A stud broke on one of my wheel spacer. My wheel almost fell off too. It appears when I had some wheel hop(it was raining yesterday), it was enough force to snap a stud. This appeared to cause the other wheel nuts to go loose. Lucky my wheel did not come off as I was on the highway when I felt the vibration. Lucky it appears no damage to the wheel so I just unbolted both spacers and I had a spare nut from my Isuzu(same size). I followed there torque specs and added 10 pounds(they said only 95PSI so I went 110 just to be safe). When I was taking off the other side, it was tight(same torque wrench put on both sides), but one it broke loose, it was easy to come off. The spacer to the axle was much tighter(to break loose) and I used the same PSI on there too. So it appears the studs might be slightly different than the factory studs(even though these are suppose to be factory studs but I don't think that's the case). I'm not going to blame the spacers as it could be the factory nuts as well. So I would suggest dont' follow their torque specs and go much more PSI(i've heard other people torque there up to 130PSI). I'm back to goofy rear tire stance now.
Con
P.S. Where do I buy the factory wheel nut as I want a matching nut back on. Plus the black plastic cap also. Is there a factory locking wheel nut that has a black cover also?
[size=75]2007 Hummer H3 all Stock
Sold: 2004 Chevy Avalanche Z71 all Stock.
Sold: 2002 Chevy S10 Crew Cab ZR5 - Mods: Truxedo Bed Cover, APC and TYC Lights.[/size]
Bummer, I'm guessing it was the left side? (drivers side)
You can try the local tire shop for a lug nut. If they don't have one the salvage yard will for sure. As a last resort you can get one from your local GM dealer or an online GM parts house.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderIIKE7CSK
Go to your dealer and purchase a set of factory locking lugs. The plastic covers fit on them and your wheels will be safe. I have then on my 17s and you can't even tell. They are about 30 bucks.
Conman wrote:A stud broke on one of my wheel spacer. My wheel almost fell off too. It appears when I had some wheel hop(it was raining yesterday), it was enough force to snap a stud. This appeared to cause the other wheel nuts to go loose. Lucky my wheel did not come off as I was on the highway when I felt the vibration. Lucky it appears no damage to the wheel so I just unbolted both spacers and I had a spare nut from my Isuzu(same size). I followed there torque specs and added 10 pounds(they said only 95PSI so I went 110 just to be safe). When I was taking off the other side, it was tight(same torque wrench put on both sides), but one it broke loose, it was easy to come off. The spacer to the axle was much tighter(to break loose) and I used the same PSI on there too. So it appears the studs might be slightly different than the factory studs(even though these are suppose to be factory studs but I don't think that's the case). I'm not going to blame the spacers as it could be the factory nuts as well. So I would suggest dont' follow their torque specs and go much more PSI(i've heard other people torque there up to 130PSI). I'm back to goofy rear tire stance now.
Con
P.S. Where do I buy the factory wheel nut as I want a matching nut back on. Plus the black plastic cap also. Is there a factory locking wheel nut that has a black cover also?
Are you sure the other nuts came loose or did the studs stretch to make them appear to be loose. I personally would not go over the tightening specs.
Best Regards, Jim
2004 Tahoe, Summit white, loaded up. 06 front air dam, wood interior trim, Shaved Roof Rack, Escalade rear vents, LED Tails, SLP dual cat back exhaust w/ Flowmaster 70 muffler, 20 inch 07 Sierra wheels.
Jim wrote:Are you sure the other nuts came loose or did the studs stretch to make them appear to be loose. I personally would not go over the tightening specs.
It was the Left side that went loose. The Right side was tight, but it was easier to break the nuts loose from the wheel to the spacer than it was to break the nuts loose on the spacer to the axle. And I used the same torque wrench for all nuts(both spacer and wheel). So since breaking the nuts loose on the wheel was much easier, I would suspect that the torque of the wheel hop could have broke the stud, and cause the nuts to just break loose(since it was easier) causing them to go loose. Let me remind you I probably drove less than 250miles since I put on the spacers(I still only have 3700miles on my Crew) so I never rechecked the nuts as I was going to do it at my next service since I put so few miles since the spacers. no heavy towing either.
I'll looks at the factory locking nuts as I want to get locking bolts but wanted the factory plastic cover also. Thanks.
Con
[size=75]2007 Hummer H3 all Stock
Sold: 2004 Chevy Avalanche Z71 all Stock.
Sold: 2002 Chevy S10 Crew Cab ZR5 - Mods: Truxedo Bed Cover, APC and TYC Lights.[/size]
I hope that everyone, after reading this, running new spacers goes out and checks them for proper torque.
When mine were new I rechecked the torque after 100 miles and every oil change thereafter.
The left side is more prone to loosening because of the direction of rotation.
Some of the older cars/trucks had left hand threaded studs for this reason. Big trucks still use them.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderIIKE7CSK
on my full size. i had a wheel come off one me while i was driving down the road. no lugs were to be found, so i grabbed 1 lug from the other rims and put the wheel back on and drove for a good year like that. front driver with 3 of the 5 lugs. and the other 3 wheels with 4 of the 5 lugs
Conman wrote:Where do I buy the factory wheel nut as I want a matching nut back on. Plus the black plastic cap also. Is there a factory locking wheel nut that has a black cover also?
Best Regards, Jim
2004 Tahoe, Summit white, loaded up. 06 front air dam, wood interior trim, Shaved Roof Rack, Escalade rear vents, LED Tails, SLP dual cat back exhaust w/ Flowmaster 70 muffler, 20 inch 07 Sierra wheels.
quickbiker wrote:I just kinda guessed at the torque with a cheapy torque wrench at about 100 ft/lbs. Haven't had any probs. knock on wood.
Yeah, my torque wrench is not a namebrand wrench either, which was the reason I increased it to 110. Also, I normally travel like 2miles a day to park at the train station so it's not like it was a hard 250miles so it would be shocking that it went loose on those light miles. I def. think the wheel hop was a factor. I def. want to look at some sort of traction, helper springs now.
Cheers,
Con
P.S. Boy it looks so goofy again.
[size=75]2007 Hummer H3 all Stock
Sold: 2004 Chevy Avalanche Z71 all Stock.
Sold: 2002 Chevy S10 Crew Cab ZR5 - Mods: Truxedo Bed Cover, APC and TYC Lights.[/size]
Best Regards, Jim
2004 Tahoe, Summit white, loaded up. 06 front air dam, wood interior trim, Shaved Roof Rack, Escalade rear vents, LED Tails, SLP dual cat back exhaust w/ Flowmaster 70 muffler, 20 inch 07 Sierra wheels.
I can remember having my jeep a couple of years ago, I was rotating my tires and normally I hand tighten the nuts on the jack, lower the truck until a little weight is on them and tighten fully to torque specs....but one day i forgot one wheel and drove 30 miles.....The truck was wobbling uncontrollably. I pulled over, jacked it up, turned all 5 lugnuts 1/2 a turn and they came right off... Drum housing needed new bolts....Any further and I could have caused a serious accident. NOW I ALWAYS double check after rotating
Conman wrote:A stud broke on one of my wheel spacer. My wheel almost fell off too. It appears when I had some wheel hop(it was raining yesterday), it was enough force to snap a stud. This appeared to cause the other wheel nuts to go loose. Lucky my wheel did not come off as I was on the highway when I felt the vibration. Lucky it appears no damage to the wheel so I just unbolted both spacers and I had a spare nut from my Isuzu(same size). I followed there torque specs and added 10 pounds(they said only 95PSI so I went 110 just to be safe). When I was taking off the other side, it was tight(same torque wrench put on both sides), but one it broke loose, it was easy to come off. The spacer to the axle was much tighter(to break loose) and I used the same PSI on there too. So it appears the studs might be slightly different than the factory studs(even though these are suppose to be factory studs but I don't think that's the case). I'm not going to blame the spacers as it could be the factory nuts as well. So I would suggest dont' follow their torque specs and go much more PSI(i've heard other people torque there up to 130PSI). I'm back to goofy rear tire stance now.
Con
P.S. Where do I buy the factory wheel nut as I want a matching nut back on. Plus the black plastic cap also. Is there a factory locking wheel nut that has a black cover also?
my spacers stay tight. The chrome cover lug nuts on a zr5 look bad, believe me.
2002 crewcab ZR5 -- dark metallic blue , 2" PA bodylift , 1.5"torsion bar and shackle lift , 31" BFG all-terrians , K&N airfilter and 40 series , Flowmaster exhaust , Leer 100XQ cap , AND MUCH MORE!!
My wheel almost fell off too. It appears when I had some wheel hop(it was raining yesterday), it was enough force to snap a stud. This appeared to cause the other wheel nuts to go loose. Lucky my wheel did not come off as I was on the highway when I felt the vibration. Lucky it appears no damage to the wheel so I just unbolted both spacers and I had a spare nut from my Isuzu(same size). I followed there torque specs and added 10 pounds(they said only 95PSI so I went 110 just to be safe). When I was taking off the other side, it was tight(same torque wrench put on both sides), but one it broke loose, it was easy to come off. The spacer to the axle was much tighter(to break loose) and I used the same PSI on there too. So it appears the studs might be slightly different than the factory studs(even though these are suppose to be factory studs but I don't think that's the case). I'm not going to blame the spacers as it could be the factory nuts as well. So I would suggest dont' follow their torque specs and go much more PSI(i've heard other people torque there up to 130PSI). I'm back to goofy rear tire stance now. 
Drum housing needed new bolts....Any further and I could have caused a serious accident. NOW I ALWAYS double check after rotating
Thanks again.
