linked to plugs, wires or a Air intake, So I checked the shaved trottle body, I loosened the torx and double checked the position of the blade and tighten them back down to enure no binding or sticking and the TB seemed to be working fine, but in Park the truck will go to 2500R's at idle and when in gear will idle at 1500R's.

Do you guys have any suggestions to what I can double check? I am going to go back and look at the linkage again to ensure nothing got pushed or pulled yesterday when the throttle Body was off, b/c I also tried to install a 1in spacer but did not have the clearance w/ the K&N and had to remove it. (and Yes I know they dont do anything....)

HELP!!!!!

Thanks

04 ZR5 in Pittsburgh

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 11:01 am

Sounds like Throttle Positioning is out of whack. I'm sure someone that knows the drill will respond. I think I can hear HJ's wheels spinning now, come on Brule HELP !!

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 1:05 pm

Did you drill out the rivets holding the diffuser on? That would allow more airflow and a higher idle. If so, they could be filled in with JB Weld.

PGH04ZR5 · Post by **PGH04ZR5** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 1:42 pm

Thanks for the replies guys. I got to thinking about the Throttle Position Sensor and went back to double check it. Here the Primary Intake tube on the K&N was blocking my view and I missed the 2nd plug in. This being my 1st time taking apart my intake I over looked there being two plug ins, plugged in the 2nd and magic. everything returned to normal.

No I just shaved the difuser, didnt take it entirely off.

Does anyone know where to get a replacment Throttle Body Blade if you ever wanted to replace it with a stock one in the happening of wanting to sell the truck?

I called the dealership and they only sell the entire TB for $440 bucks.

Thanks Again,

ZR5 in Pittsburgh

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 1:44 pm

green02crew wrote:Did you drill out the rivets holding the diffuser on? That would allow more airflow and a higher idle. If so, they could be filled in with JB Weld.

Not sure I would count on the JB Weld staying there long term.

This is the same line of thinking I was following though.
A picture of the modified blade would answer many questions.

The IAC valve controls the idle speed. It relies on the the only hole for air to bypass the throttle blade being the tiny hole that is drilled in the flat part of the diffuser. If the diffuser has been completely removed you now have three holes and all of them are way too big to be functional.

If this is not the case and you removed the throttle body to do this mod, could the IAC valve be unplugged?

EDIT: You were replying at the same time I was. Guess that was it after all. Glad you figured it out.

A used MAFS is the only choice for an unmodified blade.

Post by **Walt** » Tue Jul 01, 2008 6:00 pm

Guess I'll add my testimony to the list. I did the mod earlier today and the difference is incredible. Pretty quick and easy mod, although I did have a bit of trouble getting the blade out.

Haven't been able to get to a spot to try to break the tires loose. (Truck's never been able to do that from a dead stop on asphalt since I got it.)

24digger · Post by **24digger** » Tue Jul 01, 2008 6:45 pm

X2, I've done this as well this spring

sonomadude4x4 · Post by **sonomadude4x4** » Thu Jul 03, 2008 6:34 am

does it change the shift points? and does it affect gas milage?

ncstatered21 · Post by **ncstatered21** » Tue Sep 30, 2008 4:57 pm

i'm new to this forum and found this mod quite enticing. i have a black 2004 cc with airraid intake. i'm not as knowedlage as most of you in the car stuff but i know more than an average joe. the only mod i currently have is the air intake which i found easy to install. would you recommend me doing this modification? is there a lot that can go wrong when doing this mod? my friend down the street knows more than i do about trucks and i was gonna ask for his opinion but i thought i'd ask for yalls too. thanks.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed Oct 01, 2008 8:51 am

ncstatered21 wrote:i'm new to this forum and found this mod quite enticing. i have a black 2004 cc with airraid intake.
would you recommend me doing this modification? is there a lot that can go wrong when doing this mod?

Welcome to the forum ncstatered21.

Yes this is a great mod and I highly recommend it to anyone who wants more throttle response and a slight hp increase.

Just take you time and follow the directions above and you will be fine.

You only need to grind down the hemispherical portion of the restrictor on the backside of the throttle blade.

Steve

ncstatered21 · Post by **ncstatered21** » Sat Oct 04, 2008 2:28 pm

thanks for the info. i did it before i read that and had no trouble. for some reason the forum hasn't been workin for me recently till i just tried now. but i didn't get to grind all of it down bc i had limited tools and was trying to avoid hitting the rivet on mine. i still noticed the greater throttle response which was what i was looking for. thanks very much.

alntex · Post by **alntex** » Sun Dec 14, 2008 2:48 pm

Newbie here, but have been reading on the site for while. Really good info about diffuser mods. About 6 mos ago I modified the blade on my 02 ZR5, but only removed about half of the diffuser by grinding. I did the partial removal because I think some of the posts indicated that total removal resulted in an increase in throttle sensitivity requiring a lighter touch on the accelerator, and I was afraid my older body might have trouble adapting. Anyway, the results were an improvement in kickdown with fairly light pedal pressure and over the last 5000 miles, my fuel mileage increased by about 2mpg (17 to 19 premod: 19 to 21 after). I have no other mods to the air intake system. I did not experience any change in noise (no whistles).

2002 ZR5 w/lift kit

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Dec 14, 2008 3:04 pm

Welcome aboard! This is a mod that I need to just do and make the time. I had planned on long campfire talks with HenryJ when we were in Moab this past October. This was a mod that I wanted to cover with him. We were rushed and the talks never took place. This is a very good mod from what I have gleaned from here and elsewhere.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Dec 14, 2008 3:28 pm

A half cut makes sense. That would ease the transition a little higher up and it might not be so touchy in low range.
Seems like a good compromise. You can always cut more if you think you need it.

alntex · Post by **alntex** » Sun Dec 14, 2008 3:55 pm

I think I'll leave it for now. Another improvement I noticed was that it seemed to hold speed better on hills without dropping OD. Maybe a little broader torque curve? I don't use WOT very much--just a conservative old f--t. BTW is there a topic here about replacing cam position sensor. I just replaced my cap/rotor/sensor and was only able to remove the old sensor by bumping the starter around to the proper position. Others may benefit if there is a quicker way.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Dec 14, 2008 4:22 pm

alntex wrote:... it seemed to hold speed better on hills without dropping OD. Maybe a little broader torque curve?

I think it relates more to the throttle position. You are not as far in as would be otherwise. The lower throttle position does not activate the transmissions downshift as soon.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Mon Jul 05, 2010 2:04 pm

Just did this today. Very simple. I had almost zero cabron build up on my TB. I run MMO in my gas, not sure if that helped? I was expecting a very touchy pedal based on what was said here. Didnt get that, but when you hit the gas it goes in a split second rather then waiting 2 or 3 for it to wind up. I like! Best mods are the free ones!

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Jul 05, 2010 2:10 pm

Careful in low range the first time. It is an acquired touch.

sonomadude4x4 · Post by **sonomadude4x4** » Sun Sep 12, 2010 2:32 pm

did this mod today... made a HUGE difference in the low end... recomend it to every one who has a crew

S-10CREWCAB.NET

HOW To: TB Blade removal

HOW To: TB Blade removal

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