Emergency brake adjustment

[pukas84]

I have a 2001 4X4 crew cab. I was wondering how do you adjust the emergency break. I park on a hill and today I engaged the emergency break put the truck in neutral and it kept rolling down the hill. Thanks for your help.

[HenryJ]

You will need to remove the rear wheels, brake calipers, and rotor. The emergency brakes are the shoes inside the rotor hat. There is a small "turnbuckle" screw adjuster to spread them apart.

Now proper adjustment requires a tool for checking the air gap between the drum (rotor hat) and the shoes. It is like a large caliper. (GM# J 2117-A Drum to Brake Shoe Clearance Gauge) KD Tools also makes one. I think it was close to $50, but tools are never a bad investment. Heck that is not even an hours shop rate, and probably less than the minimum charge. If I recall correctly the gap should be around .014 inch to .025 inch.

OK, now that I have said that That is the procedure for a fullsize and our service manual just says: "adjust parking brake" , No specification, NOTHING

Sheez! Well you do need to disassemble to check the lining any way and see how things work as well as the location of the adjuster (between the contact points of the shoe). Clean it all up with some brake cleaner, or even hose it all off and blow dry if you can.

BTW, a recall for the fullsize just came out to replace a spring clip on the parking brake. This spring was weak and allowed the shoe to move prematurely wearing the lining resulting in the parking brake failing to hold on a hill. This is a NHTSA safety recall. Ours is almost identical and may not be far behind.

[pukas84]

If the manual doesn't say we need that tool, how do you know when to stop adjusting the brake? Thanks for your help, I'll try and take a look today or tomorrow.

[HenryJ]

Since they do not give us a specification, then I guess just adjust it up until you have brake. Too tight and you risk wearing the lining.

Inspect the lining first. Your brake may be gone, and that is why it is out of adjustment.

[JimmyDiamond]

The park brake on my Jimmy didn't work for crap either so when I had it into the dealer for something else I had them look at it. The shoes were fine but there was a groove in the drum. The resurfaced the drum and adjusted the tension and my park brake works awesome now. It holds fully only 1/3 down.

[SONOMA915]

In my Haynes manual it says to jack the vehicl up, push the parking brake cable down four to five clicks and adjust the cable (under drivers side, between the front and rear doors) until the wheels are dragging. Hope this helps out.

[HenryJ]

Brake Pads Replacement - Rear

Removal Procedure:
1. Inspect the fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir.
2. If the brake fluid level is midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, no brake fluid needs to be removed from the reservoir before proceeding.
3. If the brake fluid level is higher than midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, remove brake fluid to the midway point before proceeding.
4. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
5. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
6. Compress the rear caliper piston.
1. Install a large C-clamp over the top of the caliper housing and against the back of the outboard pad
2. Slowly tighten the C-clamp until the piston pushes into the caliper bore enough to slide the caliper of the rotor.
3. Remove the C-clamp from the caliper.

Notice

Support the brake caliper with heavy mechanic's wire, or equivalent, whenever it is separated from it's mount and the hydraulic flexible brake hose is still connected. Failure to support the caliper in this manner will cause the flexible brake hose to bear the weight of the caliper, which may cause damage to the brake hose and in turn may cause a brake fluid leak.
7. Remove the caliper from the mounting bracket and support the caliper with heavy mechanics wire or equivalent. DO NOT disconnect the hydraulic brake flexible hose from the caliper.
8. Remove the inboard lining from the caliper.
9. Remove the retainer spring from the inboard brake lining.
10. Remove the outboard lining from the caliper.

Don't forget to lube the caliper side pins prior to reassembly. They are known to sieze. You'll need brake caliper/slide lube, not regular grease, to withstand the higher temps.

Installation Procedure:
1. Verify that the wear sensors are at the trailing edge (downward) of the pad during forward wheel rotation.

Important

Before installing new brake pads, clean the outside surface of the caliper boot with denatured alcohol.
2. Install the outboard lining.
3. Install the retainer spring on the inboard brake lining.
4. Install inboard lining in the caliper.

Notice

Make sure the brake hose is not twisted or kinked after installation. Damage to the hose could result.
5. Install the caliper.
6. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. With the engine OFF, gradually apply the brake pedal to approximately 2/3 of its travel distance.
9. Slowly release the brake pedal.
10. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 7-8 until a firm brake pedal is obtained. This will properly seat the brake caliper pistons and brake pads.
11. Fill the brake master cylinder to the proper level.
12. Burnish the new brake pads.

Park Brake Shoe Replacement
Removal Procedure:

1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
2. Remove the wheel and the tire.
3. Remove the caliper.
4. Remove the rotor.
5. Remove the park brake shoe assembly by sliding the shoe towards the hold down spring until the shoe is disengaged from the spring.
6. Remove the shoe from the actuation mechanism.
7. Clean the debris and the dust from the park brake components using a clean towel.
8. Turn the adjustment screw to the fully home position in the notched adjustment nut, then back it off 1/4 turn.
9. Align the slots in both the adjusting screw and tappet to be parallel with the backing plate face.

Installation Procedure:
1. Install a new park brake shoe.
2. Position the shoe on the inboard side of the actuation mechanism.
3. Clip the shoe on the hold down spring.
4. Inspect the shoe assembly position. The shoe must be central on the backing plate and with both tips located in the slots.
5. Manually check the park brake for proper operation.
6. Adjust the park brake shoe.
7. Install the caliper.
8. Install the rotor.
9. Install the tire and wheel.
10. Lower the vehicle.

I follow the directions for the fullsize when adjusting the shoes:

Park Brake Shoe Adjustment
Tools Required
A Drum-to-Brake Shoe Clearance Gauge

Proper adjustment requires a tool for checking the air gap between the drum (rotor hat) and the shoes. It is like a large caliper. (GM# J 2117-A Drum to Brake Shoe Clearance Gauge) KD Tools also makes one. I think it was close to $50



Important

The park brake shoes must be adjusted before the park brake pedal is adjusted.
1. Set the tool so that it contacts the inside diameter of the rotor.
2. Position the tool over the shoe and the lining at the widest point.
3. Turn the adjuster nut until the lining just contacts the tool.
4. Repeat steps 1-3 for the opposite side.
5. The clearance between the park brake shoe and the rotor is 0.6604 mm (0.026 in).

The S-series manual is not specific about the adjustment procedure or clearances. Adapt if you must.

Be sure to set the parking brake periodically. It needs to be re-centered in the drum. This is especially important after some offroad abuse. Vibration and harsh bumps can cause the shoe to slip off center and wear prematurely.

Park Brake Adjustment

The park brake must be adjusted any time the park brake cables have been replaced or disconnected, or if under heavy foot pressure the pedal travel is less than half the pedal total travel. Before adjusting the park brake, check the condition of the service brakes. The rear brakes must be adjusted properly before adjusting the park brake.

1. Block the front wheels.
2. Raise the rear axle and support the rear axle with safety stands.
3. Loosen the equalizer nut.
4. Fully release the park brake pedal.
5. Tighten the equalizer nut until the rear wheels will not rotate without excessive force in a forward direction.
6. Loosen the equalizer nut until there is little or no drag when the rear wheels are rotated in a forward direction.
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Remove the blocks from the front wheels.

[Walt]

Thanks for the write-up Brule. This is on my to-do list after we get moved and settled in. Hopefully it won't be 20 degrees and raining on the day I decide to do it.

[purduecrew]

this is no joke. to adjust your parking brake, just go to a BIG empty parking lot and back up and stop a BUNCH of times, like 20 times. There is a finger in there that automatically spins the adjuster ONLY when stopping in reverse, im not kidding! thats why gm says there is no tool needed for regular maintenance, only when you do big things such as change the brakes or something.

[HenryJ]

this is no joke. to adjust your parking brake, just go to a BIG empty parking lot and back up and stop a BUNCH of times, like 20 times. There is a finger in there that automatically spins the adjuster ONLY when stopping in reverse, im not kidding! thats why gm says there is no tool needed for regular maintenance, only when you do big things such as change the brakes or something.

That will not work for our trucks. That applies to those with drum brakes and auto adjusters.
Our rear brakes do self adjust since they are hydraulic caliper disc brakes. the parking brake , however, is strictly mechanical and in now way tied to the service brakes.
The adjuster for the parking brake is not automatic. It must be done manually and is only accessible with the rotor/drum removed. The external adjustment is to the cable only.

Sorry to have to put a damper on your idea, but it will not work for our trucks.

[purduecrew]

whoops! you are right, I was thinkin of my buddies 02 extended cab. on that note, I found my foot!

[Horsehammerr]

I have no contact in my parking brake,even after well adjusted pedal cable. I will adjust the shoes, replace them if needed,but I need to know where to find an adjustment gauge. Please help, Thanks, Horsehammerr

[HenryJ]

...I need to know where to find an adjustment gauge.

Check on the KD tool rack of specialty tools locally first.

Mytoolstore.com - BRAKE RESETTING GAUGE #3377

[Horsehammerr]

Good to know someone who knows and pays attention to other than himself. Thanks for quick response Henry J !!

[HenryJ]

You will need to remove the rear wheels, brake calipers, and rotor. The emergency brakes are the shoes inside the rotor hat. There is a small "turnbuckle" screw adjuster to spread them apart.

Now proper adjustment requires a tool for checking the air gap between the drum (rotor hat) and the shoes. It is like a large caliper. (GM# J 2117-A Drum to Brake Shoe Clearance Gauge) KD Tools also makes one. I think it was close to $50, but tools are never a bad investment. Heck that is not even an hours shop rate, and probably less than the minimum charge. The gap should be .026 inch.

OK, now that I have said that That is the procedure for a fullsize and our service manual just says: "adjust parking brake" , No specification, NOTHING

Sheez! Well you do need to disassemble to check the lining any way and see how things work as well as the location of the adjuster (between the contact points of the shoe). Clean it all up with some brake cleaner, or even hose it all off and blow dry if you can.

BTW, a recall for the fullsize just came out to replace a spring clip on the parking brake. This spring was weak and allowed the shoe to move prematurely wearing the lining resulting in the parking brake failing to hold on a hill. This is a NHTSA safety recall. Ours is almost identical and may not be far behind.