Hypertech PIII installation.

[Torskdoc]

Ordered one from Summit on Thursday eve. Came by Fed-Ex (normal shipping) Saturday before noon. HOT DAMN talk about fast. Anyway I got down to changing a some things around. Removed the Jet Transmission electronic shift kit (going to go in son's Silverado). Verified tire size (29.15") and rear end ratio (3.42).

Engine has just had a "tuneup" in the last month. Accel Supercoil, Summit CAP&Rotor, Taylor 8.5mm Wires, NGK V-groove Plugs, timing checked by scanner @ shop. Seafoam down intake, and tank. New AC-Delco Air-filter(box swissed), Fuel Filter, PCV Valve, idler pulley for belt. Alternator cable mod(Larger + & - cables), new frame to body grounds and engine to frame and engine to body grounds. Alternator puts out 14.65V 80a @ 700rpm. 105A @ 1000rpm. Loaded with Carbon pile to 150A and Voltage goes to 13.5V@ 1000rpm.



Total time for programming in the car was about 25 minutes. I didn't go crazy with the adjustments. Just plug it in to the Diagnostic port, and follow instructions. READ THE MANUAL 1st (mine came with a CD) and write down what changes you want in the manual as you go before you program the truck. Then make the changes. If/when you make additional changes you have a database baseline to work from.
Specs as inputted to programmer.

Hypertech Reg Fuel tune.
Rev Limiter: +100 (up to 5300)
Top spd: 118
Shift points: 1-2 shift +100; 2-3 shift +100; 3-4 shift +100;
Shift Firmness: +75%
Tire size: 29.00" (stock 28.9(235/75R15) and current(255/70R15)tire is 29.15)
Gear Ratio 3.42


I took it out today for about an hour and ran it thru some seat of the pants stuff on the beltway and some back roads.

Seat of pants noted that initial idle was smoother and throttle response was crisper without off idle bogging that I would experience occasionally(dead cold 1st thing 1-2 upshift in the morning, I figure this bogging is probably from removing the restrictor from the throttle plate and the retardation of timing during shift as it's only done it since removal). Part throttle Upshifts were firm, crisp and without bogging from the retardation of the timing during shift. It also feels as if it's NOT straining either at any throttle setting.

I did notice that mid-range power/acceleration was much improved, and not having to use as much throttle to maintain any given speed. Highway running @ 60-65 in 4th was without the hunting on hills or grades normally found in a vehicle with tall gears and the engine being out of the peak power band. Press 1/2 way down and it gets down the road with a lot more authority and without downshifting. But when it does downshift, it does NOW!!!! No waiting on the transmission to make the decision by political committee!

WOT runs to 70-80 were FUN! It gets to 75 rather quick now in 1st and 2nd. It now gets out of 1st @ 37-38 @5300rpm vs. 34-35@5100-5200. It had just got out of 2nd @ 73 when I backed off. WOT upshift were not as firm as the part throttle upshifts but WERE firmer. At this point I haven't installed the 2nd and 4th servo's as the weather isn't warm enough to lay on the ground. I do expect that the shifts will improve even more once they are installed.

MPG average up to this point mixed is 13-14 and straight interstate is btwn 17-18. I filled up today before running and will take readings over the next three weeks(fill up about twice a week with 190-200miles btwn fillups).

So far It's working as advertised, and I'll reserve full judgement after a month or so. Considering it's adjustable, it's a pretty good deal, especially for the tire, dual fuel octane settings, and trans adjustments. I'm gonna put my scanner on it and run for a few days and see what the Short term and Long term Fuel curves are reading. Also timing and O2 sensor reading. Servo's will go in in about a month.

The speedo is about .25mph off but can't get closer with the 1/4" adjustments and the tire size being what it is. It's close enough for gov't work.

Overall I'm pleased although not too happy with the $$$. But it's still cheaper than a Diablo, or a Jet Tuner and does basically the same things.

Larry

[killian96ss]

When you get around to installing those servos, I would recommend returning the line pressure back to stock.

Increasing line pressure is not good for the transmission because it creates extra heat and is hard on parts.

Steve

[HenryJ]

Actually it will be just fine. The extra holding power is needed. The increase is no more than what is enabled during tow mode. The instruction I received, actually recommended it.

The HPP3 will increase line pressure, and that makes the shift faster and more agressive. This will help trans life, because there is less slippage in the band and clutches.

Changing the servo to a aftermarket unit (or a Corvette part) will make the 1-2 shift more firm. This will help the 1-2 band last a little longer, and firm the 1-2 shift. It will not change anything else in the transmission.

The servos just reduce the amount of fluid need to move and have better holding power. This reduces slippage. I have the corvette servo, longer pin and billet fourth.
I have been running mine this way for quite a while now. I think it works the way it should. No more mushy soccer mom shifts.

A shift kit is a different story.

[killian96ss]

All of the well known transmission shops and builders I have spoken with say not to use those eletronic shift improvers that increase line pressure because of the extra heat generated and how they are hard on the internal parts.

Can you scan and post those directions that say the corvette servo should be used with an electonic shift improver or HPPIII.

I would like to find out why your instructions say the oppposite of what most shops recommend.

Steve

[HenryJ]

Prove it , huh?

Still not sure about "all your shops"

I am doing it and have been for over four years now. Believe who you wish.

Steve, I think you need to visit my transmission shop if you ever get up this way.
I will agree that you do not want to increase shift firmness if you have installed an aftermarket shift kit.
This has been a very long time ago since I researched the modifications that I made. I talked with, I believe Bryan at Portland Performance transmission as well as a good friend that owns the local transmission shop.
The servos do nothing to alter fluid pressures. Changes in volume through differences in diameter and design are where the improvements come from. The longer pin eliminates the slack. Speed and a better design for improved holding power are the benefits.
I am not trying to tell anyone that drastic increases in pressure are a good thing. For this case it is an improvement that does reduce slippage and improves holding power. With the servos speed, the two work well together.

Not trying to argue here. Just trying to be clear that the servos and pin will not multiply line pressure as would be done by adding both a shift kit and the HPPIII programming.

BTW, Hypertech sells the HPPIII for Corvettes too . They get the Corvette servo, stock.

[killian96ss]

I wasn't questioning you, just the directions.

Hypertech has the line pressure increase option with all their tuners, so does this mean that it is good for your transmission?

Any "good" trans builder knows that the Corvette 4L60E had a valve body that was calibrated to work with the "Corvette" 2nd gear servo and the car itself.

LT1, LS1 powered Vettes, Impalas, Caprices, Camaros, and Firebirds had the Corvette servo and the valve body designed to work with this servo and the different characteristics of each vehicle.

6 cylinder equipped vehicles with the 4L60E don't come stock with the Corvette servo and aren't calibrated to work "properly" with them.

The Corvette servo does work better with these transmissions if you install them with a good "complete" shift kit like the Transgo kit which has the correct modifications necessary to work with the servo.

A line pressure increase in a transmission that does not have the right valve body oil flow circuitry will creat extra heat from the pump working harder.

I'm not looking for an arguement either, I just believe that there are better combinations of parts out there that will work better in these transmissions.

I'm sure your combination of trans mods works fine.

I would do things a little different, but that's just because of what I have learned from experience with these transmissions.

My reply was not meant to be a right, wrong, or prove anything.

Sorry for the confusion.



Steve

[HenryJ]

I am sure you could build a transmission to exactly the specifications desired. I am pretty sure that is what was done for our trucks.
GM was looking for the slushlike shifts that are almost imperceptible to the average soccer mom.
One of our members found the shifts of the HPPIII to be harsh and feared for the safety of his coffee.
I can assure you that the HPPIII shift firmness does not build heat. It does no more than the stock tow mode would do for the line pressures. Less than most shift kits increase would be my guess. Yes, shift kits increase line pressure too. That is a good thing. Increases flow and reduces slippage. I can tell which transmissions that come through the shop, whose days are numbered just by watching the line pressure. Just like checking your heart.

Could you build a transmission that will out perform the HPPIII? Absolutely.
Can you use the servos and pins with the HPPIII? Yes.
Will I add a shift kit to my transmission when I rebuild it? Probably not. I am pleased with the transmission shifting and performance that I have. I am not sure that I would want to try something else that I might not be pleased with. I will ad a good sunshell and may look at a hardened output shaft and some improved bearings.

We are getting way off topic though.

Let us all know how your HPPIII and servos work together. My results may be extraordinary and I may be

[roadrunner]

I used to work on trannys myself and Steve and Brule just prove what I've always said. No two techs will likely be in total agreement on what's best/worst in a transmission. This stems not only from experience but personal perceptions. I have learned there are many ways to improve performance and shifting and even more opinions on which is best. What it boils down to is you have to go with what works best for you given your desired outcome and end use. All I'll say on this one.

I second the let us know how the tuner is working for you sentiment.

[Torskdoc]

Ok. now that the dis-agreements are out of the way let me say this.

2 months ago I installed a B&M Trans gauge on the return line. Temps vary btwn 100-150 depending on how cold / warm it is and whetherI get on it or not. With the Hypertech P III onboard and working there has been NO CHANGE in temp that I can tell on the gauge. I did put a 16,000 gvw cooler downstream from the gauge a wwek b4 the hypertech so I imagine the temps are even cooler than what the gauge is telling me. What I'm reading is AFTER THE RADIATOR COOLER temps. This is with a 180* Jet thermostat and a freshly flushed system using Green coolant.

Now for the programmer report.
1.) Engine starts everytime with less than 2 seconds of cranking. Most times it's a flick of the wrist type of turnover and it's running. This IS an improvement. Idling is smoother and I have to check the tach to make sure it's running.

2.) Last 4 fillups were 15.871, 15.796, 15.982, and 16.214. This is an average improvement of 2.1-2.3 mpg. GOOD THING as it's consistent and I haven't changed anything as far as driving habits. DAMNED BIG PLUS.

3.) Shift firmness has settled out or I've gotten used to them. I can feel the TM kick in but not as much as before. Could be the shifts are occuring faster. I'm still happy with them. It doesn't shift like a Ford slushbox. BIG PLUS

4.) Improved power. It's on the 87 Octane tune. I have noticed I REALLY have to watch it on the freeway as it creeps up to 80 without trying now. It used to run @ 70 and it felt like it was dragging. Now it runs @ 80 without barely touching the pedal. Cruise control is more responsive. BIG PLUS.

5.) It DOESN'T HUNT or downshift as much or as fast. I can pull 4th coming off an on ramp and hold it accelerating with about 2/3 pedal. Before it was about 1/2 b4 kickdown @ 35. The TCC kicks in sooner but with it being on a PWM I really don't feel it, I hear it (swissed airbox). BIG PLUS.

I hooked it up to my scanner last week and did notice my Bank 2 Sensor 1 O2 sensor was flatlined @ 0.65. Bank1 Sens 1 was flip-flopping back and forth fairly fast as it has in the past. Bank1 Sens 2 is kinda sluggish making 1 cycle up and down for every 3 of the pre cat sensor. NO SES Lights, NO CODES. As soon as the Eagle s$%^'s then I'll get all three replaced.


ALL in ALL if you're looking for changes that you can make, aren't really interested in a "HARD CORE" programming, (I got mine to change when I tow my trailer) and don't have or don't want to spend a whole lot of $$$ by all means get one. But get a used one. The new ones are a bit pricey and the prices vary ($299 @ Summit and go up from there). You can geet them on e-bay comparatively Cheap if you're willing to wait and bid.

4 of 5 STARS!

[Torskdoc]

Well the old lady told me i could buy a W4M PCM for my Birthday. I got it last week. Threw it in, Absolutely NO PROBLEMS!

Then I finally bit the bullet and changed the fluid, filter on the 4L60E and put in the Corvette Servo and the Billet 4th. This is last Friday Afternoon. LATE Friday Afternoon. Back it out of the driveway, and put it in "OD". WTF???? Downshifted to 3....SLIPS....down to 2nd OK. down to 1st BIG SLIPS!..

Back on the ranps. Pull the pan. I snapped off both of the solenoids when I put the pan back on. Looked like there was enough clearance in the back, BUT apparently I didn't push on the cross over enough to clear it. So called around. NOBODY in Baltimore area had in shops. All in warehouses and none till tuesday. So I waited until tuesday and got them in from NAPA. In the meantime I ended up in the sickbay with Chestpain (they ruled out MI and my arteries are as clear as they were in Sept.). Got out today. Put the solenoids in and filled it up, and went out for a test drive.

The trans shifts really well. Jesse(W4M) pulled 75% of the Torque management out, and along with the Servo's makes it feel close to a THM 400 with an RV pack. Nice and firm, no lag, with just enough kick in the butt to let you know it's shifting but not enough to get the "old lady" crankin up about popping clutches. It still pulls hard if not harder in 4th without hunting, and also 2nd from 20mph pulls hard at 3/4 throttle without downshifting like it used to do.

If the Torque Management wasn't an issue, the shift firmness and quality are approximately the same as with the Hypertech P-III. I swapped out the W4M for my original and did a test run to compare shift quality and firmness. Hypertech was set for 75%. All other parameters equal. The Torque management makes one hell of a difference when COLD! It was really noticible when 1st started up and driven immediately. It used to stumble when it did the 1st few shifts(stock or HPIII) but now(W4M) it just shifts and keeps on going like no tomorrow.


If there was one thing I would ask Hypertech to change on the PIII would be to program in a Torque management adjustment.

THAT would really make it worthwhile.

Larry

[HenryJ]

...Pull the pan. I snapped off both of the solenoids when I put the pan back on.

More than a few have done the same thing.
Transmission oil & filter change, now I have problems, Transmission slipping or engine surging