How do I remove the front rotors?

jajwrigh · Post by **jajwrigh** » Thu Nov 02, 2006 2:12 pm

I am in the process of replacing pads, rotors, and greasing caliper slide pins. What fits the nut in the center of the rotor?? I have bought large sockets and wrenches and nothing works! What size is it and what tool will remove it the easiest? Please help me guys, I am loosing my mind.

Jigg · Post by **Jigg** » Thu Nov 02, 2006 2:47 pm

You don't need to take the nut off to remove the rotor... you probably have the small clips still on the studs, you'll have to pull them off with needlenose pliers or something.

JaVeRo · Post by **JaVeRo** » Fri Nov 03, 2006 5:46 am

Due to rust and dust you may have to beat on it with a rubber hammer.

James

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Nov 03, 2006 5:51 am

You can also use a brass/bronze punch and give it a good whack between the wheel studs to help loosen it from the hub.

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Fri Nov 03, 2006 6:23 am

JaVeRo wrote:Due to rust and dust you may have to beat on it with a rubber hammer.

James

Rubber hammer? If you're takin' em off to replace with new rotors, you can beat on 'em with whatever you have handy.

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Fri Nov 03, 2006 7:12 am

You probably already know this and/or are done with the job, but just in case.

Remove brake fluid reservoir lid, Remove caliper, (the two slide bolts), leave old brake pad on piston side of caliper in caliper and use C clamp to push caliper piston in, remove caliper mount bracket, (two bolts), remove the two tension washer/nuts that screw on to two of the lug studs. I use a flat screwdriver to basically work it back off the stud. If the rotor has seized on and since you are replacing it, either beat all around the stud face plate ( face, top and sides) to work it loose or utilized some Nut Buster and a hammer to remove it. Clean area and new rotor with brake cleaner, and reinstall in reverse order. The two washer/nuts that hold the rotor on can be flattened back out, if they get bent up, with the hammer and a flat surface.

Anyone can correct me I'm mistaken in something, and yes, hammers are a vital tool in all work that I do.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Nov 03, 2006 8:24 am

Don't forget to change as much fluid as possible with new, and Steve recommends opening the bleed screws to prevent debris in the fluid from being pushed back into the ABS system.

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Fri Nov 03, 2006 8:45 am

WVHogRider wrote: ...leave old brake pad on piston side of caliper in caliper and use C clamp to push caliper piston in...

$6.88 @ Advance Auto Parts. And worth every penny

2kwik4u · Post by **2kwik4u** » Fri Nov 03, 2006 8:47 am

First time I've seen one of those tools.....WAY better than my size 58 C-clamp!!!

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Fri Nov 03, 2006 1:35 pm

When pushing the piston back into the caliper,it's a good idea to open the bleeder screw as you push the piston in. I neglected to do this step one time, and it cost me $700.00 to replace the abs assembly. I was given this information by the service manager where I had the module replaced.

kwalsh · Post by **kwalsh** » Fri Nov 03, 2006 2:42 pm

I had to beat the he!! out of the rotor with a BFH.

BADs Crew · Post by **BADs Crew** » Fri Nov 03, 2006 3:22 pm

kwalsh wrote:I had to beat the he!! out of the rotor with a BFH.

Thats how I've seen it done.

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Fri Nov 03, 2006 4:29 pm

16 lb. sledge hammer comes to mind.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Nov 03, 2006 4:34 pm

rlrnr53 wrote:16 lb. sledge hammer comes to mind.

Wow, that's a big hammer!!!!

Steve

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sat Nov 04, 2006 2:50 am

Holy chit!

If I had used a 16lb sledge to loosen the rotors when I had to remove them to replace the broken studs I would have knocked the truck clean off the jack stands and destroyed the entire front axle. I think a 5 lb hammer is more than enough persuasion to get the job done.
How important are the locking disks? I had to chisel mine off due to rust and didn't bother to replace them.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Nov 04, 2006 3:34 am

04crewvt wrote: How important are the locking disks? I had to chisel mine off due to rust and didn't bother to replace them.

Not important at all. Calibers will hold it on the studs when the wheel is off.

BADs Crew · Post by **BADs Crew** » Sat Nov 04, 2006 3:56 am

f9k9 wrote:
04crewvt wrote: How important are the locking disks? I had to chisel mine off due to rust and didn't bother to replace them.
Not important at all. Calibers will hold it on the studs when the wheel is off.

I think the rust pretty much holds them on if you need a 16lb sledge hammer to get them off later.

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Sat Nov 04, 2006 4:53 am

This 16lbs sledge story reminds me of removing my REAR rotors. The parking brake shoe wears a groove into the inside drum portion of the rear disk and the shoe ring gets stuck behind the lip it creates.

If the fronts are needing that much persuasion, there's something terribly wrong. Beating on it with a 16 lb sledge will surely only make matters MUCH worse.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Nov 04, 2006 6:24 am

04crewvt wrote:...How important are the locking disks?

Not at all. They are just a left over from the assembly process. These keep the rotors from falling off as it is assembled.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sat Nov 04, 2006 7:20 am

I am glad to here that I thought they were "pocket parts" when I removed them and I was right.