Does anyone have a good method for removing the seal...it's a pain.
I'm changing the trans filter in my Bravada 102,000 miles. The oil is slightly discolored, trans couldn't work any nicer except the tcc is a little harsh compared to the crew, I think its in the programing for 1999 not the trans.
Been reading to much about trans fluid shock to do a flush yet, I want to change the filter for now and see how it works, maybe do the flush in about 5,000 miles. comments welcome
Best Regards, Jim
2004 Tahoe, Summit white, loaded up. 06 front air dam, wood interior trim, Shaved Roof Rack, Escalade rear vents, LED Tails, SLP dual cat back exhaust w/ Flowmaster 70 muffler, 20 inch 07 Sierra wheels.
If it is easy to get at you might be able to use a large paper clip. Just unfold what you need to get at it. I used this when I changed o-rings in my fuel meter body after finding out that one side was missing them, ordered new and pulled all them out with paper clip and replaced. If you don't like paper clip then you might try a dental pick type tool...
these seals have a steel inner shell, kinda similar to a wheel bearing or axle shaft seal, and have a very tight fit to the case. it often takes a good sized screw driver, or awl to pry them out.
you just have to careful not to damage the aluminum bore they fit into, or you may have air getting sucked in from around the seal...
crew cab sonoma wrote:these seals have a steel inner shell, kinda similar to a wheel bearing or axle shaft seal, and have a very tight fit to the case. it often takes a good sized screw driver, or awl to pry them out.
you just have to careful not to damage the aluminum bore they fit into, or you may have air getting sucked in from around the seal...
The seals are a royal pain. I decided since the old seal was still in nice soft condition if the filter sliped into it tight I wasn't going to change it. Anyway how many other seals in the trans are the same age as the filter seal? I have a plyer type seal tool that expands inside the seal, when I did my crew cab I used it and it ruined the seal and didn't budge the seel shell then I had to remove it. I finally used a hooked headlight removal spring tool with a vice grips on the shaft and a pry bar to pry it out without damaging the bore. This seems to be a stupid design and definitely makes a shade tree mechanic want to pay someone else to do the job. My guess is the mechanics on the lift use a slide hammer type remover like a pilot bearing remover we had at the Corvette shop.
On to the condition of the trans. this thing worked flawlessly before the filter change. nice firm shifts and no hunting for a gear like my crew. 103K miles are on it 86K highway from 99-2002 and 16K from 2002-06 in New York City according to the carfax. After the filter and 5 qts of DexIII the trans performs the same ...superb. Pan contents when dropped was only dark gray to black dust on the magnet and a thin layer over the bottom of the pan. The pan gasket was petrified and stuck to the pan, my guess is original filter and fluid or maybe this is the second time for a change. There is no evidence this trans was ever touched with a wrench.
Best Regards, Jim
2004 Tahoe, Summit white, loaded up. 06 front air dam, wood interior trim, Shaved Roof Rack, Escalade rear vents, LED Tails, SLP dual cat back exhaust w/ Flowmaster 70 muffler, 20 inch 07 Sierra wheels.
agreed. they are indeed a pain. and once you start trying to remove it, the damage is done, and you are then committed to replacing it.
transmission shops probably have a special tool just for this...
i too have left some in place, and used them again.
and like you said, other seals are just as old, and many of them have to deal with moving parts, ect.
my only concern, which may be unfounded, is if the old seal sets up a "memory" of any slight vaiance in shape, or size of the old filter tube, and isnt able to perfectly conform to the new one.
crew cab sonoma wrote:agreed. they are indeed a pain. and once you start trying to remove it, the damage is done, and you are then committed to replacing it.
transmission shops probably have a special tool just for this...
i too have left some in place, and used them again.
and like you said, other seals are just as old, and many of them have to deal with moving parts, ect.
my only concern, which may be unfounded, is if the old seal sets up a "memory" of any slight vaiance in shape, or size of the old filter tube, and isnt able to perfectly conform to the new one.
The slide hammer I mentioned...
My new filter is a GM and the old one was too, all the same mold marks and numbers, I think there could be a problem if you mix brands, but if the new filter is snug I am confident the seal will be tight.
Best Regards, Jim
2004 Tahoe, Summit white, loaded up. 06 front air dam, wood interior trim, Shaved Roof Rack, Escalade rear vents, LED Tails, SLP dual cat back exhaust w/ Flowmaster 70 muffler, 20 inch 07 Sierra wheels.
comments welcome 
