Ok, need help with backspacing and offset, rim is specified

purduecrew · Post by **purduecrew** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 3:33 pm

Alrite, I cant pass these rims up at these kinds of prices:

Eagle Alloy 101 Rims. Im going with the 15 inch diameter to run my current BFG tires. I dont think they are going to fit but heres the link to the wheel size availabilities: if anyone can help me pick what 15 inch rim would be the closest to working, and or anything i can do to make them fit. I WOULD BE SO APPRECIATIVE!!!

http://www.eaglewheels.com/index.htm

click on rwd wheels, rwd/truck wheels, then series 101.

PLEASE HELP ME DECIPHER!

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 3:48 pm

I don't see any with enough rear spacing. IMO you need 4 1/2" or more rearspacing.
The closest I see is:

1014-5734 15x7 Super Finish 5 on 4.75 Acorn +2 mm 4 3170-06 1950 lbs. 19 lbs.

That one is 4" rearspacing.
You might run into some rubbing issues. Still, on 30's you might just clear being careful on the street.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 4:02 pm

HenryJ wrote:.......... on 30's you might just clear being careful on the street.

Very careful but, that bottom inner lip on the rear of the front fender is almost guaranteed to rub.

purduecrew · Post by **purduecrew** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 4:09 pm

so your tellin me that no hammer nor spacer would make them work???

why do they even make wheels like this that wont work???

but seriously, so i would rub the outer edge of the tires on the fenderwell at full lock correct?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 4:13 pm

Spacers would make them worse.
We have 6" rearspacing. Those have 2" less. That would be like adding 2" spacers on the front.

Those are RWD (rear wheel drive) wheels. Our rear spacing is more like the FWD (front wheel drive) wheels. Our front axle is a drive axle.

FWD wheels may have the correct rear spacing, but you still need a wheel designed for the loads a truck can see.

purduecrew · Post by **purduecrew** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 4:38 pm

so whats the point of making wheels like that?

they have a 17x9 thats got 4 5/8 backspacing...i mean is 4.5 just a figure that is possible. or is 4.5 usable? do i go rockcrawling weekly? no. do i go offroad in fields, creeks? yah i sure do, so it cant render my truck useless...

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 4:57 pm

purduecrew wrote:so whats the point of making wheels like that?

A broader market targeted to 2wd, fullsize, imports, etc that do not require as much rearspacing as our trucks.

purduecrew · Post by **purduecrew** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 5:05 pm

purduecrew wrote: is 4.5 just a figure that is possible. or is 4.5 usable? do i go rockcrawling weekly? no. do i go offroad in fields, creeks? yah i sure do, so it cant render my truck useless...

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 5:06 pm

Keep shopping. You might try Centerline. They offer some pretty good rearspacing options.

purduecrew · Post by **purduecrew** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 7:27 pm

ok i looked. no luck.

alrite, lets think this all the way through. Im running stock rim, 15x7, with a 30x9.5 bfg at. I have yet to rub anywhere and ive gone all kinds of places. i never rubbed before the tbar crank either. The only front lift I have is torsion bar crank. I do believe the top of my front fender is 34.X inches. Is there any tire that could be mounted to a 17x9 with 4.675 bs, for say if I do a 2 inch BL?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 7:49 pm

Think of it this way. Your stock wheel sticks out only 1" (7" wheel with 6" rearspacing)

That 9" wheel sticks out 4.375" (9" wheel with 4.675" rearspacing)

Turn your wheel to the closest point at the rear of you fender and see if you have an extra 3.75" of clearance.

The top of your fender is not the first problem. It is the increase in radius when the wheel turns. The further out it sits the larger radius when the wheel is turned.

If you have not rubbed and do not have a bodylift, you are indeed fortunate. I rubbed with the stock optional 29" offroad tires without one. This was under heavy articulation.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 8:08 pm

I never caught a first name from you, PurdueCrew. Mine's Reed.

Unless your crew was built on a very good day you are sitting at the very best hgt that you can expect. It doesn't get any better. Change that stock BS and you'll rub with 235/75s! Just ask Barch. Change it with those 30s and you better get real friendly with a sawzall because that BFH may not cut it. I have questioned this issue and posted pics until blue in the face and the bottom line is you better listen to Brule

I never admitted it to Brule but, I rubbed badly with my 30/9.50s with my 4.5" BS wheels with 1.25" spacers running the yoko 30/9.50s with cutting. I know it looks like it will work but, your stomach will feel like it was kicked at the first inclined driveway you pull into. Feel free to be a hard head like me and try it.

Edit My rubbing was after a 2" BL

purduecrew · Post by **purduecrew** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 8:22 pm

AFTER?!?! Damn, i thought the BL would work miracles. I was real opposed to a BL until i saw your gap guards, and how everyone hid the frame with step bars. So you all are telling me the tbar crank, plus BL still wont fix the problem. What if I cut the fenders like KCustom did? He was running 315's on 17 inch kmc rims. Did that take care of it?? And yes, im searching right now for the answer.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 8:44 pm

KCustom had one of the prototype 6" SLs that is now available. His flares were basically one of a kind that we dropped the ball on by not buying the molds once he had a child and bailed out of the modding business. A BL will help tremendously but. is not a cure all! My knowledge is limited to the 15" wheels. Fender trimming will help but, sit down and look at the the rear of your front fender well. Your firewall butts up against the inner fender. The real issue is that reducing the BS or tossing on wider tires will cause them to contact the bottom of the rear fender when turned. Get much larger and then the front valance will need to be addressed.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 9:03 pm

The ZR2 guys are as bad off as us and they have mods to help them run the 31.50s and they are searching for ways to get 32s on their rigs. The wheels are the critical issue with the required back spacing. The ZR5 wheels is the current rage with our ZR2 brethren. Why? It's different for them and they work due to the BS issues on them.

purduecrew · Post by **purduecrew** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 9:21 pm

hello Reed,
sorry i never properly introduced myself, you all can call me brandon.

so i just finished reading the install of skidz flares, and at the bottom it says
" With a 2" bodylift there is over 1.5" of clearance between the 31x10.5-15 tires (actual diameter 30.7") at the tightest point now. This is with 4.75 inches of rear spacing"

whats up with this? is this suggesting that a 2" BL and the skidz install will cure the problem???

i mean afterall, im only looking to run a different sized rim, same overall diameter.

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Mon Nov 20, 2006 2:38 am

it's true, 4" is not enough backspacing.

but, a lil' bending and hammering and a tightening of torsion bars and the rub is minimal. (at about 3/4 turn with a small bump I still rub)

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:38 am

I went with a 15x8 Centerline with 5.5" BS and I started rubbing. I had 30x9's on stock rims and did not rub anywhere. Now, even turning to pull into a parking space when the front pushes down into the turn, I rub, not severly, but I rub..

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Fri Nov 24, 2006 8:28 am

The picture here is of my truck on a slight uphill grade, which adds room between the tire and the fender rubbing spot.

I think there is like 1/4" of space at most. These are the 15x8 Centerlines with 5.5" BSing in 30x9.5 MT's and no wheel spacers and no body lift. It really only rubs going into a sharp turn while braking, like pulling into a parking spot, but I'm planning on doing the 2" body lift, then the fender trimming w/ Line-x'd rocker/fender edging and going to 31's or 32's.

purduecrew · Post by **purduecrew** » Fri Nov 24, 2006 12:52 pm

thanks for gettin that picture, they speak a thousand words! dang dang dang dang dang dang....

kermit · Post by **kermit** » Sun Nov 26, 2006 4:29 pm

the best thing to do is to snatch up a set of Skidz cut outs ... there wasn't as much work as I had expected for the install and it makes a HUGE difference as far as opening up the wheel well!

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Sun Nov 26, 2006 8:27 pm

By the way if you couldn't tell, that picture is with the driver side wheel turned to the left with it at the closest point to where it would rub. And actually, the passenger side rubs the most.

cdnuser · Post by **cdnuser** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 10:25 am

Check out the new micky thompson rims with the simulated bead lock. Awesome!