Hey everybody!
For the last few days I've noticed that after I turn my truck off, I hear the sound of liquid boiling or bubbling. I know better than to take the radiator cap off to check it, so I'm just assuming it's coming from the radiator.
I'm fairly sure that this isn't normal, but I keep my levels checked and my engine temp guage seems to work, but rarely get's over 210 or so unless I let it idle for a long time. BTW, I have the stock T-stat.
Peace!
The sound of fluid boiling/bubbling
Moderator: F9K9
The sound of fluid boiling/bubbling
--Walt
2001 S-10 CrewCab - Retired...
2001 S-10 CrewCab - Retired...
- HenryJ
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How's your dex?
You may have air trapped in the heater core? I have heard tales of those who heard gurgling, and noises to be followed by the core plugging, engine over heating, heater quit working, water pump failure, etc.
Might be time to flush and refill?
I KNOW you're not still using the stock radiator cap, RIGHT?
You may have air trapped in the heater core? I have heard tales of those who heard gurgling, and noises to be followed by the core plugging, engine over heating, heater quit working, water pump failure, etc.
Might be time to flush and refill?
I KNOW you're not still using the stock radiator cap, RIGHT?
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- HenryJ
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It needs to be changed last year!
The stock cap has more than a few problems, and leads to the early demise of the dex.
The cap has a fiberous gasket. This alone does not promote a good seal. The inside diameter of said gasket is nearly the same as the outside diameter of the radiators raised sealing surface. When the gasket shrinks a little and slides off center air can enter the system and as it cools the fluid is not recovered from the expansion tank.
Now to the valve design. It is not spring loaded. This too contributes the the entrance of air in the system.
Check out this thread- Radiator Cap
The stock cap has more than a few problems, and leads to the early demise of the dex.
The cap has a fiberous gasket. This alone does not promote a good seal. The inside diameter of said gasket is nearly the same as the outside diameter of the radiators raised sealing surface. When the gasket shrinks a little and slides off center air can enter the system and as it cools the fluid is not recovered from the expansion tank.
Now to the valve design. It is not spring loaded. This too contributes the the entrance of air in the system.
Check out this thread- Radiator Cap
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- adrenalnjunky
- Crew Elite
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- Location: West Monroe, Louisiana
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One other - if it's more of a sizzling sound - my AC condenser drips water on my exhaust or something when parked and hot.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
- HenryJ
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radiator flushing at 37k?
HenryJ wrote:...The overflow/expansion tank did have some "muddy like" sediment in the lowest portion. This is why you must pull the tank and clean it.
I can only surmise that it may have been as result of the presence of residual dexcool in the system.
I drained the radiator then, after running the engine and flushing until the system ran clear, this time I pulled block water jacket plug. This is behind and below the left side freeze plug. Where the stock freeze plug heater is located. I found that an 18" 3/8" drive extension, universal, 14mm socket and rachet worked the easiest. I inserted it between the frame and torsion bar from behind the front suspension. It came out pretty easily, and did drain almost another gallon. Be sure to use some thread sealant before reinstalling.
I added a bottle of Redline Water Wetter, a gallon of green and a gallon of distilled water. Then filled the expansion tank with about three quarts of 50/50 mix.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- adrenalnjunky
- Crew Elite
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- Joined: Sun Jul 27, 2003 11:32 am
- Location: West Monroe, Louisiana
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Yeah - do the flush yourself - it's worth the couple of hours just to have the Preston kit installed - that way it's a much quicker job down the road.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]