Zr2 and regular s-10 suspension differences

Justin · Post by **Justin** » Wed Nov 27, 2002 7:00 pm

I am not to familiar with how the zr2 suspension setup is but are the frames the same width? If not then I wonder if the leaf springs are different and can bolt up to our trucks? I'm sure there is more to it up front though... just a thought ... I saw a rolled zr2 outside a junkyard and i was waondering if it would be easy to switch some parts here and there...

24digger · Post by **24digger** » Wed Nov 27, 2002 7:24 pm

I have a 95 ZR2 and a 02 crewcab I was wandering the same thing, so I measured the front width and it is a little wider. I had heard that the suspension would not bolt up. Don't know about the rear though?

a2b · Post by **a2b** » Thu Nov 28, 2002 2:12 pm

nope they are different in the rear more than the front. but you do need to go back to that z and pick up all 4 skid plates. front, engine, transfer case, gas tank. they will fit on your truck. but nothing else from that truck will fit on there. there rear end is even a different size differential. and the body mounts are even different.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Nov 28, 2002 2:56 pm

are the frames the same width?

According to the Helm's manual, YES the frames are the same width.

However there are differences in mounting point lengths, I'm not sure if suspension components could be used without major modification. (springs, A-arms , etc.)

they are different in the rear more than the front

It is true that there are differences in the suspension. the Z has bigger axles, arched rear springs , track bar, longer half shafts and A-arms.

I would say that it would be possible to put the crew cab on a Zr2 chassis, it should be only a matter of relocating mounts.

Maybe some day I'll pick up a Zr2 chassis install a V-8 and then make the swap, or just get another reg. S-10 chassis and do my own mods.

Justin · Post by **Justin** » Thu Nov 28, 2002 6:09 pm

my theory, and you can laugh all you want, is locate a wrecked zr2 and try and buy the suspension components to somehow adapt to one of our trucks. If the frame is the same then somehow it can be done. If that is then done buy the bds-suspension lift for the zr2 which can jack the truck up 8" higher than what we have now. I will look into this further. look at this zr2 with 5" lift and 2" bodylift... this truck is sitting 11 inches taller than ours

http://www.bds-suspension.com/trucks_zr2pu_99.html

added the pic-HJ

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Fri Nov 29, 2002 10:07 am

"Justin"]my theory, and you can laugh all you want, is locate a wrecked zr2 and try and buy the suspension components to somehow adapt to one of our trucks. If the frame is the same then somehow it can be done. If that is then done buy the bds-suspension lift for the zr2 which can jack the truck up 8" higher than what we have now. I will look into this further. look at this zr2 with 5" lift and 2" bodylift... this truck is sitting 11 inches taller than ours

Hey, not to laugh, anything can be done. But if you had to go through all that trouble to get the ZR2 package underneath a regular S-10, what do you get for all that trouble? The same IFS crap that you have with the regular S-10, that's all. And I don't know if Realift makes a tbar relocator that works with the BDS lift.

So, if you would go through all that work, to me it's totally useless. Why, when you can get a proven kit and go SFA that would probably be cheaper and less work: http://www.setstr8.com/GM_Sseries.htm

Then you would really have something that can flex off-road and tougher.

And you can go as high as you want, no IFS limitations. Just swap the axle bigger if you want HUGE tires. Simple.

http://www.setstr8.com/GM_Sseries.htm

QnsRyche · Post by **QnsRyche** » Sat Nov 30, 2002 9:33 am

yea i was thinking about lifting mine...but now i tow a trailer and the cost of the lift [and the fact i'll never take it off road killed it

Justin · Post by **Justin** » Mon Dec 02, 2002 8:41 am

Well, I now have a dana 30 for Free!!!!! I am interested in that lift but how trustworthy is it on the street and how do they lift the rear?

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Mon Dec 02, 2002 11:29 am

Justin wrote:Well, I now have a dana 30 for Free!!!!! I am interested in that lift but how trustworthy is it on the street and how do they lift the rear?

If you're worried about the street, I wouldn't do any lift. I just like to do what is necessary for my off-road fun. There are ways to make it better on the road though. Like some good stiff anti-sway bars in the fron and maybe the rear and some way to disconnect it when off-road.

If it wasn't for my love of going off-road, the crew cab is much to nice on the road in stock form for even mess with lifting it.

a2b · Post by **a2b** » Mon Dec 02, 2002 11:47 am

yes it isnt worth doing all that custom work, getting the cc on a zr2 chasis just to put a bds on. instead, you could go SFA and then do 10" of lift if you want. better axels and transfer case, the works. costs you about 10k!

Justin · Post by **Justin** » Mon Dec 02, 2002 1:02 pm

I'd better start saving up!!!!!

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Tue Dec 03, 2002 11:48 am

a2b wrote:yes it isnt worth doing all that custom work, getting the cc on a zr2 chasis just to put a bds on. instead, you could go SFA and then do 10" of lift if you want. better axels and transfer case, the works. costs you about 10k!

Well, it depends where you get the axles and if you do the work yourself or not. 10 sounds allot, but that is prob what it cost to take it somwehre to be done. I'll be looking into this route when my front end blows up or something, which will probably be a lont time from now, cause I baby it, even on the rough trails.

a2b · Post by **a2b** » Tue Dec 03, 2002 9:22 pm

yes that is paying for someone else to do it.

this truck can be SFAed quickly for under 3k, but the problem comes with the transfer case. the computer that comes in our trucks is what is screwing the process up, thats why it costs to dang much.

but to do it right. here is the part list

front dana 44 (or if you want cheap gm8.5) a dana 30 is big freakin waste of time, you cant even put a locker in that so why even go to the hassel.

then a ford 9" in the rear.

arb lockers front and back.

bilstein 1500's all the way around.

the kit is 2k from ORU

dana 300 transfer case

new drive shaft front and rear

new leaft springs for the lift in the back (blocks if you need more lift)

leafs for front

steering system

skid plates and what not

tires and wheels

(FYI=if you find a 72-79 ford truck, it comes with a dana 44 and ford 9", and the track is just the right size for our s-10's. this will help save cash!)

this adds up quickly. and then its about 2k for labor. or you can do it yourself if you know how and have tools, loads of them.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Wed Dec 04, 2002 1:35 pm

Looks like you already did some research for this Hobbie, maybe you can do up an FAQ? Well, that kit don't need leafs up front though. It uses coil springs. From what I've read, it comes with everything up front except for the axle, so a dana 44 for the YJ set up would work or any axle set up for a YJ would work, so price can really vary there. The kit is about $2300 I belive. You would have to take care of lifting the rear, but there is really nothing to the rear. Maybe some add a leafs or diff leafs all together. I don't care for blocks. I think if you stayed with 33-35's, the stock rear would do alright, I think it's strong enough for that.

I guess if you totally decked it out you may need all that stuff, but that is really decked out Hobbie, but if you got the bucks, then do it. My rear is already about ready, I kinda stick up in the rear anyhow, that's just cause of the silly one inch of travel IFS and 2 feet of travel in the rear, LOL, just kidding.

a2b · Post by **a2b** » Wed Dec 04, 2002 4:20 pm

hey if you are going to do it, do it right. you want the back and front axels to be the same strenght and you want the weakest part of the drivetrain to be the u-joints! you dont want to get caught on the trail with snaaped axels or other stuff that you just cant fix easily and then you when you go to get parts and come back, someone stripped your truck down

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Thu Dec 05, 2002 10:20 am

a2b wrote:hey if you are going to do it, do it right. you want the back and front axels to be the same strenght and you want the weakest part of the drivetrain to be the u-joints! you dont want to get caught on the trail with snaaped axels or other stuff that you just cant fix easily and then you when you go to get parts and come back, someone stripped your truck down

Yea, you're right!!! I just really don't know enough about the lift to comment. It depends how you wheel too. I know if I ever do it, I'll know everything then! Most things I do is a first time, and I go into it knowing nothing, but always ends up working!

There are also so many variations you could do with a lift like that. You really don't need the kit at all if you really know how to set up a front end. All I would need is some blueprints since I've never done it.

Justin · Post by **Justin** » Thu Dec 05, 2002 11:29 am

I do go to a technical school and I am majoring in architecture and mechanical engineering so with my welding background and love for my truck, I'm sure I could come up with something like that setup...I am just afraid of doing somehting like that to a new truck like mine....I've got 10,000 miles left on my warranty and I have lifting hormones for this truck!!!!

a2b · Post by **a2b** » Thu Dec 05, 2002 1:58 pm

Justin wrote:I do go to a technical school and I am majoring in architecture and mechanical engineering so with my welding background and love for my truck, I'm sure I could come up with something like that setup...I am just afraid of doing somehting like that to a new truck like mine....I've got 10,000 miles left on my warranty and I have lifting hormones for this truck!!!!

well this is my first new truck and so its my first ever vehicle that i have had a dealer work on it. and what i have learned is screw the dealer. they could fix flat tire. do the lift and if it breaks, just fix it yourself - hobie

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Dec 05, 2002 6:30 pm

.I am just afraid of doing somehting like that to a new truck like mine...

Be afraid...very afraid

You might listen to that little voice once and a while (it is common sense).

It is not a good idea to mod the heck out of your one and only daily driver. I do believe in modifications to improve, for the majority of the driving to be done though. Just don't get too carried away. It is too easy to fall into the trap of modding just for the sake of something to do, take some time and try to justify it.

A better idea is to get another vehicle to modify for a special purpose (trail rig, drag car, ATV , the wife's car

, etc.)

Keep your daily driver as dependable and fuel efficient as possible.

I kind of feel like a hippocrat, but do as I say , not as I do

a2b · Post by **a2b** » Thu Dec 05, 2002 6:40 pm

yes, good idea brule,

i think i will mod the heck out of my red wagon

Conman · Post by **Conman** » Sat Dec 28, 2002 9:38 pm

http://www.mjw.com/amigo/index.shtml

Coil Over SAS on a 98 Amigo. This job was way over 10k(probably 10k in labor already).

Con

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Dec 28, 2002 9:53 pm

Conman wrote:http://www.mjw.com/amigo/index.shtml

I forwarded that to my friend who is just finishing his 7.5" IFS lift on his Amigo, Thanx.

Conman · Post by **Conman** » Sat Dec 28, 2002 10:05 pm

HenryJ wrote:
Conman wrote:http://www.mjw.com/amigo/index.shtml
I forwarded that to my friend who is just finishing his 7.5" IFS lift on his Amigo, Thanx.

7.5" IFS? I need info on this as a few want to keep IFS but still want a big lift.

Thanks.

Con

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Dec 28, 2002 10:13 pm

Conman wrote:I need info on this as a few want to keep IFS but still want a big lift.

He built it himself. He is also running a 3" body lift for a total of 10.5" lift. I'll get some photos after the tires are on it. (38.5 Swampers) or that is what he said he is putting on. The 40" tires rubbed.

I still have my doubts as to how practical it is. But then I have always been a bit more conservative.

S-10CREWCAB.NET

Zr2 and regular s-10 suspension differences

Zr2 and regular s-10 suspension differences

ZR2 and regular S-10 suspension