BAD U-joints

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rlrnr53
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BAD U-joints

Post by rlrnr53 »

Just finished changing both joints on the rear. After 83,000 I started to hear an occasional squeak when pulling out under a slight load. After spending two hours getting the plastic out of the joint, the driveline is quiet again. I'd like to meet the engineer that thought up the idea of plastic to hold the joints in. I would let him know what a bonehead idea that is. Back to the subject, when I finally got the rear joint out, there was only broken needles and rust in one cap. I' glad that I heard the squeak now instead of a loud clunk while on the road.
[size=75]Mitch
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HenryJ
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Post by HenryJ »

Did you melt the plastic out? I use a map gas torch to melt the plastic and then push them out. Heat it to the point the plastic comes oosing out the holes like a little snake. That is just about right.
A little work with a knife and pick to remove the residual plastic and they are ready for the new joint and c-clips.
Last edited by HenryJ on Fri Dec 28, 2007 8:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by F9K9 »

Ah, universal or ujoints. You had me confused for a moment. The wax crap was not one of GMs highest engineering moments. Give me a simply clip that I can see when replacing ujoints :lol:
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Post by rlrnr53 »

I would gladly have given $20.00 for a simpler way to get the plastic out. But heat and a ATC ball joint press did the job. We've had the press in a kit at work for a few years, and this is the first time I know of that it has been used this way. It made the job much easier than with a vise or a hammer.
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Post by HenryJ »

I got one of those big C-clamp presses a while back. I haven't used it yet. I bet it does work well.

"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving!
- ThunderII KE7CSK