Parts Kit is Ordered for my Counter Balance Shaft Noise
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Parts Kit is Ordered for my Counter Balance Shaft Noise
I took my crew in for service today and found that the parts kit to repair the Counter Balance Shaft Noise will be in next week. They will need my crew for 2 days and will be providing a loaner.
Has anyone had this fix performed yet?
Has anyone had this fix performed yet?
- HenryJ
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You'll be the first that I know of.
I'll be interested to hear your observations, after the kit is installed.
I'll be interested to hear your observations, after the kit is installed.
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I got my CC when it only had 4 miles on it and it didn't initially make the noise. That "diesel sound" (which is the best description I've heard for it) just sort of showed up around the 1000 mile mark and has done it ever since. I've just got so used to it now that I don't really pay any attention to it anymore.
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I should have my Crew back by tomorrow then i'm off on Saturday to meet another Crew'er to buy his cap. Its a long ride on the NJ turnpike to meet him so i'll get a good chance to see if everything's ok.
After another month of driving i'll post before and after gas mileage readings and anything else i might notice. Perfect timing as its time to start the winter beach fishing
After another month of driving i'll post before and after gas mileage readings and anything else i might notice. Perfect timing as its time to start the winter beach fishing
- Conman
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You buying that cap from the guy from LongIsland? It will be nice to have more dry space.rdivirgilio wrote:I should have my Crew back by tomorrow then i'm off on Saturday to meet another Crew'er to buy his cap. Its a long ride on the NJ turnpike to meet him so i'll get a good chance to see if everything's ok.
After another month of driving i'll post before and after gas mileage readings and anything else i might notice. Perfect timing as its time to start the winter beach fishing
Con
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So far. I was supposed to get my crew back today but the mechanic is having problems lining up the new parts. 2 days now. When i first called this afternoon i was told that they were still taking it apart, then the service manager said that they were having problems.
Doesn't leave me with a good feeling. Oh well, its under warranty.
I hope to meet up with Mickey Saturday morning at 10am. As long as i get my crew back sometime tomorrow its on.
Stay tuned-----more to follow!!
Doesn't leave me with a good feeling. Oh well, its under warranty.
I hope to meet up with Mickey Saturday morning at 10am. As long as i get my crew back sometime tomorrow its on.
Stay tuned-----more to follow!!
- adrenalnjunky
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I dunno what's worse -- an honest service manager -- which appears to be what you have, or a good service manager that would blame it on UPS not getting the parts on time, or say the only mechanic that they have that is qualified to do the work got sick, or some other c###-and-bull story to buy time and not worry you.
Of course either way I know that something is wrong, I guess I would rather know the truth up front.
My translation of "Having trouble lining the parts up" is something along the lines of: "We dont have a single guy back here that has ever done this procedure, or anything like it because we've been able to tell anyone else that complained about it that it was normal for it to make that noise and they bought it."
But that's just me and my pessimism when it comes to dealership service departments -- with GM vehicles at least.
Of course either way I know that something is wrong, I guess I would rather know the truth up front.
My translation of "Having trouble lining the parts up" is something along the lines of: "We dont have a single guy back here that has ever done this procedure, or anything like it because we've been able to tell anyone else that complained about it that it was normal for it to make that noise and they bought it."
But that's just me and my pessimism when it comes to dealership service departments -- with GM vehicles at least.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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Its friday afternoon, and my crew is back. The noise seems to be gone (for now????). I'll drive it for awhile and see.
Apparently, GM pays 4.6 hours to the tech to make the changes. I talked to the tech and it took him 2 days. Not sure if it was a full 2 days of working but he did say this was the first time they have performed it.
I'll give them the benefit of the doubt.
Apparently, GM pays 4.6 hours to the tech to make the changes. I talked to the tech and it took him 2 days. Not sure if it was a full 2 days of working but he did say this was the first time they have performed it.
I'll give them the benefit of the doubt.
- Dragonmaster
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Your tech must have misunderstood the warranty time then, because my book lists it as 8.6 hours, there are a few numbers he has to add together for this service, not just the 4.6 they allow for the counterbalance shaft installation.rdivirgilio wrote:Its friday afternoon, and my crew is back. The noise seems to be gone (for now????). I'll drive it for awhile and see.
Apparently, GM pays 4.6 hours to the tech to make the changes. I talked to the tech and it took him 2 days. Not sure if it was a full 2 days of working but he did say this was the first time they have performed it.
I'll give them the benefit of the doubt.
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I may want to have the noise fixed too. My concern is oil leaks, if you look at the parts in the kit the tensioner bracket goes between the block & a modified timing cover that has a indentation in the mating surface. That's where I can see a possible leak.rdivirgilio wrote:Its friday afternoon, and my crew is back. The noise seems to be gone (for now????). I'll drive it for awhile and see.
Last edited by Jim on Fri Nov 14, 2003 7:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Best Regards, Jim
2004 Tahoe, Summit white, loaded up. 06 front air dam, wood interior trim, Shaved Roof Rack, Escalade rear vents, LED Tails, SLP dual cat back exhaust w/ Flowmaster 70 muffler, 20 inch 07 Sierra wheels.
2004 Tahoe, Summit white, loaded up. 06 front air dam, wood interior trim, Shaved Roof Rack, Escalade rear vents, LED Tails, SLP dual cat back exhaust w/ Flowmaster 70 muffler, 20 inch 07 Sierra wheels.
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The warranty labor hours has been adjusted.
FYI:
TSB #03-06-01-024A - (09/25/2003)
Rattle Noise In Engine (Install Timing Tensioner Kit)
1996-2003 Chevrolet Astro, Blazer, Express, S-10, Silverado
1996-2003 GMC Jimmy, Safari, Savana, Sierra, Sonoma
1996-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L V6 Engine (VINs W, X -- RPOs L35, LU3)
This bulletin is being revised to clarify warranty description information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-06-01-024 (Section 06 -- Engine/Propulsion System)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a rattle-type noise coming from the engine at approximately 1800 to 2200 RPMs.
Cause
The spark, rattle-type noise may be caused by torsional vibration of the balance shaft.
Correction
If detonation noise is present , perform detonation/spark knock diagnostics first.
Install a new tensioner assembly kit using the procedure below.
Remove the engine front cover. Refer to SI for engine front cover removal procedure.
Remove the crankshaft sensor reluctor ring and line up the timing marks on the crank gear and cam shaft gear.
Remove the camshaft gear and chain. For model years 1996-1998, remove the crankshaft sprocket using J 5825-A.
Pull the shipping pin and discard. Remove the nylon timing chain tensioner blade from the timing chain tensioner bracket.
Position the bracket on the front of the engine. The upper two attaching holes of the bracket will line up with the center two engine front cover bolt holes. The lower bracket holes will line up with the engine front cover alignment holes.
Use a hammer and the J 46165 Pin Driver to install the dowel pins through the two lower holes in the bracket and into the engine block. Make sure that the bracket is held firmly in place before proceeding.
For model years 1996-1998, install a roller-type timing chain set. Install the crankshaft sprocket using the J 5590 Crankshaft Gear Installer.
Install the timing chain around the crankshaft sprocket and position the timing chain to the driver's side of the engine.
Install the nylon timing chain tensioner guide onto the timing chain tensioner bracket pin and position the top of the guide under the tab at the top of the bracket.
Install the camshaft sprocket into the chain and then to the camshaft. Install the bolts finger-tight. Make sure the timing marks are aligned, then tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).
Install the crankshaft reluctor ring.
Install the engine front cover and place a washer under the two center cover bolts that extend through the tensioner bracket. These washers are required to maintain the proper crush on the engine front cover seal. Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 12 N·m (106 lb in).
Parts Information
Part Number; Description; Qty
12458911; Chain kit; 1
89017257; Tensioner; 1
10220906; Oil pan gasket; 1
88893989; O ring and gasket kit; 1
3754587; Water pump gasket; 2
89017259; Cover; 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation; Description; Labor Time
J1944; Tensioner, Timing Chain - Install; 0.2 hr
Add; To Replace Crankshaft Gear; 0.2 hr
Add; To Clean Parts On Vehicle over 48,280 km (30,000 mi); 0.3 hr
Add; with A/C; 0.1 hr
Add; S-10 Blazer, Pick Up, S-15 Jimmy, Sonoma With Manual Transmission; 8.4 hrs
Add; S-10 Blazer, Pick Up, S-15 Jimmy, Sonoma and Bravada with Automatic Transmission; 8.8 hrs
Add; T-10 Blazer, Pick Up, T-15 Jimmy, Sonoma With 4WD and Bravada with AWD; 4.1 hrs
Add; Express, Savanna; 3.9 hrs
Add; Silverado, Sierra with Four Wheel Drive; 4.1 hrs
Add; Astro, Safari With All Wheel Drive; 4.1 hrs
Add; Astro, Safari; 3.7 hrs
Add; Silverado, Sierra; 3.7 hrs
FYI:
TSB #03-06-01-024A - (09/25/2003)
Rattle Noise In Engine (Install Timing Tensioner Kit)
1996-2003 Chevrolet Astro, Blazer, Express, S-10, Silverado
1996-2003 GMC Jimmy, Safari, Savana, Sierra, Sonoma
1996-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L V6 Engine (VINs W, X -- RPOs L35, LU3)
This bulletin is being revised to clarify warranty description information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-06-01-024 (Section 06 -- Engine/Propulsion System)
Condition
Some customers may comment on a rattle-type noise coming from the engine at approximately 1800 to 2200 RPMs.
Cause
The spark, rattle-type noise may be caused by torsional vibration of the balance shaft.
Correction
If detonation noise is present , perform detonation/spark knock diagnostics first.
Install a new tensioner assembly kit using the procedure below.
Remove the engine front cover. Refer to SI for engine front cover removal procedure.
Remove the crankshaft sensor reluctor ring and line up the timing marks on the crank gear and cam shaft gear.
Remove the camshaft gear and chain. For model years 1996-1998, remove the crankshaft sprocket using J 5825-A.
Pull the shipping pin and discard. Remove the nylon timing chain tensioner blade from the timing chain tensioner bracket.
Position the bracket on the front of the engine. The upper two attaching holes of the bracket will line up with the center two engine front cover bolt holes. The lower bracket holes will line up with the engine front cover alignment holes.
Use a hammer and the J 46165 Pin Driver to install the dowel pins through the two lower holes in the bracket and into the engine block. Make sure that the bracket is held firmly in place before proceeding.
For model years 1996-1998, install a roller-type timing chain set. Install the crankshaft sprocket using the J 5590 Crankshaft Gear Installer.
Install the timing chain around the crankshaft sprocket and position the timing chain to the driver's side of the engine.
Install the nylon timing chain tensioner guide onto the timing chain tensioner bracket pin and position the top of the guide under the tab at the top of the bracket.
Install the camshaft sprocket into the chain and then to the camshaft. Install the bolts finger-tight. Make sure the timing marks are aligned, then tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).
Install the crankshaft reluctor ring.
Install the engine front cover and place a washer under the two center cover bolts that extend through the tensioner bracket. These washers are required to maintain the proper crush on the engine front cover seal. Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 12 N·m (106 lb in).
Parts Information
Part Number; Description; Qty
12458911; Chain kit; 1
89017257; Tensioner; 1
10220906; Oil pan gasket; 1
88893989; O ring and gasket kit; 1
3754587; Water pump gasket; 2
89017259; Cover; 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation; Description; Labor Time
J1944; Tensioner, Timing Chain - Install; 0.2 hr
Add; To Replace Crankshaft Gear; 0.2 hr
Add; To Clean Parts On Vehicle over 48,280 km (30,000 mi); 0.3 hr
Add; with A/C; 0.1 hr
Add; S-10 Blazer, Pick Up, S-15 Jimmy, Sonoma With Manual Transmission; 8.4 hrs
Add; S-10 Blazer, Pick Up, S-15 Jimmy, Sonoma and Bravada with Automatic Transmission; 8.8 hrs
Add; T-10 Blazer, Pick Up, T-15 Jimmy, Sonoma With 4WD and Bravada with AWD; 4.1 hrs
Add; Express, Savanna; 3.9 hrs
Add; Silverado, Sierra with Four Wheel Drive; 4.1 hrs
Add; Astro, Safari With All Wheel Drive; 4.1 hrs
Add; Astro, Safari; 3.7 hrs
Add; Silverado, Sierra; 3.7 hrs
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- Dragonmaster
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I have seen the teflon tensioner ina few older hondas with over 300,000 miles still look nearly brand new, so i don't think it will casue any problems for you.rdivirgilio wrote:That sounds more like it. I've been driving awhile now and the noise is no longer present. It looks like a good fix.
Any comments on how long the teflon tensioner will last??
[size=75]1 of 6 Wheatland Yellow Sonoma's in Canada
[url=http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290324509]Truck Pics[/url][/size]
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I am tired of listening to that balance shaft noise! It seems to hit between 1800-2000 rpm, and that is right where the motor is when I am driving around town. Drives me crazy and I just hate noises and rattles coming from my cars...
I first noticed it soon after buying the truck. Many trips to the dealer only to be told it is normal engine noise/vibration! (Normal for this engine design mabey!) I finally found the post here on the balance shaft ,and after presenting it to the dealer they acknowleged the condition. I now have about 25,000 miles on the truck and it seems to be louder. I am going to the dealer today to discuss having the tensioner put in. Of course I will be armed with print out that 'Marcs10cc' posted and the color pictures that "Jim' posted.
Thanks guys........
I first noticed it soon after buying the truck. Many trips to the dealer only to be told it is normal engine noise/vibration! (Normal for this engine design mabey!) I finally found the post here on the balance shaft ,and after presenting it to the dealer they acknowleged the condition. I now have about 25,000 miles on the truck and it seems to be louder. I am going to the dealer today to discuss having the tensioner put in. Of course I will be armed with print out that 'Marcs10cc' posted and the color pictures that "Jim' posted.
Thanks guys........
- quickbiker
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quickbiker wrote:Mine's very quiet.
Some of them don't make noise, some do. Mine was quiet for the first couple thousand miles, then it started. It was real hard to hear at first but now it irritating as hell. It's kind of a mood thing though. Some days I just don't pay any attention to it, other days it drives me nuts.
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i know the feeling. Once you know its there it bugs you until you find out what it is and how to fix it.
Tonight coming home from Atlantic City the winds were very strong blowing towards us as we traveled up the AC Xpressway. Around 70mph i started hearing the wind rattling something from the passenger side front window area. My wife opened everything on her side but we couldn't find it. I'll check to see if there is any molding or something loose on the outside. One thought is the wind was somehow getting into the air vent.
Now this will drive me nuts until i figure it out.
Tonight coming home from Atlantic City the winds were very strong blowing towards us as we traveled up the AC Xpressway. Around 70mph i started hearing the wind rattling something from the passenger side front window area. My wife opened everything on her side but we couldn't find it. I'll check to see if there is any molding or something loose on the outside. One thought is the wind was somehow getting into the air vent.
Now this will drive me nuts until i figure it out.
- quickbiker
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- quickbiker
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- adrenalnjunky
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Paul, since you and I don't have the noise--I guess we got the super-special 4.3.
The secret CIA "silent running" edition
The secret CIA "silent running" edition
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
There's lots of "Monday Cars" too.GaryH wrote:"Manufacturing tolerances" or something like that. Some motors are built a little "tighter" than others.quickbiker wrote:If they are all designed the same. How come it's only some that have the problem. I don't understand.
[size=75]Mark
[b][i][color=red]2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab[/color][/i][/b]
[b][color=blue]"There are no stupid questions, just stupid people."[/color][/b][/size]
[b][i][color=red]2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab[/color][/i][/b]
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- quickbiker
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- adrenalnjunky
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I think my engine was built on a Wednesday, but the front suspension was assembled first thing on Monday morning.
Torsion bars were too high, had the mysterious clunking that proper lubing fixed. Front end alignment was terrible, and the front shock was overtightened and squeaked at times when wet.
Oh well--they were all easy enough to fix.
Torsion bars were too high, had the mysterious clunking that proper lubing fixed. Front end alignment was terrible, and the front shock was overtightened and squeaked at times when wet.
Oh well--they were all easy enough to fix.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
- quickbiker
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I think mine is a "Morning After" truck!AZS10Crew wrote:There's lots of "Monday Cars" too.GaryH wrote:"Manufacturing tolerances" or something like that. Some motors are built a little "tighter" than others.quickbiker wrote:If they are all designed the same. How come it's only some that have the problem. I don't understand.