Torsion Bars, Torsion Keys, and Shackles 2" suspension

CWard · Post by **CWard** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 7:14 am

I would like to give my 4 door blazer a little bit of a lift just for a little more ground clearance and dont want to have to put a whole lot of money into the lift. The most cost efficient lift i've found so far is using the shackles in the back and torsion bar tweaking. Lately i've noticed how some people dont even use the torsion key, they just adjust on the bar itself. What is everyone's opinon on how to raise the front properly, which is better? I havent gotten a chance to look under my truck lately so i'm not sure how the whole torsion key adjustment works anyway. Also for the rear shackles, what do yall use because i want a good quality shackle back there. I think i saw a brand named Daystar that looked pretty substantial but i would also like someone's opinion on that. My AIM sn is CWard2005 if you would like to get in touch with me that way.
Thanks,
Chris

Jigg · Post by **Jigg** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 7:23 am

IMO, don't bother with the t-bar keys. Use the stock adjusters.

For shackles, Chris Knaffle's are second to none in my opinion. I have a set of his 2.25" and i would buy them again in a heartbeat. His email address is: chris.knaffle@gmail.com

See this thread on ZR2USA for more info:

Shackles

Post by **Walt** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 9:23 am

I agree with Jigg, you don't want to exceed the maximum adjustability that the stock keys offer. You'll run into some issues if you do.

Don't forget to add in the cost of an alignment. That quickly turns a free torsion bar crank into a $50 torsion bar crank.

Personally, I'd take the truck to a place that does alignments, and either crank the TB's in the parking lot, or see if they'll let you do it while the truck is on the lift, that way you don't have to drive it to the alignment place.

Another alternative is the 2" body lift. $200 get's you a solid 2". While this doesn't increase ground clearance, it allows for larger tires, which does increase ground clearance.

CWard · Post by **CWard** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 2:28 pm

Thanks for your input. My dad is a mechanic so i can easily do all the adjustments and stuff on our lift and probably just haul my car down to the alignment shop but i'll take that as it comes. I'm pretty sure i've found the correct bolt to crank on but how much do you suggest i turn it so that i get 2" or should i just do it as i go? As far as the rear shackles go, i've seen some that are rated 1.5" but from what yall said, go with the ones that are 2.25", i just dont want my front end to appear raked out or anything. I have a reese hitch on the back, will this get in the way of the new shackles or not? I dont really want a body lift right now because i just want to get a little more ground clearance and i'm not a fan of the gap body lifts usually but between the frame but i still might do it later. I'm going to try to post a pic on here that i took of what i'm pretty sure is the adjuster bolt for the torsion bars. I was just wondering about something else. There is this kinda curved piece between the adjuster bolt and the crossbrace bolt, is this where the torsion key would go if i wanted to put one in there? And how exactly does tightening these bolts change the ride height? When you crank on the bolt does it turn the torsion bar, in turn lowering the control arm?
Chris

CWard · Post by **CWard** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 2:31 pm

One other thing, for this much lift, should i replace the shocks and if so what should i get?
Chris

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 2:53 pm

First a

Welcome!

You have a little reading to do-
Trim Height Measurements
I think that you will find that 2" is not an option. Either you will not have enough adjustment to align it, or you will not have enough room to adjust it up that high.

Torsion Bar Crank That is a step by step "how-to".

A search will also yield tons of information.

CWard · Post by **CWard** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 3:21 pm

Note taken. I'm looking to get up to 2" if possible is what i meant. I checked out the tutorial you have and it is great. I love all the tutorials and stuff you have in your mod section because it is so hard to find straight forward instructions and examples of how people have done similar things. I know i've got a blazer but the crew cab is pretty close to the same thing with the exception of the rear half of the truck. Now i just have to decide where to get my shackles from. I'll be looking into the Knaffle shackles and i understand he makes them himself and i'm not sure if he has any available at the moment. Regardless, a lift is in the making but any more input that anyone has would still be greatly appreciated.
Chris

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 3:36 pm

Welcome to the site.
These are the shackles I am running for 1.5 inches in the rear.Warrior Shackles with my t-bar crank I got about 1.5 in the front but every vehicle will be different depending on where they start.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 3:42 pm

If that picture you posted is of your adjusting bolt, I doubt you have much more than an inch of adjustment left.
Actually an inch is about all that can really be expected.

If your Blazer is "typical" , the tail already has sag and you are an inch low in the back.
Raising the front an inch and adding some long shackles will get you leveled up.
Don't forget that you don't get 2" of lift from 2" longer shackles. Plan on about half that.
So in reality you are looking at a 1" lift.

Check out the information on bodylifts. There are quite a few advantages to it.
The "gap" issue can be solved with gap guards and side bars.

Post by **Walt** » Tue Sep 26, 2006 11:17 am

Something else to think about: A body lift may not raise the frame higher off the ground, but in raising the body, it increases your approach and departure angles, which can be useful in some offroad situations.

EDIT: I forgot to mention this. Justin (bubaloo1983) also makes shackles. He's a member of the forum here. His shackles look like the warrior shackles posted above, but the ends are round. I've had a set of them on my truck for several months now. They're a good quality product. I think they run $65 per set.

Justin, I'm assuming that you're still selling these. If not, let us know.

bubaloo1983 · Post by **bubaloo1983** » Tue Sep 26, 2006 12:14 pm

i have taken some time away to focus on work. but i can still make them but not for 65 bucks as of right now. i will get back into some metal work next year sometime

Post by **Walt** » Tue Sep 26, 2006 12:18 pm

Ahh ok. Thanks for the heads up

bubaloo1983 · Post by **bubaloo1983** » Tue Sep 26, 2006 3:22 pm

yah without a production stye quantity the cost goes up

CWard · Post by **CWard** » Wed Sep 27, 2006 6:11 pm

I'm back with another question. Since my dad is a mechanic, and bought my car, hes concerned with the drive axle angles. I know that a lot of people say to not go over 2" on the torsion bar tweak because of the cv joints but how about the rear drive axle line with the shackles installed. Can yall confirm that both the front and rear axles are fine without stress?

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Sep 27, 2006 6:42 pm

Most say don't go over 1" on the t-bar adjustment.
No one in there right mind will say that cranking the t-bars and adding shackles will add no stress. Adding longer shackles will increase articulation and perhaps take the trucks rear suspension beyond the available travel for the rear driveshaft depending upon the vehicle.
The shocks will likely limit this , however that means they may also be "stressed".
Safest bet is to use the trim height specifications and adjust for the maximum allowable.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed Sep 27, 2006 6:59 pm

First of all I don't think you will get 2" of lift on the front with a t-bar crank and even if you could raise it that much i wouldn't recommend it since it will cause too many problems. I only have a 3/4" t-bar crank and I'm able to run 31" tires with minimal rubbing and no CV joint problems. A 1" to 2" lift on the rear will not cause any problems.

The pinion angle will still be well within the acceptable limits. I have Summit Racing Sway Control helper springs on the rear of my CC which gave me 1.5" of lift, however I just recently ordered a set of Daystar greasable 1.5" lift shackles to help off road articulation and to soften up the rear ride quality. If you frequently carry a lot of weight in your Blazer or plan on towing then helper springs or add a leafs might be a better choice.

Steve

Post by **Walt** » Wed Sep 27, 2006 7:56 pm

My T-bars have been cranked to the max (was that way when I bought the truck) and I've had two CV boots come loose and sling grease. I have an arrangement with my dealer to have them replaced at no cost, but they're normally $100+.

Stretching the front suspension will also accelerate wear and tear on the balljoints. I've used 2" lift shackles on two S-series vehicles so far and have not had any problems related to their use, so I think you're safe.

Snoman002 · Post by **Snoman002** » Thu Sep 28, 2006 4:39 pm

I have 1" lift shackles (1" of lift) and I also have higher arched springs, right now the rear sits 5" higher than the front, and thats with cranked t-bars (say +1.5"). Other than having some u-joint problems, that was strangly enough solved with non-greasable joints, there has been no problems with the rear. This is all with a reg cab short bed, so it's about the same wheelbase as yours.

The t-bar crank on the other hand has had some serious negative effects. Now I can't be sure that some, or alot, of the problems comes from the 4" BS 8" wide rims, but I go through balljoints once a year and wheel bearings every other year. It's not so bad if you buy the lifetime warrenty stuff, but it's still a pain to change that stuff that often. Of course I can do all four ball joints on my 92 in under 2 hours now, not sure if thats a good thing or not though

.

Post by **Walt** » Fri Sep 29, 2006 12:46 pm

This coming february will be a year since I put my aftermarket wheels on. They're similar to yours--8" wide with 4" of backspacing, wrapped in 31x10.5x15's. No balljoint problems yet, but only time will tell.

Snoman002 · Post by **Snoman002** » Fri Sep 29, 2006 4:57 pm

Walt wrote:This coming february will be a year since I put my aftermarket wheels on. They're similar to yours--8" wide with 4" of backspacing, wrapped in 31x10.5x15's. No balljoint problems yet, but only time will tell.

Good luck.

I'm not to sure that some of the problem didn't arise from the 5 miles of really CRAPPY dirt road I drove every day. I think that with the 4" BS rims really took it's toll on the BJ's and wheel bearings. That said the stock balljoints made it to 130k before being replaced, I had the truck on stock rims from 85k to 125k and drove those roads every day .

Post by **Walt** » Fri Sep 29, 2006 6:20 pm

I don't frequent really bad roads everyday, so that may help me some. I just had the front driver's side bearings replaced several months ago, so those are out of the way.

TexasBlaZeR2 · Post by **TexasBlaZeR2** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 9:38 am

How do things like BL, SL, Shackles, Leveling Keys, T-bar cranks, and Add-a-Leafs do to the factory and extended warranties?

Thanks,

Tom

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 10:06 am

RaleighBlaZeR2 wrote:How do things like BL, SL, Shackles, Leveling Keys, T-bar cranks, and Add-a-Leafs do to the factory and extended warranties?

Thanks,

Tom

If, they can't pin your problem on the mod then there is no problem. If you have shackles and your rear differential is fouled up then they can blame the shackles. If, your HVAC screws up then, your lift mods cannot be blamed. I don't think they will ever blame a TB crank for front end problems if, you are within their trim specifications. They won't admit that they are incorrect or provide correct trim measurements. Let any alignment shop use GM Trim Measurements and you'll have a TB crank that GM cannot argue with. They will want it lowered but, can't refuse warranty service!