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You really gotta find a smarter duck
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Luck like that can not hold out forever...can it?
Moderator: F9K9
Yes it canHenryJ wrote:
You really gotta find a smarter duck
Luck like that can not hold out forever...can it?
HenryJ wrote:Swap the positive and ground.
HenryJ wrote:I had a similar thing happen to me while trying to wire some driving lights on a truck. I wired them to only operate when the ignition and highbeams are on. That way they can dim the highbeams and not have to flip the switch too. This also means they can not forget and leave them on as they shut off with the key. "Truck driver proofing" is what I call it. The wiring may be a little complicated, but the user can be a complete idiot![]()
Mine kept tripping the breaker since in the off position the switch grounded the hot wire in the off position.
HenryJ wrote:The conversion is not all that difficult and when you're done it is a direct bolt in assembly. There is a guy in KY installing his right now. If he can do it anyone can. His ducks drown and he has managed to tackle this project.
HenryJ wrote:Progress report...please.
HenryJ wrote:Did you get the temp setting worked out?
HenryJ wrote:Did you get the same variable speed controller that I used , or the heavy duty model?
HenryJ wrote:Any feed back on performance?
HenryJ wrote:Thoughts? Impressions?
Open your door and they will quit doing that.f9k9 wrote:...I parked at our wallyworld (engine off) and was listening to a story and waiting on my right wing Fox News station to finish the story before I went inside. The fans kept cycling on and off. like they do when the engine is running. As far as I know, that has happened only once but, I don't make a habit of loitering around the truck when I arrive somewhere.
HenryJ wrote:Open your door and they will quit doing that.
It must be the retained accessory power.
It is not really an inconvenience, or problem as I see it. I am going to leave mine "as-is"
GeorgesBlazah wrote:dont get your unit wet!
http://s-seriesforum.com/f9k9 wrote:So, where is the photo located?
The shiny thing is what appears to be a Powerdyne supercharger.....Not sure if that is what you were refering to or not though....I don't see anything else really standing out, or looking out of place there.f9k9 wrote:What is that thing in the lower left quadrant?
I'm not impressed with his/her wiring
So what do you folks think ?Notes: Variable speed controller and probe for 280/282/290 and 270 series "monster" fans. Rated 40-45 amps
I have read a report as well, but nothing confirmed or first hand. One member here had a failure, but it may have been related to a deep water crossing.bgs wrote:I've read but can't verify that Flexi was having
some probs with their VSC's. ... what do you folks think ?
Spal-usa.com wrote:Fan Accessory
Part Number: FAN-PWM
Description: Automatic Programmable Fan Controller
Retail Price: $89.95
This fully waterproof controller is programmable, and will read almost all OEM and Aftermarket sensors on the market.
-Programmable to activate at any temperature
-Factory programmed to 160° Low, 200° High
-Variable speed for reduced fan noise
-Uses OEM or optional SPAL Temp Sensor
-Waterproof extruded aluminum construction
-LED indicators for High, Low, and A/C
Im pretty sure when i went into submarine mode, the fans were on and once the water was high enough into my radiator and the fans got somewhat submerged it(not sure if im using the right terminology here) caused a big load on the electrical system to try and turn the fans over. Which then inadvertantly(sp) fried everything from working so hard.f9k9 wrote:GeorgesBlazah wrote:dont get your unit wet!
A couple of questions on your VSC failure if you don't mind taking the time![]()
Did you follow Flex-a-lite's instructions and mount the unit's positive and negative connection's directly to the battery or did you vary from their instructions like Brule and I did?
What steps did you take to determine that the water crossing fried the unit? The reason why I am curious is that yesterday, I suddenly noticed my temp gauge was almost pegged and I hadn't had any problems prior to that. I had noticed recently that the fans weren't running after I got out of my rig but, the temps had been well within range. I attributed that to the outside temps and the fact that I have recently reinstalled my my 180° t-stat.
TIA
Reed
Dayem! All I had left on my "to do" list was my e-brakes (which I have all figured out) and those two rims.HenryJ wrote:I did not use any of the wiring that came with my controller.
I used 10 gauge for positive and negative both to the fans and from the battery.
Walt wrote:HenryJ wrote:I did not use any of the wiring that came with my controller.
I used 10 gauge for positive and negative both to the fans and from the battery.
This part is very important! Make sure the ground wire is the same size as the positive wire, or larger
HenryJ wrote:I just double checked mine. I do have a 12 gauge wire about 10 inches long running to #1 ground. #2, #3 and #4 are 10 gauge.
I do not remember how long the pieces of 10 gauge are to where I soldered them to the 14 gauge wires for the fans.
Walt wrote:This part is very important! Make sure the ground wire is the same size as the positive wire, or larger
HenryJ wrote:If you check the amperage/wire size tables 12 gauge should be overkill.
I don't know where the problem lies for sure. Perhaps the blame can be laid upon a poor connection?.........................I would solder the terminal end to the wire and perhaps even use a little dielectric silicone where spade meets terminal................Seeing how you have had a problem, I would solder the connections and upsize the wiring, just for good measure.
Guess not.f9k9 wrote:...you didn't run the ground the same size as the positive?
I keep telling you guys I am a moron with electrical stuff and you keep throwing "Pyramid 1500 Watt anps on RF Sub" at meWalt wrote:Reed, I don't know the electrical specs on the fans and such, but in high amp/current applications, especially car audio, adequate grounding is essential. I remember one situation when a friend wanted me to look at his "system". He had a Pyramid 1500 Watt amp on an RF sub. He had 2 guage power wire from the battery, and a 3' 10 guage ground wire. His ground wire melted into, and melted itself to his ground terminal on the amp.That's just an example in an extreme case.
Seems Mike forgot about this thread with his problems with his CC overheating..2kwik4u wrote:The shiny thing is what appears to be a Powerdyne supercharger.....Not sure if that is what you were refering to or not though....I don't see anything else really standing out, or looking out of place there.f9k9 wrote:What is that thing in the lower left quadrant?
I'm not impressed with his/her wiring
SASonoma wrote: I am wondering your thoughts on this because in the winter I primarily run the defroster and foot vent setting on the HVAC controls and don't want the fan coming on if it's negative temperatures outside or if I'm on the freeway any time with the A/C on.
Any ideas or suggestions?
For Brule, yes! I had a trip to Hot Springs, AR in August that caused me fits! I would look at the temp gauge at interstate speeds and it was going over 210°, dangerously over that. I made a stop or two to make sure that the fans were running correctly and they were. I could bring the temp down rapidly by turning off my AC. The ambient temps then were probably hovering around 100°.SASonoma wrote:........... Everything still running fine, cool and strong?..............