P0327.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 1:03 pm

"P0327 Knock Sensor 1 circut low input (bank 1 or single sensor)"

I threw this code this morning while getting on the CC pretty hard before I should have. Running late for a dentists appt and I had already rescheduled 2x.

HPPIII is only programed for my tire size and firm shifts. I have noticed that rpms go too high to suit me before a shift when WOT! I always backed off and don't want to see if, it will shift. It was doing this when I had the shift points and rev limits modified.

This morning, I went WOT in under a minute or run time (bad, I know) and tossed the code. I came home read it and cleared it and took the XJ back to work. Long trip coming up next week and I need to get ready for it.

Any thoughts on the matter?

TIA,

Reed

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 1:22 pm

Try clearing the code first, and if it comes back again check the wiring harness and plug for damage or loose connection.

If it still won't go away then you probably need a new knock sensor.

It takes 24 failed tests within 30 seconds to set the code.

Each test is 100 milliseconds.

I believe we only have 1 knock sensor instead of 2 like the V-8's have, but double check that.

(P0332 is the same code, but for 2 sensor applications)

Steve

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 1:43 pm

killian96ss wrote:Try clearing the code first, and if it comes back again check the wiring harness and plug for damage or loose connection........................Steve

I cleared it and left if parked (never restarted the motor). Where is the harness at? This is a new one on me and I am still under a super extended warranty? Thanks for the input, Steve!

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 1:52 pm

I guess I should ask first if you know where the knock sensor is?

I pulled mine once on the CC to drain extra coolant out and I believe the sensor is screwed into the block on the passenger side (V-8's have one on each side of the block).

It is round (about 2" in diameter) and should have a 1 wire plug and harness coming out of the middle of the sensor.

I think the plug needs to be "squeezed" to release it.

Steve

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 2:29 pm

Okay, outside temp is plus 25° from this morning (70° and 95°). Went WOT at same place and stayed on the skinny. It stumbled bad prior to shift at just over 5K rpm. Traveled maybe .5 mile and hit it again from a stop. Stumbled but no where as badly. Repeated it a 3rd time at WOT and stumble was about the same as the second WOT attempt. I am thinking plugs since I still have the suspect NGK Iridiums with well under 15K on them. No codes were thrown.

I have new stock plugs here, as well as a new set of NGKs. Additional thoughts?

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 2:31 pm

It would be nice to put Autotap on and watch misfire as well as knock counts.
That is a tool you might watch for.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 2:53 pm

HenryJ wrote:It would be nice to put Autotap on and watch misfire as well as knock counts.
That is a tool you might watch for.

I am slowly learning that it is a good tool but, I am under the gun here. I am under warranty but, need to set the HPPIII back to stock and attempt a dealer fix if, I can't find out how to correct it here. I jinxed myself offering offering a lift to Blackhighrider on USAZR2.com to the Super Lift Park gathering yesterday....dayem ducks!

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 4:25 pm

killian96ss wrote:I guess I should ask first if you know where the knock sensor is? .......

I didn't know but, I do now thanks to your help. I am going to squeeze in a plug change to OEM AC Delcos and carry new NRK iridiums as a back up.

I have wasted to much time on the heep to prepare properly for the meet in AR with the S-10s.

What else would make me "stumble" (stumble as in getting out and thinking about cheap front valences}at WOT at 5k RPM with stock PCM setting?

I am almost open to anything after spending nearly $450 on the heep;s front end only to discover I need to repeat it on the driver's side.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 5:46 pm

Cap, rotor, fuel filter, fuel pump, bad gas, bad luck, etc

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Aug 07, 2007 12:00 am

HenryJ wrote:Cap, rotor, fuel filter, fuel pump, bad gas, bad luck, etc

I want to rule out the cap, rotor, fuel filter and bad gas since it has done this since all were were replaced and the rig has done this almost from the time that all were replaced. I just always got off the gas because I thought the shift points were messed up. I am only at 29K. The cap and rotor does need to be checked since I had them go to hades in under 6 months before. I received a new distributor since then. What are the normal WOT rpm shift points?

I am going to bypass the MSD 6AL this morning and see what that does.

Would lowering shifts and rev limiter with the HPPIII correct this?

Looks like a day of detailing the CC will be skipped to get the thing reliable for the trip.

Eight days and counting

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Aug 07, 2007 2:31 am

f9k9 wrote: What are the normal WOT rpm shift points?

Where does it stop pulling hard? Where does it get its fastest times?
These may be things you have to decide for yourself and your combination.

Mine works pretty well shifting at or before 5200 rpm. Past that there is lots of noise, but very little gain.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Aug 07, 2007 3:07 am

HenryJ wrote:Where does it stop pulling hard? Where does it get its fastest times?
These may be things you have to decide for yourself and your combination.................

I'll play around today and try to find out out. I would think that 4800 would be optimum.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Aug 08, 2007 3:44 pm

Okay, it was stumbling between 1-2 shifts at 40 mph and 5200 rpms. I set the 1-2 shifts with the HPPIII for -5 but, didn't have a chance to check it out since I want to replace the NGKs with OEM AC Delcos for now. They were here so, no cost to me. The NGKs looked fine but, can post photos if needed.

The first Taylor wire I pulled from the front driver's side separated and yes, I did not pull on the wire.

The problem I have now is that I one wire is bad. No Taylors are available locally. The Taylors are the best I have seen. No chance of a replacement set before I leave for the Hot Springs ZR2 meet. I need one wire or a readily available replacement set.

Go with OEMs? My original set are long gone. I exist in a storage challengend environment.

Bypassing the the MSD 6AL didn't change the stumbling at high rpms and that problem is shelved for now..

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed Aug 08, 2007 5:14 pm

Most of the auto parts stores around here sell single wires for emergency repairs like in your case or the damage wire can be fixed with a simple plug wire crimping tool that you use in your vise.

Have you cleaned the MAF and IAT sensors just to rule those out as possible problems?

I would also check the fuel pressure just to be sure that your pump isn't starting to die.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Aug 08, 2007 5:41 pm

How about your worst nightmare? Your cat plugging and a rollback trip home? j/k
Check the simple stuff first. We can all add plenty of things that might be wrong, but until you have checked the simple stuff there is no point.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Aug 08, 2007 5:41 pm

killian96ss wrote:......Have you cleaned the MAF and IAT sensors just to rule those out as possible problems? ................../quote]

Steve,

I have cleaned both. I appreciate the advice. With that said, would you replace a single wire or "repair one" before a 1500 mile round trip 7 days away?

No, you wouldn't! Am I wrong?

I think I will lean on a fellow club member that is in KY Krawlers with me and see what he comes up with. The dude is great on heep junk, maybe he has a suggestion. He is an asst manager at a local Advance and ever keeps Spicer u-joints stock piled for us that other employees can't find.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed Aug 08, 2007 5:46 pm

Reed, I'm sure you can find either the plug wire crimping tool or just a temporary spare wire until you can get a matching Taylor replacement wire.

Steve

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Aug 08, 2007 5:47 pm

HenryJ wrote:How about your worst nightmare? Your cat plugging and a rollback trip home? j/k......

Understood, Brule

All, I want right now is six plug wires. Cat plugged might be a thought but, for now a decent plug wire is all I need.

I have enough vacation time and tools where a plugged cat is not an option to be towed.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Aug 08, 2007 5:52 pm

killian96ss wrote:Reed, I'm sure you can find either the plug wire crimping tool or just a temporary spare wire until you can get a matching Taylor replacement wire.

Steve

Coming from a good dude from Napa, CA telling someone from London, KY. Steve, I really appreciate your help but, beam over here for a week and I would have to have you treated for culture shock

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Aug 08, 2007 5:54 pm

I'll work it out guys. Thanks for the suggestions.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed Aug 08, 2007 5:56 pm

f9k9 wrote:Coming from a good dude from Napa, CA telling someone from London, KY. Steve, I really appreciate your help but, beam over here for a week and I would have to have you treated for culture shock

I had a good culture shock when I purchased my SS in Iowa (I mean no offense to anyone who lives there

), but a whole lot of the people I saw looked like they were related, not to mention I felt like I was in a different country.

Ah, the simple life.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Aug 08, 2007 6:01 pm

If I needed a set of wires I would check the local Autozone / Shucks /Checker /Kragen/Pep Boys/etc. for a set of Taylors to match the ones I have. Keep in mind that the wires for a late ninties 5.7 V-8 will work too. You will have two extras.
That not being an option, I would get a premium set from NAPA. They will only be 7mm, but beggars can't be choosers , I guess.

Take a ear plugs , a hack saw and some mechanics wire along. Poor, or worse than usual gas mileage and pinging will be the tell tale signs. If that cat plugs , saw the pipe in two right in front of that pesky precat. Wire the pipe so it doesn't block the flow and drive it home uncapped.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Aug 08, 2007 6:03 pm

Favorite past time here is going to family reunions to get a date, Dude! Something wrong with that?

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Aug 08, 2007 6:13 pm

A family tree with few limbs makes good furniture?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Aug 09, 2007 2:34 am

HenryJ wrote:.................Take a ear plugs , a hack saw and some mechanics wire along. Poor, or worse than usual gas mileage and pinging will be the tell tale signs. If that cat plugs , saw the pipe in two right in front of that pesky precat. Wire the pipe so it doesn't block the flow and drive it home uncapped.

Excellent idea. I am still under an excellent extended warranty until '09 so if, it's the precat I'd lay over somewhere and have a dealer fix it. I'll have the 19.2 V sawzall with me anyway if, needed.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Aug 09, 2007 6:46 am

I searched all the parts stores in town and came up empty. I'll have new Taylors from Summit tomorrow.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 8:54 am

Okay, replaced NGK Iridiums with OEM plugs. The NGKs looked good, though. New Taylor wires, new cap and rotor. OEM ones were about a year old. I had a new distributer put on a little over a yr ago but, cap and rotor looked brand new.

I warmed it up then went wot and the 1-2 shift went nicely at 35 mph. I ran out of room for the 2-3 wot shift and was over 60 when I hit traffic. No light so, I dunno.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sun Aug 12, 2007 3:29 pm

When I had all those problems with the NGK's (random multiple misfires) I tried cleaning the NGK's very well to the point that they looked new, but when I put them back in my CC would start misfiring, however when I swapped the Delcos back in it ran smooth again.

I still have my doubts about using the NGK iridiums with the 4.3L.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Aug 12, 2007 3:33 pm

I gave up on them in favor of the , IMO , superior design that the Autolite Iridium has. The NGK Iridiums just did not last long enough to justify the price.

I still think iridium has advantages , especially where the MSD is part of the equation.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sun Aug 12, 2007 3:53 pm

HenryJ wrote:I still think iridium has advantages , especially where the MSD is part of the equation.

In theory the iridiums should be an excellent match with CD ignitions because iridium has a very high melting point, is super strong and hard, and carries electrical current very efficiently.

I still have the same NGK iridiums in my SS with an MSD digital 6 ignition and they are working great.

Whenever one of my vehicles is due for a plug change again I really want to try the Autolite iridiums since they combine the great qualities of iridium with the durability and long life of platinum..

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Aug 12, 2007 3:58 pm

killian96ss wrote:... I really want to try the Autolite iridiums since they combine the great qualities of iridium with the durability and long life of platinum.

The best part is that they are actually cheaper than other comparable plugs. There is something wrong with that

Under $6 each whereas I see other plugs well past the $10 mark.
Hope they don't figure that discrepancy out!

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Aug 12, 2007 6:52 pm

Well, I am gonna try 1300+ miles with OEM AC Delcs and giver them a chance The NGKs are riding as a "back up"! I'll follow the Ford ones though.