Part Nbr - AC Compressor
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Part Nbr - AC Compressor
Would anyone happen to know what the AC Delco part number is for the AC Compressor?
And, wouldn't it be the same compressor from '96 thru '2004?
(my truck is actually a '96)
My compressor just took a dump on me and I'm going to buy a brand new one this time, instead of a reman one so I need the factory part number so I can search online for the best deal.
And, wouldn't it be the same compressor from '96 thru '2004?
(my truck is actually a '96)
My compressor just took a dump on me and I'm going to buy a brand new one this time, instead of a reman one so I need the factory part number so I can search online for the best deal.
- roadrunner
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Additional info is needed. You can search AC-Delco at
www.oehq.com/acdelco_parts.cfm?...
for your particular application. This will give you the AC-Delco number. Perhaps another member will be able to tell you the GM number or where you can find it.
www.oehq.com/acdelco_parts.cfm?...
for your particular application. This will give you the AC-Delco number. Perhaps another member will be able to tell you the GM number or where you can find it.
2001 CC LS, pewter, stock, 4.3,Wait4meperformance, CFM throttle blade, Helix throttle body spacer, 4spd auto, 3button electric 4x4 shift, heavy duty factory suspension, Bilsteins, 1" rear wheel spacers, skid plates.
- HenryJ
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Use Rockauto.com. It will list the AC Delco and GM part numbers.
Need to know X or W engine.
Need to know X or W engine.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
Thanks for the link, but WOW!roadrunner wrote:Additional info is needed. You can search AC-Delco at www.oehq.com/acdelco_parts.cfm?...
A brand new AC Delco compressor is $582.03.
I can it a new one here locally for about $375 to $400.
I was thinking that shopping online might be cheaper, but I guess that's not always the case.
It's an X engine, and the cost here is $445.79 (little better)HenryJ wrote:Use Rockauto.com. It will list the AC Delco and GM part numbers. Need to know X or W engine.
and is AC-DELCO Part # 1521624
Thanxs guys. I just wanted to shop online and see if it was any cheaper than buying locally.
- HenryJ
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You left out the GM part number from Rockauto: 19151514
Use that figure at your local GM parts supplier , or AC Delco dealer and see just how close they can come. I bet you can get it locally for $420GM parts direct wrote:GM PART # 19151514
CATEGORY: A/C Compressor
PACK QTY: 1
CORE CHARGE: $0.00
GM LIST: $753.86
OUR PRICE: $392.02
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- HenryJ
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AC Delco numbers are not always the same as the GM number. Both were listed in that site.
The AC Delco number did not return a result on the GM website.
The AC Delco number did not return a result on the GM website.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- roadrunner
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Not surprising to me. Oem tends to run high. Guess that explains why reman and aftermarket do so well.Rockrz wrote:Thanks for the link, but WOW!roadrunner wrote:Additional info is needed. You can search AC-Delco at www.oehq.com/acdelco_parts.cfm?...
A brand new AC Delco compressor is $582.03.
I can it a new one here locally for about $375 to $400.
It's an X engine, and the cost here is $445.79 (little better)HenryJ wrote:Use Rockauto.com. It will list the AC Delco and GM part numbers. Need to know X or W engine.
2001 CC LS, pewter, stock, 4.3,Wait4meperformance, CFM throttle blade, Helix throttle body spacer, 4spd auto, 3button electric 4x4 shift, heavy duty factory suspension, Bilsteins, 1" rear wheel spacers, skid plates.
- williamcstonejr
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But, in quite a few cases the reman units don't last as long and mine had always made a bunch of noise which is abnormal.
From now on, I'll always treat AC compressors like electronic equipment...I'll only by brand new from now on.
I'm filling this under the "you get what you pay for" files.
From now on, I'll always treat AC compressors like electronic equipment...I'll only by brand new from now on.
I'm filling this under the "you get what you pay for" files.
[size=75]I'm drivin a...2003 Chevy S10 Ex Cab LS 2WD, Auto, 4.3L, Vin Code X[/size]
- border man
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- roadrunner
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Not telling you to use reman but in my experience the main reason any new or reman compressor fails is due to system contamination. It is highly advisable to have the ac sustem flushed and a new receiver-dryer installed to insure proper performance and reliability. I would pay particular attention to this since you stated yours was noisey. Usually an indication of metal particle contamination from the old compressor. Additionally the expansion tube or valve (however equipped) may need to be replaced as well.Rockrz wrote:But, in quite a few cases the reman units don't last as long and mine had always made a bunch of noise which is abnormal.
2001 CC LS, pewter, stock, 4.3,Wait4meperformance, CFM throttle blade, Helix throttle body spacer, 4spd auto, 3button electric 4x4 shift, heavy duty factory suspension, Bilsteins, 1" rear wheel spacers, skid plates.
I've spent over 15 years making my living in the auto rapair industry, so I'm well versed on the need to flush out AC systems before installing new compressors.
Regardless of whether a compressor "blew", or not, I always flush the system, install a new orfice tube, and dryer.
This is common knowledge for anyone who has spent any time working on AC systems
Regardless of whether a compressor "blew", or not, I always flush the system, install a new orfice tube, and dryer.
This is common knowledge for anyone who has spent any time working on AC systems
[size=75]I'm drivin a...2003 Chevy S10 Ex Cab LS 2WD, Auto, 4.3L, Vin Code X[/size]
- roadrunner
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Good! Glad to hear it! Just threw that post in in case you weren't as well aquainted with ac work as it appears you obviously are.
2001 CC LS, pewter, stock, 4.3,Wait4meperformance, CFM throttle blade, Helix throttle body spacer, 4spd auto, 3button electric 4x4 shift, heavy duty factory suspension, Bilsteins, 1" rear wheel spacers, skid plates.
Well, I don't know everything about automotive repair but I have been in this long enough to know how to research things I don't already know about and find the answers. (this board is a great help to get answers and ideas...)
The reason I know how important a good flush is and new orfice, and drier is, because back when I was a young man who wanted to save money with which to chase girls (whole nother storie(s)) I did a cheap job once and it bit me in the butt and ended up costing me more money than it would have if I'd done the job right the first time!
That was back when I first started doing merchanic work in my late teens, and ever since then I learnt that it's best to do the top quality job each time so the repair will last as long as possible.
The reason I know how important a good flush is and new orfice, and drier is, because back when I was a young man who wanted to save money with which to chase girls (whole nother storie(s)) I did a cheap job once and it bit me in the butt and ended up costing me more money than it would have if I'd done the job right the first time!
That was back when I first started doing merchanic work in my late teens, and ever since then I learnt that it's best to do the top quality job each time so the repair will last as long as possible.
- roadrunner
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I think everyone has a back in their "teens" story that they can relate to. Those are the "learning roots" of a later mechanic.Rockrz wrote: That was back when I first started doing merchanic work in my late teens, and ever since then I learnt that it's best to do the top quality job each time so the repair will last as long as possible.
When I used to work on cars for a living in my own shop people would ask what my repair ethic was. I simply told them. I'll treat it like I owned it myself. I want it fixed right the first time as economicly as possible without cutting corners and so it won't break down again the next day or week or month. Warranty was simple. (1) Don't bring me somebody else's bill and expect me to pay it. (2) I'll take it apart and if it's my fault it's free. If it's yours you pay. Any doubts and we'll reach a mutually agreeable solution somewhere in the middle.
Had a guy ask me, one day after telling him that, how do I know I can trust you? I simply replied. If you don't already then you shouldn't even be here. He stayed. I did the needed repairs. He was happy and a repeat customer after that.
2001 CC LS, pewter, stock, 4.3,Wait4meperformance, CFM throttle blade, Helix throttle body spacer, 4spd auto, 3button electric 4x4 shift, heavy duty factory suspension, Bilsteins, 1" rear wheel spacers, skid plates.
- roadrunner
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Unfortunately I must agree with you. Not why I got out of the business but also a very valid reason to be extra cautious. Sad it has to be that way though.Rockrz wrote:I can tell you this, if I ran a repair shop today....I'd have every customer sign an agreement that outlines the business relationship.
It would sure cut down on lawsuits, since people these days will sue you at the drop of a hat...and some of them you don't even have to drop the hat.
2001 CC LS, pewter, stock, 4.3,Wait4meperformance, CFM throttle blade, Helix throttle body spacer, 4spd auto, 3button electric 4x4 shift, heavy duty factory suspension, Bilsteins, 1" rear wheel spacers, skid plates.