High output alternator 200amps

Justin · Post by **Justin** » Mon Mar 03, 2003 11:00 am

alterstart

Made the looong addy a link-HJ

will I need to buy the additional plug and additional wire?

Conman · Post by **Conman** » Mon Mar 03, 2003 11:08 am

Justin wrote:

will I need to buy the additional plug and additional wire?

I think the plug and wire is to replace the factory stuff with larger ones. I would recommend doing this to get the best bang out of the new unit.

Let us know how it works.

Cheers,

Con

Warnoffroad · Post by **Warnoffroad** » Mon Mar 03, 2003 3:38 pm

How hard and how much time would it take? I need a better one, because my winch eats up ALOT of power.

Justin · Post by **Justin** » Mon Mar 03, 2003 8:38 pm

these guys at an s-10 forum said its not hard at all...I am just wondering how the amperage of the guage will read , whether it will be higher than 14 (normal) and go in the red zone of the guage....these guys said that it works real well..one said he has had it for 2 years and no complaints..probably a 20-40 minute install...I have replaced one on a 94 jimmy....I think all u do is releave the tension in the belt, disconnect all wiring and remove...

Justin · Post by **Justin** » Mon Mar 03, 2003 8:39 pm

I am also replacing my battery with an optima yellow top deep cell battery..should be akiller combination

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Mar 03, 2003 9:07 pm

Justin wrote:I am also replacing my battery with an optima yellow top deep cell battery....

Just thought I'd question why the deep cycle?

Some words of caution, and a little (maybe very little) information.

The deep cycle battery (yellow top) is designed for a long draw down, like running the stereo without the engine running or running a winch without the engine running. They are the battery of choice for an RV with lights TV etc. They tend to have a better reserve capacity at the expense of CCA (Cold Cranking Amps). These need a long slow charge for maximum lifespan.

The regular (Red top) is designed for short duration hard cranking (CCA). It is harder to draw down, but doesn't last as long , and recovers quickly when given a hard charge.

Our alternators today, are being pushed to their limits with all the electronics. The alternator is designed to handle a specific load and maintain the battery. They are not designed to charge a dead battery.

Running with a weak or discharged battery will cause the alternator to heat and drastically reduce the life. They are designed to re-charge the battery hard and fast allowing time to cool before the next high demand.

By running a deep cycle battery you may run the risk of reduced service life for the stock alternator, not to mention the life of the deep cycle battery, since it is not being charged long and slow.

If you truly need the long reserve capacity of a deep cycle, that is what they are designed for, go for it.

You also might consider looking for a regular battery with enough reserve capacity to meet your needs.

Just food for thought.

seapahn · Post by **seapahn** » Mon Mar 03, 2003 10:35 pm

Well, that's why I got 2 batteries!!!! A yellow top and another deep cycle oddyssee which is always being charged in the blazer. If my alt fails, I got a 200 AMP powermaster unit sitting in the garage that I can swap in (just too lazy for now)

... I used that alt for a while in my old blazer since my electric fan needed a LOT of juice to run and it was killing my stock alternator. As far as my stereo, the 1F cap helped a LOT. I highly recommend getting a cap if you have some external amplifiers.

By the way, I run the yellow top as my main battery since when camping I don't have to worry about it draining ... I just run lights and stereo and stuff without worries. If it drains, I always have the backup one to get things going.

I had a comment about this alternator posted above ... when they say "200 AMP" alternator, it doesn't mean ANYTHING. that 200 amp could be at 6000 RPM which of course is useless to us. We need to know 3 things:

1) Output at idle (~700 RPM)

2) Output at cruising (~2000 RPM)

3) Max output ... which for us is I guess 4000-5000 RPM.

Mine came tested with putting out 130 amp at 2000 RPM and 238 AMP at 4000 RPM which I consider pretty good. I doubt that alternator puts out anywhere near 200 AMP at 2000 RPM which is what it's going to be operated at most of the time.

Plus, don't be surprised with an alternator like this if your voltage drops down when you are sitting at an intersection idleing

Note: I am NOT saying this one is good or bad ... just saying I would ask for more info before buying.

Justin · Post by **Justin** » Tue Mar 04, 2003 6:59 am

Here is the thread to the other forum

http://www.s-seriesforum.com/forum/show ... adid=37375

I stopped into a car-audio shop this morning and they said that a 200amp alternator would cost me around $560 not installed...I will email the guys at alterstart for additional information regarding their product and post a reply asap.

Justin · Post by **Justin** » Tue Mar 04, 2003 7:12 am

110amp at idle 800 rpm.......

200amp at 4000 rpm.....

seapahn · Post by **seapahn** » Tue Mar 04, 2003 1:09 pm

4Wheel Parts has the powermaster ones now ... for about $400 HERE. I think I paid about $300 for mine, ordering directly from powermaster about 4 years ago. Their tech guy was really helpful with some questions I had ... also, the first one they sent me didn't put out enough at idle so I had to send it back and they sent me a better one.

I would say only replace your alt if you are having problems with it ... if you have a big stereo setup, first add a capacitor which is much cheaper.

Justin · Post by **Justin** » Wed Mar 05, 2003 8:12 pm

I ordered the alternator, bought a yellowtop (it was clear to me to do so seing how I have a high powered stereo and 4 KC's) and I bought 2 battery capacitors for each of my stereo amplifiers (each have 16 guage runoffs for my KC lights. This will stop the dimming of my headlights when the stereo is loud, stop the whining noise out of my speakers and i will be able to mount up to 8 Lights ) ~ thats what the guy said

the guy was an electrical wiz so I trust him..I'm off to Houston TX for a week so after that I'll install..I will keep everyone posted on how Veronica performs

EDWRDM · Post by **EDWRDM** » Thu Mar 06, 2003 6:28 pm

Justin wrote:these guys at an s-10 forum said its not hard at all...I am just wondering how the amperage of the guage will read , whether it will be higher than 14 (normal) and go in the red zone of the guage....these guys said that it works real well..one said he has had it for 2 years and no complaints..probably a 20-40 minute install...I have replaced one on a 94 jimmy....I think all u do is releave the tension in the belt, disconnect all wiring and remove...

The gauge reads VOLTS and shouldn't appear any different with a higher output alternator.

S-10CREWCAB.NET

High output alternator 200amps

High output alternator 200amps

Re: High output alternator 200amps