Skid Plates Installed

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 5:12 pm

Got my set of shields in today. Took about 1.5 hours to get them on tonight. 15min each for the front and transfer case. The front diff shield was a bit of a pain the longer right side bolt would not fit so I used the stock bolt, the hard part was getting my fingers and then a wrench onto the nuts on top of the brackets (needed because the bracket holes were mostly stripped) Had to hold my tongue just right to get those beasts on there and tightened down. And lets not forget the time used finding the #40 torx socket and adapter that I " cleaned up " this weekend when I cleaned the garage for the winter.

Sorry no pics right now will try to snap some later.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 5:19 pm

Whoa! That was pretty fast!
Sounds like things went as planned and everything you needed was there. I guess they were clean enough for you

Be sure to check that right side axle mount bolt after you drive it a little while. Hobie had his fall out while wheeling. I have not had a problem.

It really takes a load off your mind knowing there is some protection for your underparts

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 5:19 pm

Will ne looking forward to the pics. Glad you got hooked up.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 5:28 pm

Yes I like my underparts protected.

I only used a 3/8 socket set to install the bolts and was careful not to strip any mounting holes out. I am sure the bolts I put in for the bracket are plenty tight I didn't figure I could break those so I tightened them up firmly.

Steventruck · Post by **Steventruck** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 12:32 pm

I am probably approaching this differently than you crew cab guys since my truck is a ZR2 and already came with under armor. I am in the process of beefing it up though.

My truck ('99 truck) came with all carbon fiber (or fiber reinforced plastic) front, engine, and transfer case plates and a steel gas tank shield. My front plate is braking on the bottom/rear bend area. On the '98s, the front two plates are 3/16" aluminum. I got the one under the engine off a wrecked ZR2 in a junkyard but ordered the front one listed on the modification part of this site (15155700 SHIELD). Well my frame is taller (because of the ZR2 RPO) but I'll share the process of making it work. You crew cab guys won't have to do this.

The two rearmost bolts (shown at the bottom of the above picture) hold the front plate in perfect alignment so I installed and tightened those bolts. This left a gap between the mounting surface on the plate and where it is supposed to go on the frame. I drilled a 13/32" hole through some 1" box tubing I had around the shop and that made up the gap. then I found some longer bolt and went up through the front hole on the skid plate, through the box tubing, into the rear holes on the frame.

All that is left is to add some additional protection to the remote oil filter area. I will cut a 5"x24" piece of 1/8" plate steel to cover this area and drill and tap the frame horns here to mount this.

Steve

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 3:25 pm

I never could have done this run without the skid plates, there were a few scraping sounds from under the truck on the rock obstical and the plates and nerf bars were there to save me. After the run one guy even checked under my truck because the scrape was so loud but saw nothing even scratched.

B-Man · Post by **B-Man** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 8:13 am

I just picked up a set of these for my non-z and was wondering if there was a good write up on how to install them. I saw the one on the homepage but i could not get a good look at how to mount the brackets for the oil pan skid and the transfer case skid.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 8:28 am

No photos I found. best advice is to take one plate at a time under the truck with you along with the hardware, as soon as you find the right spot for it you will see where the mounting bolts need to go. I had the same problem with the diagram and still managed in less than 2 hours.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 8:59 am

The website has been updated with a couple new diagrams. Right click and select view image to see the larger version. This information is gathered from other posts and edited to add additional information:

You can use the aluminum , or the composite (fiberglasslike) shields.

The front shield needs to have the oil door , for access to the oil filter.
I'm not sure what year they re-located it. My guess would be '94-up S-series. The bolts for the stock plastic shield will work fine. The shields all look and mount the same. The RPO ZR2 shield will not fit.

The front axle/ differential shield (engine shield) and brackets: '90-'9? have a rectangular hole for the oil drain plug on the old steel pans and require notching the rear, for our relocated drain plug. But it does fit. '98-up have the rear notch and no hole. You will also need the two rear mounting brackets w/ at least one of the axle mount bolts and four mushroom headed torx bolts, w/ plastic isolators and spring washers. Any S-series 4x4 w/4.3L will work.

The brackets mount to the differential mounts. The right side bolt will likely be too long. There just is not enough room to add the longer bolt since it hits the oil pan. One member did pry the oil pan over to make the bolt fit. That might be risky though. The stock shorter bolt will work as it is just long enough. Be sure to check all the bolts after a few test runs.

The transfer case shield: I'm not sure all the years here, but '98-up for sure. The aluminum shield is shallower than the composite shield allowing about an inch more ground clearance.

The front two holes mount to the transmission mount. Just reuse the stock nuts. You will need the three self tapping screws w/washers for the back mount. The holes are already there and the self tapping screws will cut the needed threads.

The fuel tank shield: '84-up will work with the correct front bracket and modification of the support brace for those that have the steel fuel tank. It is a little tight on the rear tank strap , but works. '96-up is better because of the relief they added for the fuel tank strap. You will also need five self tapping screws for the frame attachments, one long bolt and nut to mount through the crossmember, two bolts and one nut for the front bracket and of course the front bar brace. '84-up S-series ex-cab pickup.

If you are searching the wrecking yards, use the measurement from the trans mount holes to the rear mounting holes, as a reference for finding the right transfer case shield. I'm not sure but I think the Blazers with the AWD use a longer shield. Also most of the four door blazers I've seen don't have shields.

So I guess if the salvage yard has a '94-up S-series 4x4 it would be worth checking for all the shields. Don't forget to check the Bravada's for shields too. All Hobie's front diff shield brackets and bolts came off a early '90's Bravada. Most of the ones in my area do not inventory shields, so a phone call won't due. It requires a trip to the yard.

B-Man · Post by **B-Man** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 11:52 am

Thanks alot HenryJ thats all the info i needed.

D68enny · Post by **D68enny** » Wed Dec 20, 2006 10:51 pm

HenryJ is that all 94 and up S-series or is the extended cab S-series a better choice to hunt down?

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Dec 21, 2006 11:02 am

D68enny wrote:HenryJ is that all 94 and up S-series or is the extended cab S-series a better choice to hunt down?

Most of the shields I have recovered have been off of Blazers. The pick-up shields work too, but seem to be fewer. '94 may be the "'tween" year for the first gen/second gen and I am not sure at what point the oil filter was moved to the front lower mount.

Second gen front steering and transfercase shields are the best bet.

Mightym · Post by **Mightym** » Thu Aug 23, 2007 12:19 pm

I have finally managed to get the rest of my shield package together, but I have no clue what order the bolts and washers go on. If somebody could let me know that would be great. Also when I ordered the parts the plastic washers have a new part number and when I recieved them they are now metal washers.

Thanks, Ron

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Aug 23, 2007 3:54 pm

Off hand, all I can tell you is that the front shield uses washers between the bolt and the shield.

Mightym · Post by **Mightym** » Thu Aug 23, 2007 6:07 pm

Do you have any idea where in the mix the spring washers go? I'm not even sure what their purpose is.

Ron.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Aug 23, 2007 6:14 pm

HenryJ wrote:... four mushroom headed torx bolts, w/ plastic isolators and spring washers. Any S-series 4x4 w/4.3L will work.

Bolt, spring washer, nylon washer, shield.

Mightym · Post by **Mightym** » Thu Aug 23, 2007 6:22 pm

Thanks, for letting me know the order, I kept studying the picture but it looked like a lock washer and I didn't see anything that looked like the spring washer. What is the purpose of the spring washer anyway? When I ordered the parts they said that Part Number 11609234 replaces 1565096 , when I recieved them the nylon washers are now metal washers. Just thought I would let your know. Also price has gone up by quite a bit.

Thanks alot, Ron

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Aug 23, 2007 6:40 pm

Mightym wrote:...What is the purpose of the spring washer anyway? When I ordered the parts they said that Part Number 11609234 replaces 1565096 , when I received them the nylon washers are now metal washers.

The mushroom headed bolts have a shoulder. The bolt tightens against this shoulder. The spring washer delivers tension to the nylon washer and retains the shield with a little bit of play to compensate for flex, I guess.
Take the metal washers back. They will not isolate the steel spring washer from the shield. You might even return the spring washers as well. A steel washer against the aluminum shields will wear them away quickly and destroy your shields. The steel washers are to work with the composite shields.

Here are your options:
Go to the hardware store and buy nylon washers. Use the spring washers and these nylon washers to mount the shield.
Or, buy some large washers that fit over the shoulder of the mushroom head torx bolt (5/8" maybe?) then cut some rubber washers from some rubber belting or gasket material. 1/8"-3/16" works the best. An old truck inner tube would work. You might have to cut two for each bolt to make things tighten up. This will actually work better than the stock set-up.

Mightym · Post by **Mightym** » Fri Aug 24, 2007 10:21 am

Thanks for the info, that makes a lot of sense. I didn't even think about the metal washers wearing the Aluminum skid plates. I notice it says to get 3 self taping bolts for the transfer case plate, do you know what size would work the best?

Thanks, Ron

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Aug 24, 2007 1:14 pm

I don't recall right now what size they were for sure. I want to say 10mm 1.25 pitch?
They are the metric equivalent that looks like a 3/8" coarse thread bolt. These are the same as the bolts holding the front steering shield in place where it bolts near your tow hooks. The head is 15mm. Those would work and be a good example.

jaredsonoma · Post by **jaredsonoma** » Wed Sep 12, 2007 8:05 pm

Hi I am new to the forum and have a 2003 GMC SONOMA CREW CAB and am looking to get a set of skid plates for my truck and am looking for any advice on where to locate a set. Thanks for any help!

purduecrew · Post by **purduecrew** » Wed Sep 12, 2007 8:22 pm

jaredsonoma wrote:Hi I am new to the forum and have a 2003 GMC SONOMA CREW CAB and am looking to get a set of skid plates for my truck and am looking for any advice on where to locate a set. Thanks for any help!

dont anyone help this guy, respond to his messages, answers his phone calls. ever. its spam i tell you!

OH and use the search function...when will these people ever learn?

Cajun · Post by **Cajun** » Mon Nov 05, 2007 5:03 am

Ok, so I bought a set of shields about a month ago from MightyM and I finally have time for the install. The front one is on , no problems. The brackets are on for the front differential shield, also no problems. Here's where I need conformation, four mushroom headed torex bolts and washer combinations are for the front diff. shield? and three self tapping bolts for the rear of the transfer case shield along with the transmission mount studs and nuts at the front? For the self tappers and or the mushroom head torex bolts do I need to drill the stock holes out larger?

Thanks for the help!

gocntry · Post by **gocntry** » Mon Nov 05, 2007 11:48 am

Cajun wrote:Here's where I need conformation, four mushroom headed torex bolts and washer combinations are for the front diff. shield? and three self tapping bolts for the rear of the transfer case shield along with the transmission mount studs and nuts at the front? For the self tappers and or the mushroom head torex bolts do I need to drill the stock holes out larger?

Thanks for the help!

Yep You Got It, That's How Mine Is And Don't Drill Out Any holes

Cajun · Post by **Cajun** » Mon Nov 05, 2007 11:52 am

Thanks for the help! I'll give it another try tonight!

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Skid Plates Installed

Skid Plates Installed

installing shields?