My Plan:
I am planing on getting a 2 speed taurus fan and a Flex-a-lite VSC to run the fan with. I want to wire the low side to come on at a specified temp and the hi side to come on when the A/C is requested. I would also like to be able to turn on the hi side with a separate in cab switch at any given temp/time. If all this turns out, i will write a how to on this installation and post it here.
My problem:
i'm an electrical/wiring Ignoramus morronus(ignorant morron).
My questions:
What do i need to get this project going?, Do i need any other relays switches or electrical gizmos?, and lastly, Can anyone here draw me up a wiring diagram for said installation.
Thanks to everyone in advance.
Thank you.
Gonzzo.
E-fan ?'s for HJ and all others...
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HenryJ
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If you have not yet purchased the VSC, you may want to get the heavier one. The Taurus fans are notorious power hogs.
I may talk you out of it altogether before I'm done.
Having the low side come on with the temperature is a good idea, but as it rises you need to supplement it with the high speed. Otherwise I am afraid you may get it hot.
The VSC is nice in that it cushions the load by starting at 60% and gradually increasing to 100% over the next ten degrees.
The taurus fans take a different approach to the variable speed. They make a split in the speeds. I don't know what the percentage might be.
I am not sure the VSC is a good choice for use with the Taurus fans. It would work, don't get me wrong, but it is kind of like adding training wheels to and adults bicycle. It may not be needed.
If you use the VSC, I think I would just wire it in to the high speed. That way it would start at 60% go to 100% and the AC would kick it to 100% as it was designed. This might be the simplest, but kind of makes the low speed useless.
The next option would be to not use the VSC.
You still need a thermostatic control, and I am afraid the cheap mechanical controls are all that I know to be available. I have found them to be less than consistent and have had several fail. So, you might say I'm not a big fan. Still I am running one on the Vega.
If you want to go that route here is the instruction from the S-series forum- Electric Fan How-To – courtesy of Hotwire
I may talk you out of it altogether before I'm done.
Having the low side come on with the temperature is a good idea, but as it rises you need to supplement it with the high speed. Otherwise I am afraid you may get it hot.
The VSC is nice in that it cushions the load by starting at 60% and gradually increasing to 100% over the next ten degrees.
The taurus fans take a different approach to the variable speed. They make a split in the speeds. I don't know what the percentage might be.
I am not sure the VSC is a good choice for use with the Taurus fans. It would work, don't get me wrong, but it is kind of like adding training wheels to and adults bicycle. It may not be needed.
If you use the VSC, I think I would just wire it in to the high speed. That way it would start at 60% go to 100% and the AC would kick it to 100% as it was designed. This might be the simplest, but kind of makes the low speed useless.
The next option would be to not use the VSC.
You still need a thermostatic control, and I am afraid the cheap mechanical controls are all that I know to be available. I have found them to be less than consistent and have had several fail. So, you might say I'm not a big fan. Still I am running one on the Vega.
If you want to go that route here is the instruction from the S-series forum- Electric Fan How-To – courtesy of Hotwire
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
I run the Taurus fans in several trucks, and HJ's right on the money. The VSC is like training wheels on that fan.
I run two relays......One for key on/off operation, and one for high/Low operation. Compliment that with the mechanical thermostat from Autozone, and you'll have a decent setup.
Basically the first relay provides power to the circuit when the key is turned on. Nothing special about it, it can be a regular 4-pin relay if you want it to be. Once that is "tripped" it provides power to the thermostat which controls the low speed. It will handle enough amps for LOW on the taurus fan without melting. No problemo. The power must come THROUGH the second relay when NOT "tripped". The reason for this is that when the A/C comes on you want it to trip the second relay, and activate high. WIth the Taurus fan, you don't want to have high and low running at the same time. The second relay seperates them out for you. You can tie a 12v+ into this same trip wire as the A/C to control high from the cab if you like, however you will need to add a diode in the line from the A/C trip wire to prevent "backflow".
This all sounds complicated, and kind of is until you can wrap your head around it. I think I have an old schematic sitting around I might try to find for you.
I run two relays......One for key on/off operation, and one for high/Low operation. Compliment that with the mechanical thermostat from Autozone, and you'll have a decent setup.
Basically the first relay provides power to the circuit when the key is turned on. Nothing special about it, it can be a regular 4-pin relay if you want it to be. Once that is "tripped" it provides power to the thermostat which controls the low speed. It will handle enough amps for LOW on the taurus fan without melting. No problemo. The power must come THROUGH the second relay when NOT "tripped". The reason for this is that when the A/C comes on you want it to trip the second relay, and activate high. WIth the Taurus fan, you don't want to have high and low running at the same time. The second relay seperates them out for you. You can tie a 12v+ into this same trip wire as the A/C to control high from the cab if you like, however you will need to add a diode in the line from the A/C trip wire to prevent "backflow".
This all sounds complicated, and kind of is until you can wrap your head around it. I think I have an old schematic sitting around I might try to find for you.
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Thanks HJ and 2K, i appreciate your advice. I did a bit of research and found that the controller sold at www.dccontrol.com is highly regarded by quite a few muscle car people. I did some reading and it looks good but for the $ i think ill try the relays first.
2K, it would be GREAT if you could post a diagram of you setup, like i said im illiterate when it comes to wiring and electrical issues, so a diagram to follow would be key in my situation.
Keep the advice coming and thanks.
Gonzzo.[/url]
2K, it would be GREAT if you could post a diagram of you setup, like i said im illiterate when it comes to wiring and electrical issues, so a diagram to follow would be key in my situation.
Keep the advice coming and thanks.
Gonzzo.[/url]
Heres a basic explanation of how a relay works, and why you need one.....Good info to have.
http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp
I prefer to have people at least look over, and partially understand the need/usage of items before I hand out schematics. Understanding the principles, and theroies behind WHY something is doing what it's doing will ultimately pay dividends if you have problems with it working in the future.
http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp
I prefer to have people at least look over, and partially understand the need/usage of items before I hand out schematics. Understanding the principles, and theroies behind WHY something is doing what it's doing will ultimately pay dividends if you have problems with it working in the future.
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HJ is probably going to yell at me for posting such a big pic, but I think it's worth it, and he has the power to edit 
Nope as long as it is under 100k , we're good -HJ
In the above schematic you are going to want to use AT LEAST 10ga wire for the main (constant on) power wire, as well as all the wires between the relays, and all the wires to ground, and to/from the fan. Autozone, and other parts stores sell 10ga wire in rolls of 25' for a few bucks. You should also have a good understanding of how to make connections (with either butt connectors, or solder joints,and heat shrink tubing).
Also please keep in mind I'm neither a schematic producer, not a graphic artist by trade, so that thing is pretty rough. However I think it will get the point across, and get you moving in the right direction.
let me know if you have any questions.
Nope as long as it is under 100k , we're good -HJ
In the above schematic you are going to want to use AT LEAST 10ga wire for the main (constant on) power wire, as well as all the wires between the relays, and all the wires to ground, and to/from the fan. Autozone, and other parts stores sell 10ga wire in rolls of 25' for a few bucks. You should also have a good understanding of how to make connections (with either butt connectors, or solder joints,and heat shrink tubing).
Also please keep in mind I'm neither a schematic producer, not a graphic artist by trade, so that thing is pretty rough. However I think it will get the point across, and get you moving in the right direction.
let me know if you have any questions.
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HenryJ
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I disagree with the above schematic.
Low fan speed is not enough to keep the engine cool.
As wired above , the only time that high speed is available, is if the AC is on. If the AC is not running it goes back to low fan speed. That may be a recipe for melt down.
It is also not a good idea to run the fan supply directly through the mechanical thermostatic switches. It burns out their contacts way too quickly. Relays are cheaper and easier to replace. The thermostatic switch is better used as a trigger for the relays.
Follow the link I provided above for a schematic that includes the high fan speed when needed. That one has the low speed on when ever the key is on.
rlith has posted his diagram several places-
With this diagram you could use two thermostatic switches. The low would operate from say 180-190 and the high kick in at 190 -up and with the AC. Or a manual switch to have low speed come on with the key and have the high side operated by the thermostatic switch and AC.
Lots of possibilities
EDIT: Looking this one over, you might have to add one more relay for the AC to use the negative high pressure switch request wire.
Low fan speed is not enough to keep the engine cool.
As wired above , the only time that high speed is available, is if the AC is on. If the AC is not running it goes back to low fan speed. That may be a recipe for melt down.
It is also not a good idea to run the fan supply directly through the mechanical thermostatic switches. It burns out their contacts way too quickly. Relays are cheaper and easier to replace. The thermostatic switch is better used as a trigger for the relays.
Follow the link I provided above for a schematic that includes the high fan speed when needed. That one has the low speed on when ever the key is on.
rlith has posted his diagram several places-
With this diagram you could use two thermostatic switches. The low would operate from say 180-190 and the high kick in at 190 -up and with the AC. Or a manual switch to have low speed come on with the key and have the high side operated by the thermostatic switch and AC.
Lots of possibilities
EDIT: Looking this one over, you might have to add one more relay for the AC to use the negative high pressure switch request wire.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
I'm not well versed enough on the crew cab to know if it will or won't cool it enough with only low on. I do know it's been installed as I have the schematic drawn in multiple 2wd trucks, and a few 4wd blazers with ZERO cooling problems so far.
With that said, my ZR5 is the first 4wd S-series I've ever seen not be able to keep up in the summer with the A/C on in traffic......So I could very well be wrong, and would trust HJ's opinion on it moreso than mine.
Ultimately either will work, and if you put another small switch in the cab on the A/C trigger, you could easily just keep your eye on the gauge and switch it on when needed. While not as idiot proof it will still work.
In the end use the one you are most comfortable with, and that will provide the results you desire.
With that said, my ZR5 is the first 4wd S-series I've ever seen not be able to keep up in the summer with the A/C on in traffic......So I could very well be wrong, and would trust HJ's opinion on it moreso than mine.
Ultimately either will work, and if you put another small switch in the cab on the A/C trigger, you could easily just keep your eye on the gauge and switch it on when needed. While not as idiot proof it will still work.
In the end use the one you are most comfortable with, and that will provide the results you desire.
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HenryJ
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Here is another install- FORD Muscle fan install
I would probably follow their install and just use the high side. That is a pretty easy way to go.
A couple of things still make me nervous about the Taurus fans :
The stock system draws up to 54 amps with the AC on at idle speeds. We only have a 105 amp maximum output alternator. That is not measured at idle speed. Even being conservative the power hungry Taurus fan is going to need more than is available. Especially at idle speeds.
Keep in mind that I may be biased to the LS1 fans. They have been working better than any fan installs I have done to date.
Back to your original question:
Follow Rliths diagram. It will accomplish this.
I would probably follow their install and just use the high side. That is a pretty easy way to go.
A couple of things still make me nervous about the Taurus fans :
I'd say it takes closer to 3000 cfm to keep these V-6 engines cool. I really don't know which arctic state they think that would be sufficient.Fordmuscle wrote:...pulls an estimated 2000cfm. Well suited for cooling modified V8's.
Fordmuscle wrote:The relay on the controller is rated at only 30 amps and will not be sufficient for the new fan so we purchased a 75 amp rated Bosch relay
The stock system draws up to 54 amps with the AC on at idle speeds. We only have a 105 amp maximum output alternator. That is not measured at idle speed. Even being conservative the power hungry Taurus fan is going to need more than is available. Especially at idle speeds. Keep in mind that I may be biased to the LS1 fans. They have been working better than any fan installs I have done to date.
Back to your original question:
Gonzzo wrote:... I want to wire the low side to come on at a specified temp and the hi side to come on when the A/C is requested. I would also like to be able to turn on the hi side with a separate in cab switch at any given temp/time.
Follow Rliths diagram. It will accomplish this.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK