Tailgate cables
Moderator: F9K9
Tailgate cables
I was standing on my tailgate throwing some crap into a dumpster today when both tailgate cables snapped. I was able to soak up the fall and roll off to the side as to not dent my tailgate on the bumper (I gave myself a 9 for not falling on my butt ). They both snapped at the same spot. I guess I should have noticed this a while back considering they were rusted through, but never thought to look, because this truck isn't that old. I called the dealer to see if there had been any recalls for the cables, but the service guy told me there weren't. Asked him how much they are... ~$48 per side! The whole latch needs to be replaced as well... great design . My question is, where would be the best place to buy these tailgate cables? A little search yeilded eBay as the best place, but figured I would ask as well.
!M!
!M!
'02 Crew Cab
'73 Datsun 240Z with Buick Grand National engine swap
'73 Datsun 240Z with Buick Grand National engine swap
- F9K9
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Ebay, Ebay, Ebay
Latch does not need to be replaced but, I bought mine at a dealer and they were not that much for the pair
I bought the socket to remove them but, it was over my head after that. A body shop threw mine on (I just left the tailgate with them). They was no charge when I picked them up.
Maybe some other members can walk you through the install
Lawdy, I hope you did a search on this before posting.
Latch does not need to be replaced but, I bought mine at a dealer and they were not that much for the pair
I bought the socket to remove them but, it was over my head after that. A body shop threw mine on (I just left the tailgate with them). They was no charge when I picked them up.
Maybe some other members can walk you through the install
Lawdy, I hope you did a search on this before posting.
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
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Keep trying:)
I see them often on ebay.
Try gmpartsdirect.com if you get desperate.
Mine broke because my Emergency Room Nurse/Wife couldn't understand why I would I tell her that we had enough a load in the bed of my old ZR2. She just assumed that if the bricks, that her Dad gave her, weren't to the top of the bed and falling off that we could load more.
I see them often on ebay.
Try gmpartsdirect.com if you get desperate.
Mine broke because my Emergency Room Nurse/Wife couldn't understand why I would I tell her that we had enough a load in the bed of my old ZR2. She just assumed that if the bricks, that her Dad gave her, weren't to the top of the bed and falling off that we could load more.
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- jeff024
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may find them hereTAILGATE CABLES AND CHEAP
[size=75]2004 S-10 CREW CAB {TRADED IN}
........ 2006 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/jeff024/]PICS OF THE CREW CAB[/url][/size]
........ 2006 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/jeff024/]PICS OF THE CREW CAB[/url][/size]
Uh, what else broke? Anything? Springs, shocks, etc?f9k9 wrote:Mine broke because my Emergency Room Nurse/Wife couldn't understand why I would I tell her that we had enough a load in the bed of my old ZR2. She just assumed that if the bricks, that her Dad gave her, weren't to the top of the bed and falling off that we could load more.
I remember loading up a friend's old ('65?) Ford F250 with shingles once only to discover that while the springs and stuff could still just barely handle the load, the old style drum brakes were another matter entirely. I'll never forget that first hill....
- F9K9
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Rusty wrote:f9k9 wrote:Mine broke because my Emergency Room Nurse/Wife couldn't understand why I would I tell her that we had enough a load in the bed of my old ZR2. She just assumed that if the bricks, that her Dad gave her, weren't to the top of the bed and falling off that we could load more.
Uh, what else broke? Anything? Springs, shocks, etc?
I remember loading up a friend's old ('65?) Ford F250 with shingles once only to discover that while the springs and stuff could still just barely handle the load, the old style drum brakes were another matter entirely. I'll never forget that first hill....
Nothing broke
Am still being amazed at what a person who knows exactly what to do under stress (with a major trauma) can operate a defibrillator, give mustiple meds, coach our foriegn MDs through a crisis and cannot operate my power seat or use mirrors to back up a vehicle
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The NHTSA, National Highway and Transpiration Safety Administration, (the people who do the recalls) are taking complaints on this issue for the s-10's. Here is where to go file the complaint.
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/
I have heard some success on calling GM's 800 customer service number and complaining to get the s-series repair covered, but I was unsuccessful this morning in doing so.
I encourage everyone that has experienced a failure to follow the link and either fill out the online form or give the 800 # listed at the above site a call. The open S-series complaint with the NHTSA only lists 42 complaints so far. In talking with my friends I came up with 5 people that have had them fail on newer S-10's.
Although the latch and connecting points are different between the s-series and the full size trucks that already have a recall, the actual wire cable that is failing is made of exact same stock.
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/
I have heard some success on calling GM's 800 customer service number and complaining to get the s-series repair covered, but I was unsuccessful this morning in doing so.
I encourage everyone that has experienced a failure to follow the link and either fill out the online form or give the 800 # listed at the above site a call. The open S-series complaint with the NHTSA only lists 42 complaints so far. In talking with my friends I came up with 5 people that have had them fail on newer S-10's.
Although the latch and connecting points are different between the s-series and the full size trucks that already have a recall, the actual wire cable that is failing is made of exact same stock.
[size=75]"The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?" - Bash.org[/size]
Well, for what it's worth, I still can't figure out how to program a VCR!f9k9 wrote:Am still being amazed at what a person who knows exactly what to do under stress (with a major trauma) can operate a defibrillator, give mustiple meds, coach our foriegn MDs through a crisis and cannot operate my power seat or use mirrors to back up a vehicle
Anyway, I think about how many times I've sat on the tailgate during the spring/summer months. If the cables break as easily as it sounds, I think I need to stop using my tailgate for a chair.
- killian96ss
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I do the same thing on family outings, and I really don't want to see my wife and kids end up on the ground, or get hurt in any way because of this issue. I have stood on my tailgate several times and never thought anything of it. I'm guessing that the tailgate itself would get damaged also after it drops onto the bumper with weight on it. Are they failing because of rust, or are they just weak? Stainless cables would be nice.Rusty wrote:Anyway, I think about how many times I've sat on the tailgate during the spring/summer months. If the cables break as easily as it sounds, I think I need to stop using my tailgate for a chair.
Steve
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The ones I have seen are all breaking in the exact middle of the cable, right where they bend in half when they are closed. The new replacements for the full size trucks are suposedly stainless under the rubber coating. From what I can tell the rubber coating goes bad at the bend and lets water and salt get to the cable. It then rusts and breaks.killian96ss wrote:Rusty wrote:Are they failing because of rust, or are they just weak? Stainless cables would be nice.
Steve
If you read the NHTSA report for the full size trucks there have been several deaths attributed to the failure when people are riding on the tailgate going down the road(bad idea to begin with) and they fail.
[size=75]"The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?" - Bash.org[/size]
Well, found some tailgate cables on eBay for ~$10+$10 shipping, and they arrived today. I got to work and found this task of replacing the cables was going to be a bit more involved than I first figured. After all the farting around and running to the hardware store, it took a little over two hours to replace both cables. To help others out and speed things up, here's what I did:
1. Remove tailgate and place on workbench or in my case a kitchen table.
2. Use a T-40 Torx bit (this bit will be used for all the screws on the tailgate) and remove the 2 screws holding the plastic bed liner on. Set this aside.
3. After the plastic liner is removed, you will see one black screw that holds the tailgate handle in place. Remove this screw.
4. Flip the tailgate over. You will see the handle is loose inside the tailgate. Remove the plastic ring that surrounds the tailgate handle. Simply get your fingers behind it and give it a pull.
5. After the plastic ring is removed, you will see the rather simple mechanism used to move each latch. You need to remove both bars that move the latch. Simply rotate the plastic retainer and pull the bar straight up and out. A needle nose pliers comes in handy here. Leave the bar where it lays.
6. Remove a latch by taking off the two Torx head screws. The latch will come straight out and you will see how it attaches to the bar inside the tailgate. The bar's end is "L" shaped, so rotate the latch 90 degrees to free it from the bar. It's a lot easier to leave the bar inside the tailgate, than to pull it out, trust me on this.
7. You will see the tailgate cable is held on by a solid rivit. I used a bench grinder to grind down the thinner of the two sides of the rivit. I then used a drift pin to punch out the rivit. The old tailgate cable will fall off now, but keep track of the thin nylon washer! This nylon washer goes between the latch and the tailgate cable.
8. Now here is where you can do what you want, as far as attaching the cables goes, but this is how I did mine. I went to the harware store and picked up two 1/2" X 1/2" stainless steel bolts and the nuts to go with them. The nuts I used were jam nuts, which are thinner, but after installation I found they really aren't needed. I originally wanted to use a solid rivit again, like the factory did, but my hardware store didn't have any.
9. In order to use the 1/2" bolts I picked up, I needed to drill out the hole in the latch that holds the tailgate cable on. After doing that I shot each latch with some paint, because of the exposed metal from drilling and a few nicks from grinding the rivit off.
10. There isn't much room to put a bolt behind the latch, so I ground down the heads of each 1/2" bolt to roughly one half the original thickness. If you are not sure, then leave a little extra on the head of the bolt, because when the latch is tightened down, the latch holds the bolt in place by pressing it against the tailgate.
11. Install the bars, the ones inside the tailgate, back onto each latch and put the other end of the bars back onto the handle mechanism. Flip the tailgate back over and attach the handle with the one black screw. You will have to lift the tailgate slightly to get underneath to align the handle with the screw holes. You can replace the plastic ring around the handle now.
12. Put the 1/2" bolt through the back of the latch and attach the latch back onto the tailgate.
13. Put the nylon washer on the bolt, then put your new tailgate cables on and lightly screw on the jam nuts with some permanent (red) lock-tite. You want a little movement in the cables, you don't want to tighten the jam nuts down.
14. While the loc-tite is hardening, install your plastic bed liner back onto the tailgate.
15. Install the tailgate.
Yes folks, it's that simple! Just 15 easy steps!
Maybe you will get lucky and have both tailgate cables THE SAME LENGTH. Because, after I installed mine, I found the passenger side cable to be almost 1/4" longer than the other... oh well. At least the person from eBay is sending me some new ones next week.
!M!
1. Remove tailgate and place on workbench or in my case a kitchen table.
2. Use a T-40 Torx bit (this bit will be used for all the screws on the tailgate) and remove the 2 screws holding the plastic bed liner on. Set this aside.
3. After the plastic liner is removed, you will see one black screw that holds the tailgate handle in place. Remove this screw.
4. Flip the tailgate over. You will see the handle is loose inside the tailgate. Remove the plastic ring that surrounds the tailgate handle. Simply get your fingers behind it and give it a pull.
5. After the plastic ring is removed, you will see the rather simple mechanism used to move each latch. You need to remove both bars that move the latch. Simply rotate the plastic retainer and pull the bar straight up and out. A needle nose pliers comes in handy here. Leave the bar where it lays.
6. Remove a latch by taking off the two Torx head screws. The latch will come straight out and you will see how it attaches to the bar inside the tailgate. The bar's end is "L" shaped, so rotate the latch 90 degrees to free it from the bar. It's a lot easier to leave the bar inside the tailgate, than to pull it out, trust me on this.
7. You will see the tailgate cable is held on by a solid rivit. I used a bench grinder to grind down the thinner of the two sides of the rivit. I then used a drift pin to punch out the rivit. The old tailgate cable will fall off now, but keep track of the thin nylon washer! This nylon washer goes between the latch and the tailgate cable.
8. Now here is where you can do what you want, as far as attaching the cables goes, but this is how I did mine. I went to the harware store and picked up two 1/2" X 1/2" stainless steel bolts and the nuts to go with them. The nuts I used were jam nuts, which are thinner, but after installation I found they really aren't needed. I originally wanted to use a solid rivit again, like the factory did, but my hardware store didn't have any.
9. In order to use the 1/2" bolts I picked up, I needed to drill out the hole in the latch that holds the tailgate cable on. After doing that I shot each latch with some paint, because of the exposed metal from drilling and a few nicks from grinding the rivit off.
10. There isn't much room to put a bolt behind the latch, so I ground down the heads of each 1/2" bolt to roughly one half the original thickness. If you are not sure, then leave a little extra on the head of the bolt, because when the latch is tightened down, the latch holds the bolt in place by pressing it against the tailgate.
11. Install the bars, the ones inside the tailgate, back onto each latch and put the other end of the bars back onto the handle mechanism. Flip the tailgate back over and attach the handle with the one black screw. You will have to lift the tailgate slightly to get underneath to align the handle with the screw holes. You can replace the plastic ring around the handle now.
12. Put the 1/2" bolt through the back of the latch and attach the latch back onto the tailgate.
13. Put the nylon washer on the bolt, then put your new tailgate cables on and lightly screw on the jam nuts with some permanent (red) lock-tite. You want a little movement in the cables, you don't want to tighten the jam nuts down.
14. While the loc-tite is hardening, install your plastic bed liner back onto the tailgate.
15. Install the tailgate.
Yes folks, it's that simple! Just 15 easy steps!
Maybe you will get lucky and have both tailgate cables THE SAME LENGTH. Because, after I installed mine, I found the passenger side cable to be almost 1/4" longer than the other... oh well. At least the person from eBay is sending me some new ones next week.
!M!
'02 Crew Cab
'73 Datsun 240Z with Buick Grand National engine swap
'73 Datsun 240Z with Buick Grand National engine swap
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Definitely a good "sticky" or is needed to be posted in a section of it's own.
Thanks for the time you spent telling us !
Thanks for the time you spent telling us !
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
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The handle must be removed to disconnect the bars that operate both latch's, otherwise the latch will not come out of the tailgate. Go ahead and take the latch off first and pull on it, you will notice that it just springs back into the tailgate. You need to remove the handle first, it's really not that hard.jmb222 wrote:Why do you have to remove the handle? I was hoping to just remove the bracket on the side of the tailgate. This job is not going to be as easy as I thought.
Thanks for the help
!M!
'02 Crew Cab
'73 Datsun 240Z with Buick Grand National engine swap
'73 Datsun 240Z with Buick Grand National engine swap
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I was able to do this without removing the handle from the tailgate. I got my hand down inside the endgate and removed the connecting rods from the handle so that latches could be removed.
I also ordered the complete GM latch assembly from gmpartsdirect.com for $24 a side. I kept my receipt in hopes that if the recall ever really happened they would refund my money. Generally they will if you buy GM parts.
I also ordered the complete GM latch assembly from gmpartsdirect.com for $24 a side. I kept my receipt in hopes that if the recall ever really happened they would refund my money. Generally they will if you buy GM parts.
[size=75]"The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?" - Bash.org[/size]
It's a heck of a lot easier to remove the bars by taking out one screw .daevans315 wrote:I was able to do this without removing the handle from the tailgate. I got my hand down inside the endgate and removed the connecting rods from the handle so that latches could be removed.
!M!
'02 Crew Cab
'73 Datsun 240Z with Buick Grand National engine swap
'73 Datsun 240Z with Buick Grand National engine swap
- Yellow Hammer
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[size=75]2001 S-10 Crew Cab (white), 2" suspension lift (torsion bar crank & Daystar shackles), 2"BL, 31X10.50 BFG AT, 15X7 Cragar wheels (black), 1.25" rear wheel spacers, Hi-Lift jack with mount, rock sliders, Bilstein shocks, Westin light bar, Hella 500 lights, Trans cooler, GPS, CB, XM radio
Roll Tide!![/size]
Roll Tide!![/size]
- Yellow Hammer
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I don't know about you guys but I have had to replace three of these so far, two PS and one DS. Chevy needs to get off their arsses and recall the S10s also.
[size=75]2001 S-10 Crew Cab (white), 2" suspension lift (torsion bar crank & Daystar shackles), 2"BL, 31X10.50 BFG AT, 15X7 Cragar wheels (black), 1.25" rear wheel spacers, Hi-Lift jack with mount, rock sliders, Bilstein shocks, Westin light bar, Hella 500 lights, Trans cooler, GPS, CB, XM radio
Roll Tide!![/size]
Roll Tide!![/size]
broke a cable during hunting season. been using one cable ever since, 6 months now
my uncles full size had both cables break on him.
dads fullsize broke one
I drove a 1988 s-10 longbox (oh how i miss that truck ) with the old two piece metal hinge system....worked for 16 solid years and never broke. maybe GM needs to go back in time to find asnwers to its modern problems???
my uncles full size had both cables break on him.
dads fullsize broke one
I drove a 1988 s-10 longbox (oh how i miss that truck ) with the old two piece metal hinge system....worked for 16 solid years and never broke. maybe GM needs to go back in time to find asnwers to its modern problems???
[size=75]*SOLD* 5" BDS, 2" PA, 33" MT's, HPPIII , Airaid TB spacer, K&N FIPK, March pulleys, 2.5" straight pipe, Trucktec tonneau, Herculinered body line down, 3/16" custom skid plates[/size]
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I agree.bwenny247 wrote:maybe GM needs to go back in time to find asnwers to its modern problems???
[size=75]2001 S-10 Crew Cab (white), 2" suspension lift (torsion bar crank & Daystar shackles), 2"BL, 31X10.50 BFG AT, 15X7 Cragar wheels (black), 1.25" rear wheel spacers, Hi-Lift jack with mount, rock sliders, Bilstein shocks, Westin light bar, Hella 500 lights, Trans cooler, GPS, CB, XM radio
Roll Tide!![/size]
Roll Tide!![/size]
- BassGuy354
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Advanced Auto Parts has the fix... $12 / side
At Advance Auto Parts, they have a set of HELP! cables that fit perfectly. They were about $12 each. Installation isn't too bad.
1 Open the tailgate
2 Loosen the side latch peice (don't have to disconnect the linkage)
3 Put a wood block behind the rivet
4 Drill the rivet out
5 Throw the broken cable away
6 Slip on the new cable
7 Put on included bolt and clip
8 Sit on your newly secured tailgate and smile
And if they ever go bad again, there's a clip instead of a rivet, making it much easier to replace them. I had my driver's side cable snap on my '95 reg cab, and the passenger side is bulging, but not broken yet. It was surprisingly easy.
1 Open the tailgate
2 Loosen the side latch peice (don't have to disconnect the linkage)
3 Put a wood block behind the rivet
4 Drill the rivet out
5 Throw the broken cable away
6 Slip on the new cable
7 Put on included bolt and clip
8 Sit on your newly secured tailgate and smile
And if they ever go bad again, there's a clip instead of a rivet, making it much easier to replace them. I had my driver's side cable snap on my '95 reg cab, and the passenger side is bulging, but not broken yet. It was surprisingly easy.
[size=75]~Mike[/size]
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Very helpful and welcome aboard
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
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How do these look compaired to the OEM ones? Heavier duty? Nicer finish? Do you think they will break just as often????
[size=75]"The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?" - Bash.org[/size]
here's a picture of them i found on Advanced Auto's Website
i think i'll be investing in some soon. thanks for the info bassguy
i think i'll be investing in some soon. thanks for the info bassguy
[size=75]*SOLD* 5" BDS, 2" PA, 33" MT's, HPPIII , Airaid TB spacer, K&N FIPK, March pulleys, 2.5" straight pipe, Trucktec tonneau, Herculinered body line down, 3/16" custom skid plates[/size]
installed my new cable yesterday
the whole process took about 10 minutes!
the only difference from the GM cable (as far as i can see) is that the ends are not painted black. if you can ignore that (or spend 30 seconds painting them), this is a very easy fix to an annoying problem.
the whole process took about 10 minutes!
the only difference from the GM cable (as far as i can see) is that the ends are not painted black. if you can ignore that (or spend 30 seconds painting them), this is a very easy fix to an annoying problem.
[size=75]*SOLD* 5" BDS, 2" PA, 33" MT's, HPPIII , Airaid TB spacer, K&N FIPK, March pulleys, 2.5" straight pipe, Trucktec tonneau, Herculinered body line down, 3/16" custom skid plates[/size]
- killian96ss
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The other day while loading a bicycle into the CC one of my tailgate cables snapped. Luckily the other one didn't, or I might have been injured. It snapped right in the middle as others have described. I see they have them on E-Bay, but I think I will try the HELP section first @ Kragen, Pep Boys, or Autozone. I only posted this because I want to make sure everyone is still aware of this problem, and I would hate to see someone get injured as a result of their cables snapping.
I would avoid standing on or putting anything heavy on the tailgate since these cables can apparently snap at any time without warning!
Steve
I would avoid standing on or putting anything heavy on the tailgate since these cables can apparently snap at any time without warning!
Steve