I finally got the funds to start the Lincoln mark VIII e-fan install on my 2003 Blazer ZR2, i will be using a delta current controller with the included thermostat sensor. I need to place the sensor at the radiator output side(coolant going from the rad back to the engine). I'm sure that would be at the top of the rad passenger side but i need help to verify that is the correct location.
Thanks for you help.
Gonzzo.
O.K, dumb radiator question if you dont mind...
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The sensor goes on the radiator OUTPUT? Sure does not make alot, or any, sense to me, there must be another sensor that turns the fans on.
The radiator output is the hose on the bottom passenger side.
The radiator output is the hose on the bottom passenger side.
[size=75][b]1991 GMC Sonoma Extended Cb[/b] - 4.3L Automatic, 2" BL, 31" BFG's.
[b]1992 Chevy T-10 Reg Cab[/b] - 4.3L 5spd, 3" Bl, 31" Mud Tires. Hooker long tube headers and true duals.
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[b]1992 Chevy T-10 Reg Cab[/b] - 4.3L 5spd, 3" Bl, 31" Mud Tires. Hooker long tube headers and true duals.
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Makes sense if you want to be sure that the water temp going back into the engine is at the proper temperature, if you put it on the inlet side then temp readings might not be as wanted...if you think about it it really may not matter but you might get better efficiency with the outlet temps to control.Snoman002 wrote:The sensor goes on the radiator OUTPUT? Sure does not make alot, or any, sense to me, there must be another sensor that turns the fans on.
When I plan to install my 3800 buick fans on my '00 Blazer I will be using a temp sensor located in the spot on the intake under the thermostat and then wiring up to the computer to control the fans...
http://www.gmtruckforum.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1360
the method is in the link above...
Yes, but since the radiator cools so much more when it's cold out then that means if the truck is at operating temp when it's 90 out then the truck could be massivly overheating when it's 25 out because the output temp will still be too low to turn the fans on.20Blazer00 wrote:Makes sense if you want to be sure that the water temp going back into the engine is at the proper temperature, if you put it on the inlet side then temp readings might not be as wanted...if you think about it it really may not matter but you might get better efficiency with the outlet temps to control.Snoman002 wrote:The sensor goes on the radiator OUTPUT? Sure does not make alot, or any, sense to me, there must be another sensor that turns the fans on.
When I plan to install my 3800 buick fans on my '00 Blazer I will be using a temp sensor located in the spot on the intake under the thermostat and then wiring up to the computer to control the fans...
http://www.gmtruckforum.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1360
the method is in the link above...
[size=75][b]1991 GMC Sonoma Extended Cb[/b] - 4.3L Automatic, 2" BL, 31" BFG's.
[b]1992 Chevy T-10 Reg Cab[/b] - 4.3L 5spd, 3" Bl, 31" Mud Tires. Hooker long tube headers and true duals.
[b]1999 Oldsmobile Bravada[/b] - Wifes truck, all stock.[/size]
[b]1992 Chevy T-10 Reg Cab[/b] - 4.3L 5spd, 3" Bl, 31" Mud Tires. Hooker long tube headers and true duals.
[b]1999 Oldsmobile Bravada[/b] - Wifes truck, all stock.[/size]
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I usually just override the e-fans when it is under 30°. There is no issue in cold weather unless mine is parked and idling for extended periods of time. I like the feature of a faster warm up by totally turning them off.Snoman002 wrote:..........Yes, but since the radiator cools so much more when it's cold out then that means if the truck is at operating temp when it's 90 out then the truck could be massivly overheating when it's 25 out because the output temp will still be too low to turn the fans on.
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Locating the sensor near the radiator outlet would not be the best choice.
Locating the sensor as close to the thermostat is the best choice.
The radiator needs no cooling from the fans until additional heat transfer is required. Same goes for the coolant in the engine.
Think of it this way. Coolant in engine heats. Some heat is dissipated through contact with the outer exposed surfaces. Once the coolant that is inside the engine exceeds operating temperature can can not transfer enough heat it needs to be sent to the radiator to transfer the heat. Once in the radiator the same process repeats. If the core can transfer heat to the air there is no need for further airflow. When airflow is insufficient the fans need to engage to aid in transferring heat.
Now will it work to put the sensor at the radiator outlet? Sure. But, you will have a shock absorber between it and the thermostat that is controlling the temperature of the coolant. Having both working closely together is a better idea. Reactions to quickly introduced heat can be quickly controlled. Fans engaging too quickly is not a problem. Engaging too late can be a real problem.
Another issue may be the operating temperature range of the sensor. Many sensors may not go low enough to react effectively when mounted in a relatively cool portion of the radiator. Heat rises and the upper half can be significantly warmer.
I have had sensors that were set at their lowest setting and still did not engage the fans soon enough to match the thermostat. Adding a piece of foam in front to block airflow for the sensor seemed to help. I can not imagine trying to make it work at the outlet.
Mount it where you wish if it works for you. Personally I would suggest as near to the thermostat as is practical. It is best for them to work closely together.
Locating the sensor as close to the thermostat is the best choice.
The radiator needs no cooling from the fans until additional heat transfer is required. Same goes for the coolant in the engine.
Think of it this way. Coolant in engine heats. Some heat is dissipated through contact with the outer exposed surfaces. Once the coolant that is inside the engine exceeds operating temperature can can not transfer enough heat it needs to be sent to the radiator to transfer the heat. Once in the radiator the same process repeats. If the core can transfer heat to the air there is no need for further airflow. When airflow is insufficient the fans need to engage to aid in transferring heat.
Now will it work to put the sensor at the radiator outlet? Sure. But, you will have a shock absorber between it and the thermostat that is controlling the temperature of the coolant. Having both working closely together is a better idea. Reactions to quickly introduced heat can be quickly controlled. Fans engaging too quickly is not a problem. Engaging too late can be a real problem.
Another issue may be the operating temperature range of the sensor. Many sensors may not go low enough to react effectively when mounted in a relatively cool portion of the radiator. Heat rises and the upper half can be significantly warmer.
I have had sensors that were set at their lowest setting and still did not engage the fans soon enough to match the thermostat. Adding a piece of foam in front to block airflow for the sensor seemed to help. I can not imagine trying to make it work at the outlet.
Mount it where you wish if it works for you. Personally I would suggest as near to the thermostat as is practical. It is best for them to work closely together.
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