Anyone have interest in a long arm IFS for our trucks??

[purduecrew]

I found a guy who has done the research and would be willing to do a kit for us:

http://www.dixonbrosracing.com

These guys built this kit here for a Ford Ranger.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/projectbuild ... uspension/

Here was the email I recieved this morning from him. Granted we havent talked any about it, so the conversation would probably take many twists and turns....

"Brandon, I have looked into doing an S-10 4wd kit before, but theres not much demand for them. I think you would be looking at a custom set up. From what I saw on the truck, it could be done. I would use the factory knuckle and basically build custom upper and lower arms with an extended axle shaft and probably a new inner CV joint. Let me know if you have any questions."

The guy was really polite, and very quick to respond, so he sounds like a good person and someone who would be knowledgable as well. I figured if 10 people would commit, he would probably do something, that would result in about 3-4 inches of dependable front end lift with no cutting, or superlift needed. Not to mention some bad ass front end travel

Thoughts, opinions? Please respond. P.S. Im trying to get a ballpark price.

[killian96ss]

I'm trying to get a ballpark price.

This would probably help people determine whether or not they would be interested. I'm sure everyone will agree that this is a cool idea, but if this upgrade costs like $10k then I'm sure people would lose interest.

Steve

[WVHogRider]

I'm trying to get a ballpark price.

This would probably help people determine whether or not they would be interested. I'm sure everyone will agree that this is a cool idea, but if this upgrade costs like $10k then I'm sure people would lose interest.

Steve

Exactly. I would be interested depending on the $.

[Walt]

Same here. The Ranger kits on their site run between $2500 and $3000, which is way out of my range... While interested, if an S-10 kit would be close to those prices, I'd have to pass it up.

[kwalsh]

yup, it's all about the price tag.

[BobbleSmitty]

Same. It depends on the price!

[purduecrew]

haha well everyone get a glass of water...this is a big pill:

"On something like this, I usually will design a kit if I have someone that wants to pay up front and leave their truck for a while. The process could take up to a few months. As for cost, figure around $3000 for the suspension, $1200pr for Coilovers, and $450pr for Bumpstops with mounts. "

So my wonderful mental math tells me thats 4650 bucks right there .

But I replied back asking about a not so "racy" package, thinking all of us would be enamored by just running longer control arms on our stock torsion bars and getting extended shafts. His reply to this was:

"Keeping the torsion bars would actually add cost to the kit. If you want a highend suspension, you are going to need a high quality race shock. It doesn't add a lot of cost to go ahead and add a coil spring. The longer arms would require a higher rate torsion bar, that would be increased cost, also the torsion adjuster hardware might not hold up to the higher spring rates. Sounds like you are more into a std lift kit, than a long travel type set-up.

I've been using 930 cvs lately. They get a good angle, but axle plunge is limited. A set of custom front axles are going to be in the $800-1000 range..."

What I gather from this is that this guy maybe doesnt believe in anything other than racing...I dont see any need for new torsion bars, we just want a lift! And secondly, I would almost be willing to keep stock arms, and pay 800 bucks for some bulletproof halfshafts, that I could crank the torsion bars up another 2 inches or so.


Any more thoughts?

[purduecrew]

and on that note, can our cv shafts be disassembled?? In other words can we replace crappy stock joints with these HP 930 or 934 joints such as seen here? They even have kits with boots, rings, grease, etc, with the joints. 85 bucks a joint.

http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/bug ... %20IRS.htm

And where is cknaffle. I hear that his welding skills are supposed to be the shiznit. Why cant he do a run on some control arms, and we get someone to make some crazy cv shafts, and fix this crappy ifs problem once and for all!

[killian96ss]

I would almost be willing to keep stock arms, and pay 800 bucks for some bulletproof halfshafts, that I could crank the torsion bars up another 2 inches or so.

This would work pretty good to a certain point, however when you crank the t-bars real far you are also changing the lower control arm angle which makes the ride a little harsh and might also make alignments more difficult. This upgrade still won't make the IFS any stronger since the front diff is where the real weakness is.

If I could have it my way I would like to see a kit that uses the full size 8.2" front diff (ours is 7.25"), stronger CV axles that allow more travel, and new upper and lower control arms with polyurethane bushings.

I like the IFS design a lot better than SFA, however most stock IFS systems lack the strength and durability to be worthy of regular off road punishment.

Steve

[purduecrew]

the full size differential sounds like a lot of work when you can just get a cast iron zr2 diff. i dont see how in MY case, i could break that, or nicely crafted half shafts...

[killian96ss]

the full size differential sounds like a lot of work when you can just get a cast iron zr2 diff. i dont see how in MY case, i could break that, or nicely crafted half shafts...

The iron ZR2 front diff is heavier, hard to find and isn't much stronger than the aluminum front diff that we have since both use the same 7.25" ring and pinion. In other words the iron front diff really isn't much of an upgrade, however the much stronger 8.2" full size front diff would be a lot better.

It would be nice to have upgraded CV axles that can handle more travel so we could crank the t-bars another 1-2". I would definitely be interested in purchasing some if someone actually made them.

Steve

[purduecrew]

ok, so does ANYONE know anyone who makes, or has experience with anyone that makes CV shafts, can you post up? I have access to a multi million dollar machine shop here at the Purdue engineering school, and I dont understand how I CANT make up some aftermarket suspension parts?!? so pipe up, im bout to head up SOMETHING!

also, does anyone have factory unmolested control arms for a 4wd?? im in college, so no i dont have ALOT of money, but could probably come up with something...

[purduecrew]

ok, im not gonna let this die. I got off the phone with CST. Not because they offer a long arm kit for a 4x4, but just to try and get some info out of them. Apparently, 2wd control arms will bolt up directly to our trucks. That doesnt mean it will work obviously but they will bolt up none the less...so if you could find a set of 2wd long arms, you could modify from there. I was looking last night at how to modify the front to RID the torsion bars and add coilovers. With the superlift and having to cut things, I would rather cut something non crucial, such as our shock mount, add a wider mount, and add the coilover that way, so then if someone wanted to put everything back, they could mount a shock on the overkill perch...

[jdeller]

this sounds good to me where are you located? what state. Im in Mich. just trying to see if anyone else on here is from MI. thanks.. keep us posted!!

[bwenny247]

you know i am but i'm crewless

[gocntry]

ok, im not gonna let this die. I got off the phone with CST. Not because they offer a long arm kit for a 4x4, but just to try and get some info out of them. Apparently, 2wd control arms will bolt up directly to our trucks. That doesnt mean it will work obviously but they will bolt up none the less...so if you could find a set of 2wd long arms, you could modify from there. I was looking last night at how to modify the front to RID the torsion bars and add coilovers. With the superlift and having to cut things, I would rather cut something non crucial, such as our shock mount, add a wider mount, and add the coilover that way, so then if someone wanted to put everything back, they could mount a shock on the overkill perch...

How About This? Modified Astro AWD Upper Control Arms, There's Also A Ball Joint Relocation Kit Don't Know If That Help Either, I Have A 1997 Astro AWD And The Front End Componets Look Similar To Ours But I Don't Know If They Are Exactly The Same Or Not. Just Thought This Might Help In Your Research

[purduecrew]

yes this helps. It mainly brings up the weak points of our suspensions and what Im trying to do to correct it. There is no way in heck I can verbally describe our front suspension geometry, BUT i can try. These van upper control arms address two issues. 1) the ball joint angles. Upon working on my cv axles this weekend, I concluded that the upper arms are stamped steel and straight. The mounting surface for the ball joints is on the same plane as the mounting points to the frame, like this: -------O
these arms are more like this: >-----0 ( ignore the bottom half of that first symbol). basically its bent up at the end.

Second issue it addresses is the extreme difference in length between the upper and lower control arm. Quote:"These HD upper control control arms provide additional travel for high lifted vans as well as helping correct ball joint angles." Basically as the arms swing downwards in travel, the short upper control arm rapidly pulls the top of the spindle towards the frame. This is the real limiting factor to our lifts, not the factory shafts( i have a theory). That is why anything over 2" of tbar crank results in an inability to properly align our trucks.

SO HERES THE CURRENT GAME PLAN:
I have a lead on a set of good arms. I will mock up a template for these and get dimensions. Both arms will be lengthened an undetermined amount. Depending on that amount, I am going to make the upper control arm even longer by an equated amount( geometry) and will have the ball joint mounting surface at a horizontal level at ride height. The plan will also involve converting to coilovers and getting rid of the torsion bars. If you look at the factory shock setup, you can see a general idea of what im thinking...

Like I said, its all in planning stages in my brain, once i get my hands on a set of arms( by the end of next week), and my ass in the machine shop, i wont have anything in physical until then.

the way i see it, solid axles involve permanantly marring the factory frame, and even a superlift involves permanantly cuttin the differential. The plan with this kit is to AT MOST, require installing the longer half shafts, the new control arms, possibly grinding off the old shock mount and welding on redesigned ones in its place, and maybe ONE tab on the forward upper control arm mount. I know, sounds confusing as hell, but I figure with the revised coilover mount, one could remove all aftermarket equipment and put the factory equipment back on with no ill effects.

[Snoman002]

Yep, the upper arms are shorter than the lower, that is for the handling benefits.

The ball joint angle on the upper arm is supposed to be flat, thats for a reason (not saying it's perfect in our case).

Stock ride height for the S-Series trucks puts the control arms about level (hence the flat angle ball joint angle on the upper arm). What this does is when you take a corner the suspension compresses, this pulls the top of the tire in (the short upper arm) which combats the tendency of the top of the tire to push out due to body roll.

I'm sure there are more reasons too.

I am going to make the upper control arm even longer by an equated amount( geometry)

This is problematic! You can't just add length to the upper arm without adding the same (or similar) amount to the lower arm. If you don't you will never get the alignment even close. Sure, with angle on the arms you may need to add a little more depending on geometry, but it's going to be in fractions of an inch.

The other thing to remember is this is going to gain you very little height, and little travel.
The problem is the width that results from making the control arms longer. If there is say a 30 degree angle on the lower arm (thats allot), every inch of lift will equal two inches of width, on each side. So to gain 2" of lift the truck is going to be 8" wider. Lets say that 4" wider on the front track is OK, that equals 1" of lift. Now if using the stock CV joints you can't put any more angle on them, so in effect you gain little travel, say between 2 and 3 inches.

Now you can improve on that some with better joints and what not, but thats going to give you marginal returns for the price, so lets say that will give you another 2" of travel. All in all that yields you 4-5" of additional suspension travel. Now thats decent for a pre-runner, but remember that only gains you 4-5" on a ramp too, not 8-10".

Just thoughts to think about, I still think it's an excellent project.

[purduecrew]

You can't just add length to the upper arm without adding the same (or similar) amount to the lower arm. If you don't you will never get the alignment even close. Sure, with angle on the arms you may need to add a little more depending on geometry, but it's going to be in fractions of an inch.

I couldnt agree more. I may have mistyped it, but what I was trying to say is that both would be lengthened, just the top would get MORE length than the bottom, and like you said, my quick math figured on about a half inch of "extra" length. This is definitely gonna be a several month long project by the shortest standards, and im exploring doing a coilover conversion, or even a setup that still uses torsion bars for people like me who refuse to cut everything away from their truck. P.S. either way there will be new cv shafts, with 930 joints most likely. Those are capable of 45* and more. Bring on these thoughts people! It will help for a better end product. THANKS SNOMAN!

[Snoman002]

Glad to hear you have it figured out. I thought I would mention it because I have seen some people think that you could just make the top arm longer and be fine.

Personally I would like to see a T-bar setup, you might have to go with the strongest of the four bars GM made for the s-series, or even a fullsize bar (longer arms = more leverage) but that might not be too hard, although designing a lower arm that can take the stress might be tough.

Coilovers are cool, but DANG they add allot of money.

If you can get a shaft in there that will take 45 degrees then that will add a bit there, your suspension geometry might not be the best at those angles but for trail running it might not be that bad.

Personally I would like to center the diff as much as possible, shorten the pass side axle, move the LCA mounts in, and then cup the frame where the UCA's sit (so the pivots are actually inside the frame). You might have to notch the oil pan a little to clear the driveshaft and drop the front diff, but I think it "could" be done. Do that and widen the track a little (say 2" so it matches a ZR2 rear axle) and I think that you could fit around 4" longer control arms. It would be a PITA, and expensive, but I think that would yield the longest arms without making the track much wider.

[purduecrew]

Glad to hear you have it figured out.

haha i wish!

do you know where i can find detailed info on the factory torsion bars you speak of that have a higher spring rate?

[HenryJ]

Trying to do this on a shoestring budget is futile.

Sorry to rain on your parade, but this is not going to be an inexpensive alternative for a "little lift".

The A-arms are the easy part. Anyone can whip out a set of long arms with not too much effort. The problem lies in the half shafts. Longer half shafts alone will be expensive. Custom machining, and custom built shafts do not come cheap. Stock torsion bars are going to be way too soft with the added leverage. Converting to the fullsize bars is a whole bunch of work. It would probably be cheaper to go sprung and lots less hassle.
Now add to that replacing the rear axle to match the track width of the front and you have bitten off a big chunk of $$.

If you want to really build a nice IFS, long arms are a very small part of the equation. Beefing up the front axle would be foremost on my list of improvements. The Ford 9" and Porsche axles would be neat.

For a 2wd long arms might be a cheap way to go. For our trucks I really don't think it is economically feasible.

If you are really on a budget SFA is the least expensive way to go, IMO.

[purduecrew]

well the way i see it, a long arm ifs would be the highest performing. a superlift is merely a fancy bodylift IMO at the cost of 1600-2000. A straight axle is north of $2500 at least. im hoping that EVEN WITH coilovers and new halfshafts to do something in the sub $1500 range. Is it guarenteed? No. Do I know exactly how im going to make that happen? No. But it does help having access to the machines, computer technology, and potentially to a person who can put together some shafts for me at cost. Its a favor. I know I know. It wont be easy, but if I dont try, Ill never know...

[HenryJ]

I do wish you luck and it would be neat to see. I don't have high hopes if you are in school , selling spare parts to finance the project.

I would suggest investing in building some arms for a 2wd first. That way you can perfect the a-arm building on a much simpler platform. If they work out, then sell them and finance building some for a 4x4. That way you can focus on building some good arms without worrying about torsion bars, spring over shocks, and half shafts. When you have the experience under your belt, and at a significantly lower price, then feel free to dive into the 4x4 project with some foresight.

[purduecrew]

alright you debbie downers, you got your way

since im not an engineer i didnt catch the news at the beginning of this semester. but apparently the wonderful president of purdue decided to change up some budget stuff for the engineering school, and no longer is anyone permitted to use the machine shop unless working on an engineering project...so there goes that. theres pretty much no way for me to do anything if I dont have access to a welder, tube bender, lathe, press, etc... i will probably still do what I can to fully design something on computer, but it seems i will be shut down until i magically gain access to some machines...

[2kwik4u]

I have access to all that stuff, and was also involved on the development of the first good application of a coilover kit for the Syclone/Typhoon platform (standard 4wd S-series frame).

We already have drawings, and jigs setup to reproduce a slightly tweaked version of stock arms that use factory balljoints, and bushings, as well as a QA1 coilover in a semi-stock shock location. Going to a long arm isn't a stretch to modify our existing setup to make it work. Balljoint angle, shock mount location, and some geometry needs worked out, but like I said it's not a stretch.

I obviously have a test truck "sitting" around, and would be willing to move forward on the project if I could get 2-3 people to agree to cover the cost of material in order to be a "test subject" of sorts. Overall finished cost of our current coilover setup is ~$1,100. That includes new stock style polyurethane bushings, new stock style balljoints, coilover shocks and springs, and of course the new arms.

I hadn't posted before as I didn't want to step on any toes. Not sure if I still will or not, but if there is SERIOUS interest I'd be willing to help make it happen. Pics of our existing stuff can be found at www.jsmanufacturing.com Just browse to the gallery, and look through the suspension pics.

[HenryJ]

What do you project the cost of longer half shafts to be?

[2kwik4u]

No idea.....I have ZERO experience with those. I was hoping someone else could help with the sourcing on those.

[purduecrew]

dang it 2kwik, why didnt you post up sooner?? if by stepping on toes, you meant mine, no way, wouldnt hurt my feelings!

the cv shafts, from what i have been able to gather, are going to be in the 500 range, potentially 700 max.

2kwik, i know you made the deal for a syclone. i have a set of 4x4 arms off our trucks in my possession now. would that be of any help to the cause, since these may be slightly different... by the way, my real home is madison, which is only bout 40 miles up the river from you...

[HenryJ]

I would guess that custom half shafts would run closer to $500-$700 each at a minimum. That would put your estimate up around $2500. Pretty high for the small benefit.

How about going a little further here. Instead of custom building half shafts, how about using a fullsize differential , spindles and hubs? That would give you the wider assembly and beef up the front differential.
The longer a-arms would fit the stock frame mounts and adapt to the fullsize spindles. Some adapting for mounting the differential would be needed. I don't know what would be required there. An adapter u-joint to fit the stock driveshaft would be easy. I would think the cost would be comparable and the benefit greater.

Food for thought.

[2kwik4u]

That sounds like ALOT better idea than keeping the stock differential, and making longer CV's. It's a budget build as well in comparison. I'll do some research.

The 2nd gen arms only vary in the sway bar mounting. The rest of the dimensions are the same (we've made two sets for guys wanting to run them on 2g trucks).

[gocntry]

How about going a little further here. Instead of custom building half shafts, how about using a fullsize differential , spindles and hubs? That would give you the wider assembly and beef up the front differential.
The longer a-arms would fit the stock frame mounts and adapt to the fullsize spindles. Some adapting for mounting the differential would be needed. I don't know what would be required there. An adapter u-joint to fit the stock driveshaft would be easy. I would think the cost would be comparable and the benefit greater.

Food for thought.

That sounds like ALOT better idea than keeping the stock differential, and making longer CV's. It's a budget build as well in comparison. I'll do some research.

Here's A Start....
From Reading That It Seems The Front Differential Is Electronic And Not Vaccum Controlled So That Cures A Potential Problem With Our Front Differentials Also. There's Also A 5" BDS Lift & An LS1 Motor In His Truck

Originally posted by LS1 ZR2:

I thought I had written up the procedure before, but here it is again.

The 8.25" axle is larger than the stock 7.25", and has to be offset to the right side about 1". I cut the BDS lower crossmember apart, put the axle in place, and built the crossmember to hold it on the left lower side. The right bracket had to be completely modified because the 8.25" axle flange is at a different angle, and it is 1" closer to the right side. I built a new left upper mount as well. The axle shaft on the right side is from a full size, but it has been shortened 1". The left side is a production Z71 part. I had to machine the spindles open to the full size dimension, and add a new bolt pattern into it to hold the full size hub. I machined the outside down on the full size hub to fit into the ZR2 rotor, and drilled a new bolt pattern into it to match the rear (5 on 4 3/4"). The front shocks had to be moved because of the larger size of the axle shaft. The end on the driveshaft had to be changed for a larger u-joint, and the shaft had to be shortened. The 8.25" axle is not controlled by vacumn, it is electronic. I added the wiring to engage it with a switch on the console.

This covers most of the changes. The swap is not easy, but can be done.

[gocntry]

More Info On The Full Size Front Differential Swap......

I looked at the options for a stronger front axle. Knowing I did not want to do a SFA, there were really only a few options. I could use a GM axle from a full size truck, I could take a conventional front axle, like a Dana 44, and modify it and turn it into a IFS axle, or I looked at taking a rear axle from a early 80's Corvette (they are a Dana 44) and turning it into a front and building the required pieces. The easiest, and IMO the best option is the full size GM truck axle.

GM builds 3 different size front axles, 7.2", 8.2", and 9.2". There relationship in size compares to a Dana 30, Dana 44, and Dana 60. I looked at installing the 9.2" in my truck. While it can be done, I believe it is more axle than I need. The 9.2" is the only IFS axle that you can install a selectable locker in, but I don't plan to install one of those anyway. I don't believe it is required for the type of wheeling I do.

I am in the process of installing a 8.2" front. I plan to have it in place this weekend, providing I don't run into any unknown problems. It does not appear to be a major operation to install this, only about a 100 issues to deal with. Since I am changing the axle anyway, I decided to install 4.10 gears at the same time.

For others that are interested in doing this type of swap, I am documenting the change process. I am going to write a story on the swap for 4 Wheel and Off Road magazine. They may or may not ever run it, but either way it will be available to people here. If they don't run it, I will just publish it here.

You are correct on the vehicles the axles can be found in. The front axle I am running came from a 99 Z71 P/U.

I thought I would give a update on my progress. I have the 8.2" front axle installed into my truck, with a little help from Matt (Heavy Diesel). He stopped down yesterday and I put him to work. It fits very well, but it sure fills up the hole around the engine. There would be more room with the 4.3, but I think I will keep the LS1. None of the mounting locations are in the same place, close but not the same, and I had to modify all the BDS mounting brackets to hold the differental, including the crossmember between the lower control arms.

I do not have axle shafts in yet, neither of the production shafts will work, but I know what I have to do to build a new set. I am going to use the original outer CV joint, and the inner CV from the full size. I am going to have new axle shafts made with the correct splines to allow the CV's to snap on. I am going to have Moser Engineering make the shafts. I have already talked to them and they are ready as soon as I ship them the parts.

The front driveshaft will have to be modified. I will have the end changed on my front shaft to hold the larger U-Joint required to mate to the new diff. My exhaust needs to be modified also. The front drive shaft hits my left down pipe in it's current location.

I have to add wiring to lock the front axle in. The 8.2" does not use vacumn to engage the axle, it is electric. I could use a output from the t/case controler to engage the front axle, but instead I am going to put a switch on the dash to control this. I will be able to have 2WD low this way. There are only 5 wires and it is very easy to make work.

[GeorgesBlazah]

I would like to see a beefed up version of our front end using fullsize parts. Balljoints, cv shafts, wheelbearings and the front dif......Hell even pitman.idler arms. If there was something like that, that I could use with my SL6 I would be all over it.

[Miles]

the full size differential sounds like a lot of work when you can just get a cast iron zr2 diff. i dont see how in MY case, i could break that, or nicely crafted half shafts...

The iron ZR2 front diff is heavier, hard to find and isn't much stronger than the aluminum front diff that we have since both use the same 7.25" ring and pinion. In other words the iron front diff really isn't much of an upgrade, however the much stronger 8.2" full size front diff would be a lot better.

Steve

I think an "Aluminum 8.2 vs. Iron 7.2 IFS Diff" discussion thread, just might be in order in our near future!

[killian96ss]

I think an "Aluminum 8.2 vs. Iron 7.2 IFS Diff" discussion thread, just might be in order in our near future!

Sound like a good idea!

I really wish someone made a bolt in kit that uses the 8.2" front diff and larger axel shafts.

Steve

[gocntry]

I think an "Aluminum 8.2 vs. Iron 7.2 IFS Diff" discussion thread, just might be in order in our near future!

Sound like a good idea!

I really wish someone made a bolt in kit that uses the 8.2" front diff and larger axel shafts.

Steve

Well Being That Mike Copeland "LS1ZR2" Is I Believe Currently Working On A Bolt In SFA Kit That Will Use A Jeep Dana Axle And Will Fit All S-10's, And Being He Has Done The 8.2" Full Size Swap Maybe If Enough People Show Interest He Can Do A Kit For The Full Size Swap? Or Even a Set Of Plans For The Do-It-Yourselfer? That Would Be Very Interesting To See If That Could Be Done. But I Guess With Enough Time & Money Anything Could Be Done

[gocntry]

I think an "Aluminum 8.2 vs. Iron 7.2 IFS Diff" discussion thread, just might be in order in our near future!

Sound like a good idea!

I really wish someone made a bolt in kit that uses the 8.2" front diff and larger axel shafts.

Steve

Well Being That Mike Copeland "LS1ZR2" Is I Believe Currently Working On A Bolt In SFA Kit That Will Use A Jeep Dana Axle And Will Fit All S-10's, And Being He Has Done The 8.2" Full Size Swap Maybe If Enough People Show Interest He Can Do A Kit For The Full Size Swap? Or Even a Set Of Plans For The Do-It-Yourselfer? That Would Be Very Interesting To See If That Could Be Done. But I Guess With Enough Time & Money Anything Could Be Done

Hmmm.... Looks Like These Guys Are Working On A Front Axle Upgrade Option? Full Size CV's And Front Diff??

[killian96ss]

Hmmm.... Looks Like These Guys Are Working On A Front Axle Upgrade Option? Full Size CV's And Front Diff??

Steve

[gocntry]

Hi,
I Was Looking At Your Website And Happened To Catch The Blazer With The Full Size Front Diff & Cv Joints In It. Will This Be A Reality Soon (As In The Next 6 Months)? Or Is This Conversion A Looong Way Away Yet?
Just Curious As I Have A 2003 S-10 Crewcab I Would Love To Have A Full Size IFS Under It. If You Have A E-mail List For Updates Feel Free To Add Me To The List.
Thanks
Jeff

Jeff,
We hope to have it out w/i the next 6 months, but want to make sure that when it is released it is as indestructable and affordable as possible!! We will probably try and offer it 2 ways a complete kit, alot more or just the new subframe and necessary hardware, while the customer will aquire the 9.2" AAM front differential assembly and CV joints. 1/2 ton 6 lug steering knuckle assembly, lower a-arms and brakes!!
You'll be notified when it is available!
Jeremiah

[killian96ss]

This kit will work great on my 05 ZR2.

8.2" front diff, 8.5" rear diff.

Steve

[gocntry]

Newest Update On This From S-10 Extremist

We have done testing with the 8.25" AAM Front axle assembly and 1/2 ton Cv Joints on S-10's.
This has made a dramatic difference, but we are now working on a kit to use the 9.2" AAm front diff and 8 lug CV joints.
This would make the front drive axle stonger than a staright axle Dana 60, which has 30 spline out stub axles.
The front end will need to be changed to 6 lug wheel bearings.
The part we plan on making is all the lift kit subframe parts, to accept the 9.2 axle asssembly and and 33 spline Cv joints, and for the lower contol arms and steering cenetrlink.
The customer will need to provide 1/2 ton steering knuckle, brake rotors, brake calipers, and 1/2 ton lower control arms from an 88-98 G.M. 4x4 trucks.
I recently broke my back, which will be a set back in getting this kit to the Market.

[a2b]

i just saw this post. last weekend i was telling a friend of mine how i wanted to build a IFS front end that could be locked up and wheeled on hammer trails and not break.

i can do it, but like your custom fab guy said. it would run like 5 or more grand real fast. all custom work is expensive. and i understand what that guy is saying. the words "long travel" and stock torsion bars dont go in the same sentence. anyone looking for long travel is looking for performance. if you are just looking for lift, then who cares how much travel it has.

i personally want to build a long travel rig that can haull ass thru the woops and be able to rock crawl.

i have the center section picked out and i have 30 spline CV's that are pretty much indestructable....

i hope i get time to work on the project.

[purduecrew]

the words "long travel" and stock torsion bars dont go in the same sentence. anyone looking for long travel is looking for performance. if you are just looking for lift, then who cares how much travel it has.

you are right they dont belong together. however, i just wanted the ground clearance, stock travel was fine, just get it up in the air via ground clearance. thats why i dont like body lifts nor ifs lifts, because you dont gain any true ground clearance...

[purduecrew]

update:

i spoke with "benjamin" today at http://realiftsusp.com and I should have some pictures in my inbox tonite hopefully. This kit is a go, and i wont lie, what he stated on the phone as to how this kit is constructed, pretty ingenious...

[gocntry]

update:I should have some pictures in my inbox tonite hopefully.

Any Pics Yet?? This Is For The Full Size Front Diff Right?? You Can E-mail Me The Pics If You'd Like.

[DutchBiker42]

and then........crickets.