New Oil Cooler Lines - Observation

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sun Dec 03, 2006 6:30 am

I just put Dorman oil filter to radiator cooler lines from LMC Truck on my 99 Bravada. I was skeptical when they said made in China on them and the fittings on the ends didn't look as nice a quality as the ones I took off. They came with all the seals and quick connect spring clips for only $29.99
After installing them, which was a snap

and they fit nicely. After that I pulled my crew in to wash it and checked the lines on it to see what the fittings look like on it. I found the lines to be identical to the Dorman except I couldn't find made in china printed on them. I'd feel better if the Dorman hoses were made in USA

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Dec 03, 2006 6:34 am

Are they two crimp lines or three?

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sun Dec 03, 2006 6:42 am

HenryJ wrote:Are they two crimp lines or three?

Three

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Dec 03, 2006 6:45 am

Well at least they match the revised lines that were installed.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sun Dec 03, 2006 6:52 am

HenryJ wrote:Well at least they match the revised lines that were installed.

If I need to change the engine to filter lines I may buy them off Ebay a few venders say they have GM lines.

jeffd · Post by **jeffd** » Tue Dec 19, 2006 11:17 am

I took the oil cooler lines off and cut the tubes. I took them to a truck repair place or a tractor dealership and had hydraulic hose made for them. GM uses the cheap AC crimp hoses. By installing the hydraulic hose in place of this you should only have to replace these once. I have done this on the 99 blazer, 95 caprice and 96 Impala SS. It looks good and lasts longer. Total cost is around $35 for each vehicle.

Wrangler · Post by **Wrangler** » Sat Dec 30, 2006 3:28 am

Anyone find some after market lines that are better? I had these blow apart on my old sonoma I kept driving thinking it was just a bad gauge or sending unit till iI heard the knocking.

One pair looks like they were just replaced recently on my truck but the other pair, thankfully the easier of the two to replace, is showing signs of needing replaced.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Dec 30, 2006 6:32 am

The triple crimp lines seem to be doing fine.

Leaking oil lines

HenryJ wrote:As I understand it , the problem with the leaking lines was:

The tool they used was set at too high a pressure and over crimped the hose. When enough of the problems arose they had the lines supplied by a different company which uses a different crimp.

The old lines had a double crimp and the new style have a triple

RockAuto lines:
DORMAN Part # 625100 {OE Solutions}
Eng Oil Cooler Pipe; 4WD $21.79

DORMAN Part # 625001 {OE Solutions}
Eng Oil Filter Hose; 4WD $35.99

Wrangler · Post by **Wrangler** » Sat Dec 30, 2006 11:43 am

the one that is leaking is a triple crimp. Damn those prices are dirt cheap. I paid between $70 and a $100 for the one I replaced on my Sonoma from the dealship a few years ago. Of course I had alittle choice since I needed the line yesterday when it already blew apart. LOL

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 9:30 am

HenryJ wrote:The triple crimp lines seem to be doing fine.

Leaking oil lines
HenryJ wrote:As I understand it , the problem with the leaking lines was:

The tool they used was set at too high a pressure and over crimped the hose. When enough of the problems arose they had the lines supplied by a different company which uses a different crimp.

The old lines had a double crimp and the new style have a triple
RockAuto lines:
DORMAN Part # 625100 {OE Solutions}
Eng Oil Cooler Pipe; 4WD $21.79

DORMAN Part # 625001 {OE Solutions}
Eng Oil Filter Hose; 4WD $35.99

Thanks for the link. Just order replacements for the leaky lines in Mrs Barch '01 Blazer.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 4:26 pm

barch97 wrote:Thanks for the link. Just order replacements for the leaky lines in Mrs Barch '01 Blazer.

Be sure to give us your review of them when they arrive. I am curious as to the crimp and quality.

Also a "blow-by-blow" on the difficulty of replacement and any tips would be great!

I will anxiously await your impressions

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 6:15 pm

HenryJ wrote:
barch97 wrote:Thanks for the link. Just order replacements for the leaky lines in Mrs Barch '01 Blazer.
Be sure to give us your review of them when they arrive. I am curious as to the crimp and quality.

Also a "blow-by-blow" on the difficulty of replacement and any tips would be great!

I will anxiously await your impressions

I used the Dorman Hoses from LMC Truck from the filter to the Rad on my Bravada...worked good.
I still need to do the ones from the engine to the filter, I've heard some guys having trouble getting them in. I have a 27,000 mile steering gear I will be installing when I do the hoses, I'll see if having the steering gear out of the way makes it a breeze

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Tue Mar 06, 2007 12:48 pm

HenryJ wrote:
barch97 wrote:Thanks for the link. Just order replacements for the leaky lines in Mrs Barch '01 Blazer.
Be sure to give us your review of them when they arrive. I am curious as to the crimp and quality.

Also a "blow-by-blow" on the difficulty of replacement and any tips would be great!

I will anxiously await your impressions

Will do my best.

BTW... if anyone's got a GM shop guide step by step on this (I'm lookin' at you, Hoff), I'd sure appreciate the opportunity to read through the procedure before I get under the truck. And, if there's anything else I should know like specialty calibration tools or torque specs, NOW is the time to post... not the day after.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Mar 06, 2007 3:09 pm

Oh man, I am working on my own junk.

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 5:40 am

Okay, teh replacement has begun...

I found this remarkably non specific set of instructions pretty good at listing the obvious.

but, at least pointed me in the right direction.

Here's a photo of the current leaky lines:

I guess I should have snapped the pic before wiping off the excess oil to be more dramatic but trust me... they were LEAKING. Note the super tight double crimp as described previously by henryj.

and here the replacements:

note the triple crimp is not quite so super tight as the originals.

So far this looks pretty straight forward. Just back out a hex bolt at the filter assembly for each pair of lines. The radiator ends appear to be held in place with spring clips as shown and new clips were provided with the replacement lines.

The only area of unsurety so far is the rear end of the lines that connect to the engine up along side the oil pan. Do I pull the two hex bolts shown and drop that disc shaped unit to remove/replace the lines? or is there another hex bolt in the side (like the ones up front at the filter assembly)? and if the latter is the case, how do I get to it? I guess I'll have to pull that disc unit and have a look.

I'm going out to tackle the "obvious" parts and will return to read any responses before getting into that last part...

Thanks in advance.

oh and I almost forgot, should there be any kind of gasget at each of these connections? No replacements were provided. Resuse existing if so equipped? or use squeeze tube gasget jelly stuff?

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 6:22 am

Well... I've hit my first obstacle. I can't seem to maneuver the cooler lines out between the oil filter assembly and the fan shroud. Of course my first instinct was to pull the oil filter assembly down and provide easier access to the other pair of lines.

I took off the three hex nuts that appear to hold the oil filter assembly in place but this doesn't release the assembly from the underside of the truck. Is there another bolt, clip, nut, etc that I'm missing? Perhaps that 5/16ish square key hole marked "HOT"? I suspect that that is just to drain fluid at the filter but is it possible that that bolt is threaded all the way through the assembly and up into the frame?

Or am I just being wimpy and not putting enough muscle behind my effort to drop the filter assembly? I'm a little concerned about breaking it if I pull, twist or,hit it too hard.

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 6:27 am

oh and there doesn't appear to have ever been any replaceable gasket where the cooler lines connect to the filter assembly. Just really really smooth metal to metal with opposing ring shapes molded into the flange and filter assembly. I'll wipe 'em down good before installing new lines but it doesn't appear to require any additional gasket material.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 6:57 am

I use a long extension , or whole assortment of extensions to get to the bolt that attaches the lines to the engine block filter adapter. It really is a PITA. The bolt is right between the lines that attaches it to the engine adapter. A 1/4" drive set , universal and a 18" extension helps.
You will need seals. They look very similar to the "Hotrod super secret drain plug gaskets". A rubber captured steel gasket. I am somewhat surprised they did not come with the lines. Sounds familiar though. Do not try RTV. It will not hold under oil pressure.

It has been a very long time since I have preformed this work. I don't recall pulling the fan shroud, but I may have. Some have reported unbolting the motor mount and lifting the side of the engine. I am pretty sure I did not go that far.
It was pretty difficult on vehicle without a bodylift for extra clearance, but still do-able.

Here are the directions-

GM data wrote:Remote Oil Filter Adapter Pipe Replacement
Removal Procedure
1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the steering linkage shield.
3. Position a suitable drain pan for the engine oil to drain into when the hoses are removed.
4. Remove the remote oil filter inlet and outlet hose clip bolt from the oil pan.
5. Remove the bolt attaching the remote oil filter inlet and outlet hoses to the remote oil filter adapter.
6. Remove the remote oil filter inlet and outlet hoses and the seals from the remote oil filter adapter.
7. Discard the remote oil filter inlet and outlet hose seals.
8. Remove the bolt attaching the remote oil filter inlet and outlet hoses to the oil filter pipe adapter.
9. Remove the remote oil filter inlet and outlet hoses.
10. Remove and discard the remote oil filter inlet and outlet hose seals.
11. Clean and inspect the remote engine oil filter inlet and outlet hoses and fittings.

Installation Procedure
1. Install NEW seals on both ends of the remote oil filter inlet and outlet hoses.
2. Install the remote oil filter inlet and outlet hoses and the bolt to the oil filter pipe adapter.
Tighten the remote oil filter inlet and outlet hose to remote oil filter pipe adapter bolt to 35 N·m (26 lb ft).
3. Install the remote oil filter inlet and outlet hoses to the remote oil filter adapter.
Tighten the remote oil filter inlet and outlet hose to the remote oil filter adapter bolt to 35 N·m (26 lb ft).
4. Install the remote oil filter inlet and outlet clip and bolt to the oil pan.
Tighten the remote oil filter inlet and outlet hose clip bolt to 10 N·m (89 lb in).
5. Install the steering linkage shield.
6. Lower the vehicle.
7. Operate the engine and check for leaks.
8. Inspect the engine oil level and fill to the proper level.

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 7:07 am

ah... I see. Thanks.

2. Remove the steering linkage shield.

Is this the latitudinal metal cross member about 5-6 inches wide that bolts up to frame on either side? I could see where taking that out might be necessary to access the clip that supports the filter to pan lines about mid way back. Although it doesn't appear to make getting the cooler lines out any easier.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 7:16 am

Actually I am pretty sure that shield they refer to is the front shield on our trucks. The one with the oil filter access door.

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 7:34 am

duh... yeah, that came off WAY easy

and sure makes EVERYTHING more accessible

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 7:47 am

the key to getting the cooler line out/in seems to be moving this out of the way.

I'm not sure what it is but it's in the way. It's got a rubber hose connected to the back side, maybe part of heater system? Anyway, it's two 13mm bolts to the frame to remove and you've got plenty of room to pull the lines through. Note though that there's a airbag trigger thing on the frame blocking a ratchet from getting on the upper of the two bolts. I disconnected the negative battery cable before attacking this bolt with a crescent wrench just to be on the safe side.

I was mistaken about the new gaskets. The replacements did come with them. They were in place on the ends of the lines not in a separate baggie like the spring clips. Probably why I missed them.

Also the radiator ends of the cooler lines are a little different on the replacements. they seem to fit okay but the originals fit better and seem more substantial.

old end:

new end:

Maybe not clear in the photos but the old end had a groove to receive the spring clip where the new one has only a rib.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 7:59 am

barch97 wrote:the key to getting the cooler line out/in seems to be moving this out of the way.

EDIT: That pump with attached hoses is the emissions system air pump. The box behind it is the air bag inertial sensor. Basically a weight attached to a diaphragm used to activate the supplemental restraint system.

If you use a hammer on it and hear a bang and see a poof of powder, there may some work to be done inside afterward

Another reason why it is recommended to disable the system while working on the truck. You are not in danger here, and it really is not likely that you could inadvertently set the system off. Pulling a battery cable prior to working on the truck is not a bad habit to get into though. Do I do it every time? No

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 9:38 am

HenryJ wrote:
barch97 wrote:the key to getting the cooler line out/in seems to be moving this out of the way.
That is the air bag inertial sensor. Basically a weight attached to a diaphragm used to activate the supplemental restraint system.

Isn't the thing circled in the picture above the secondary air injection pump?

The air lines leading away from it connect to the exhaust manifolds.

Steve

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 9:53 am

killian96ss wrote:
HenryJ wrote:
barch97 wrote:the key to getting the cooler line out/in seems to be moving this out of the way.
That is the air bag inertial sensor. Basically a weight attached to a diaphragm used to activate the supplemental restraint system.
Isn't the thing circled in the picture above the secondary air injection pump? The air lines leading away from it connect to the exhaust manifolds.

Steve

That's what that is, the pump. on 2001's back
I'm still waiting to see if Barch thinks having the steering gear out will help when I do the engine to filter lines in my Bravada. I tried to take the filter bracket off just like he did but couldn't budge it, when I did the easy lines. I also had the same observation of the fittings that go in the radiator.
From my first post on this topic

and the fittings on the ends didn't look as nice a quality as the ones I took off.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 10:07 am

killian96ss wrote:Isn't the thing circled in the picture above the secondary air injection pump? The air lines leading away from it connect to the exhaust manifolds.

Yes it is

I guess I have to wait (dial-up) for the picture to load before posting

Probably should have read it thoroughly too. The hoses attached are a give away too.

I thought he removed the square box near the oil filter bracket.

My mistake. I will wait for the picture next time, sorry for the confusion

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 12:37 pm

Well, I was able to get the oil line flange loose at each end and get the screw out that holds the retainer strap but then I couldn't for the life of me pull the old line out in either direction. After much twisting and prying I realized that I'd never be able to get the new line in even if I did manage to bend or break the old one and get it out.

So, I gave up. Reconnected both ends, put on a new oil filter and filled the oil and then drove it over and dropped it off at a friend's shop. He's much better equipped if a motor mount has to be unbolted or steering gear removed. Hopefully he'll be able to get to early next week.

Removing the filter assembly would have been of very little help as it's bolted to a metal plate that's a little larger above. So, even if I could have gotten it off, that plate would still been in the way.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sun Mar 25, 2007 3:00 am

What up with the line replacement, Barch?

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Sun Mar 25, 2007 3:44 am

barch97 wrote:So, I gave up. Reconnected both ends, put on a new oil filter and filled the oil and then drove it over and dropped it off at a friend's shop. He's much better equipped if a motor mount has to be unbolted or steering gear removed. Hopefully he'll be able to get to early next week.

Done

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sun Mar 25, 2007 5:09 am

Any info on how he got the lines in? Tricks he would disclose?

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Sun Mar 25, 2007 5:36 am

No, he said he "has a special tool".