Radio Wiring Guide / CD Player problem *solved*
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Radio Wiring Guide / CD Player problem *solved*
i need the wiring diagram to the crew cab 2002 s-10. its the single cd RDS system...
I need the diagram fast ifne possible.......
thanx everybody for replying on my other threads!
(i tried searching through other threads i figure sumbody would have already asked this question....)
Edited Title and moved to stock electrical-HJ
I need the diagram fast ifne possible.......
thanx everybody for replying on my other threads!
(i tried searching through other threads i figure sumbody would have already asked this question....)
Edited Title and moved to stock electrical-HJ
- HenryJ
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Can you narrow it down a little to what you are doing and what you need?
If I have some more information and an idea of what you are trying to do, perhaps I can help.
If I have some more information and an idea of what you are trying to do, perhaps I can help.
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That helps!
Radio (w/CTF)
GRY - Class 2 Serial Data (IPC)
DK GRN - RAP Fuse Supply Voltage (Utility Only)
DK BLU - Steering Wheel Controls Signal (Utility Only)
TAN - Left Front Speaker Output (+)
GRY - Left Front Speaker Output (-)
LT BLU - Right Rear Speaker Output (-)
DK BLU - Right Rear Speaker Output (+)
BLK - Ground
ORN - Battery Positive Voltage
DK GRN - RAP Fuse Supply Voltage
GRY - Instrument Panel Lamp Fuse Supply Voltage - 2
BLK - Ground
BRN - Left Rear Speaker Output (+)
YEL - Left Rear Speaker Output (-)
DK GRN - Right Front Speaker Output (-)
LT GRN - Right Front Speaker Output (+)
PPL/WHT - LED Dimming Signal
Radio Connector C1 (w/o CTF)
GRY - Left Front Speaker Output (-) (w/o Amp)
TAN - Left Front Low Level Audio Signal (+) (w/ Amp)
TAN - Left Front Speaker Output (+) (w/o Amp)
ORN/BLK - Front Low Level Audio Signal (-) (w/ Amp)
DK GRN - Right Front Speaker Output (-) (w/o Amp)
LT GRN - Right Front Low Level Audio Signal (+) (w/ Amp)
LT GRN - Right Front Speaker Output (+) (w/o Amp)
BARE - Drain Wire (w/ Amp)
BLK - Ground
PPL/WHT - LED Dimming Signal
GRY - Instrument Panel Lamp Fuse Supply Voltage - 2
DK GRN - Amplifier Control
DK GRN - RAP Fuse Supply Voltage
ORN - Battery Positive Voltage
Radio Connector C2 (w/o CTF)
DK BLU - Steering Wheel Controls Signal (Utility)
DK GRN - Vehicle Speed Signal
LT BLU - Right Rear Speaker Output (-) (w/o Amp)
DK BLU - Right Rear Low Level Audio Signal (+) (w/ Amp)
DK BLU - Right Rear Speaker Output (+) (w/o Amp)
DK GRN/WHT - Rear Low Level Audio Signal (-) (w/ Amp)
YEL - Left Rear Speaker Output (-) (w/o Amp)
BRN - Left Rear Low Level Audio Signal (+) (w/ Amp)
BRN - Left Rear Speaker Output (+) (w/o Amp)
BARE - Drain Wire (w/ Amp)
Radio Connector C3 (w/Remote Playback Device)
LT BLU - Radio On Signal
GRY - Instrument Panel Lamp Fuse Supply Voltage - 2
BARE - Drain Wire
DK GRN/WHT - Remote Playback Device Right Audio Signal
BRN/WHT - Remote Playback Device Left Audio Signal
BLK/ORN - Remote Playback Device Audio Common Signal
BLK - Ground
DK GRN - Entertainment and Comfort Serial Data
ORN - Battery Positive Voltage
Need more?
Radio (w/CTF)
GRY - Class 2 Serial Data (IPC)
DK GRN - RAP Fuse Supply Voltage (Utility Only)
DK BLU - Steering Wheel Controls Signal (Utility Only)
TAN - Left Front Speaker Output (+)
GRY - Left Front Speaker Output (-)
LT BLU - Right Rear Speaker Output (-)
DK BLU - Right Rear Speaker Output (+)
BLK - Ground
ORN - Battery Positive Voltage
DK GRN - RAP Fuse Supply Voltage
GRY - Instrument Panel Lamp Fuse Supply Voltage - 2
BLK - Ground
BRN - Left Rear Speaker Output (+)
YEL - Left Rear Speaker Output (-)
DK GRN - Right Front Speaker Output (-)
LT GRN - Right Front Speaker Output (+)
PPL/WHT - LED Dimming Signal
Radio Connector C1 (w/o CTF)
GRY - Left Front Speaker Output (-) (w/o Amp)
TAN - Left Front Low Level Audio Signal (+) (w/ Amp)
TAN - Left Front Speaker Output (+) (w/o Amp)
ORN/BLK - Front Low Level Audio Signal (-) (w/ Amp)
DK GRN - Right Front Speaker Output (-) (w/o Amp)
LT GRN - Right Front Low Level Audio Signal (+) (w/ Amp)
LT GRN - Right Front Speaker Output (+) (w/o Amp)
BARE - Drain Wire (w/ Amp)
BLK - Ground
PPL/WHT - LED Dimming Signal
GRY - Instrument Panel Lamp Fuse Supply Voltage - 2
DK GRN - Amplifier Control
DK GRN - RAP Fuse Supply Voltage
ORN - Battery Positive Voltage
Radio Connector C2 (w/o CTF)
DK BLU - Steering Wheel Controls Signal (Utility)
DK GRN - Vehicle Speed Signal
LT BLU - Right Rear Speaker Output (-) (w/o Amp)
DK BLU - Right Rear Low Level Audio Signal (+) (w/ Amp)
DK BLU - Right Rear Speaker Output (+) (w/o Amp)
DK GRN/WHT - Rear Low Level Audio Signal (-) (w/ Amp)
YEL - Left Rear Speaker Output (-) (w/o Amp)
BRN - Left Rear Low Level Audio Signal (+) (w/ Amp)
BRN - Left Rear Speaker Output (+) (w/o Amp)
BARE - Drain Wire (w/ Amp)
Radio Connector C3 (w/Remote Playback Device)
LT BLU - Radio On Signal
GRY - Instrument Panel Lamp Fuse Supply Voltage - 2
BARE - Drain Wire
DK GRN/WHT - Remote Playback Device Right Audio Signal
BRN/WHT - Remote Playback Device Left Audio Signal
BLK/ORN - Remote Playback Device Audio Common Signal
BLK - Ground
DK GRN - Entertainment and Comfort Serial Data
ORN - Battery Positive Voltage
Need more?
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
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- HenryJ
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I am not an audiophile, so I don't know enough about exactly what is what.
The first one I listed above is a large single connector.
The next two are halves of what makes up a similar looking connector. Two pieces to make one connection.
The third is for the remote cassette player. I added not only to confuse you , but in case someone else is wondering.
I would say if you connector is one large piece, use the first listed. If it has two halves the top is the next listed and the second is the bottom half.
Fortunately with a multimeter and the list posted above you should be able to figure things out. The connectors, while different, use the same color coded wires from what I see. Orange wire should have battery voltage...Gray wire with voltage when lamps are on is the dimmer light wire...etc.
Process of elimination and deduction my dear Sherlock. Good Luck.
The first one I listed above is a large single connector.
The next two are halves of what makes up a similar looking connector. Two pieces to make one connection.
The third is for the remote cassette player. I added not only to confuse you , but in case someone else is wondering.
I would say if you connector is one large piece, use the first listed. If it has two halves the top is the next listed and the second is the bottom half.
Fortunately with a multimeter and the list posted above you should be able to figure things out. The connectors, while different, use the same color coded wires from what I see. Orange wire should have battery voltage...Gray wire with voltage when lamps are on is the dimmer light wire...etc.
Process of elimination and deduction my dear Sherlock. Good Luck.
Last edited by HenryJ on Sat Mar 03, 2007 1:57 pm, edited 2 times in total.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
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- HenryJ
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If you want to fix the stock CD player, stop by the salvage yard and grab one that works. Just swap the CD player part of it and you will not have to unlock the radio. I have made the swap on a couple. The newest being a 2004 fullsize.
The dealer is doing a refurb exchange on them too. $75-$150 will buy a new unit. It seems that there is a small plastic part that breaks. The players with problems fail to eject the disc. They probably saved $0.10 having that piece made in China.
The new piece is being made in the USA and seems to be holding up better, or so I am told.
The dealer is doing a refurb exchange on them too. $75-$150 will buy a new unit. It seems that there is a small plastic part that breaks. The players with problems fail to eject the disc. They probably saved $0.10 having that piece made in China.
The new piece is being made in the USA and seems to be holding up better, or so I am told.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
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My CD changer quit once and dealership replaced it under extended warranty for something like $400. A CC member here told me to pull the fuses for 10 minutes. Well, I was leary of that advise because the battery had been unhooked previously and it still didn't work. I had the same thing happen again and I only located one fuse but, it worked after being pulled for 10 minutes.
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If you're installing an aftermarket CD/Stereo...isn't there an aftermarket plugin adapter that enables you to retain the stock wiring so you can simply plug in the new unit?
That's how it was on my '96.
Eventually, I'm going to want to install an aftermarket deck in my new 03 truck so I can have MP3 so I'll need to know soon myself.
That's how it was on my '96.
Eventually, I'm going to want to install an aftermarket deck in my new 03 truck so I can have MP3 so I'll need to know soon myself.