aftermarket shocks
Moderator: F9K9
aftermarket shocks
i was reading the mod info page and under "aftermarket shocks" it said that crew cab stock shocks were worthless after 10k mile. why is that are they really that bad. How many of yall replaced yours.
red 02 crew cab, blacked out windows, remington mud brutes, 2 10" audiobahn subs, skid plate, hi-lift jack
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I hated mine when I got it with 600 miles on it. The shocks before my 3rd fillup but, I had traded a ZR2 for my crew and was spoiled.
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
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- HenryJ
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I had two sets replaced under warranty. The stock shocks literally cost GM .99 and they will warranty them until expiration. I would bet that if you check yours , at least one is leaking already. This is not normal no matter what they might try to tell you.
My wife never liked the ride quality of the stock shocks, she felt car sick while riding. I really didn't notice it until I replaced them with some good shocks (Bilstein's).
Shocks are the first and best thing that you can do. These come stock with way less than acceptable shocks.
My wife never liked the ride quality of the stock shocks, she felt car sick while riding. I really didn't notice it until I replaced them with some good shocks (Bilstein's).
Shocks are the first and best thing that you can do. These come stock with way less than acceptable shocks.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
I know that there has been a TON of posts about shocks and that Bilsteins are viewed as the best. The thing is, I really don't wanna give $240 them! It's just out of my budget, plain & simple. Is there a "second best" out there? I heard some of you suggest the Ranchos. Are they priced any better? I guess I'm looking for a moderately priced shock and understand that I'll only get moderate performance from them. I just need something better than the stockers.
Oh yeah. And is the set up the same as an extended cab for shocks? Knowing that may make my search a little easier.
Oh yeah. And is the set up the same as an extended cab for shocks? Knowing that may make my search a little easier.
[size=75]"As I said before, I never repeat myself!"[/size]
I suggest the Rancho RS5000's all 4 shocks for me was about $165.00(this is assuming you will be putting them on yourself). I do think the extended cab shocks are the same(ZR2's different?) as the crew's. As for the RS5000's I like them they give my crew a nice firm ride.
[size=75]2003 S-10 Crewcab Dark Metallic Green*Hidden Hitch Class 3 Trailer Hitch*Monro SensaTracs*Airaid Intake*Poweraid TBS*Custom Dual Exhaust*Tranny Cooler*Buffalo Stainless Step Bars*Hunter Grill Brush Guard*Delta Diamond Plate Tool Box*Bed Rhino Lined*APC Clear Corners*Hi Beam Mod*LT235/75/15 BFG All Terrains*Full Skid Plates with Transfer Case Done by SkidZ.[/size]
- HenryJ
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Second best and affordable? That is a good question.
I can't say I have a very good answer. Any gas charged shock absorber will be better than the stock shocks.
Do your research and taylor them to your driving. Most shocks do not do a very good job of offering excellent offroad performance/durability and still have good highway/street characteristics. An offroad shock gets pounded in and out for long periods. It needs to handle the rough without beating everything to pieces. This builds heat. So a concern here would be shock fade. You don't want a shock that rides really rough, and only rides nice after you have enough heat to fade. That is a race shock.
A good highway shock doesn't build as much heat. It needs to smooth the road and offer some resistance to body roll during evasive maneuvers. It needs to be soft for cruising, yet firm in a hard corner.
Some of the things to consider:
Oil volume- more is better
Reservoir design: monotube cools better since all the oil is in contact with the cooling surface.
These two have trade offs. A dual tube designed shock will have more oil, but sacrifices the cooling of the monotube design.
Valving- Springs weaken over time. Those that do not have springs last longer. The more springs that a shock has the lower the longevity.
Adjustable valving is fun for a few days. After they are where you are comfortable, it is likely you'll never use that adjustability again.
Piston rod- A durable finish is desireable and bigger is better.
Reservoir position- Up is better. The debris can not sit in the seals and the reservoir is higher to avoid damage.
Shielding- Plastic for sure. The metal shields tend to crack loose and rattle as well as rub the reservoir. Convoluted boots are the better choice.
These are just my opinions. I'm sure there are some points that I missed.
I can't say I have a very good answer. Any gas charged shock absorber will be better than the stock shocks.
Do your research and taylor them to your driving. Most shocks do not do a very good job of offering excellent offroad performance/durability and still have good highway/street characteristics. An offroad shock gets pounded in and out for long periods. It needs to handle the rough without beating everything to pieces. This builds heat. So a concern here would be shock fade. You don't want a shock that rides really rough, and only rides nice after you have enough heat to fade. That is a race shock.
A good highway shock doesn't build as much heat. It needs to smooth the road and offer some resistance to body roll during evasive maneuvers. It needs to be soft for cruising, yet firm in a hard corner.
Some of the things to consider:
Oil volume- more is better
Reservoir design: monotube cools better since all the oil is in contact with the cooling surface.
These two have trade offs. A dual tube designed shock will have more oil, but sacrifices the cooling of the monotube design.
Valving- Springs weaken over time. Those that do not have springs last longer. The more springs that a shock has the lower the longevity.
Adjustable valving is fun for a few days. After they are where you are comfortable, it is likely you'll never use that adjustability again.
Piston rod- A durable finish is desireable and bigger is better.
Reservoir position- Up is better. The debris can not sit in the seals and the reservoir is higher to avoid damage.
Shielding- Plastic for sure. The metal shields tend to crack loose and rattle as well as rub the reservoir. Convoluted boots are the better choice.
These are just my opinions. I'm sure there are some points that I missed.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
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I put Monroe Sensatracs on my truck after 25k miles and they handle and ride much better than the stockers (I think thats a given for any replacement to the stockers ) When I took them out on the track (yes in the CC) they handled wonderfully and controlled body motion rather well.
[size=75]2003 Indigo Blue Crew Cab - EFILive custom tune, K&N filter, Magnaflow Exhaust, Rear sway bar, ZR5 wheels w/ BFG 30x9.5x15 AllTerrains
Future mods:
Single 6.5" Bazooka behind the backseat[/size]
Future mods:
Single 6.5" Bazooka behind the backseat[/size]
Yeah, I don't do any off roading to speak of. Although I WANT TO BADLY and given the chance I would!!!! All my driving is paved surfaces. So I don't think I need anything heavy duty. Just something that will make the CC ride more like a truck. And, of coarse, be durable.
[size=75]"As I said before, I never repeat myself!"[/size]
- HenryJ
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If you are shopping for Bilstein's I would recommend trying ORW they frequently offer free shipping on Bilstein shocks.
There must be some sort of manufacturer price fixing since the prices seem to be the same everywhere at $59.99 each.
It is hard to swallow spending $240 for shocks, but they are truly a lifetime shock.
However for someone who may not be keeping their truck "long term" it is reasonable to find "second best" at a more affordable price.
No answers yet, but some one will find the right answer
There must be some sort of manufacturer price fixing since the prices seem to be the same everywhere at $59.99 each.
It is hard to swallow spending $240 for shocks, but they are truly a lifetime shock.
However for someone who may not be keeping their truck "long term" it is reasonable to find "second best" at a more affordable price.
No answers yet, but some one will find the right answer
Last edited by HenryJ on Wed Jun 28, 2006 3:42 am, edited 3 times in total.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
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- HenryJ
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If you are refering to OEM-Bistein's then , Yes.Tribecrist wrote:Ok should I buy OEM ? Whats the differance between s-10 w/ zr2 or s-10 w/o zr2...
The RPO ZR2 shocks are longer due to the change in suspension mounting points.
This thread might be worth a look too- Bilstein Shocks
In checking that thread, I see that Performance Products might be a good place to look.
I bought the heavy duty front and rear shocks.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
No one's mentioned ProComp shocks, so I guess I'll throw my 2cents in. I've never owned Bilsteins or Rancho's, so I have no basis on which to compare shocks, but I'll give you my opinion.
I bought my ES9000 shocks for about $35 per shock. The front rides about the same as stock to me, but the rear is a bit stiff. It does ride more like a truck though, and swaying is greatly minimized. Body roll in curves is reduced as well. All in all, if you want a set of cheap shocks, I think the ES9000's are a good choice. But again, like someone said above, your shock selection should depend on your tastes as far as ride comfort, handling, etc...
I bought my ES9000 shocks for about $35 per shock. The front rides about the same as stock to me, but the rear is a bit stiff. It does ride more like a truck though, and swaying is greatly minimized. Body roll in curves is reduced as well. All in all, if you want a set of cheap shocks, I think the ES9000's are a good choice. But again, like someone said above, your shock selection should depend on your tastes as far as ride comfort, handling, etc...
--Walt
2001 S-10 CrewCab - Retired...
2001 S-10 CrewCab - Retired...
Thinking I might go with these.
Just cause they are RED like my CC!
$146 plus a $12.95 handling fee from this place.
Just cause they are RED like my CC!
$146 plus a $12.95 handling fee from this place.
[size=75]"As I said before, I never repeat myself!"[/size]
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No diffrence shock wise for your '04 than earlier crews.
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
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Must be a CC wife's requirementbarch97 wrote:If Mrs Rusty drives anything like Mrs Barch, she'll never miss the turn signals or mirrors.
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
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- HenryJ
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Funny you should mention that I just finished installing an amplified sub in my wife's carRusty wrote:...Just about nothing else matters, as long as she can blast her tunes.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- adrenalnjunky
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One thing to mention - my Blazer and most ofther 4x4 Blazers I see have OEM Bilsteins - might be worth checking a local salvage yard - bet you could pull a set for no more than $50.HenryJ wrote:If you are refering to OEM-Bistein's then , Yes.Tribecrist wrote:Ok should I buy OEM ? Whats the differance between s-10 w/ zr2 or s-10 w/o zr2...
The RPO ZR2 shocks are longer due to the change in suspension mounting points.
This thread might be worth a look too- Bilstein Shocks
In checking that thread, I see that Performance Products might be a good place to look.
I bought the heavy duty front and rear shocks.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
Yeah my wifes has factory Bilsteins...maybe I should make a switch??? She'd never know...hehe....but I think I like the red of the Ranchos....man I need more money (and more time)....for modding.adrenalnjunky wrote:One thing to mention - my Blazer and most ofther 4x4 Blazers I see have OEM Bilsteins - might be worth checking a local salvage yard - bet you could pull a set for no more than $50.
i was told by my wife to stay away from her car when selling stuff. Honda stuff has gotta go, no more extras.Rusty wrote:Hmmm, I wonder if I can get away with selling parts off my wife's car to get that lift kit I want?tzdevill wrote:just sold a trans out of my car so i can half way fford shocks for the truck.