P0101 code

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 2:41 pm

P0101 MAF sensor error- SES came on again,but I was able to get it read at local auto parts. Is there anything I can do about this without a mechanic or spending a lot of money that is alittle short right now?

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 2:50 pm

Justin wrote:OK, i did some research on the P0101 code and it basically comes down to MAF performance..

http://www.actron.com/faq_detail.php?pid=16152&id=13

http://forums.s-series.org/viewtopic.php?p=190650

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157074

So the question is, did my dealer not udnerstand the proper problem associate with the code...I mean i got a new engine out of a MAF problem?

I am really confused

Raid the bathroom for everything you need. A Q-tip or four and a bottle of Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol)
Take the MAFS off and clean the resistors carefully.
Disconnect the battery while you are doing this and it will be reset by the time you are done.
Total cost $0 (your time is worth nothing

)

If you want to spend some money , buy the spray cleaner.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 11:21 pm

So I take it I have a dirty MAFS? Probably a good time to go to a K&N filter in my HJ mod Airbox too, don't ya think? If I disconnect my battery, won't that kill my stereo? It has some kind of theft deterant system on it. Thanks for the MAFS cleanup Info.

Also,I'm wondering what size Hose clamp I should buy for my inner CV boot. Yes I am getting some green ozz on passenger side,thought I should stop it. My Tbars had been lowered by the first owner. He told me he did it for handling

, I cranked them up 3 turns, that leveled the truck and loosened my steering so I don't have to force it through turns now. Funny thing is I've put 1500 hiway miles on since and no strange tire wear or funky handleing. Nothing but improvement in ride and handleing. I will get an alignment with my new Uniroyal Liberator 30/9.5/15 tires simply because new tires get new alignment. :roll:I'm currently on 255/70/15 Dayton Daytona SR's, wear indicators show bout 1/8 inch left and thats as far as I go.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Sep 21, 2007 2:45 am

I didn't see a huge difference in the K&N drop in. Spend the money if you wish. Eventually it will pay off since it is reusable. It may dirty the MAFS quicker though.

Make sure the theft lock feature has not been enabled. Your owners manual explains this feature.

I don't know the clamp size. Get one that fits properly. You don't want lots of extra hanging out to snag things. Turn the clamp so that when the shaft rotates forward it is less likely to snag on debris.

This is all getting way off topic. I had better stop.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Sep 21, 2007 9:38 am

Alcohol isn't the best stuff to use on the MAF sensor and you risk damaging the 3 little sensors with the q-tips, so I would recommend using CRC MAF Cleaner instead since it is specifically designed for MAF sensors, works better, and there is no chance of damaging anything.

Most auto parts stores carry this stuff and it really does work pretty good.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Sep 21, 2007 12:26 pm

killian96ss wrote:Alcohol isn't the best stuff to use on the MAF sensor and you risk damaging the 3 little sensors with the q-tips...

You are right that you have to be careful. It is not brain surgery. Gently swabbing with a Q-tip is pretty easy and the price is right for someone on a budget.
What, in your opinion is wrong with using alcohol? I hope you aren't saying that alcohol is a bad idea.

HenryJ wrote:I use rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip.
Be gentle.

killian96ss wrote:Posted: 06 Oct 2005 06:14 pm
kwalsh wrote:What is a safe cleaning agent to use when cleaning the sensors?
Air intake cleaner made specifically for fuel injected engines (I believe Gumout makes this stuff in a gray spray can), and like HenryJ mentioned rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip. Don't use carb cleaner, or anything that might leave a residue. The MAF sensors are very sensitive to contamination.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Sep 21, 2007 1:58 pm

HenryJ wrote:What, in your opinion is wrong with using alcohol? I hope you aren't saying that alcohol is a bad idea.

Nothing wrong with alcohol, but it isn't the best or safest way to clean MAF sensors.

CRC MAF cleaner is a better alternative to q-tips and alcohol especially since it is designed for cleaning electrical MAF sensors.

I just noticed that my quote above recommending "Air intake cleaner made specifically for fuel injected engines (I believe Gumout makes this stuff in a gray spray can) is wrong.

I was trying to recommend the CRC MAF cleaner in the "gray can", not air intake cleaner which would probably work ok, but it isn't designed for electrical sensors like the CRC MAF cleaner.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Sep 21, 2007 3:29 pm

I think the rubbing alcohol is best since it comes out of the wife's household budget!

That is until I get caught depleting the supply for automotive needs

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Sep 21, 2007 3:46 pm

HenryJ wrote:I think the rubbing alcohol is best since it comes out of the wife's household budget!
That is until I get caught depleting the supply for automotive needs

Yeah, I use rubbing alcohol for a lot of things as well.

"Why does the rubbing alcohol keep disappearing?"

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Sep 21, 2007 3:49 pm

killian96ss wrote:.... "Why does the rubbing alcohol keep disappearing?"

...and where is my Hairspray!

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Fri Sep 21, 2007 4:07 pm

Don't forget the nail polish remover it has many uses.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Sep 21, 2007 5:17 pm

Acetone, you bet! Cover the label with Duct tape and scrawl the word Acetone on it. She will never notice

I have several cans O "Antistatic ignition parts coating and motorcycle grip lube / adhesive" in the garage. Some made in France with fancy perfumes.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Sep 21, 2007 5:45 pm

HenryJ wrote:Acetone, you bet! Cover the label with Duct tape and scrawl the word Acetone on it...........

The he_l you say! That's who taught me the uses of the it. Works great on tough stains on nurse's scrubs and my ink stained shirts.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sat Sep 22, 2007 12:21 am

Funny thing happened yesterday. I disconnected the MAFS and started the motor, it died almost instantly. I reconnected it and restarted the motor, the SES went out and has not has not come back on???

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Tue Oct 02, 2007 12:05 am

This P0101 code keeps turning that SES on for no reason, or so it seems. After 3 ,fifteen minute or so drives, with the same shut down time in between , the SES light goes out and stays out for no calculated amount of time, then for some reason does it again !! HELP !!!!

I did all the MAFS cleanup ,also cleaned my Throttle body good, new air filter, and cleared out the rib deals in the top of the air box lid.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Tue Oct 02, 2007 1:15 am

Sounds like it might be time to raid a junkyard to find a used MAF unit. install and see if the sensor itself is bad.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 12:48 am

Is there a list of all the possible connections to the P0101 code. I thought I was on to something when I read about the Condensation buildup in the smog pump,but my "02 doesn"t have one. This code keeps throwing the SES and it really bugs me . I have got to find out why this keeps happening.

WileyHunter · Post by **WileyHunter** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 1:53 am

HenryJ wrote:I think the rubbing alcohol is best since it comes out of the wife's household budget!
That is until I get caught depleting the supply for automotive needs

The only problem with rubbing alcohol is that it does have some (trace) of H2O in it... creates a film. In all of my E-Tech years, we have always used denatured alcohol for cleaning most any components. It will not leave a film residue behind.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 3:34 am

Water and alcohol mix. I can assure you that it does not leave a film.
Rubbing alcohol when used to clean the sensor for the IR spectrometer shows only back ground when it evaporates.

I can offer you a look at the spectra if you wish.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sun Dec 30, 2007 3:41 am

OK, I have done all the recommended clean-ups and such, but keep getting SES PO101 code. I just tried the unhook the MAF thing with the engine running and nothing happened. It just kept running fine. But, the SES stayed on until I had cycled through driving and shutting down three times, and as always the SES reset. This has become a NORMAL ? cycle usually every other day. Do I just need a new MAF Sensor, or could it be otherwise? I don"t want something broke that I could Avoid,and the dealer is out of the Question. Please Help

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Dec 30, 2007 5:18 am

Outside of what you have already tried, this is all I could dig up.

GM DATA wrote:P0101 , P0106 , P0121 Poor Acceleration and Detonation in Gear - kw 2.2 2.4 3.1 3.4 3.8 4.0 4.2 4.3 4.6 4.8 5.0 5.3 5.7 6.0 6.5 6.6 7.4 8.1 3L30 372LE 4L60E 4L65E 4L80E 3T40 4T40E 4T45E 4T60E 4T65E #PIP3144 - (Sep 16, 2004)
P0101, P0106, P0121 Poor Acceleration and Detonation In Gear

.

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom described in the PI.
Condition/Concern:

Customer concern of poor acceleration, detonation or "ping" at idle in drive or reverse, and/or possible DTC P0101, P0106 and/or P0121 set in the PCM. The vehicle will perform properly after attaining a speed of about 30 - 40 mph. The condition may also be described by the customer or the dealer as a hesitation, stall when putting into gear, surge on accel (similar to hitting fuel cut or rev limit). The ultimate cause may be a non-holding torque converter stator or damaged stator support shaft within the automatic transmission.
Recommendation/Instructions:

The following checks should be performed in the event that normal engine driveability checks have not resolved the detonation or "ping" at idle in drive or reverse, lack of power from a stop, stall, surge on accel and or hesitation complaint . The transmission oil cooler outlet line (line to the cooler) should be checked for excessive heat. The Tech 2 scan tool may be helpful on vehicles equipped with the transmission fluid temperature sensor in the cooler line (mainly front wheel drive) . On vehicles that do not have the temperature sensor in the cooler line, a temperature probe should be used to check the temperature. The temperature readings should be compared to a like vehicle with the same powertrain option content. In the event the engine is not producing sufficient power the transmission oil temperature at the outlet cooler line will not be excessive and should compared closely to the like vehicle.

In the event the transmission torque converter stator or stator support are damaged, the transmission oil temperature at the outlet cooler line will be excessive to that of a like vehicle. A stall test (brake torque) may point to a damaged torque converter, the stall RPM speed will be lower then a like vehicle. However, poor engine performance will also produce a lower stall speed RPM. If the torque converter stator or stator support is suspect, the transmission should be removed and the stator support inspected for spline damage. If the stator support splines are damaged, the transmission should be repaired and new torque converter installed. If damage is not present on the stator support, the concern is either internal to the torque converter stator or an engine performance concern.

.

Please follow this diagnosis process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. If these steps do not resolve the condition, please contact GM TAC for further diagnostic assistance.
Models:

(96 - 05 All General Motors Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks)

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Mon Dec 31, 2007 1:46 am

I want thank F9K9 for taking the time to help with the research of my repeating SES. I really have not noticed even a slight abnormal operation of my '02 CC. Oh, my fuel consumption is a little lower than in the past. 16.7 as opossed to 18, but we really don't drive economy vehicles. The only thing that concerns me is that dang idiot light coming on and off over and over. It is supposed to warn of somthing wrong,but I can't seem to locate the problem. Ive got 99,908 miles on it ,so I am going to do a major tune-up real soon. Is there a complete list of steps and part #'s for this project ? I've been searching and the posts seem to be all over the place. Hard to keep track of the options to make a decision.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Dec 31, 2007 2:19 am

Horsehammerr wrote:............Is there a complete list of steps and part #'s for this project ? I've been searching and the posts seem to be all over the place. Hard to keep track of the options to make a decision.

There is no one thread to assist you but, Brule has done allot of research on the cap. rotor and plugs. Things keep evolving with new products so, you just need to try to use what seems to work for others. It is time to replace all fluids and filters for sure. 16.7 mpg isn't that bad. I'd be thrilled with that figure but, understand why it is a concern. Just tackle one area at a time and maybe it won't seem so overwhelming.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Thu Feb 28, 2008 3:30 am

Does anyone know which Fuse is the PCM/Ign Fuse? Your suposed to be able to pull this fuse for 30 seconds to clear codes, as opposed to disconnecting the battery. Thats what this JUNK chiltons book says ???

williamcstonejr · Post by **williamcstonejr** » Thu Feb 28, 2008 5:56 pm

I found Two 50 amp maxi underhood and 20 amp fuse underhood. I have the diagram in word. I can email if you want it. Sent you PM, it let me know.

50 amp is IGN B, 20amp is IGN C, still looking for IGN A ????????

Billy

williamcstonejr · Post by **williamcstonejr** » Thu Feb 28, 2008 6:11 pm

Found it. Ign A is Ignition and starter reley. B and C are ignition switch only.

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Sun Apr 27, 2008 8:38 pm

I just finished a "battle" with the P0101 code. Tried two different MAF sensors with no effect. Replaced all 3 O2 sensors, no effect. Had the whole surging-power loss-pinging thing going on. Finally cut out the pre-cat to check for plugging. 30-50% plugged. Installed a pipe for test purposes.

Problem solved!!! Not to mention really "woke up" the sleepy lil V6. Runs more like a 350 4bbl now. Will really put you back in the seat when you get on it.

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Thu Oct 27, 2011 7:37 pm

Ok, so it is my turn with this code.

I have been doing 6 hour drives twice a week and this code happens after about 3 hours. The code only comes up after a stop and if I shift through the gears quickly to get up to speed. At first I thought it was the filling up with gas/gas cap issue but it wasn't because of the code and it happened when I didn't fill up.

I have cleaned the MAS with approved cleaner and changed the filter back to the paper type. So, the big question.........

How do I check the cat with out taking it out?

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Oct 27, 2011 8:16 pm

Pull the forward O2 sensors. If it runs better with them removed...suspect a restriction.

There is no way to see if there is plugging with out cutting. A muffler shop will drill a small hole before and after. Then use a gauge to measure the pressure. Excessive back pressure before means a restriction.

I have suggested using stainless steel band clamps to make temporary repairs after a cut and gut operation. The main cat is all you really need to pass the sniffer.

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Thu Oct 27, 2011 9:15 pm

I have not noticed any real signifigant changes in how it runs but I guess that gradual changes are not as noticable. When you say pull the O2 sensors, does that mean remove them and disconnect them? or just disconnect them? or remove them and leave them connected?

Will this set another code?

Could resriction be measured with a thermal imaging gun/camera? I have access to one of these right now.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 6:56 am

Remove them from the pipe and leave them connected. The open hole will relieve the pressure.
Thermal imaging may indeed be helpful. I think there is information in the plugged precat thread on the temperature differential that should exist on the healthy cat. Seems like 100 degrees hotter after?
Magnaflows website is linked in that thread and may have more.

I hate to say it , but the final answer will be achieved with a sawzall. A SS band clamp can be used to put it back together until you have time to get to a welder to have it put back together right. Cut above the precat with room enough to apply the band clamp. The upstream side of the precat it where the problem usually exists.

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