Replacing wheel studs
Moderator: F9K9
Replacing wheel studs
Split topic-HJ
Ok, I got my new tires today and I ran into a problem The shop that last did my alignment ruined all ten studs on my spacers They had to be removed. So here's my question, The spacers I have came from completevalue and I was completely satisfied with them. While searching ebay I came across these spacers, are they the same as the completevalue spacers?
Thanks
Ok, I got my new tires today and I ran into a problem The shop that last did my alignment ruined all ten studs on my spacers They had to be removed. So here's my question, The spacers I have came from completevalue and I was completely satisfied with them. While searching ebay I came across these spacers, are they the same as the completevalue spacers?
Thanks
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Why not spend $10 and replace the studs?Steve2003 wrote:... I ran into a problem ...The shop that last did my alignment ruined all ten studs on my spacers ...
The overall diameter looks good. I would be tempted to get some hubcentric if the cost is not too much more.
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That sounds like a much beter option. So can I pick up the studs at the local auto parts store? and what about having them replaced, who or how would I go about that?HenryJ wrote:Why not spend $10 and replace the studs?
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How did they ruin the studs???
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According to the tire shop they over tightened the lug nuts with a impact wrench and didn't torque them. The alignment shop did a tire rotation when they did the alignment. Two of the lug nuts were siezed on the studs and they broke off and the other eight were stripped and the lug nuts wouldn't tighten back up.
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Yes the parts store will have the wheel studs. They should run around a buck a piece.Steve2003 wrote:... can I pick up the studs at the local auto parts store? and what about having them replaced, who or how would I go about that?
A press is the best way to install them, however you can do the job yourself.
Use a punch and BFH to knock the broken studs out and the damaged ones should pop out with a swift hit. If you are going to install them yourself there are a couple methods that will work.
#1 would be a press. Either Arbor or hydraulic. Align the serrations somewhat and press them in to the shoulder.
#2 You can lay your spare tire face down. Place the spacer on it and drive the wheel studs down using a soft punch. Brass would be desirable. You will have to take some measurements to determine that they fully seat. You are just using the wheel as a table with holes in it. since I am guessing that your table doesn't have the proper hole spacing let alone the holes for the studs
#3 Is primarily used when installing a stud on the vehicle. You can stack loose fitting washers over the stud to be pulled into place. Lubricate the washers and stud. Use a spare lugnut threaded on backward and a wrench to pull the stud into the hub. The stack of washers serve as a bearing and spread the load. By stacking them you move the stressed area of threads out beyond where the lugnut would normally reside.
One of the three methods will work for you. As a last resort, any repair shop should be able to replace them for you. It is not rocket science as you can now see.
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I think I'd find a different shop to do my work. Any decent shop would have offered to make good their damage and educated or relieved the original impact wrench operator.
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Agreed. That can be a tough one though. It is not the fault of the shop removing the wheels even though the studs break and strip during removal. They did not overtorque them.f9k9 wrote:I think I'd find a different shop to do my work....
It may have been months since the offender touched them and the damage was done. It is better to catch the culprit in the act.
Give them heck for not doing their job properly. Watch them as they work. Make sure they start the nuts by hand, gently run them down, and torque them correctly.
Another learning experience. Cheaper than a college education.
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I recall there being a sign posted behind the counter in almost every shop I have ever entered that very clearly states:
Service Rates $40 per hour
If you watch $50 per hour
If you help $75 per hour
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Thanks Hj,
Jeff which method did you use to replace your studs?
Edit: bad spelling
Jeff which method did you use to replace your studs?
Edit: bad spelling
Last edited by Steve2003 on Fri Mar 17, 2006 5:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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...Doing it yourself- PRICELE$$barch97 wrote:...Service Rates $40 per hour
If you watch $50 per hour
If you help $75 per hour
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I got the studs at advanced autoSteve2003 wrote:Thanks Hj,
Jeff which method did you use to replace your studs?
Edit: bad spelling
I had to replace the stock studs not the 1s on the spacers but I knocked the bad studs out with a BFH then lined the new 1s up best I could then used old lug nuts and an impact untill they were tight seems to be just fine and the wheel has no wobble
Last edited by jeff024 on Sat Mar 18, 2006 11:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
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I had to replace mine when someone tried to steal my wheels and couldn't get the locks off, screwed up the threads....
Take the caliper off and hang it , put a small block of wood so the brakes don't depress, spin the hub so the stud head can clear the dust plate, lube it, pound out the old stud. Put new stud in, use open end lug nuts and run them down all the way until the stud sets all the way through and you're done.
Take the caliper off and hang it , put a small block of wood so the brakes don't depress, spin the hub so the stud head can clear the dust plate, lube it, pound out the old stud. Put new stud in, use open end lug nuts and run them down all the way until the stud sets all the way through and you're done.
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Just take an old one in with you. I think you will find the OEM replacement studs for a S-10 will be a perfect match.Steve2003 wrote:What,s the correct size stud I need for the wheel spacers? I know they are 12mm but what about the length or are they a standerd size?
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Seat them fully. This may require a few washers on the face if the unthreaded portion of the stud comes through a little and you are using a nut to pull them into place.
I'd soft punch them from the back side if you do not have a press. That way you do not stress the threads or mounting surface.
I'd soft punch them from the back side if you do not have a press. That way you do not stress the threads or mounting surface.
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We don't have Advance auto parts here. I tried autozone,Kragen and Napa with no luck. The studs are not the same as the application for our trucks. Napa was the most helpful they even got their caliper and tried to find the right studs.
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Can you take a picture of the stud? Where did they come from?
The AIM spacers and Dwight Long's (completevalue) spacers use pretty standard studs. I am sure you could contact either of them for replacement studs.
We have a bearing and hydraulic shop here that carries a wide selection of studs. If they don't have it they can get it.
The studs that I replaced in the spacers for 2bunik were the standard S-10 wheel studs.
Worst case, send me a used stud and I'll find some for you.
The AIM spacers and Dwight Long's (completevalue) spacers use pretty standard studs. I am sure you could contact either of them for replacement studs.
We have a bearing and hydraulic shop here that carries a wide selection of studs. If they don't have it they can get it.
The studs that I replaced in the spacers for 2bunik were the standard S-10 wheel studs.
Worst case, send me a used stud and I'll find some for you.
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I'm prety sure I got them from completevalue. I sent him a email to see if he had the studs or if he new where to get them. If he can't help me I will take you up on that offer and send you one of the studs.
Thanks
Thanks
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steve how many do you need I have 10 that were sent to me from the place that I got mine from you cane have all 10 but I will part with a few if you can wait a I will ship you a few
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I need eight of them, only two look to be still useable. Jeff where did you get yours from?
EDIT: I have a couple pictures of the studs. On the top of the head of the stud there is the letter U and the number 176
EDIT: I have a couple pictures of the studs. On the top of the head of the stud there is the letter U and the number 176
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the place that I got the spacers from. mine came with the wrong size studs a size larger and I called them and they sent me the right studs I just never put them in just went and got a larger lug nut
Last edited by jeff024 on Sun Mar 19, 2006 3:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Jeff, Do those look like the studs that you have?
If they do you guys need to...make a deal
If they do you guys need to...make a deal
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mine are for a 1 1/4 spacers
they measure 1 7/8in measure yours steve but dont measure the tip where there is no thread
I got my spacers on ebay from this place
EZ-ACCESSORY
I think there in Cali might try gettin ahold of them you might be able to get them faster from them
ezaccessory@yahoo.com
they measure 1 7/8in measure yours steve but dont measure the tip where there is no thread
I got my spacers on ebay from this place
EZ-ACCESSORY
I think there in Cali might try gettin ahold of them you might be able to get them faster from them
ezaccessory@yahoo.com
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........ 2006 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/jeff024/]PICS OF THE CREW CAB[/url][/size]
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My spacers are 1 1/4 Hub centric.
The studs measure 2 1/16 to where the threads stop, they look really close but I think mine are a little longer.
Jeff are yours 12mm? Can you count the threads? mine have 18 threads. I guess yours will work if they are the same circumference. That was the problem I had when Napa was trying to help me, they had three different 12mm x 1.5 studs but the circumference was not correct, they used a caliper to measure theirs compared to mine.
The studs measure 2 1/16 to where the threads stop, they look really close but I think mine are a little longer.
Jeff are yours 12mm? Can you count the threads? mine have 18 threads. I guess yours will work if they are the same circumference. That was the problem I had when Napa was trying to help me, they had three different 12mm x 1.5 studs but the circumference was not correct, they used a caliper to measure theirs compared to mine.
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Measure the diameter at the splines and compare. They are likely both 12mm x 1.50 pitch. Thread counts and length will not be of much help.
Last edited by HenryJ on Sun Mar 19, 2006 4:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Measure the hole in the spacer that you removed the stud from. As long as the splines on the new studs will be tight enough they should work.Steve2003 wrote:Using a tape measure mine seem to be 9/16 in diameter at the spline.
I dont have a caliper.
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mine appear to be the sameSteve2003 wrote:Using a tape measure mine seem to be 9/16 in diameter at the spline.
I dont have a caliper.
I can ship them all to you and you can pay me if they work and if they dont you can ship them back
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Good idea 9/16HenryJ wrote:Measure the hole in the spacer that you removed the stud from. As long as the splines on the new studs will be tight enough they should work.Steve2003 wrote:Using a tape measure mine seem to be 9/16 in diameter at the spline.
I dont have a caliper.
Jeff would you happen to have a part#?
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You guys could measure the circumference and compare. Wrap a piece of paper around the splined portion and mark the circumference. Then lay it out and measure the length.
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only thing on the top of mine isSteve2003 wrote:Good idea 9/16HenryJ wrote:Measure the hole in the spacer that you removed the stud from. As long as the splines on the new studs will be tight enough they should work.Steve2003 wrote:Using a tape measure mine seem to be 9/16 in diameter at the spline.
I dont have a caliper.
Jeff would you happen to have a part#?
10.9 and the letter B
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10.9 should be the hardnessjeff024 wrote:... on the top of mine is
10.9 and the letter B
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lmao this is crazy if you want shoot me a pM with your address and I will ship them to you and like I said if they work you can pay me for them and if they wont just ship them back HJ said there worth $1 a piece so I guess that and whatever shipping is.or we can wait and you contact the place I posted awhile ago and see if there close to you its up to you.
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Steve, This may be the size you have Moser Engineering #8390 12 mm x 1 3/4" .580" knurl $17.50/set of 10
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Laugh My A** OffSteve2003 wrote:...what does lmao stand for?
I think Jeff needs to re-measure. His measurement is rather long for the sizes listed. The knurled diameter is what we want. Not the head. If anything a smaller diameter would be a bit more common.
Last edited by HenryJ on Sun Mar 19, 2006 5:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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lmao (laughing my A** off)
because the three of us are setting here waiting for the next person to reply cant even tell ya how many time I hit refresh to see if there was a new post sorry I couldnt be of help steve hopefully those are the 1s you need that HJ just posted above good luck
because the three of us are setting here waiting for the next person to reply cant even tell ya how many time I hit refresh to see if there was a new post sorry I couldnt be of help steve hopefully those are the 1s you need that HJ just posted above good luck
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Sounds good to me! I may even be able to hook you up with the correct parts at your local NAPA.Steve2003 wrote:Hj, how about I send you one of the studs and if you think the Moser Engineering ones will work then I can order them.
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Well OK then! Napa's price was about $1.50 a stud, either way I will be saving at least $50.00 and the learning experience is well umm, I guess umm! You guys sure do have a way of getting me to work on my truck myself Actually once I start doing it It's prety cool.
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For those who may be following along here...Steve, you need to find a shop that handles Dorman studs. As near as I can tell the one that matches should be # 610-376
No one here had them in stock to compare for sure. They run $1.50 each.
No one here had them in stock to compare for sure. They run $1.50 each.
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HJ
What places are you looking at for them that say they are out of stock? I've been checking with speciality wheel shops and they've been telling me to check automotive part stores, NAPA, Kragen, Autozone etc. Someone told me to check a place called Inland Wheel & Tire. I went there and they told me they don't deal with wheel studs. As I was walking out the door the guy there, Justin, remembered my truck because I bought my wheels from them and said, "hey wait a minute" and told me about a Fab shop in Grand Terrace Calif. Justin told me they have every kind of wheel spacer and wheel studs that are made. He said just grab my spacers/adapters and take them over there and he guaranteed they would find studs and press them in for me. I haven't been able to get off work early enough this week so I am going to try Saturday. I have a funny feeling that this place makes wheel adapters.
What places are you looking at for them that say they are out of stock? I've been checking with speciality wheel shops and they've been telling me to check automotive part stores, NAPA, Kragen, Autozone etc. Someone told me to check a place called Inland Wheel & Tire. I went there and they told me they don't deal with wheel studs. As I was walking out the door the guy there, Justin, remembered my truck because I bought my wheels from them and said, "hey wait a minute" and told me about a Fab shop in Grand Terrace Calif. Justin told me they have every kind of wheel spacer and wheel studs that are made. He said just grab my spacers/adapters and take them over there and he guaranteed they would find studs and press them in for me. I haven't been able to get off work early enough this week so I am going to try Saturday. I have a funny feeling that this place makes wheel adapters.
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We have a bearing and hydraulic shop that stocks quite a few wheel studs. Their inventory is dwindling though since the minimum order is now well beyond what their entire inventory consists of. The Auto parts store next door stocks some Dorman hardware, but not much. They assured me that they could have them next day or sooner from Boise though.Steve2003 wrote:What places are you looking at for them that say they are out of stock?
NAPA does not list them. Their selection is very limited. Mostly popular OEM studs.
I did not search for very long. If I needed them, I would order them from the first auto parts store that I mentioned, and still can if you need them.
This town is really frustrating. It has anything you want if you can wait for them to get it in for you. Basically a mail order town.
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I take it they never e-mailed you back? I'm surprised that you are having such a hard time finding the right studs. I can think of several places nearby that sell a huge assortment of wheel studs like Pep Boys, Bert Williams, and TEM. All 3 of these stores have a large selection of wheel studs.Steve2003 wrote:I'm prety sure I got them from completevalue. I sent him a email to see if he had the studs or if he new where to get them.
Steve
Your right they never didkillian96ss wrote:I take it they never e-mailed you back?
I have not checked there but I don't see them being much help either. They're just like the rest of the dumb A$$ auto parts stores. If you don't have a vehicle or a part number that they can look on the computer they are lost , but I'll give it a shot.killian96ss wrote:I can think of several places nearby that sell a huge assortment of wheel studs like Pep Boys
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The 3 places I listed have steel slide out bins where you can search for the right stud or part # yourself. I never rely on the idiots who claim to be parts specialists.Steve2003 wrote:They're just like the rest of the dumb A$$ auto parts stores. If you don't have a vehicle or a part number that they can look on the computer they are lost , but I'll give it a shot.
Steve
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That Dorman wheel stud is a bit unusual in that the shoulder comes up higher than most and is a larger diameter. The closest NAPA had was a clip head M12-1.5 13.90mm 49mm 15mm #641-1634
That Dorman number should be a better match though (610-376)
They are not impossible to get. Like I said , I could have them in a day, so others should be able to do so as well.
That Dorman number should be a better match though (610-376)
They are not impossible to get. Like I said , I could have them in a day, so others should be able to do so as well.
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Hj, you nailed it! Dorman # 610-376 is almost a excact fit about a P hair off. I took one stud and one adapter and the very important part # to my local Napa and they matched them up They only had 5 in stock but will have the other 5 monday.HenryJ wrote:For those who may be following along here...Steve, you need to find a shop that handles Dorman studs. As near as I can tell the one that matches should be # 610-376
No one here had them in stock to compare for sure. They run $1.50 each.
Thanks for your reaserch
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Woo Hoo!
Glad it all worked out for you!
Do you want me to mail that stud back to you, or archive it?
Glad it all worked out for you!
Do you want me to mail that stud back to you, or archive it?
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
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Will do!
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BFH, improvised punch and makeshift anvil...fantastic job!
You are doing a great job and saving enough that you better take the loved ones out to dinner with the savings
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
I got the other 5 studs monday and installed them into the wheel adapters and put the wheel adapters on my truck. It all worked out really well Anywho! Dwight Long from completevalue responded to my email today.
He was wrong about the cost of the studs but a nice offerDwight Long wrote:Best I could do is sell you a new pair of spacers for half price + $10 shipping. That's probably about as cheap as replacement studs anyway. Let me know what thickness you need and I'll send you an invoice.
thanks
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Hmmm, anybody need a set of spacers?
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If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
That's what I was thinking Half price but double shipping charges. It would still be a good deal! Hurry now anyone, while the deal is on the tableHenryJ wrote:Hmmm, anybody need a set of spacers?
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3 inch rears if, no one has pmed you already
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Ok, Reed I sent him a email and told him to send me a invoice for 3 inch wheel adapters/spacers I will let you know when he gets back to me.f9k9 wrote:3 inch rears if, no one has pmed you already
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Are you sure? That puts you really out there. You have wheels with 4 3/4" rearspacing. Add the 3" spacers and you're down to 1 3/4" rear spacing.f9k9 wrote:3 inch rears if, no one has pmed you already
I am running 3" spacers on 6" rear spaced wheels. That puts me at 3" rear spacing.
No spacers on the front , and 2" spacers on the rear would be a pretty good match.
You may know exactly what you are wanting. If you're adding the 1 1/4" spacers to the front and 3" to the rear with the wheels you have you will be wide. That may be what you are after. Just want to make sure your eyes are wide open. There may be clearance issues?
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Have 2 " on rears now and they look lost. The 1.25" on front is even with flares. Can post photos tomorrow. I think you have my wheels confused with cragars but, maybe not. I thought I had 5" backspacing.HenryJ wrote:Are you sure? That puts you really out there. You have wheels with 4 3/4" rearspacing. Add the 3" spacers and you're down to 1 3/4" rear spacing.f9k9 wrote:3 inch rears if, no one has pmed you already
I am running 3" spacers on 6" rear spaced wheels. That puts me at 3" rear spacing.
No spacers on the front , and 2" spacers on the rear would be a pretty good match.
You may know exactly what you are wanting. If you're adding the 1 1/4" spacers to the front and 3" to the rear with the wheels you have you will be wide. That may be what you are after. Just want to make sure your eyes are wide open. There may be clearance issues?
Anyway, Steve was nice enough to email the seller already and I guess, I'll just see what looks best. I can always resell them with Steve having first dibs.
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f9k9 wrote:...Have 2 " on rears now and they look lost.
Just making sure. We all need to take care of our elderly forgetful members
(hopefully someone is looking out for me )
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Someone needs to look out for us bothHenryJ wrote:f9k9 wrote:...Have 2 " on rears now and they look lost.
Just making sure. We all need to take care of our elderly forgetful members
(hopefully someone is looking out for me )
Other than finishing touches on the flares, sliders, restoring my e-brake, and solving my starting problems, I was concerned about mod withdrawl complications.
BTW, I can only find your BFGs at summit but, I may be searching incorrectly. Mrs Hoff has already predicted a jorney for me to get the tires not unlike the hood
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I picked up my spare BFG locally from a dealer. It has a full road hazard warranty. Now if I can just remember which one that was In a five tire rotation, it is kind of like a shell game
Summit's price is hard to beat. Mounting a dismounting my own saves quite a bit.
Summit's price is hard to beat. Mounting a dismounting my own saves quite a bit.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
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OK, we learned you could sew when you made the bed cover. Do you have a spin balancer laying around too?HenryJ wrote:................. Mounting a dismounting my own saves quite a bit.
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
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