newbie to site - my subwfr mock-up

castlewalls · Post by **castlewalls** » Thu Feb 26, 2004 4:18 pm

Hello all! It took a few weeks but I found a truck that I and my wife fell in love with. We went to all the dealerships & tried out the Dodges, Nissans, etc.. and then we came across this one. It will make it easier to do yard work as I used to have a Suzuki 2 door hatchback that I would fill with stone & dirt, etc...
Looking forward to taking the family on vaca to Maine this year (fingers crossed).

Well, I decided to scrap my old Kenwood 40 watt sub & see if I could fit it behind the seat....
Here's a cardboard mock-up...

http://users.myexcel.com/lassiter/s10.html

I think I'm going to thin the depth by 1/4th inch & might have to router out a bit of the inside backboard to give a bit more room for the speaker magnet. hard to tell right now with just cardboard....

I'm planning on making the front/back 1/4th thick & the sides out of 1/2 plywood. The 8" speaker will also be mounted from the inside so the spkr surround won't hit the back of the seat.

AZS10Crew · Post by **AZS10Crew** » Thu Feb 26, 2004 4:48 pm

castlewalls wrote:Hello all! It took a few weeks but I found a truck that I and my wife fell in love with. We went to all the dealerships & tried out the Dodges, Nissans, etc.. and then we came across this one. It will make it easier to do yard work as I used to have a Suzuki 2 door hatchback that I would fill with stone & dirt, etc...
Looking forward to taking the family on vaca to Maine this year (fingers crossed).

Well, I decided to scrap my old Kenwood 40 watt sub & see if I could fit it behind the seat....
Here's a cardboard mock-up...

http://users.myexcel.com/lassiter/s10.html

I think I'm going to thin the depth by 1/4th inch & might have to router out a bit of the inside backboard to give a bit more room for the speaker magnet. hard to tell right now with just cardboard....

I'm planning on making the front/back 1/4th thick & the sides out of 1/2 plywood. The 8" speaker will also be mounted from the inside so the spkr surround won't hit the back of the seat.

Welcome!

Good design...but just a couple things...

Don't use plywood...use MDF (fiberboard). It flexes slightly which is good for the performance of the sub...and plywood could split with age. I'd also recommend using at least 1/2" for the whole thing...preferably 3/4". Again...better performance and sound because the thinner stuff might flex too much. Also...you might consider not putting the port in the new enclosure. The port diameter and length are designed specifically for the enclosure, so the port from the first enclosure won't necessarily perform correctly with the new one. Sealed enclosures give tighter bass anyway.

Again...welcome to the site and good luck with the box.

a2b · Post by **a2b** » Thu Feb 26, 2004 6:09 pm

welcome to the site. good luck with the sound stuff. i dont know about it much cuz i really never cared to spend money on sound. but i always think they are cool to ride in though

castlewalls · Post by **castlewalls** » Thu Feb 26, 2004 7:25 pm

Thanks for the port info, never thought about that. About the board material, where can I get it & how much does it cost? Aubuchon? Home Depot? How thick is it? Will I have to use internal corner braces to hold the panels together?

I also put a plan dwg on the site at the bottom of the page & then rethought the design a bit. I need to account for the back plastic panel in the truck. Make the rear of the box have a "notch" to fit "under" the panel & turn the amp sideways also. That'll shorten up the box a bit but I doubt it'll effect the sound too much. The hardest part will be to get & do up the wiring.

AZS10Crew · Post by **AZS10Crew** » Fri Feb 27, 2004 8:37 am

castlewalls wrote:Thanks for the port info, never thought about that. About the board material, where can I get it & how much does it cost? Aubuchon? Home Depot? How thick is it? Will I have to use internal corner braces to hold the panels together?

You can find MDF at any Home Depot or Lowes...usually around $8 for a 4'x8' sheet of 3/4". You can hold it together with small ribbed nails or small diameter drywall-type screws (screws are probably better...as long as you pre-drill the holes so you don't split the wood). Also glue the joints for added strength. When it's all put together, use some silicone sealant on the inside of all the joints to prevent air leaks. That's about it.

castlewalls · Post by **castlewalls** » Fri Feb 27, 2004 9:51 am

Thanks!

Post by **Walt** » Fri Feb 27, 2004 12:39 pm

I would personally go with 5/8" MDF and no thinner. You can get a 4x8' sheet from home depot for around $12 here in MS...

KCustom · Post by **KCustom** » Fri Feb 27, 2004 6:14 pm

One thing to keep in mind "air space" Make sure the volume of air in the new box is the same as the Tube that you took it out of. If you do you will be able to use the port that came out of the old enclosure. The woofer that came out of that enclosure needs to be in a ported box, i.e. low Q and high vas...The amp can be removed from the plastic end cap and mounted inside the new box. Just relocate the connectors to the end of the new enclosure. You will find that they (the connectors)should be connected to the amp via a short cable you can lengthen the wires to them if you need to. Good luck. If you have any questions please feel free to give a shout.

castlewalls · Post by **castlewalls** » Fri Feb 27, 2004 8:06 pm

Thanks KC, any idea how to determine the interior air volume of the old tube cab & the new one? As for the amp placement, see the link to the pics at the top. The hardest part will be wiring the thing up to the deck. Also, what does the fiber fill in the old tube cab do? There was quite a bit, the tube was stuffed right up to the magnet so I don't see how any air was moved between the spkr & the port vent.

KCustom · Post by **KCustom** » Sat Feb 28, 2004 5:18 am

To calculate the truck box:
Top diminsion + bottonm diminsion divided by 2, now take that number and multiply it times the height then multiply that by the width then divide by 1728. this will give you the volume in cubic feet. (example: 3 + 6 / 2= 4.5"x 10"x 17"= 765 divided by 1728= .44 cubic feet) To calculate the flat bottom tube: Height x width x depth x .85 divided by 1728. Make sure that you are figuring inside diminisions. The poly fill...It does not take up air space like you would think that it does. Without getting to technical it basicaly fools the woofer into beliving that it is in a bigger box with out putting it in a bigger box. It is good for smoothing out the bass that the woofer produces. You can put it back in there or leave it out it will not make that big of a difference.....

castlewalls · Post by **castlewalls** » Sat Feb 28, 2004 12:11 pm

Ok KC, math is not my strong suit. How do you determine the area of a non-"square" object? I did up the dims on the box....

http://users.myexcel.com/lassiter/subvolumedims.jpg 70k

Do the dims as if the curved "areas" were in fact square, ignoring the curved areas and then divide the curved areas by 2 to fudge the results?

castlewalls · Post by **castlewalls** » Sat Feb 28, 2004 1:18 pm

Ah, I forgot the value of PI

http://users.myexcel.com/lassiter/subarea.jpg

hopefully I did it correctly
So the volume of the original sub cab is 0.39 CF
and
the volume of the new cab (using 0.5" thk material) is 0.36 CF
As I'm going with a thinner front & back, that may equal out to the original cab volume or close enough.
Pretty good for eyeballing the new cab.....

KCustom · Post by **KCustom** » Sat Feb 28, 2004 6:09 pm

in the second formula the "divide by number is to compensate for the round top corners....if your volume is within .05 it is cool to use the same port....Let me know how it turns out.

castlewalls · Post by **castlewalls** » Mon Mar 01, 2004 8:16 pm

Other than raising the bench seat & wiring it up...
I put all the pics in one place.
cost w/wood, cardboard, glue & hardware & w/out wiring: about $20 bucks
time from start to finish (so far) about 6 hours

The final assembly pics are at the bottom of the page

http://users.myexcel.com/lassiter/s10.html

AZS10Crew · Post by **AZS10Crew** » Tue Mar 02, 2004 8:37 am

Looks good. Now all it needs is carpet.

castlewalls · Post by **castlewalls** » Tue Mar 02, 2004 11:52 am

White shag.....!

AZS10Crew · Post by **AZS10Crew** » Tue Mar 02, 2004 12:34 pm

Yeah Baby!!!

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Fri Mar 05, 2004 1:59 am

DO NOT USE SILICONE, the chemicals it emits will eat away at the voice coils inside the sub. If you got it cranked up, you could launch the whole motor assembly out of the sub basket. Just use a good quality wood glue, and then seal the corners of the boards with that. bracing is probally not going to be that big of a concern for you, your not running that much power, I am, 3000 watts big. Ill get pics us asap. Anyway, you can use plywood, just make sure that it is a good quality plywood. And again you can probally get away with using the thinner plywood or mdf. When you get into the higher power stereos then you really have to start thinking about board density, flex, vent velocity, calculating the wavelength, and then figuring out just where is that one rattle. Good fun. I got 4 10" solo baric L7's and a 3000 watt amp. Computer says I am supposed to hit 155db, I dont believe it, but may 2nd Ill find out.

castlewalls · Post by **castlewalls** » Mon Mar 08, 2004 5:10 am

Matt, you are INSANE! 3k watts? How many screaming kids were you able to fit inside the box???
Seriously, I did use MDF (easier to router the spkr flush than plywood) & white glue all around (fillets, etc...), pilot holes & wood screws. I still have to wire it up tho'. Thanks for the silicone info, I was ready to use RTV around the spkr......

Say, can one of the 2 under-dash powered plugs work instead of running a wire to the battery?

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Sat Mar 13, 2004 11:55 pm

you could, but you would probally blow a lot of fuses because of the current draw. The absolute best thing is to run one to the battery along the passanger side of the truck. All those floor sills pop on and off real easy. Under the carpet on the passanger side there is a small grommet that you can remove and either make the hole larger, or throw it out all together. I tossed it. Just be carefull not to cut the hose that runs through it. I used a razorblade and just took my time to cut it off. Then you pretty much got a straight shot to the battery. Not to hard to run. If you need help or more directions, feel free to email me at mattmruk@msn.com. My box is 7cubic feet big. 20 some inches high, 16 inches deep and 48 inches long or something like that. I dont know the exact measurements, but those sound familar. Just let me know, Ill be more than happy to help.

hubof · Post by **hubof** » Tue Mar 30, 2004 1:09 pm

Hey Castle, I can't see the pics when I go to that link, Whats Up?

Jay-Bird · Post by **Jay-Bird** » Tue Mar 30, 2004 2:00 pm

i can't either....

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newbie to site - my subwfr mock-up

newbie to site - my subwfr mock-up

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