Tune up
Moderator: F9K9
Tune up
My 2001 crew is now just over 70k and I was thinking about bringing it in to the dealer for a tune up. It’s been idling a bit rough from time to time, the engine light was coming on and off a couple weeks ago (and has been off since) and I’m getting a couple small drops of red stuff on the garage floor. Since I’m taking it in for the leak I figured why not get a whole tune up done. Basically I’m going to make a “to-do” list for the dealer and let them go to town (trouble I know).
Do you guys have any suggestions on what I should have done?
I was thinking plugs, cap and rotor, coolant flush, update the transfer case switch, change the drive train fluids. I already upgraded my wires to a set of MSD’s at 50k. I also just replaced the brakes and the front wheel bearings and every seal between the rear axle and the transmission, and those crap tailgate cables. I’m big into preventative maintenance when practical so basically I’m asking if anyone had any tips for what I should be doing around 70k.
Do you guys have any suggestions on what I should have done?
I was thinking plugs, cap and rotor, coolant flush, update the transfer case switch, change the drive train fluids. I already upgraded my wires to a set of MSD’s at 50k. I also just replaced the brakes and the front wheel bearings and every seal between the rear axle and the transmission, and those crap tailgate cables. I’m big into preventative maintenance when practical so basically I’m asking if anyone had any tips for what I should be doing around 70k.
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- HenryJ
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Sounds like you have a pretty good plan.
Cap, rotor, plugs, fuel filter, coolant flush, transmission service, change t-case and axles inspect rodends , CV and U-joints, check brakes, test battery, rotate tires. Sounds like the full meal deal. They may have a "XX" point inspection service package that they can do for a reduced price?
If you have a good relationship with your service tech, use his judgement. The ignition service is certianly due. Then ask about the other items and see what he/she suggests be done.
Areas , climates, driving habits really change the lifespan of fluids and components.
My warm dry climate has really low humidity. Moisture contamination is not an issue unless I go pond skipping. We rarely have more than a couple weeks of really hot weather, so thermal breakdown is not as prevalent.
A good local service tech will know what NEEDS attention, and what still has useful life.
Cap, rotor, plugs, fuel filter, coolant flush, transmission service, change t-case and axles inspect rodends , CV and U-joints, check brakes, test battery, rotate tires. Sounds like the full meal deal. They may have a "XX" point inspection service package that they can do for a reduced price?
If you have a good relationship with your service tech, use his judgement. The ignition service is certianly due. Then ask about the other items and see what he/she suggests be done.
Areas , climates, driving habits really change the lifespan of fluids and components.
My warm dry climate has really low humidity. Moisture contamination is not an issue unless I go pond skipping. We rarely have more than a couple weeks of really hot weather, so thermal breakdown is not as prevalent.
A good local service tech will know what NEEDS attention, and what still has useful life.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
Yeah. I would do all those things you mentioned. No question. But I would also get rid of those stock shocks if you still have them. They are definately junk! But why would you even CONSIDER taking this work to the dealer??? They will most likely rip you off BIG time! Why not do some or all of the work yourself? I did! I am about the furthest thing you could possibly find from a mechanic! It really was easy!
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- killian96ss
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Are you sure you want to pay the dealer to do a tune up? They are probably going to charge you an unbelievable amount of money to do so. A tune up is not all that hard to do your self, and the money saved could be used for other mods. You definitely need to find out why your SES light has been on and off lately. You will more than likely have a code stored even if the light is now off. The red stuff is probably from the transmission, however it could also be the t-case since it uses ATF as well. I'm sure this is also something you could fix yourself for much less money. The things I would do if you haven't already done so would be the fluids in the trans, front & rear diffs, and t-case along with the tune up and other things you mentioned. I would also clean and/or replace the air filter, clean the MAF sensors, and the throttle body. When they do the coolant flush it would be a good idea to switch to green. I'm sure there is something I'm missing, but somebody will probably add more to the list.
Steve
Steve
Thanks for all of the tips. I knew I’d get some heat about going to the dealer. The only reason I was thinking about the dealer is because I wanted to have them track down the leak and the SES code. Plus when it comes down to it, I get paid more for an hour of OT at work then it cost to have the dealer work on it for an hour. Then you add in that it will take me twice as long, it just doesn’t make sense for me right now. I do think they have an xx inspection / tune up package deal or something. I also have a bunch of coupons for whatever they are worth. It’s a sad fact since I do like to work on my truck myself.
I have already upgraded the shocks at around 50k per advice I read here. Rancho RSX’s, very nice upgrade. Also upgraded the intake and air filter which I cleaned in June. The transmission, transfer case and differential fluids I change every other fall. It’s due this fall. I’m definitely considering switching to the green antifreeze based on what I’ve read here.
So my list is:
Fix SES light issue
Fix red stuff leak
Plugs, Rotor, Cap
Fuel Filter (do that every fall anyway)
Coolant Flush (maybe switch to green)
Tranny Service/fluid change
Transfercase & f/r diff. fluid change
Rotate tires
Thanks everyone for the advice, is there anything else I’m missing?
I have already upgraded the shocks at around 50k per advice I read here. Rancho RSX’s, very nice upgrade. Also upgraded the intake and air filter which I cleaned in June. The transmission, transfer case and differential fluids I change every other fall. It’s due this fall. I’m definitely considering switching to the green antifreeze based on what I’ve read here.
So my list is:
Fix SES light issue
Fix red stuff leak
Plugs, Rotor, Cap
Fuel Filter (do that every fall anyway)
Coolant Flush (maybe switch to green)
Tranny Service/fluid change
Transfercase & f/r diff. fluid change
Rotate tires
Thanks everyone for the advice, is there anything else I’m missing?
[size=75]No more CrewCab. Now driving 2007 Hummer H3, 5-speed, 35" Toyo Open Country MT's, PIAA in the driving lights. [/size]
- HenryJ
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Test the battery condition. The dealer should have a tester that will REALLY check the condition. Not just one of those load testers.
Batteries rarely go more than five years. If yours is still stock, it's condition needs to be scrutinized before the cold weather hits.
Batteries rarely go more than five years. If yours is still stock, it's condition needs to be scrutinized before the cold weather hits.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
WOAH! I'm pretty sure mine doesn't do that, but I wish it did. I'll find out tomorrow, I'm planning on resetting it back to stock. Does that clear out any previous codes?
I'll add a battery test to my list.
I'll add a battery test to my list.
[size=75]No more CrewCab. Now driving 2007 Hummer H3, 5-speed, 35" Toyo Open Country MT's, PIAA in the driving lights. [/size]
- HenryJ
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The new versions of the HPPIII do read and clear DTC's. GM feature chart
Mine was pre-DTC so it doesn't.
Mine was pre-DTC so it doesn't.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- F9K9
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MY '02 HPPIII doesn't read or clear codes either. It makes the price increase on newer ones a little easier to swallow.
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- killian96ss
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n0m4d, I also have the HPPIII part # 30023 and mine also reads DTC's. Mine does this exactly the way jeff024 described his. It searches for codes before it lets you start the HPPIII program or set the truck back to stock, however the HPPIII for my 96 SS doesn't do this, so I guess there was an add on date for the DTC reader at some time.
Steve
Steve