Aftermarket Brake Rotors

kwalsh · Post by **kwalsh** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 7:30 am

It is time for me to change my brakes. On the front of the CC I am considering installing a set of aftermarket brake rotors that are cross drilled.

Please give me your 2 cents.

Thanks.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 1:08 pm

You don't want cross drilled rotors.

Drilled rotors will crack and actually decrease efficiency due to less pad sweep area. They are good for race cars to help dissipate heat and gas, but they won't perform better than the OEM rotors. Whenever I replace the rotors on my CC I will most likely get some slotted rotors from Power Slot and Performance Friction pads from Autozone. Summit Racing sells Power Slot rotors for the CC.

Steve

kwalsh · Post by **kwalsh** » Sun Apr 09, 2006 4:36 pm

Does anybody know the dimensions of our brake rotors?

Summit lists two sets of Power Slots for our trucks.

Rotor Outside Diameter (in) / Rotor Thickness (in)
10.820 in. / 1.138 in.
11.640 in. / 0.790 in.

I assume that since our calipers have two pistons then we have the 11.6" diameter rotors.

thanks

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sun Apr 09, 2006 5:28 pm

kwalsh, here are the Power Slot part #'s for our truck.

Front Rotors: 8638 PSL (left) & 8638 PSR (right)

Rear Rotors: 8639 PSL (left) & 8639 PSR (right)

Some of the info listed on Summit's web site is wrong.

These part #'s are directly from Power Slots web site.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Apr 09, 2006 7:42 pm

Looks like all four will cost $446

Summit 2001 powerslot search results

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 2:01 am

HenryJ wrote:Looks like all four will cost $446...............

Not this Lad!

kwalsh · Post by **kwalsh** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 6:12 am

thanks Steve.

HenryJ wrote:Looks like all four will cost $446

At that price I think I may put the Power Slots on the front.
If I can't have the OEMs recut, go with some NAPAs on the rear.

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 6:24 am

there doesn't seem to be anything special about the stock rotors and I got nearly 80k miles out of mine. I went with a set of cheapo replacements (<$200 for all 4) without any fancy scoring or drilling. Money better spent elsewhere IMO.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 7:52 am

kwalsh wrote:thanks Steve.

HenryJ wrote:Looks like all four will cost $446
At that price I think I may put the Power Slots on the front.
If I can't have the OEMs recut, go with some NAPAs on the rear.

Are all 4 of your rotors bad?

I can see maybe the fronts needing replacement, but the rear rotors don't wear nearly as fast. You could probably just have the rear rotors turned for about $15-$20 each and then put some Power Slots up front. Slotted rotors will definitely give you better braking performance over oem rotors. The stock rotors only last a long time because of the ceramic pads. Ceramic pads are only good for long life and minimal rotor wear. They are nowhere near the best pads for stopping power. Hawk, Performance Friction, and EBC make the best brake pads currently on the market. Another thing worth mentioning is that Summit Racing does not have the best price on Power Slot rotors. Just the other day I saw some on Thunder Racing's web site for about $15 cheaper per rotor. You might even be able to find them on E-bay for a much better price.

Steve

kwalsh · Post by **kwalsh** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 4:10 pm

When it comes to safety, the brake system on my vehicle is on the top of my priority list. I'll spend the extra cash here; I don't mind spending the extra $$ on slotted rotors up front. Even if they only provide a fraction of braking improvement over traditional rotors. I live in a mountainous/hilly area, and I frequently tow. (and I do need new rotors up front)

I plan on installing the slotted rotors up front w/ ceramics. After an inspection of the rear rotors, some time on the lathe will suffice & some new ceramics.

Thanks for the heads up on Thunder Racing. I'm not familiar with them.

Oh, almost forgot, I started to hear the indicator screech around 68k.

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Tue Apr 11, 2006 10:37 am

Where in contrast, I fly by the seat of my pants and throw causion to the wind with my ever so dangerous non slotted rotors

kwalsh wrote:After an inspection of the rear rotors, some time on the lathe will suffice & some new ceramics.

Did you pull those rear rotors and check the interior of the drum as well? There is very little pad on the parking brake shoe and will very quickly wear down the drum once the pad wears thin and you get metal to metal contact.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Dec 09, 2007 6:26 pm

I ordered Powerslot rotors and Hawk performance pads today.
I may wait a little while to install them, but you can bet they will be on and bedded before fall of 2008.

The state tax kicker was the pleasant surprise that facilitated this Christmas present for the truck.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Dec 19, 2007 1:30 pm

Just an update: Performancepeddler on ebay is where I bought the pads and rotors. It took 9 days for the pads to ship. I have yet to hear on the rotors. Don't go this way if you are in a hurry. Glad I ordered so soon. They might be here by the time I need them

kwalsh · Post by **kwalsh** » Thu Dec 20, 2007 3:26 am

Ouch. 9 days. That is uncommon in this day for ebay purchases.

I had good luck with summit. They even gave me a free hat.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Dec 20, 2007 8:03 am

This is the reply when I asked for order status:

Dan - PerformancePeddler@ebay wrote:I contacted Powerslot and they are holding the order for the 8639PSL/R’s that they had on backorder. They told me they should ship the end of this week or early next week. I will follow up with them today to see where we are with those. Your patience and understanding are appreciated.

It would have been nice to know they were on backorder.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 12:43 pm

Wow. Over a month out and still the rotors have not shipped.
I may be learning a lesson here. Either I should have ordered from someone I can trust, like Jigg, or maybe stick with suppliers that have parts available.
Am I going to end up with a set of rotors that I can never find again?
Word thus far has been that the left side rotors are the hold up. I was told early January. That is about gone now.

Not looking good for Powerslot.

What are the other options?

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 1:02 pm

Summit, and Tirerack usually have the Powerslot rotors in stock.

There are plenty of "drilled" rotors out there like Powerstop if you want to go that route.

I still think the Powerslot rotors are the best choice

(if you can get them)

.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 1:24 pm

I am not a believer in drilled rotors for 4x4 use. Mud can plug the holes and when heated creates a hard plug that wears the pads unevenly.
Warping , the cheese grater effect and a lack of surface area are more things to worry about.

I like the coating that resists rusting. Slots are nice. Or at least I think they will be.

Are there other choices? Stock coated rotors? Other slotted rotors?

Questionable materials are not an option. Uneven iron content can lead to warping , rapid oxidation and other issues.

Maybe stock replacements and a can of paint is the answer?

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 1:40 pm

I'm not a fan of drilled rotors either unless they are specifically made for track use on "track car".

More than 90% of the drilled rotors out there are for looks with some wet weather performance increases.

Cadmium plating is a nice option that keeps rust from forming on the inside the cooling vanes, but obviously it does nothing for the pad "swept" area of the rotor.

"Questionable materials" should be a big concern since there are so many cheap rotors on the market these days.

For a stock type replacement, Brembo makes nice rotors out of quality material.

I know Tirerack carries those.

They also carry the ATE slotted rotors which have a very different, but cool design, however they list them as special order only.

Dimpled rotor are another option plus they don't have the same cracking problems as drilled rotors.

I saw some nice dimpled rotors on another site (?) that looked good.

I think I saw them at JC Whitney, but I could be wrong.

If I can find those dimpled rotors again or some different slotted rotors I will post a link.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jan 11, 2008 2:03 pm

Just received word back from Ken at Powerslot. My rotors ship today.
The response from them was extremely fast. This was the first time I emailed them directly. I am impressed.

We will see how well they perform.
5-6 weeks wait on rotors seems a little harsh. Two weeks of that was during the holidays, so some delay is understandable. I suppose there is always the chance of hitting between shipments and end of year many companies like to cut stock for inventory. I may have just hit the "right" timing.

I will chock this one up to bad timing on my part and look at the entire transaction with an open mind.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Jan 16, 2008 7:03 pm

Finally showed up today. I would say buy at your own risk and don't be in a hurry if you buy from the ebay seller I bought from.

They look good.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 12:20 pm

Brule, I'm sure you already know this , but make sure they sent you 2 left and 2 right since these are directional rotors.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 2:19 pm

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Feb 16, 2008 5:11 pm

Installed the Powerslot rotors and Hawk pads today.

My front brakes were 75% and the rear 25%. Front rotors look good rear rotors not so good. Ebrake shoe was 50%.
This is at 75k miles.

Still need to finish bedding the pads. The fronts are close , but the rear need some work.

The stock front rotors look really good. The rears are heavily oxidized. I see why some are having problems with their spacers and that hub rusting terribly. A coat of rustoleum might save some problems there. Or go with the cadmium plated Powerslot rotors.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Feb 16, 2008 6:28 pm

HenryJ wrote:........I see why some are having problems with their spacers and that hub rusting terribly. A coat of rustoleum might save some problems there. Or go with the cadmium plated Powerslot rotors.

In Senior Citizen lingo, please?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Feb 16, 2008 8:24 pm

The rust builds up on the hat and the surface is uneven for the spacers.
The spacers do not have the voids like the wheels do. Lots of room for imperfections to hold the two apart and have the spacers wobble.

The iron content in the rear rotors must be very different from the front. Perhaps they do not generate enough heat to properly temper, or they just get so much more bombardment that they readily oxidize (rust). Coating would be of great benefit to reduce oxidation (rust) A light coat of paint, or coated rotors could be a big advantage. Rust never sleeps.

The center holes in the spacers are not helping matters. The bevel on the inside is perfect for holding a little moisture. The center is not close enough on those that are not hubcentric to add a small o-ring to seal the center.

I am not sure what THE answer is yet. I still need to bed the rear some more. That may be why I feel that they may not be generating enough heat.
It just about has to be that they get so much slop. Obviously they do not work as hard as the front brakes, yet they wear out 2:1. The debris kicked up from the front hits them as well as what the rear kick up.
I'd like to blame the big rear spacers. My rear rotors are flush with the inside of the wheel rather than inset protecting them. I can't blame them though because the fleet rigs without spacers have the same issues.

Really , I guess I can not complain. 75k miles for the first brake job and minimal cleaning in between is pretty decent.

I do think if I had them off I would paint stock rotors, or do as I did and buy coated. Time will tell if it was a good investment. Right now I am not all that impressed with the effort it is taking to bed them.

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Sun Feb 17, 2008 11:38 am

Trust me, having the calipers inset deeper into the wheels (no spacers) doesn't help the problem any. If anything it aggravates it as now the slop that builds up on the inner wheel will destroy the rear guide pin boots adding to moisture contamination and rusting. Having looked at numerous other makers rear disc setups I feel it would help if the calipers were mounted on the rear side of the axle centerline instead of the front. IMO this would help all the "slop" fall away from the pads and caliper as opposed to dropping down directly on them. I have also noted that this rearward mounted design seems to lend itself to better rear pad life and less caliper freeze-up problems. JMO from personal observations and experience. Additionally in cold weather the aluminum rims I have on mine tend to freeze accumulate mud and ice worse than steel wheels adding to the problems.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sun Feb 17, 2008 1:49 pm

HenryJ wrote:Time will tell if it was a good investment. Right now I am not all that impressed with the effort it is taking to bed them.

Are you having a problem bedding the Power Slots?

I just installed a set of Power Slots on my 88 and it took about 300 miles before they started working real good.

I combined them with Raybestos Super Stop pads and so far I am happy to say that this rotor/pad combo is about a 40% improvement over stock rotors and pads.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Feb 17, 2008 3:27 pm

killian96ss wrote:Are you having a problem bedding the Power Slots?

Just not used to it taking so long to bed. I only have a hundred on them thus far. The fronts are starting to feel ok, but the rear are lousy. Looks like they will probably take the three to five hundred mile break in mentioned on the instructions.

Roadrunner, thanks for the insights on the inset brakes. I had not thought about the comparison. I find it easier to clean with the 3" spacers. I can not say that they get more or less debris, but your argument is sound. I may have an advantage

thanks.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sun Feb 17, 2008 4:12 pm

HenryJ wrote:
killian96ss wrote:Are you having a problem bedding the Power Slots?
Just not used to it taking so long to bed. I only have a hundred on them thus far. The fronts are starting to feel ok, but the rear are lousy. Looks like they will probably take the three to five hundred mile break in mentioned on the instructions.

It's possible these rotors take longer to bed because they are made of higher quality (harder material) than the OEM rotors.

I know GM doesn't use the highest quality rotors available.

My Power Slots took about 300 miles before they started feeling good.

Steve

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Sun Feb 17, 2008 4:51 pm

Do you think the slot rotors are superior to the drilled ones? I have drilled rotors on front of a 90 Park Avenue and really like them. When I use them hard the fronts get so hot the pads smoke and smell regardless whose pads I'm using. I've never had any trouble yet with cracking etc. They also seem to cool down much faster than solid rotors. On my CC I don't think I could get the brakes that hot if I tried (unless maybe going down a mountain) due to having ABS system. Perhaps I am wrong but I have had similiar experiences with other vehicles. On a 92 Caravan (without ABS) I used to have a lot of front bearing trouble due to overheating. Would get so hot it turned the hubs blue clear down to the bearing bores. Same thing on an 87 Aries.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Feb 17, 2008 4:54 pm

I will give them time. I have plenty of time before I need max braking.

I did not buy drilled because the mud packs in there and cooks to a ceramic abrasive. Eats pads fast.

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Sun Feb 17, 2008 5:03 pm

HenryJ wrote: I did not buy drilled because the mud packs in there and cooks to a ceramic abrasive. Eats pads fast.

Totally understandable. I've had the same problem on my CC only inside the cooling vanes between the rotor surfaces. Gets so d**n hard ya need to beat it out of each one with a punch and small hammer!

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sun Feb 17, 2008 5:14 pm

roadrunner wrote:Do you think the slot rotors are superior to the drilled ones?

For a street driven vehicle I think slotted rotors are better than drilled.

Drilled rotors are better for track use, but that's about it.

Solid smooth rotors like OEM have the most pad contact (surface area), followed by slotted and then drilled.

Because OEM rotors have more pad contact area they are actually better than slotted or drilled in rotors for most driving situations.

If you are hard on your brakes, tow heavy trailers, or drive through water alot, slotted rotors will perform better because they can dissipate brake gasses and water faster to help prevent fade or loss of brakes from too much water.

Drilled rotor are great on the track because they dissipate heat faster than smooth or slotted rotors, and are lighter which reduces rotating mass for faster stops.

Unless you buy high quality drilled rotors made for racing you are only getting a "fancy looking" rotor with holes in that might perform a little better than OEM "under hard breaking", but you also run the risk of getting stress cracks from improper drilling techniques.

Steve

kwalsh · Post by **kwalsh** » Wed Feb 20, 2008 6:31 am

It took atleast 300 miles to break in my Powerslots & Hawk pads and I experienced a huge difference in the breaking power while towing my boat.

I broke them in before I did a lot of towing. I took the wife out for a drive, brought her shopping & went for dinner.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 1:04 pm

My opinion is, don't waste your money like I did.

The stock rotors offer better braking under normal service. The Powerslot rotors and Hawk pads are poor in the first application and get a little better when they warm up. Not even a close match to the stock stuff.

I bled out the system just to make sure fluids were in top shape. That gained a little firmness, but the "brake upgrade" is still not up to par. I can not say it is the rotors or the pads. It may very well be a combination. There is no improvement over stock. If anything I have lost performance. The rears can be noisy at times. That has decreased some with wear.
I did not expect miracles, but expected a little better. I did not get that. I would have been at least a couple hundred dollars ahead to buy good stock rotors and a set of NAPA CMX ceramic pads.

Resist the urge to invest in fancy rotors and performance pads. You don't need the slots to relieve gases in the new ceramic pads. You don't need holes to cool and fill with mud. The increased surface area of a smooth rotor is all we need.
Buy a good quality rotors for an even iron content , and invest in a good set of ceramic pads from an AC Delco dealer, or the CMX pads NAPA offers. I have had good luck with both.

Learn from my mistakes and put your money to better use.

I will continue to use these. Maybe there will be some benefits when pushing them hard on a downhill grade with a load on. I have not done that yet , as I wanted to break these in good first.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 5:20 pm

Well after waiting as long as I possibly could it's time to replace the brake pads and rotors all the way around. I have been holding off since I first posted that the stealership wanted to charge me a fortune to turn the rotors almost 2 years ago. Today I heard the wear indicator on the fronts so now it's time to drop the dime. I would love to be able to spend the money on the set Jigg has on his site but after looking at this thread I can get the PartsAmerica lifetime warranty WearEver gold rotors and Raybestos lifetime ceramic pads for about $260+ tax/shipping vs. $525+ shipping for Jiggs EBC kit.
Anyone think I am foolish to save the cash?
I will be ordering the wheel bearings from Jigg it looks like the best deal anywhere for those without going to e-bay for who knows where made units.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 5:35 pm

Anything close to OEM should be acceptable. I was amazed with the stock brakes on the CC after battling with my '97 ZR2's brakes and planning stops 1/4 mile ahead. Those were terrible. I literally almost stuffed myself into the steering wheel on the CC on my test drive. If, bad stock brakes had a poster child then it would be a photo of a '95-'97 S-10

kwalsh · Post by **kwalsh** » Wed Jun 18, 2008 11:54 am

Update: The Powerslot rotors and Hawk pads were not worth the extra $$. I have to replace them already.
I didn't even get 20k out of them. I do tow a lot but I do not ride my brakes.

I'm going back to the NAPA CMX pads & NAPA rotors.

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 3:54 am

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 5:04 am

You say you aren't riding your brakes but are they riding you? check for stuck caliper slide pins or dragging pistons. I just destroyed a set of pads in 300 miles with a stuck caliper.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 8:47 pm

Just an update on the slotted rotors and Hawk performance ceramic pads.

Don't do it! Described in two words: Terrible. Embarrassing.

They do stop you AFTER the first application. They totally suck offroad in the steep stuff. Howl, growl and squawk. My attempt to add performance braking failed.
I will be returning to NAPA Ceramix, or AC Delco ceramic pads when the time comes to replace them.

It really is tempting to go with the clean look and the fancy slots. The theory is good and the arguments for them are persuasive. The Hawk pads carry a status that is recognizable. I was drawn in. It sure sounded like a good idea. I had high hopes of some improvements. Sure I might have to make a little sacrifice in one area, but I expected to see a little gain somewhere. I do not think I received that.

Just a heads up. Resist the urge. I wish I had.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 2:15 pm

Brule something has gone terribly wrong with your setup because the Powerslot rotors with the right pads are far better than the factory rotors and pads.

You are the only person I'm aware of with an S10 who wasn't completely happy after installing these rotors.

Maybe the pads were bad or you didn't properly bed them?

Read the results on any S10 forum about these rotors and you will find nothing but happy people.

After intstalling these rotors on my 96 SS and 88 S10 I noticed at least a 25% improvement if not more.

The Performmance Friction pads I use on all my vehicles offers great stopping power and no fade at all even under hard usage.

The only downside I have noticed with these pads is reduced life (compared to ceramic) and slightly more brake dust.

Hawk pads are usually highly recommended which is why I'm wondering if you got a bad set or something.

I know EBC makes great pads that work well with heavy SUV's and this also seems to be the pad of choice with these rotors.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 2:20 pm

They were bedded right

Ask Reed what they sounded like in Moab. Embarrassing.

They might be a "street racer thing". No good for a 4x4 though.
I get much better performance from the NAPA Ceramix, and AC Delco pads.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 2:36 pm

HenryJ wrote:They were bedded right Ask Reed what they sounded like in Moab. Embarrassing.

They might be a "street racer thing". No good for a 4x4 though.
I get much better performance from the NAPA Ceramix, and AC Delco pads.

You should have experienced much better braking with those rotors, so something was either not done right or you got some defective pads.

Maybe you should try calling Hawk and tell them the problem your having and see if they will send you a new set of pads or pads with a different compound.
Powerslot rotor with the right pads offer way better braking performance than the factory rotors even on a 4x4.

Your results are very odd to say the least.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 3:10 pm

I contacted Hawk performance. We will see their response.

My guess is that this just they way they are. No good until heated.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 5:39 pm

HenryJ wrote:I contacted Hawk performance. We will see their response.

My guess is that this just they way they are. No good until heated.

What type of compound are the Hawk pads (ceramic, street, race etc.) that you are using?

If they are cool about sending you a replacment set, maybe a different compound would work better?

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 6:04 pm

Ceramic.

Doesn't look like they are "cool". They suggest sanding them down and trying to bed them again. They are blaming a coating on the rotors as the problem. If that doesn't work then returning them to the dealer. Purchased on ebay close to a year ago that will not likely be an option.

I have installed thousands of brakes and never had this sort of a problem with performance pads. I do more than the average installer when I install new rotors. I sand/scuff them to remove any contaminants and clean them thoroughly with brake cleaner prior to installation of new pads. I would call the procedures for bedding brakes that I follow, more than what the "average Joe" would do. For this set I followed Hawks instructions explicitly. If these can not perform adequately with a professional install, I can not recommend the "average Joe" try them.

I suppose that I could have a "one in a million" bad set. They are going to have to prove that to me though. I am not going to invest in another set. Nor am I going to recommend these. Burned once is plenty.

Save your money and look elsewhere.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 6:11 pm

Snce they were an E-Bay purchase any chance they were Fake? you wouldn't be the first to get a cheap knock off when buying there.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 6:12 pm

No they are the real deal

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 6:14 pm

Just an thought. Guess there are no cheap Rolex's around your place either.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 6:22 pm

I have a handful of cheap knock off batteries that I am not impressed with. Won't be going that route again.
When it comes to auto parts, I like to stick to well known brands and quality parts. That is something that is getting harder and harder to find these days. Even the good names that "used" to mean quality parts, have changed. You just can not count on much anymore.
The best I can do is follow the advice of those that have had positive results and hope for the best when testing uncharted waters. Hopefully I will save someone the disappointments that I have suffered.
Sharing our experiences we all benefit.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 9:28 pm

The pads must be the problem because Powerslot rotors are made from very high quality castings.

The PS rotors on my SS have about 60k on them which inludes many track days and they are still very smooth and pad wear has also been good.

The PS rotors on my 88 S10 have about 20k milea and they are also working very well.

I have heard nothing but good about Hawk brake pads and have even considered running them myself, but after reading this I think I'll try something else.

I've been happy with the performance using Performance Friction pads even though they don't last as long as the factory ceramic pads.

It really sounds like your pads have the wrong compound (race maybe?).

I wonder if "race" pads could be accidentally packaed as "ceramic" pads?

Race pads need to heat up quite a bit before they start working well and this sounds like the problem you are describing.

Steve

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 11:07 am

After trying several combos over the past 20 years, my recommendation for pads & rotors would be one of EBC's pads and Powerslot or Baer rotors. I've heard Brembo rotors are also top quality, but I haven't tried them yet. Don't waste your time with cheap rotors like Raybestos because they tend to wear out quickly.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 1:08 pm

killian96ss wrote:Don't waste your time with cheap rotors like Raybestos because they tend to wear out quickly.

I will agree that cheap rotors may not be a bargain most of the time. All OE replacement lines seem to have their "budget" models.
I am not sure that you can just discount Raybestos all together based on their cheap rotors. Do you have experience with their newer AT line?

Raybestos wrote:Raybestos Advanced Technology : Premium Grade

* Advanced Technology NO TURN GUARANTEE
* Advanced Technology Mill Balanced
* Advanced Technology Metallurgy
* Advanced Technology Rust Prevention Coating
* OE Vane Configuration

How about composites? Anyone tried those?

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