How-to change the PITA #3 spark plug

[rlith]

So many threads have gotten started asking how to change the #3 plug because the intermediate shaft is in the way. "Typically" people say to wedge the socket on, use a wobble, this that an the other thing. They end up fighting with something they don't have to.

So I've decided to show the "EASIEST" way to change the #3 spark plug, (It is by no means the only way). My how-to can be done in about 5 minutes.

Tools needed.
11mm socket
Socket Wrench
2 or 3 Extensions
Flathead screw driver (or prybar if rusty)


Step 1: Turn your wheels straight and leave the ignition key forward enough to keep the steering wheel unlocked.

Step 2: Open the rag joint cover at the base of the intermediate steering shaft.

Step 3: Remove the 11mm bolt at the base of the intermeiate

Here in the picture we see the plastic rag joint cover. The red arrow points to the circled 11mm bolt that has to be removed.



Here is a pic of the bolt removed



Step 4: Use a large flat head screw driver at the base and pry outwards. The steering shaft will start telescoping in on itself. (If your intermediate shaft is a bit rusty, simply spray the shaft with wd40 or similar and use a prybar instead of the screwdriver. Don't worry about prying to hard, the shaft can take a lot. )



Step 5: Lift Steering shaft out of the way (don't worry, the top is fairly mobile)



Do not worry about how you put the shaft back on. The shaft and the splines on the steering box are keyed. (Meaning it only goes on one way) Avoid spinning your steering wheel all the way around though. You don't want to bust the clock spring in the steering wheel.



Here we now see the # 3 plug fully accesable. Simply use a couple of extensions and a spark plug socket to remove.



When putting in new spark plugs, even if you are told they are pre-gapped, take no chances. Check your gap with a gap tool. It's a .25 cent tool, get one! Also you can spread anti-seize on the threads of the sparkplug so you don't have difficulty later. Also use dialectric grease inside the plug boots. This way you won't have a prob when you need to pull them off later and it will create a better contact between the wire and the plug.

Here is a shot of the AC-Delco Rapidfires that I installed. Note the gold tone, that is the anti-seize.



Total time to change all 6 plugs was 20 minutes. This includes collapsing and reinstalling the intermediate shaft. This way you don't have to worry about trying to work other tools in there.

[S10CREW01]

WOW I just got my rig only a few months ago and can't wait to do this Thanks for all the helpfull info.

[SONOMA915]

Great info, I'm sure I'll be using tis method. I'll probably mark the steering shaft, just in case.

[HenryJ]

Those who have done a 2" body lift will find that there is room to get a socket on the plug and with a wobble extension , or universal, it is easily removable.
Some will find that a socket and an end wrench works.

The above method with disconnection of the steering shaft can be used if you are not able to get a socket onto the sparkplug.

If you do disconnect the steering shaft, make sure that the bolt is tightened on the clamp and the coupler is not pushed down to the point of rubbing the steering box seal. I have seen a couple where there was enough slack to have the coupler rubbing this seal. Be sure to use locktight on the bolt and torque as recommended.

Oh, It turns out Snap-on makes a socket just for our #3 spark plug:
Socket, Spark Plug, Offset, 5/8", 12-point Stock#: S9723 $29.95

5/8" offset spark plug socket for limited access situations. Remove/install the spark plug on the #3 cylinder without interference from the steering column on GM 4.3L V6 engines used in GMC Jimmys, Chevy Blazers, S10 and S15 Pick-up trucks (1994 to 2004) plus Oldsmobile Bravadas (1996 to 2001). Use with 11" extension. 12-Point, Flank Drive wrenching system. Industrial black finish. 1 1/2" length, 1 3/4" height. 3/8" drive.