K&N FIPK 2 Problems

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu Jul 20, 2006 12:25 pm

I recently discovered a design flaw with the K&N FIPK 2 part # 57-3017-2. While doing a recent oil change I just happened to notice that the saddle bracket from the kit had completely snapped off the original air cleaner mounting stud.

This in turn caused damage to the K&N air filter. My filter has several holes in it from rubbing against some wires and metal underneath which is directly related to the whole assembly being unsupported after the bracket snapped off.

The good news is that K&N replied to my e-mail about the failure only 1/2 hour after I sent them the info and pictures. They are going to send me a new filter and order me a new bracket from GM.

They did not say if this was the first time that they have heard of this problem, but they sure did respond fast and make things right.

I did manage to temporarily rig it by using a self tapping screw to re-attach the heat shield to the broken bracket and crimp the holes in the filter to close them. I also split a hose down the middle and installed it into the circular heat shield opening to prevent it from cutting through the unsupported intake assembly.

If you have this kit on your truck, you might want to inspect it for possible damage.

Steve

border man · Post by **border man** » Thu Jul 20, 2006 3:46 pm

My K&N filter has cracked around the rubber seal that attaches to the plastic hose. I wonder if they'll replace it?

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu Jul 20, 2006 3:53 pm

border man wrote:My K&N filter has cracked around the rubber seal that attaches to the plastic hose. I wonder if they'll replace it?

If you can show proof of purchase then yes, because all K&N filters have a million mile warranty.

Steve

border man · Post by **border man** » Thu Jul 20, 2006 6:17 pm

How did you contact K&N?? Problem is if they want the filter first as I don't feel like puttimg the airbox back on while I wait for a replacement>

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Thu Jul 20, 2006 6:55 pm

border man wrote:How did you contact K&N?? Problem is if they want the filter first as I don't feel like puttimg the airbox back on while I wait for a replacement>

tech@knfilters.com

I sent them the pictures shown above and told them that I bought their kit from Summit Racing and I also mentioned the date it was purchased.

The pictures seemed to be good enough, and they did not ask me to send them the damaged filter.

Steve

SONOMA915 · Post by **SONOMA915** » Fri Jul 21, 2006 4:27 am

I noticed a rattling noise at start up the other day and when I opened the hood, I found the sattle bracket bolt loose. I remember putting it on as tight as it would go, so I guess I saying thanks in a round about way.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Jul 21, 2006 8:03 am

Steve,
Thanks for taking the time to post about the FIPK problems. I guess I have had mine off and on so many times with the LS1 efan that it hasn't had tome to work loose or break.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Tue Jul 25, 2006 7:49 am

I got my new filter today from K&N.

I am having a hard time locating the part # for the stock air cleaner mounting stud/bracket though.

K&N said they will pay for the bracket if I can find the correct GM part # and e-mail it to them.

Does anyone here have access to a GM parts break down manual? I'm not even sure that it's called an air cleaner mounting stud/bracket. My local dealer was no help, but that's nothing new.

Steve

2kwik4u · Post by **2kwik4u** » Tue Jul 25, 2006 8:50 am

I have to go to the dealer when I return from Georgia this weekend, I'll have them pull up an exploded view. I'm willing to bet it is a fuse panel mount bracket or some other such BS name.

In other thoughts, I checked my FIPK last night whilst changing the oil, and all looks good to me :dunno:

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Tue Jul 25, 2006 8:57 am

2kwik4u wrote:I have to go to the dealer when I return from Georgia this weekend, I'll have them pull up an exploded view. I'm willing to bet it is a fuse panel mount bracket or some other such BS name.

Thanks for your help!

Your probably right about the actual name of the bracket.

I only refer to it as the air cleaner mounting stud/bracket because that's what K&N calls it in their instructions.

Steve

gocntry · Post by **gocntry** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 4:29 am

killian96ss wrote:I got my new filter today from K&N. I am having a hard time locating the part # for the stock air cleaner mounting stud/bracket though. K&N said they will pay for the bracket if I can find the correct GM part # and e-mail it to them. Does anyone here have access to a GM parts break down manual? I'm not even sure that it's called an air cleaner mounting stud/bracket. My local dealer was no help, but that's nothing new.

Steve

Steve,

Is The Part You Need On This Pic?

If It's #3 That Part # Is 25171130 And Its Called A Bracket

2kwik4u · Post by **2kwik4u** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 4:33 am

I think thats the one that goes to the core support. I'm thinking he needs to the one that is under the fuse block.

You're dayum close though!

gocntry · Post by **gocntry** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 4:48 am

2kwik4u wrote:I think thats the one that goes to the core support. I'm thinking he needs to the one that is under the fuse block.

You're dayum close though!

Well My Parts Sheets Don't Seem To Include The Fuse Block & Mounting Bracket

But I'll Keep Looking

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 6:14 am

2kwik4u wrote:I think thats the one that goes to the core support. I'm thinking he needs to the one that is under the fuse block.

You're dayum close though!

Yeah, I need the one under the fuse block that has a stud in it which attaches to the rear part of the air filter box.

The parts shown above have been the only parts break down that I can find also.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Jul 27, 2006 5:00 pm

Thanks for the heads up Steve. I found mine broken just like yours.
I drilled a new hole on what was left of the bracket and moved everything there. I lowered the L-bracket and heat shield to the level of the bracket instead of on top of the stud. That should take some pressure off.
The heat shield is tighter to the electrical center and actually lines up better that it was before.
My filter was undamaged, so I am going to chalk it up to experience.

I will say that if I have another problem, this may find it's way to the classifieds and my modded stock box will return

Post by **Walt** » Fri Jul 28, 2006 8:27 am

I wasn't able to tell much, if any different when I changed from the modded airbox (with K&N filter) to the FIPK. Were you guys able to tell much of a difference?

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Jul 28, 2006 1:29 pm

HenryJ wrote:Thanks for the heads up Steve. I found mine broken just like yours.
I drilled a new hole on what was left of the bracket and moved everything there. I lowered the L-bracket and heat shield to the level of the bracket instead of on top of the stud. That should take some pressure off.
The heat shield is tighter to the electrical center and actually lines up better that it was before.
My filter was undamaged, so I am going to chalk it up to experience.

I will say that if I have another problem, this may find it's way to the classifieds and my modded stock box will return

So I'm not the only one with this problem.

I have a theory as to what caused this. The K&N FIPK is designed for a stock vehicle, so maybe the 2" BL is putting more stress on this bracket than it was designed for. The 1" TB spacer seems like it would help the situation, but there is still 1" missing from the equation. I have been considering the 1" intake manifold spacer for more power and it would also bring things back up to the proper level for the FIPK. One other possibility that I haven't yet confirmed is maybe I have a motor mount on it's way out. I know for sure neither one has separated, but it would take much movement to snap that bracket if the engine was able to move side to side a little bit.

Steve

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Jul 28, 2006 1:33 pm

Walt wrote:I wasn't able to tell much, if any different when I changed from the modded airbox (with K&N filter) to the FIPK. Were you guys able to tell much of a difference?

Very little difference if any.

The FIPK should flow a bit more air and has better contours than the stock system, but the gains if any really aren't worth the extra money spent on the FIPK.

Steve

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Jul 28, 2006 2:10 pm

This is the intake manifold spacer I was referring to (click on VMAX manifold spacer, and then click on part # 11010 for more pictures and instructions for the install).

It is 1" thick and combined with a 1" TB spacer you would end up right back at the stock intake height before a 2" BL.

Here is a dyno chart with the intake manifold spacer installed on a 2001 S10 Blazer with the 4.3L.

It would be nice to see another 13.46 hp and 21.10 ft #'s of torque at only 3,300 rpm.

Steve

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Mon Jul 31, 2006 10:23 am

Update! I found the part # for the bracket.

It is GM # 15006810 and it is called a fuse relay center bracket. My cost through Van Devere Pontiac, Buick is $6.10 plus shipping. K&N is covering the cost of the bracket and shipping.

If anyone else runs into this problem, K&N is very good about making things right. All of their filters carry a 1 million mile warranty against all defects or product related damage as long as you mail in the warranty registration card. They have already sent me a new filter free of charge and they are now paying for a new bracket as well. Excellent customer service!

I wish all companies were like this.

Steve

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 2:02 pm

Update # 2.

The new bracket came in today and GM # 15006810 is the correct part # for the fuse relay center bracket.

I haven't installed the new parts yet because I suspect my passenger side motor mount is starting to come apart since I have developed a new knocking noise that is coming from that area.

If the motor mount is bad then it might explain how the stud snapped off the original bracket.

Steve

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Wed Aug 16, 2006 4:54 pm

That FIPK kit sucks. I ran mine for 12k miles and it gave me nothing but trouble. No matter how tight I tightened things, something would come loose, whether it was a hose or some nut. I have all the pieces if anyone wants to buy it. I've found the stock box with a drop in KN filter works best. Maybe Air Raid has a better setup. I think the biggest problem is they don't let any of the setup have any kind of flex, it's too tight. Something is always going to give.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Aug 16, 2006 5:13 pm

I am starting to think you have the right idea Paul. I did keep my modded stock box, but gave my drop in K&N filter to Melloyellow on his whirlwind mod trip.
I really am tempted to swap back just to see the difference.
I have only had mine come loose while wheeling, once. Still It is not something I want to have to worry about.

GeorgesBlazah · Post by **GeorgesBlazah** » Wed Aug 16, 2006 5:32 pm

Mine got loose once when I first got it and it hasnt happend again in like 4 years.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 1:07 am

killian96ss wrote:Update # 2..................If the motor mount is bad then it might explain how the stud snapped off the original bracket.

Steve

That is one repair I am not looking forward to doing.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Mar 25, 2007 7:28 am

Strike three! The FIPK was loose from the throttle body again!
It is history.
I removed the turtle and replaced it with the stock hat and accordion rubber tube. I am still using the filter, heat shield and lower tube.

Bad design. Flawed. Jeopardizes the engine. All key words to be in a letter to K&N.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sun Mar 25, 2007 8:09 am

I keep putting off writting a letter. If you need someone else with you on this, I'll do it. Maybe if we get a bunch of people together, we can get our money back. Let me know.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Mar 25, 2007 9:41 am

I sent an email to: tech@knfilters.com

We will see what their response is.

I would suggest that all with concerns follow suit.

Here was my letter:

Flawed Product wrote:I own a K&N FIPK for a 2001 Chevrolet S-10 4.3L. This product is faulty.
Three times now for no apparent reason the intake hat has come loose from the throttle body adapter. This is a risk jeopardizing the engine!
I am an ASE certified mechanic and run a discussion forum for S-series enthusiasts: http://www.s-10crewcab.com/phpBB2/
We have nearly 500 members and the word will spread fast.
What are you doing to solve this documented problem?

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sun Mar 25, 2007 12:09 pm

I know this doesn't help any, but maybe you guys are not installing the FIPK properly.

The only reason I say this is because I had the FIPK on my 01 CC for 90k plus miles without any connection ever coming loose.

I did have the air cleaner stud bracket break once, but I believe this is a direct result of the 2" BL combined with a 1" TB spacer which creates an alignment problem between the air filter location and the throttle body.

The FIPK was never designed to be used on a body lifted S10.

If you have a FIPK on a body lifted S10 you will have a misalignment of 2" which is enough to cause problems between the filter and the throttle body.

I would suggest properly positioning the rubber hoses/clamps and tightening them very well.

It also helps to have a 1" TB spacer to help make up that 2" of misalignment.

K&N has excellent customer service so maybe with some luck they will add some "lips" to the tubing ends to help prevent the hoses from separating from the tubes so easily.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Mar 25, 2007 12:42 pm

killian96ss wrote:...I would suggest properly positioning the rubber hoses/clamps and tightening them very well.... maybe with some luck they will add some "lips" to the tubing ends to help prevent the hoses from separating from the tubes so easily.

I have given it three strikes. I was a skeptic at first, but there is just no way these will stay in place when used under normal conditions.
The problem lies with the throttle body adapter. It has no lip to retain the hose. The hoses stay in place on the MAFS, and tubes just fine.

That adapter is just a poorly designed piece. There is no way that the hose can get a reasonable grip, no matter how tight you get the clamp.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sun Mar 25, 2007 2:29 pm

HenryJ wrote:
killian96ss wrote:...I would suggest properly positioning the rubber hoses/clamps and tightening them very well.... maybe with some luck they will add some "lips" to the tubing ends to help prevent the hoses from separating from the tubes so easily.
I have given it three strikes. I was a skeptic at first, but there is just no way these will stay in place when used under normal conditions.
The problem lies with the throttle body adapter. It has no lip to retain the hose. The hoses stay in place on the MAFS, and tubes just fine.

That adapter is just a poorly designed piece. There is no way that the hose can get a reasonable grip, no matter how tight you get the clamp.

I agree that there should be a "lip" on the TB adapter or it should be secured by the original t-nut design (I prefer the t-nut myself), however this does not solve the problem of the 2" misalignment between the TB and the air cleaner mounting point when you have a 2" BL.

That 2" misalignment is what's causing the TB adapter to come loose, not the lack of a lip.

The design flaw in minimal compared to the fact that these FIPK's were never designed to be installed on an S10 with a BL.

Once you install one of these FIPK's on a body lifted S10 you have already exceeded "normal conditions" for this design.

There are a few things you could try to help prevent the separation of the tubes and hoses.

Try cleaning the mounting areas where the hoses clamp to the tubes.

If there is any sort of oily residue on the tubes, hoses or TB they will be able to separate very easily even if they are tightened properly.

If your problem is always with the upper TB adapter clamp then try gluing that section together along with using the clamp and see what happens.

If you posistion the upper TB clamp as high as it will go and the lower clamp as low as it will go with proper tightening you shouldn't have any problems.

My FIPK never came loose in 90k + miles of use.

Steve

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Mar 25, 2007 3:39 pm

Brule has a TB spacer (I think) and that should cut the problem in half. I have one too and other than when I first installed it I have had no problems with mine.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Mar 25, 2007 4:40 pm

killian96ss wrote:I agree that there should be a "lip" on the TB adapter or it should be secured by the original t-nut design (I prefer the t-nut myself)...

Me too.

That 2" misalignment is what's causing the TB adapter to come loose, not the lack of a lip.

There are no misalignment issues with my installation. I have taken steps and corrected the installation to compensate completely for the bodylift.

Try cleaning the mounting areas where the hoses clamp to the tubes...
If you position the upper TB clamp as high as it will go and the lower clamp as low as it will go with proper tightening you shouldn't have any problems.

Didn't work.

Sorry no amount of talking will cure the problem. There is a design flaw that needs to be addressed. I will not be using it again until corrections are made.

Keep a close eye on yours Reed. I have had mine longer than most on this board. I too , did not believe the problems others have had. I have done my best to try to solve any issues. This time was the last straw. Fool me once shame on you. Fool me twice shame on me.

FIPK Problem , FIPK Issues , Need to do something with FIPK

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Mar 25, 2007 5:14 pm

I have been watching mine ever since Steve alerted us and will continue to do so. I will jump on your lead and write them when I have trouble but, if anyone was going to have problems with something wouldn't I be the poster child?

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sun Mar 25, 2007 5:16 pm

I just want to return it for a full refund.

gocntry · Post by **gocntry** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 4:51 am

Here's A Recall K & N Is Doing On The Dodge Kits K&N Recall So Some Of Their Kits Might Have Some Problems.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 11:24 am

This cold air intake is NOT designed for a body lifted S10!

Can this system really be modified to compensate for the 1"-2" of misalignment caused by a BL?

The answer to this ? is pointless since you are still trying to make something fit where it was never intended to be used.

It is not K&N's fault that you are installing one of their FIPK's on a vehicle it was never intended for!

Let's take a look at the design and see where it could be improved.

All of the tubing ends including the TB hat should have a retention lip built in to help prevent the pieces from separating.

The adapter that bolts to the TB should also have a retention lip for the same reason.

I would still like to see K&N come out with a new TB hat that simply bolts on using the factory t-nut.

The t-nut design makes the hat very easy to take off when you need to do maintenance.

I also thing the TB hat should have some sort of flex tubing just like the OEM TB hat.

The engine does move around a little due to torque loading so a flexible section in the intake tract will allow the system to move with the engine instead of against it.

The heat shield design is kind of pointless since the air filter can still draw in plenty of hot air all around the shield.

An enclosed box that connects only to an outside air source (Volant makes a good one) would make this a true cold air intake instead of a true hot air intake.

Maybe K&N could make and sell a special adapter for those of us who do have a body lift.

Does anyone else have ideas to help improve the design?

It is better to approach K&N with design improvement ideas that will benefit everyone rather than to just say that their product is defective and that they better do something about it (this is more of a threat than a solution)

Back to the 3 links that HenryJ posted!

I read all of them and noticed that some people having the same problem had broken motor mounts.

If you have broken motor mount or one that is starting to separate then no matter what you do you are going to have problems with your FIPK.

Once again this is not K&N's fault!

It also appears that the earlier designs did not have a retention lip built into the TB hat and the rubber coupling was made of a different material which caused loosening problems.

The FIPK on my CC had a retention built into the tb hat and the upgraded rubber coupling so this might explain why I had absolutely no problems with pieces coming apart with over 90k miles of use.

For those of you who have the separation problem, maybe you should request that K&N send you the updated parts to see if that's what your problem has been all along.

Sorry I made this post so long, I just wanted to state the facts about this problem and offer some possible solutions.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 2:59 pm

The body lift can not be blamed. Raise the TB 1" with a spacer and lower the single mounting point 1" and it is as stock.

I do have the updated rubber piece (black).

The adapter is flawed. No lip is a flaw.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 3:30 pm

HenryJ wrote:The adapter is flawed. No lip is a flaw.

My TB hat had a lip on the bottom, but the lower metal adapter that bolts to the TB was still smooth.

Does your TB hat have a lip on the bottom?

If not K&N should at the very least send you the updated TB hat.

In the 90k + plus miles I had this FIPK on my CC I must have taken it off at least 20-30 times for maintainance reasons like cleaning the TB, MAF, IAT sensors and to vacuum the large stuff from the filter.

Even though I took it off sooo many times it never came loose by itself.

If the TB hat doesn't have a retention lip then it only makes sense that when the motor is twisting around the hat could easily pop off.

This was a design flaw and is likely the reason why K&N redesigned the TB hat.

They should have redesigned the metal TB adapter as well.

Some of the members over @ ZR2.com had the same problem with the earlier design on the TB hat.

Some said sanding the metal ring made things work right.

Maybe this is the only problem your having besides some obvious needs for design improvements.

Steve

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 3:37 pm

HenryJ wrote:The body lift can not be blamed. Raise the TB 1" with a spacer and lower the single mounting point 1" and it is as stock.

As soon as I re-read this I thought of something else.

You must also lower the heat shield 1" if using a 2" BL and 1" TB spacer.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 4:08 pm

killian96ss wrote:You must also lower the heat shield 1" if using a 2" BL and 1" TB spacer.

Or cut the hole lower in the heat shield. As you mentioned earlier the hole is huge and does not seal well. Plenty of room to compensate with only a slight trimming.

I used Reflectix to provide a flexible seal and better shield the heat afterward.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sun Apr 01, 2007 8:25 am

Any word, Henry?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Apr 01, 2007 8:41 am

No response. All they need to do is ignore the problem. The S-series in no longer in production, so it is only a matter of time.
They will do the same as Steve, in finding ways to blame something else.

I really doubt that they will stand up and fix the problem this late in the game.

I will email one more time, but don't expect a response from that either.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sun Apr 01, 2007 10:46 am

Have you tried calling?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Apr 01, 2007 11:00 am

quickbiker wrote:Have you tried calling?

Nope. I am not much of a "phone person".
If it is a hill I want to die for...I guess I would drop the dime. I really don't think this is a battle I am going to waste much on. I have already wasted $269 on the intake and will have to look at that as a learning experience. Much like so many of the mods I have tried and failed.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 3:35 pm

I found my bracket broken today while messing with the Friggin' OEM wire looms/separators. Guess they'll just blow this off if, I contact them. I got mine at a decent price for $200 delivered but, they just lost a customer.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 3:58 pm

Do you have room to redrill the hole and remount it?

Going back to the stock turtle and convoluted (accordion) tube may help. That is where I am now.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 5:53 pm

HenryJ wrote:Do you have room to redrill the hole and remount it............

Looks tight, Brule. I have no damage to the filter yet but, stock with the swiss mod is an option. Super Lift Off Road Park should be a good testing ground. I'll keep a close eye on the situation and may find the time to make the switch but, it is doubtful. I have heard talk of mig welders being brought to the gathering so, who knows.

They did say that it was not meant for 2" BLs so, I really can't complain to loudly!

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 6:09 pm

Aw, it fits just fine with the BL , spacer and some adjustment. Just a poor design.
Tiny bracket on one side. Tubing with no place to flex. Something has to give.

Mounting the stock box back in place doesn't leave room for the flex-a-lite VSC. Moving that might be difficult.
Mine is on the inside of the heat shield.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 6:57 pm

HenryJ wrote:............................Mounting the stock box back in place doesn't leave room for the flex-a-lite VSC. Moving that might be difficult.
Mine is on the inside of the heat shield.

Looks like a Barch style flexicuff (versus a ziploc or cable tie) might be in order then, That VSC was something I didn't even consider. Motor mount shouldn't be bad at 30k but, will have to teach Mrs. Hoff about short revving with foot on the brake.

If the motor mounts scared Jim then I am terrified!

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sun Aug 12, 2007 4:26 pm

Reed, is this the bracket you that you broke?

If so I still have a new GM bracket (same one in the picture) that K&N replaced for me on my CC.

I never got around to installing it before I wrecked my CC

so if you want it let me know and I will give it to you for "very cheap".

As fas as the K&N FIPK, I agree with Brule that the real problem is the lack of flexibility like the stock intake tube "hat" has.

If you could combine the stock intake "hat" with the FIPK then you would have a good reliable air filter system.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Aug 12, 2007 4:38 pm

killian96ss wrote:...If you could combine the stock intake "hat" with the FIPK then you would have a good reliable air filter system.

That is exactly what I did when I got tired of the FIPK turtle popping off the TB. I lose the smooth tube of the FIPK, but don't worry about it popping loose anymore.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sun Aug 12, 2007 4:44 pm

HenryJ wrote:
killian96ss wrote:...If you could combine the stock intake "hat" with the FIPK then you would have a good reliable air filter system.
That is exactly what I did when I got tired of the FIPK turtle popping off the TB. I lose the smooth tube of the FIPK, but don't worry about it popping loose anymore.

Did you have to cut or modify anything for the stock "hat" and remaining FIPK pieces to connect together?

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Aug 12, 2007 4:48 pm

MAFS to the TB is the stock stuff. MAFS to the aircleaner is FIPK , including the heat shield. No modifications.

That is a whole chunk of money for a short piece of tube, air filter and heat shield. Live and learn I guess.

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 7:27 pm

Well I just had my bracket break. I'm going to try and rig it up tomorrow. I noticed it broken when I was working on my alternator and have no idea how long it has been like that but there does not appear to be any other damage as far as I could tell in the dark tonight. Was there ever a real solid fix for this issue?

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 7:38 pm

I went back to the accordion. Something has to give.

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Sat Oct 11, 2008 5:17 am

I agree something does have to give. I am going to try to find a way to incorporate either some flex pipe or a springy mounting device of some sort where the stock bracket is. It has been operating like this for years and I don't have a body lift so I figured it would have been all set, I was wrong.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sat Oct 11, 2008 11:56 am

green02crew, I still have a that same GM bracket in my garage (brand new never installed).

I wrecked my CC before installing it so if you want it I will let it go for $10 + S&H.

PM me if you are interested!

Steve

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Sat Oct 11, 2008 12:57 pm

I may be interested at some point, I have rigged it together for now. I redrilled a hole in the bracket and used some small metal springs and locknuts on the bolts to allow some slight movement and flexibility for the bracket. This may help or it may be too flexible. Only time will tell on this one. Either way I don't feel comfortable with the way it broke or way it is held together. The only good thing is it must have just happened because my filter does not show any wear marks and it was in a place where it was rubbing.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Fri Oct 31, 2008 11:33 pm

I've had my stock box back in for a year now or so. I can't remember what I did with the cold air setup. Maybe I threw it away. I do have the KN filter though. I always thought the stock box does well, good through water also.