truck wont start *solved* (plug failure)

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Sun Apr 23, 2006 9:42 am

I have been gone since Fri morning went fishing with a buddy in his truck and got home this morning ,went to run to the store in my truck but it wont start.

The truck turns over and at first sounds like it wants to start I thought there was a thread about this problem but I cant seem to find it or if anyone can tell me what might be the problem would be great.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Apr 23, 2006 10:13 am

Check the fuel system, and ignition system.

Turn the key on and listen for the buzz of the fuel pump. If that checks out, pull the cap off port for connecting a fuel pressure gauge and depress the schrader valve. Is there fuel there?
If you have a gauge , connect it and take a reading. 50 lbs or better with the key on would be nice

Now check the ignition stuff. Pull the cap and inspect the interior as well as the condition of the rotor. Clean or replace as needed. Be sure to check for a loose contact on the rotor. Some of the cheap ones without the capture block loosen up. This can lead to misalignment and damage to the carbon contact in the cap. All part of inspecting the cap and rotor.

Next choose a plug that is easy to get to and remove it for inspection. If all that looks good use an insulated pair of pliers to hold the plug against a good ground and have a friend crank the engine over while you watch for good spark. If there is no spark pull the ignition module and take it to your local autoparts store for testing. If it checks out then a replacement coil may be in order.

The crank position sensor and cam position sensors can be a cause as well, but the earlier checks should point to these. The cam position sensor is under the distributor cap, and the crank position sensor is in the bottom right front of the engine behind the balancer.

Of course check connections and wiring for problems while you are in there. A critter may have chewed some wiring or something may have been loose.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Apr 23, 2006 3:58 pm

Jeff024 wrote:My problem is solved for now I just replaced my plugs I had the NGKs in it and 1 on the pass. side was missing the electrode so I went to advanced and they replaced all 6 for free they have a 2yr replacement on the NGK plugs so I put the same plugs back in and shes running fine for now.Hopefully thats the only problem

For future reference, which NGK plugs (make , model , part number)

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Sun Apr 23, 2006 4:07 pm

They are
NGK Iridium IX plugs
part # on the end of the box is TR55IX 7164
NGK plugs

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Apr 23, 2006 4:24 pm

Seems like someone else has had this problem.
Mine have been doing just fine. I am running an MSD 6AL though.

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Sun Apr 23, 2006 4:53 pm

it might be because I regapped the old 1s when I got them to the spec of .060 and when I just got the new plugs there computer said DO NOT REGAP so I didnt and now we will see how it gos

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Apr 23, 2006 5:34 pm

Ahh, might have damaged one unknowingly? That would make some sense. That is indeed a possibility. The tiny electrode is likely to be rather susceptible to damage from outside forces.

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Mon Apr 24, 2006 12:47 am

I checked them when I got home and even the new plugs were only gapped at a little over .050 but it calls for .060 so this time I didnt regap

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Mon Apr 24, 2006 7:54 am

The gap is supposed to be .060 not .050. Most plugs are pre-gapped, but don't ever assume they are correct. If your new NGK's are only gapped @ .050 then you should re-gap them.

Steve

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Mon Apr 24, 2006 12:17 pm

killian96ss wrote:The gap is supposed to be .060 not .050. Most plugs are pre-gapped, but don't ever assume they are correct. If your new NGK's are only gapped @ .050 then you should re-gap them.

Steve

I didnt regap the new plugs and the trucks running just fine so only time will tell

Q14. Should I regap my Iridium spark plugs?
A14. In most circumstances, no. The nature of Iridium spark plugs means that they are able to utilise a larger gap setting while actually requiring less voltage and straining the ignition system less. If you *have* to regap Iridium spark plugs (e.g if misfire occurs due to gap being too large) then do so with extreme care. Do not use a slide type gapping tool or put pressure on the brittle centre electrode in any way as it may become damaged.

The manufacturers say NO.
This is because most people do not know how to properly gap a spark plug, and the center electrodes on the ultra-fine iridium can easily snap if mishandled. There is no warranty for snapped center electrodes. The manufacturers say an iridium spark plug will run so much better than a traditional plug, even if it is not gapped for that motor, that they would prefer you just leave it rather than risk snapping the center electrode.
Personally, we at sparkplugs.com, gap our iridium plugs for our own vehicles (we’re rebels). If you insist on gapping your iridium plug, please refer to Proper Gapping for instruction

S-10CREWCAB.NET

truck wont start solved (plug failure)

truck wont start solved (plug failure)