Significant Raise in Engine Temperature

[F9K9]

This is a new problem that I discovered today.

I am running a Jet 180° T-Stat

I went to the green coolant last year

Fluid levels are correct, radiator is clean.

I was on a short hop today to go to my vet's office and ran into a store, 10 mins, tops!

When I returned I noticed my temp gauge at about 200° (I left it running for the pup).

I thought, after a few minutes at moving that it would drop back down. 20 minutes later and going approx 55 mph it remained there.

I realize that this does not fit into the "crisis" stage but, are there any possible causes besides radiator obstruction?


The KCs sit exactly at the grille's bowtie emblem width apart.

It is hot for this part of the country but, I was throwing codes a month ago for too cold coolant and now.......well you get the picture.

[HenryJ]

Welcome to the wonderful world of "one thing effects another" , or "one mod deserves another!"

Since it does cool down once you get moving you have determined that it is an airflow problem.
You changed the stat, but the fan engagement has not been changed. The fan clutch does not fully engaged until the 215-235 degree range. That is the kind of pull you need to stay cool while idling with the AC on.
An electric pusher fan might help, but room is tight, and that might be difficult.

My solution to the predicament was to add electric fans to allow me to choose the temperature that they engage. I also have a manual switch for circumstances like you describe.

The next issue that you will find is the inadequacy of the stock cooling system size. This is when it takes too long to cool down even at highway speeds. This is why I added the larger capacity radiator.

Now all this being said don't get too concerned with running 200 degrees. Stock is running 210 on the stock gauge. I know your stat is lower, but you only REALLY need to panic when it boils over. Of course by then it is too late

[top_sgt]

with the outside temp being in the 90's,,,with the AC on...it may run a little warmer as well........i noticed mine was a little under 200 today.....i have no lights up front......................yet!!!!

[F9K9]

.........Since it does cool down once you get moving you have determined that it is an airflow problem

Actually, it never did move back to my "modified" cooling range after driving for 20 minutes. I am sure that I worded that badly in the original post

Understanding the temperature operating range of the fan clutch explains a lot to me but, am still concerned that my temp did not drop after getting rolling.

Many years of being a dog handler with police and or towing packaged SUVs I still searched for shade and popped the hood if I had to leave a partner inside the rig for any lenth of time. If I didn't, the inside temp would almost approach the threshold of activating the temp alarm.

Would a fixed mounted "flex" style fan work?

I guess my next step would be to simply unjack and yank the lights to look at the situation from a diffrent angle or, at least, remove one variable

I was stupidly hoping for someone to say "Pick up a can of that there Sea Foam miracle coolant additive for $3.99"

[RocK]

Ok pick up a can of that miracle sea foam additive and you'll be ok. LOL

[F9K9]

Ok pick up a can of that miracle sea foam additive and you'll be ok. LOL

You gotta part number?

[HenryJ]

...it never did move back to my "modified" cooling range after driving for 20 minutes...concerned that my temp did not drop after getting rolling.

My mistake there. Bigger radiator is the solution for the inability to cool.
Pull the top half of the fan shroud off and you'll see what I mean. I was shocked The stock core is really thin. I was much happier after the installation of the extra capacity radiator.

Would a fixed mounted "flex" style fan work?

It might help, but I'm not convinced it is the answer. It also might be tough to find an adapter to screw it to the waterpump pulley, and I am sure that your mileage would suffer, as well as performance. The stock clutch fan is pretty good.

I guess my next step would be to simply unjack and yank the lights to look at the situation from a diffrent angle or, at least, remove one variable ...

The lights out front are not a restriction. I doubt they would have any effect on the cooling.

[jeff024]

I also have noticed a higher temp since going GREEN I run at 200 more then not and some times reach 210+,wondering if the DEX didnt run cooler.

[HenryJ]

I also have noticed a higher temp since going GREEN I run at 200 more then not and some times reach 210+,wondering if the DEX didnt run cooler.

I doubt it. They both use the same antifreeze/antiboil ingredient ethelyene glycol. The difference is in the corrosion inhibition technology.

Have you added a bottle of Redline's Water Wetter? I am sure you have since it carries Reed's name

This stuff works by breaking the surface tension of water therefore allowing the coolant to transfer heat more readily.

You would be hard pressed to blame this on coolant, but I guess an incorrect mixture could hinder the transfer somewhat. I like to run 50/50 for best all around protection.

[F9K9]

Pull the top half of the fan shroud off and you'll see what I mean. I was shocked Shocked The stock core is really thin. I was much happier after the installation of the extra capacity radiator.

Deep down I thow that a larger radiator is the logical route to take but, since I told Mrs F9K9 last night (while she was working 7 PM-7 AM) that Rudy (the pup) was ready for a night outside his airline crate inside the house and he politely totaled "her" couch (that I was sleeping on) that refraining from expensive mods for a few days might be in my best interest.

Am going to meet "Top" tomorrow, will see how it behaves on the interstate.

[HenryJ]

...a larger radiator is the logical route to take but, ...refraining from expensive mods for a few days might be in my best interest...

Understood.
Try the water wetter, if you haven't already.
See if a local salvage yard would be interested in selling yours , upon removal.
I sold mine for $100.

Shop around at the local shops for one that carries GoDan, ReadyRad , TransPro replacement radiators. People have found them for $150-$180.

In the mean time do pull the top half of the shroud off and check between the AC condenser and radiator for debris. Hose them both out as best you can. Pulling the grille is the easiest way to clean the condenser, but that may not be an option for those with grille guards.

[jeff024]

I put the water wetter in the same day I went green.

[HenryJ]

I put the water wetter in the same day I went green.

I'll admit that I installed the larger radiator and green at the same time, within the first year that I owned mine.

I have flushed and changed more than I can count and have not noticed any increase in temperature. It is possible you are having related issues, but I would eliminate any other possibilities first.

[F9K9]

All good ideas, HJ. Selling the radiator is so obvious that I overlooked it.

The grille/brush guard has got to come off anyway to add braces from the center two bumper bolts to the uprights. The guy I bought it off of didn't send them and probably didn't use them since there was no evidence that the holes were ever used.

AND since I'm going to do that, I may install the radiator cooler

My family's product will be added this morning

I just Froogled the radiator and found it at Rock Auto for under $160 delivered.

[HenryJ]

...I just Froogled the radiator and found it at Rock Auto for under $160 delivered.

That is outstanding!
I paid $200 for mine. I was the "Guinea pig" though and needed to have a convenient method to refuse/return it if it didn't "pan out".

When you pull that grille , clean the condenser out good and check in between.

[Jim]

Does anybody know of a lower temp fan clutch we can put on our trucks? (for those of us with 180 thermostats)

[HenryJ]

Does anybody know of a lower temp fan clutch we can put on our trucks? (for those of us with 180 thermostats)

I did some checking prior to my electric fans installation.
I was unable to find a replacement that varied from the stock unit.
It was very similar to my experiences with the search for a lower temp thermostat.
The first problem you run into is finding someone who can actually find the temperature rating of the clutch. Then their books usually only offer one choice.

For older engines having the four bolt flange it is not too hard to find one with a lower temperature activation. These threaded clutches don't interchange like the old ones.

I will admit that I did get frustrated in my search, and opted for the easy way out by going electric. I really like the adjustability of the electric fans.

[Gonzzo]

If anyone is interested, i own a '03 ZR2 blazer, I switched to WATER WETTER and WATER last summer, i have had NO PROBLEMS. I flushed the whole system and poured in one bottle of water wetter and filled the rest of the system with just water. It did not make the truck run COOLER(the thermostat does that), it did help the truck run at optimum(195*-205*) temperature while being driven daily for my 40(each way) mile commute in 100*+ temps, up a steep pass(6mi. @ 6-7% grade i believe), with the a/c on and doing 65-70mph. Later, i also ran a 180* stat till late fall/early winter, i had to switch back to the 195* stat because the cooler air temps and the cooler stat where making the ecm cough up a ses light(i now know to re-locate the iat thanks to henryj).


Coolant or antyfreeze really only has TWO purposes, yeah, it helps to cool the car but, water takes care of most of that. antifreeze does just what it's name implies, it prevents the WATER in the cooling system from freezing and turning into ICE. The other thing coolant/antifreeze does is lubricate seals and prevent oxidation, but, water wetter and other similar products do that too.

What water wetter does is help the water in the cooling system transfer heat away from the engine better.

You can form your own opinion by researching the product yourself, go to:

www.redlineoil.com

another product i recommend is royal purple's purple ice, go to:

www.royalpurple.com

Keep in mind that if your truck sees temps that could cause the water to freeze, some mixture of antifreeze + water wetter + water will be needed to prevent problems.

IMO, water wetter works just like it says it does. The use of just water in the cooling system might net good results as far as cooling goes but you will get oxydation and eventually a degradation of internal engine components.

Hope this helps.

Gonzzo.

[F9K9]

First off........Welcome to the forum Gonzza

Yeah, I know stictly water and water wetter, in some applications, is the way to go (just to bring you up tp speed...the reason that some references to it being a family product, my last name is Wetter) and you appear to know what you are doing in your environment

I am not that serious of an enthusiast to do multiple coolant changes a yr. Heck, I traded my ZR2 in with everything it came with except oil, filters, tires and an alternator at the age of 7

I am trying to do much better with this rig

My one stupid question to the forum (am alloted one per day) is that when I let the CC cool to add the wetter the radiator was maxed out. I ran it for 20 minutes and the coolant level never dropped to allow me to add the bottle of water wetter. I have had a long day and was too lazy to drain any coolant. Am I wrong in thinking it is a waste of time to pour it in the over flow?

[HenryJ]

...a waste of time to pour it in the over flow?

You're not wrong , that would be a waste. Open the drain and drain the radiator down, or pull off a hose to drain it down a pint.
The stuff won't help if it never makes it to the engine.

[jajwrigh]

I run the 180 stat, with the dex coolant, and 1 bottle of water wetter. I notice it runs a little warmer with the air on, but it usually stays about 180 - 200 degrees.

[F9K9]

Open the drain and drain the radiator down, or pull off a hose to drain it down a pint.
The stuff won't help if it never makes it to the engine.

Well, that's what I thought but, I remembered one or two posts where you recommended to yank the tank and clean it . When I did yank mine I kept asking myself why am I doing this?

[barch97]

You wanna trade your black bumpers for a sandalwood set?

[Gonzzo]

First off........Welcome to the forum Gonzza

Yeah, I know stictly water and water wetter, in some applications, is the way to go (just to bring you up tp speed...the reason that some references to it being a family product, my last name is Wetter) and you appear to know what you are doing in your environment

I am not that serious of an enthusiast to do multiple coolant changes a yr. Heck, I traded my ZR2 in with everything it came with except oil, filters, tires and an alternator at the age of 7

I am trying to do much better with this rig

My one stupid question to the forum (am alloted one per day) is that when I let the CC cool to add the wetter the radiator was maxed out. I ran it for 20 minutes and the coolant level never dropped to allow me to add the bottle of water wetter. I have had a long day and was too lazy to drain any coolant. Am I wrong in thinking it is a waste of time to pour it in the over flow?

Thanks for the welcome, i guess i forgot to introduce my self.

You will be waisting the WW if you pour it into the overflow tank.

I have 3 suggestions for you:

1.- Go to the kitchen and "borrow" the wife's turkey baster, use that to suck out some coolant from the radiator...dont forget to "LOSE" the baster, then before she gets a chance, tell her youll get he a new one next time you are out.

2.- Go to NAPA and get a replacement drain plug, the napa brand plug is a much better design(no tool needed for removal). Get a 1/4in. drive ratchet with a 1 to 2 in extencion and undo the radiator drain plug(make sure truck is cool, i didnt think mine was too hot, needless to say i ran around my front lawn screaming like a girl), located on the lower right hand side(pass side) of the back(facing engine)of the radiator. It is best to access the plug from the front right fender well. Drain a bit of the coolant(dispose of properly)and replace with WW.

3.- If you choose to do #2, you may as well go all the way. Addemdum to #2...hum i guess you could call this #2.1?...sorry.
Anyway, drain All the coolant, remove factory drain plug and replace with napa brand. Fill radiator with water, run engine for a few mins. Repeat draining prosedure(carefull of the colant temp while draining)to ensure you get as much of the old stuff out. I would repeat one more time but that is up to you. Refill with 1 bottle of WW + what ever amount of dex/green coolant you feel comfortable with for your seasonal temp range and finish off with water.
***********************WARNING******************************

Cooling systems work under high pressures and high temperatures. Please, take all nessessary prevetitive meassures to ensure your safety(your buddy's too if you have a helper).


*************************************************************
A few notes:

If you deside to go with #1, DONT FORGET TO GET A BASTER next time you are out, the LAST thing you want to do is go to the damn supermarket on THANKS GIVING

If you go with #2 or 3, please be careful of the coolant temperatures, like i said, i didnt think it was "that" hot and lemme tell ya...that sh!t hurt, not to mention someone told my wife that bleach helps stop the burning so guess what she did...yup, bleached my favoryte pair of coveralls

Last, i hope my ramblings made some sence and i hope they are of help.

P.S.
Ill spell check my next post, promise.

Thanks.

Gonzzo.

[HenryJ]

Gonzzo, Welcome
Outstanding post!

I forgot about the baster I keep in my toolbox add a 12" piece of clear tubing to it for more reach, and you can tip it upside down so that you lose less.

While the "misses" my frown on your reallocating the turkey baster, the rubber build tends to dry out and crack. She needs a new one anyway
Then the next time you need one yours may be cracking, and you can repeat the cycle

[F9K9]

And I was afraid of asking about timing on replacing hoses thinking I was straying off topic

Excellent post Gonzzo

No, Barch, I do not want anything to do with "Sandlewood"! The name is what I despise even if I like the color

AND yes, I dumped $7 in the overflow tank last night but, I went back today to ADVANCE and it was $2.54.

Was pulling into the store and I noticed my rt turn signal was at warp speed so I checked lamps and rear was out. I hope that is a sign my luck has turned. Having something fail while enroute to the parts store

Have three questions now.......................

1. The drain valve is on the driver's side. Is the drain plug something different?

2. Has anyone removed the block plugs as GM recommends

3. Mine is an '02 that just sat around at the dealer for two years. In the old days we changed the upper and lower radiator hoses along with the heater hoses every 2 years. Has materials advanced enough to no longer practice this preventative maintanence?

[barch97]

No, Barch, I do not want anything to do with "Sandlewood"! The name is what I despise even if I like the color

I'll personally guarantee that it'll lower your running temp by 4 degrees

[F9K9]

No, Barch, I do not want anything to do with "Sandlewood"! The name is what I despise even if I like the color

I'll personally guarantee that it'll lower your running temp by 4 degrees

You have become way to conservative in your sh_t stirring. I'm getting worried again

[Gonzzo]

Thanks for the kudos gents.

Im a bit confused by this though: "1. The drain valve is on the driver's side. Is the drain plug something different?". As far as i know, the drain plug on the radiator is on the lower right hand side. It has a funky looking plug(looks like them tamper proof screws they use for the bathroom stalls). It is best accesed through the right front fender opening. Im not clear on the "valve" you mention.

I just read the post you linked and to be honest with you, the thought of taking out the engine coolant plugs never crossed my mind. I just figured that if i drained the rad + filled with water + ran engine for a few mins and drained the rad a few times i would get most of the old stuff out. It took alot longer than the method you descrived but, i had all day to fart arrownd with my truck.

As far as the hoses go, if you are already going to be under there... i would replace all of them. I dont think they make any better hoses now but, i might be wrong.

Hope this helps.

Gonzzo.

[F9K9]

UPDATE

No turkey baster

She has always worked holidays to let coworkers, with children, have the day off so that they can be at home

She did supply a tool to do the job


I expected maybe a 5° F drop in temperature with the WW

Now, it is back to worrying about codes. At least 20° cooler:lol:

[F9K9]

It is best accesed through the right front fender opening. Im not clear on the "valve" you mention.

I just read the post you linked and to be honest with you, the thought of taking out the engine coolant plugs never crossed my mind. I just figured that if i drained the rad + filled with water + ran engine for a few mins and drained the rad a few times i would get most of the old stuff out. It took alot longer than the method you descrived but, i had all day to fart arrownd with my truck.

As far as the hoses go, if you are already going to be under there... i would replace all of them. I dont think they make any better hoses now but, i might be wrong.

Hope this helps.

Gonzzo.

I am pretty sure that this is where I drained mine at and it was on the driver's side.

I am a little concerned that those pics are "temporarily unavailable" in that link. Those are the only pictures that are in that condition in my imagestation. I would hate to think homeland security is upset that I answered a question about coolant flushes from a guy in the middle east

I'll start hose shopping, thanks

[HenryJ]

...I'll start hose shopping...

The hoses replacement is not a bad idea, but I have not had many problems with them. There may have been some improvements in manufacture. They just don't seem to get hard, or separate like the old hoses used to.

I'd just replace them when they show signs of deterioration. Something like oxidation, or cracking when you squeeze them.
Of course damage warrants replacement. Watch the spot below the tensioner pulley where the belt gets real close. A belt too long , or stretched will allow it to rub a hole in the lower hose.

[F9K9]

Thanks to the two of you

[quickbiker]

My truck was getting hotter than usual like yours, f9. I thought it was my winch mount, but then I realized the clutch fan was not kick'n in, it's in the 90's here. Put a new clutch fan in and all is back to normal temps now. And mine's block'n it perty good:

[F9K9]

My truck was getting hotter than usual like yours, f9. I thought it was my winch mount, but then I realized the clutch fan was not kick'n in, it's in the 90's here. Put a new clutch fan in and all is back to normal temps now. And mine's block'n it perty good:

Gotta say I love your truck
I pretty much know when a fan clutch is gone by the sound

It's one of those sounds like after a pin is pulled off a grenade and the "spoon" flys off or the sound of a bolt going home on an M-16

Hear it once and you will never forget.

Am just thrilled that the WW works so well. It now resides on my shelf with the Sea-Foam! Things that sound too good to be true but, really are

[quickbiker]

Mine wasn't making any noises, just wasn't working. Didn't mean to say you wouldn't check it, just figured I'd put in what happened, never know. lol.

And yea, I love my truck also. That's why I am upgrading it instead of getting a Rubicon. Believe me, I came close to trading in my truck. But there is just something about the S10 crews, nothing ever fit me so good, and the looks of them are great! I also don't wanna just be like everyone else with a Jeep.

[coffeedrnkr]

I must say that I had a f9 experience today. I went to the bank then had to come back home and get something. I left it running in the driveway with the ac cranked b/c it was 95 degrees outside and when I came back out the gauge was up like 2 marks past 210. when I got to driving again it went down some but now I am seriously thinking about getting some water wetter since it is pretty cheap.

did you buy the smaller bottle or the big metal can looking one?

[F9K9]

I must say that I had a f9 experience today. I went to the bank then had to come back home and get something. I left it running in the driveway with the ac cranked b/c it was 95 degrees outside and when I came back out the gauge was up like 2 marks past 210. when I got to driving again it went down some but now I am seriously thinking about getting some water wetter since it is pretty cheap.

did you buy the smaller bottle or the big metal can looking one?

Only one offered around here is the small bottle that is on sale and is $2.54 after rebate. I hope my resevvoir is liking the first bottle

[AZS10Crew]

You know...there was an issue similar to this on the f-body message boards when I had my Z28. Apparently the temp gauges in f-bodies would either show cold, just shy of 210, or overheated(if they ever overheated) because that's the way the computer made it display. Apparently too many idiot car owners were seeing their temp gauges fluctuate as it normally does when driving and freak out, so GM just made it show just under 210 all the time when it was in normal operating range. So the people that had 160 stats (like myself) would think it wasn;t working when it always showed just under 210. Those that had scan tools however could check the PCM and see that the coolant temp was in the correct lower range.

So...to make a long story short...it may not be anything abnormal to see that temp gauge at just under 210 when you have the 180 stat.

[HenryJ]

This thread - Radiator needs to be added to the mix here. there is a good discussion on cooling systems from a few years back.

[F9K9]

This thread - Radiator needs to be added to the mix here. there is a good discussion on cooling systems from a few years back.

Good reading and relevant