Cooking, DEX Cool

snowsurfer · Post by **snowsurfer** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 1:32 pm

Anyone heard of Hyper Cool? It's suppose to be a better coolant than the Dex Cool that we have from the factory.. Good or Bad???
Anyone with any problem with the stock Dex Cool?? I know there's a few lawsuits floating around because of it...

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 2:04 pm

If you still have Dex-Cool in any of your vehicles, get rid of it and switch to green at a minimum.

Steve

CrashNburn · Post by **CrashNburn** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 4:16 pm

dex cool was only a problem in the first few vehicles they used it in, they have fixed the head gasket problem, ive talked to more then a few GM techs, to ask about that as soon as my wife got her cobalt, i inquired about going green. then i called two more dealers and asked them as well.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 4:27 pm

killian96ss wrote:If you still have Dex-Cool in any of your vehicles, get rid of it and switch to green at a minimum.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 4:37 pm

I have seen more than a few cases of "Dex clog". I switched to green pretty early and never looked back.

Do you have a link to any information on the "Hyper cool"? I see very little and nothing specific.

snowsurfer · Post by **snowsurfer** » Tue Jul 31, 2007 2:52 pm

Switch to Green? Like Prestone?

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Tue Jul 31, 2007 2:59 pm

snowsurfer wrote:Switch to Green? Like Prestone?

As long as it is the old "green" style coolant and not the orange Dex-Cool 5 year 100k mile stuff then your ok.

Steve

Torskdoc · Post by **Torskdoc** » Sun Oct 28, 2007 5:45 pm

New guy here. On my 3rd S-10 in 20 years. Just got my CC last month. After seeing my father's '95 Jimmy gum up with the Dex-cr-- 4 years ago and seeing an article (can't remember where now) reference to S-10's and dex- related problems, we did the following.

Took voltage readings (voltage potential) from the coolant itself to a known good body ground. Average voltage reading was 2.8 to 3.2 volts.
This voltage does the same thing on a metal boat/ship.....CAUSES CORROSION. Zincs are sacrificial anodes on ships. Radiators and Heater Cores are sacrificial anodes on S-10's. The Radiator on the S-10/S-15 is NOT grounded/bonded/physically attached to either the body or the frame. Minimizing the voltage potential by grounding/bonding help with corrosion control. So we took some braided metal ground strapping and attached the radiator to the frame in 2 places. Voltage potential in the coolant DROPPED to LESS than 0.2 volts.

We did the same thing in my old Suburban running green. Voltage potential was 3.6v before and 0.08 after.

One of the First things I did with my CC was add ground straps to the radiator. Dropped mine from 4.9 to 0.07v with Dexcool. It's clean without crud BUT it will get flushed and changed this fall along with the wifes pontiac which is sludged after 50,000 and 4 years.

Ground straps are cheap. Head Gaskets Ain't!

Larry
2002 ZR5 CC

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Oct 28, 2007 5:55 pm

Which generates more voltage acid or alkaline?

Rusty Shackleford · Post by **Rusty Shackleford** » Mon Oct 29, 2007 3:31 am

I have also heard that using distilled water in your coolant rather than tap water helps cut down on Dex-Crud. I guess the trace minerals and crap in tap water react with aluminum and form deposits.

Cajun · Post by **Cajun** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 8:22 am

Grounding sounds like a good sound inexpensive fix. I'd like more specifics. What part of the radiator was the ground attached and where on the frame or body did you ground it? Any photos?

I'd also like to know what HenryJ and Killian think of this mod.

Thanks for your input

Country_Guy · Post by **Country_Guy** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 9:45 am

Delete put in another section.

Torskdoc · Post by **Torskdoc** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 7:54 pm

Cajun wrote:Grounding sounds like a good sound inexpensive fix. I'd like more specifics. What part of the radiator was the ground attached and where on the frame or body did you ground it? Any photos?

I'd also like to know what HenryJ and Killian think of this mod.

Thanks for your input

Get some braided ground strapping (go to the junk yard and take a couple of ground straps off another dime). I used #8x5/8 self tapping screws and drilled to the upper frame rail of the radiator (the vertical part).

Remove the Upper radiator shroud. Using a LOW Speed powered Screwdriver, drill the holes for the screws in the radiator frame with the self tapping screws. I put them about an inch away from the side tanks on both sides. Back out the screw, and attach one end of the ground strap to the radiator with the screw. Then run the strap to the core support and drill another screw into the core support. Make sure the area around the core support hole is down to clean metal (scrape the paint off). Attach the other end of the ground strap same as before. After everything is tight, spray a bit of Battery Terminal protector on the joints to help keep corrosion away. Put the Upper shroud back on and you're done. the shroud hides all the straps.

Larry