Transmission oil & filter change, now I have problems

Mat73GNZ · Post by **Mat73GNZ** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 7:38 am

While trying to find information on my problem, I came across this site. It's pretty cool to find a web site dedicated to the S-10 Crew Cab!

Here's my problem (I tried searching), I did a transmission oil and filter change on my '02. Now, when I put the shifter into DRIVE, it starts off in 3rd or overdrive, not first gear. I don't have a Haynes manual, but figured a filter and oil change can't be that hard. Here is what I did:

(1) Took off pan, and cleaned it.
(2) Removed the filter and the little gasket thing inside the transmission the the filter pushes into.
(3) Pushed in new little gasket thing that the filter pushes into (had to use a socket to tap it into the transmission) and installed the filter
(4) Put on the pan gasket with a little high temp. Permatex to keep it in place and installed the pan
(5) Truck manual says that the transmission needs 5 quarts of transmission fluid, so I put in 5 quarts through the dip stick tube. A quick check shows more fluid than there needs to be, but it wasn't running at the time.

Did I do something wrong? Why won't the transmission work correctly? When I started the engine for the first time after doing the transmission filter and oil change, I heard a slight ticking noise coming from the transmission that went away after about 5 seconds.

Thank you for any help.

!M!

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 7:44 am

Welcome

glad you found us!

You didn't use a pry bar to get that pan off or back on did you?

We have someone here who damaged one of the solenoids in the back of the valve body by doing that.

Next thing is , you did get the deep pan filter ,right?

Lastly, Is the shift linkage adjusted properly? I mean does it actually shift into each detent as it should or is it grossly out of adjustment?

Mat73GNZ · Post by **Mat73GNZ** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 8:03 am

Wow, quick reply! Thanks.

No, I did not have to use a screw driver or pry bar to remove the pan, I took off all but two bolts, then started to unscrew the last two bolts little by little (because of all the fluid in the pan) and it just came off under its own wieght. No, I didn't let it fall to the ground

That would have made one heck of a mess.

Yes, I did use the deep pan filter.

I will have to check out the shifter linkage. I pulled out the metal piece from the linkage to remove it from the bracket to get at those two 10mm bolts that hold the bracket to the transmission pan, so I might have to adjust it. The thing is, I didn't move the linkage though, except for taking it off and putting it back on.

!M!

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 9:07 am

# Apply the park brake.
# Place the transmission range selector control lever (column or floor shift) into the NEUTRAL position.
# Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
# Remove the positive assurance pin (2) from the bracket.

# Release the cable lock tab (1).

# Ensure that the transmission range selector lever is in the NEUTRAL position. Rotate the range select lever fully clockwise then counter clockwise two detents.
# Pull the cable end completely forward and release it. This allows the adjustment spring to position the cable to its most rearward position. Use care not to pull the cable past the ball stud, this will result in a misadjusted cable.
# If the adjustment body is not free to move under spring load, a proper adjustment can still be made. Push the adjustment body against the rearward stop. Pull the cable end just far enough forward to install it to the ball stud.
# Install the range selector cable end (2) to the range selector lever ball stud (1).

# Depress the locking tab of cable (1) to set the adjustment.

# Install the positive assurance pin (2) into the bracket.
# Lower the vehicle.
# Check the vehicle for proper operation. The following conditions must be met:

* When moving the shift lever from Park to L, all detent positions will be attainable.
* There will be an equal amount of "free play" between the shift lever and the gate in the drive and reverse detent. If there is no "free play", the adjustment is not acceptable.
* With the key in the "on" position and shift lever in reverse, the key will not be removable, and the steering wheel will not be locked.
* With the key in the "locked" position, and the shift lever in the "park" position, the key will be removable, the steering wheel will be locked, and the shift lever will not disengage park.

I'm not sure if this will help much, but here it is.

I hope nothing was knocked loose when the pan was off.

Make sure that fluid level is where it should be, checked engine running , transmission in park or neutral.

Worst case I guess you could drop the pan again and check things before taking it to an expert.

I am unaware of any transmission issues related to your situation.

Mat73GNZ · Post by **Mat73GNZ** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 2:08 pm

Thanks for your help Henry.

Well, the only place I could work on my truck is in my driveway and it started raining and I NEED to have a running truck, so *huff* I had to take it to a transmission expert. I don't like other people working on my stuff, but I had too. Turns out that when I put the transmission pan back on, I tweaked the 3-4 shift solenoid causing it to leak slightly. I honestly don't know how I did this, because when I put the pan back on, I moved the exaust out of the way and the pan went right up into place. It really puzzles me how this could have happened. The transmission expert said to NEVER use after market transmission filter kits, they sit in the pan wrong. Always use what came out of them, which is AC Delco I believe. He thinks the filter pushed the solenoid out of the way when I tightened the pan down.

It's being fixed right now, should be around $121 for labor, new solenoid, new filter, and gasket. Well, at least I didn't have tranny fluid raining all over me

.

Again, thanks for helping me out and now we all know better.

!M!

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 4:08 pm

Mat73GNZ wrote:... Turns out that when I put the transmission pan back on, I tweaked the 3-4 shift solenoid causing it to leak slightly....

Same thing that happened to "that other guy" (right Hobie

) , only he admitted to using a screwdriver to pry a little.

Seems that this is a touchy spot and prone to accidental damage.

Thanks for sharing so that we all learn

Mat73GNZ · Post by **Mat73GNZ** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 4:51 pm

HenryJ wrote:
Mat73GNZ wrote:only he admitted to using a screwdriver to pry a little.

Seems that this is a touchy spot and prone to accidental damage.

Thanks for sharing so that we all learn

Seriously, I didn't pry on it! I'll be honest with you, I had a large standard screw driver laying next to the tools that I was using while I was under there, just in case, but I didn't have to pry the pan off, it came apart under its own weight. It just let loose and then was caught by the 2 bolts that I left on holding the transmission pan in place. Scared the crap out of me, because my face was right underneath the pan.

The transmission expert showed me the solenoid that was tweaked, and the metal casing just slightly came off allowing the plastic body to move back and forth about 1/16". Handling the solenoid a little bit, it's kind of a delicate piece.

!M!

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 5:13 pm

Mat73GNZ wrote:...Seriously, I didn't pry on it! ...

I believe you, but check out this thread- Transmission service

Mat73GNZ · Post by **Mat73GNZ** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 6:18 pm

Ahh, I see

I think he did it the hard way

!M!

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 8:22 pm

Mat73GNZ wrote:...I think he did it the hard way...

Yes, and solved it the same way that you did

That was over two years ago

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Wed Aug 25, 2004 5:09 am

HenryJ wrote:
Mat73GNZ wrote:... Turns out that when I put the transmission pan back on, I tweaked the 3-4 shift solenoid causing it to leak slightly....
Same thing that happened to "that other guy" (right hobie ) , only he admitted to using a screwdriver to pry a little.

Seems that this is a touchy spot and prone to accidental damage.

Thanks for sharing so that we all learn

I guss I was lucky. I did mine two months ago. I took the pan off with some tilting, twisting & cursing. When it was time to put it back on, I put it up backwards. Cursed, tilted & twisted it off. Put it up the right way & it wouldn't go flush...took it down again I found the filter needed pushed up in more. Finally I got it all back together & said to myself, next time someone else will be doing this job.
Oh yeah the seal...thats another story

The factory had driven the seal so far in it was up past the taper 1/8" of the machined aluminum was showing. Allot of head scratching & more cursing got it out. The new one wouldn't go in nearly as far as the old one was with light tapping with a hammer & socket.

a2b · Post by **a2b** » Wed Aug 25, 2004 1:50 pm

yep, i did the same thing as jim. i did all that cussin and screamin to get it out of there. then once i went to put it back on, i cussed and screamed some more and then realized it was on backwards

the i cussed and screamed some more to get it back off, then i cussed and screamed some more to get it back on the right way. and then walla, it was broke

2bunik · Post by **2bunik** » Sun Aug 29, 2004 8:52 pm

while we are on the subject of trannies.. I got a question non truck related.. My little beater 99 hynduai elantra.. early in the mornings or anytime the car sits for a long time ( 8 hours or more) when I put it in reverse to back out of the parking spot it seems to not want to move.. The exact same way it would feel if you put the e-barke up and press on the gas.. it goes but sluggishly.. then after about two or three feet of travel it actually takes off like a normal car.. ANY IDEAS.. oh I thought this would be a quick reply and didnt feel the need to waste a NEW whole topic on it .. sorry .. also .. once the car has been ran . it drives around just fine .. and dont do it again till it sits for a while..