A few drivetrain questions

[Walt]

Hey everybody, it's been a while since I've been on here (about 3 months....I think), been busy with life I have a couple of questions for some of you mechanics/experts, because I know very little on the subject. Ever since I got my Crew in January, I have no low end power. If I take off from a dead stop, instead of a quick take off, or a chirping of the tires, the truck bogs down for maybe 1-2 second(s), then takes off gradually. Before I say this, let me say that I'm very gentle on my truck. I've had it offroad one time since I bought it, it that was something that couldn't be avoided. It gets serviced at the right times, and I get all fluids checked at each oil change. I tried power braking to see if I could get more power on the low end (normally something I would never do/have never done) and get my wheels to either break loose or atleast push the rear end of the truck up a little. No good. The truck gets to 2000 RPMs, and stays there, there is no effort past that point, until I let off the gas and get up to about 5-10 miles per hour... I've checked and re-checked my air filter (Have an aftermarket--not K&N).

My next question is this- When I drive through water, even if it's not very deep, or go through a big puddle when it's raining or something, my truck acts like it wants to die, and I have to give it more gas just to keep it idling. The problem goes away after about 30 seconds or so. Would this be the belt slipping?

I haven't taken the truck to the dealership yet (going to next Monday), but I'd like to get a bit of advice beforehand.

My last question doesn't concern problems... I've heard on the board, from checking in the last day or so, about a Superlift 3 inch suspension lift. Does anyone have a web address? Also any advice/tips/hints/reviews on getting one?


Thanks everybody!

--Walt

[barch97]

sounds like an exhaust problem. maybe bad o2 sensor? maybe clogged catalytic converter/muffler? (although truck only being a few months old and driven under condition described, it'd be pretty amazing to clog anything up that much that fast)

[Walt]

Sorry, I guess I didn't give enough info about my truck. I have a 2001 S-10 Crew. I bought it in January of this year, and in May of this year it turned 3 years old. The previous owner never did any offroading either (he put 20's on the truck with slick tires). Sorry for the lack on info. Any thoughts now?

[HenryJ]

How's your fuel filter? Have you ben using injector cleaner gas treatment every other oil change?

What is the status of the ignition parts? (cap-rotor-plugs-wires)

Have you cleaned out the throttle body?


What gears and tire size do you have? Do you have the G80 eaton gov-loc?

Look into the PCM's torque reduction feature. It limits torque to the transmission for rider comfort and transmission life. That's the story anyway.

Has your transmission had the fluid exchanged? Is it dark , or does it smell funny?

[Walt]

To be honest, I haven't really checked any of that so far. I have stock tires and 3.73 gears. Not sure about the G80 (will check soon).

[HenryJ]

I would say that it is time for a major tune-up.

Start by immediately changing that fuel filter so that the fuel pump isn't being overworked trying to push the fuel in this hot weather and remember to keep 1/4 tank or more at all times so that the fuel pump has adequate cooling fluids.

Then wipe out and clean the throttle body.

Next project is the cap, rotor , plugs and wires.
Get the AC Delco cap, rotor, and platinum plugs. I'd order a set of the Taylor Spiro-pro wires in your choice of color for the 2001 4.3L.

You will need to pick up some supplies-
Aerosol Carb./injector cleaner to spray on a rag and wipe the carbon out of the throttle body. some can be sprayed in there to remove what can't be cleaned out with the rag.

Fuel treatment injector cleaner for adding to a full tank of fuel. I'd avoid the Techron.

Tube of Dielectric silicone for the plug wire boots. There is never enough in the little packet that comes with the wires. Every tool box should have some anyway. It is great for all electrical connections.

Might not hurt to grab a new gasket for the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve. Remove it and clean the carbon.
Same goes for the IAC (Idle Air Control). It uses an o-ring that should be reuseable. How to: Cleaning your IAC (with pics)

You already mentioned the air cleaner was in good shape, but remove the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor and make sure there is no build-up on the tiny sensor wires. If there is very carefully use a "Q-tip" and some rubbing alcohol to clean them.

I assume that the engine oil and filter have been changed regularly.

Check all the fluids, grease it .

What about that rear differential fluid? If you have a G80, it should have been done at the first oil change. Are you really sure that was done?

That should be enough for a major tune-up

Do everything you feel comfortable doing. There is plenty of help here to talk you through all of it if you desire.

[quickbiker]

How many miles ya got on it? I got about 58k I think and I've only changed the air filter and oil filter. Supposed to go 100k without anything. Mine is a 2001 and still going strong. And I'm not exactly easy on it, I floor it all the time and off-road it. Maybe you just need to really let loose on it and blow out the carbon. Reminds me of a used car I had one time from an old lady. It was like that, I really let loose on it, and it ran find after the carbon was blown out of it.

[HenryJ]

.... Supposed to go 100k without anything. ...

Wrong...It may make it that long without anything under best conditions , but mileage and performance will definitely degrade.

The cap and rotor are no different technology than earlier models. The ignition is just hot enough to make up for corrosion and ash build-up on the contacts. No way I would go more than 20,000 miles without cleaning , inspecting or replacing.

Plugs are the same situation. Sure they are platinum and the ignition is hot enough to fire at over 0.080 inch gap, but why not be closer to specification?

The stock plug wires start off as junk, so replacing them is a "no brainer"

The transmission requires service every 30,000 miles for severe duty. I suppose you could go 100,000 miles if it survives that long. I'm not going to try it , and I service mine every 20,000.

Coolant needs to be changed every 2 years, so if you get 50,000 miles per year then 100k would be fine

I could go on and on....basically if you have no plans to keep your truck then go ahead and run it into the ground just fixing things as they break or fail.
I prefer preventative maintainance. I'd rather not be in the middle of "no where" when that old cap overworks the ignition coil and fails

Besides, at the price fuel is right now I need all the mileage that I can get

Now, I'll grant you that I may tend to service the heck out of my vehicles, although maybe not to the level of detail that Jim exibits, but there has to be a happy medium.
I'd say somewhere between Jim and Quickbiker would be a decent

[quickbiker]

OK, I do believe in changing the oil fuids. I've changed my tranny oil/filter about 30k - 35k. And I have changed my diff fluids, and change my engine oil about every 7k miles. My milage hasn't gotten any worse since I got the truck new. So far, the 4.3 is one of my favorite engines that I've had. I think the engine has plenty power/torque for a small truck with good milage for the power/size of it.

[HenryJ]

One thing to think about....

All the "propaganda" out there is designed to SELL you a vehicle...."No service due for 100,000 miles!"

The "catch" is that they only need to make it past the term of warranty...then at 36,001 miles it is your problem , not theirs.

Plus they didn't say how well it would run , only that the service is due at that time

[quickbiker]

Oh, if I start to hear it stutter, I'll change the dist cap/plugs/wires/fuel filter. But I just can't see wasting money. My old Dodge had a habbit of eating up dist caps every 30k miles. I just took it off, scrubbed it with sand paper, and was good as new!

[HenryJ]

Oh, if I start to hear it stutter, I'll change the dist cap/plugs/wires/fuel filter. But I just can't see wasting money....

The problem with that is , with some simple preventative maintenance bigger more costly problems can be avoided.

For instance , excessive resistance in the cap/rotor/plugs creates an increased load for the ignition coil. The power takes the path of least resistance. You don't want that to be out the side of the coil. A simple cleaning and re-gapping , or replacement if needed, can avoid replacing a much more costly ignition part.

Same goes for the fuel system. A $10 fuel filter every 15-20k is cheap when compared to the cost of changing injectors or a fuel pump.

It is a roll of the dice...one person may use the cheapest worst gas available, never change a filter and have no problems EVER.
The other may do all the preventative maintenance imaginable and still have failures.

Roll the dice! ...how lucky do you feel?

[quickbiker]

I'm a lucky kinda guy!

[Walt]

With decent directions, I can do pretty much anything. I know a bit about suspension stuff. I've installed a 3" suspension lift(front and rear) on a Ranger before (no cutting or major vehicle mods required). I can do most electrical stuff as well. When I checked into getting the Distributor Cap and plugs/wires replaced, I was told it would be a fairly expensive job. Not to mention difficult. I'd like to tackle that part myself, but after looking over the engine, the plugs seem to be in a very hard to reach place. If anyone has any suggestions, I'll gladly take them.

I wouldn't mind more performance.

I'm thinking about getting a new ignition, plugs, wires, and a distributor cap/rotor. Could you guys tell me what I should go with? I'm sure with some work I could change any of it, but I'm not sure what to buy. Also I need to know where to get some of it (Autozone is a given, but if I can get cheaper and better stuff online, I'll do it)

Thanks for the help! Does anyone have a walk-through on changing any of this stuff, especially the plugs and wires (normally a fairly easy job on my wife's Accord)?

BTW, I do get on my truck every now and then, but not on a regular basis....maybe once a month or so, maybe less...hehe, but I also service the heck out of my vehicles (atleast what I do know about or how to do).

Thanks!
--Walt

EDIT: My truck only has 31K miles on it. Had 18K on it when I got it in January, and the dealer changed the fuel filter just before I bought it.

[HenryJ]

... the plugs seem to be in a very hard to reach place. If anyone has any suggestions, I'll gladly take them...
... I'm not sure what to buy. Also I need to know where to get some of it (Autozone is a given, but if I can get cheaper and better stuff online, I'll do it)
...the dealer changed the fuel filter just before I bought it.

Access for the plugs through the fenderwell, just lift the rubber flap.
Since you already have a 2" BL it will be easy!

For those of you who are changing sparkplugs-

Try using a 3/8 drive wobble extension to clear the steering shaft on the left (driverside) center sparkplug.

You should be able to get a set of three for under $20 (try your local parts/tool store) I picked up a six inch "Evercraft" (their budget line) 3/8 drive wobble extension at NAPA for $4.99.

They are not my most used tools in the box ,but work great for clearing the steering shaft to get that middle plug out.

The right front plug is easiest using a universal to clear the shock tower.

Plug wires are not that bad either. Buy a tube of Dielectric silicone. There is never enough in the little packet that comes with the wires. I use a healthy coating inside both ends of the new plugwires. That stuff is a "must-have" for any toolbox. It can be used on all types of electrical connections.

I'd just buy the cap/rotor/plugs local, and the wires through http://www.summitracing.com/

You already have my choice of brand.

I would change that fuel filter now. I don't trust dealers , it is not too far off of a scheduled replacement and since you're doing a thorough tune-up, might as well do it now.

BTW, Mine is also a 2001 and I have changed all of the above, I'm on my third fuel filter, second trans filter, second change of rear diff. fluid, etc.

[Walt]

ohh....never thought about going through the wheel well! Very good idea. I should have all the tools I'll need. I've been in car audio for a few years, so I've aquired a fair sized collection How do I change the fuel filter and tranny filter?

[HenryJ]

... How do I change the fuel filter and tranny filter?

Replacing fuel filter

Transmission Service

[Walt]

Cool. I appreciate it man!

--Walt

[Retep]

Fuel treatment injector cleaner for adding to a full tank of fuel. I'd avoid the Techron.

Why??? I have used Techron before in my truck and the wifes Grand Prix. Is there something I should know about Techron?

Pete

[HenryJ]

Gm has pending litigation due to the sticking injector poppets. Techron seems to be the common thread.

No hard evidence that I have seen yet, but it is recommended to avoid the Techron , which is a coating, not cleaner.

[Retep]

OK... What do you recommend as an ad to a tank of gas every 5000 miles or so fuel system cleaner?

Pete

[HenryJ]

... What do you recommend as an ad to a tank of gas every 5000 miles or so fuel system cleaner?

Can't say that I have one favorite right now.
I have used Valvoline, STP, Echlin, Seafoam, 3M, etc.

The Valvoline synthetic, Echlin , and 3m are good , but expensive some times, so I buy what is on sale at the time