radiator flushing at 37k?
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radiator flushing at 37k?
check the resivoir tank and noticed the inside was dirty and low. Opened the radiator cap and noticed some rust. I will have it flushed out soon but is this common? Has anyone checked?
[size=75]05 Sierra LLY "Silver Bull"[/size]
- HenryJ
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Re: radiator flushing at 37k?
Yep, Welcome to the wonderful world of dex-clog.Justin wrote:check the resivoir tank and noticed the inside was dirty and low. Opened the radiator cap and noticed some rust. I will have it flushed out soon but is this common? Has anyone checked?
At least you caught it before it turned to jello and plugged up your heatercore.
I switched mine to green pretty early, to avoid problems.
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Had it flushed this morning at a Valvoline store. The guy was amazed that I noticed it especially after having the motor replaced. He said that the dealer who replaced the motor should have asked me to return to check all the fluids and to see if it ran well. I called the dealer around my school and he told me 2 weeks before he could flush it and they don't use "the Green" stuff. So $60 and 40 minutes later, all is well
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- adrenalnjunky
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What is the proper method to get all fo the Dex-sludge out and refil with Green?
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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A powerflush done at the local lube shop is an option.adrenalnjunky wrote:What is the proper method to get all fo the Dex-sludge out and refil with Green?
I prefer to do things myself so that I know they are done right.
I went to the local parts house and bought one of the Prestone flush kits. It includes a tee to put into the heater hose and an attachment for the garden hose to prevent over pressurizing the system.
I made the change when I installed the bigger radiator, so the majority of the coolant was drained. I flushed until it ran clean, re-assembled , warmed it up , then drained it, and repeated that process three times. Be sure to remove the expansion tank, as that is the ONLY way to get all the coolant out of it.
Once everything looked good and clear I drained it down , added the green to a 50/50 mix and one bottle of Redline's water wetter.
The flushing tee was later replaced by the vacuum operated heater control valve.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
This is why I hate mechanics. (Not you specifically, HenryJ.) I just did a search at napa.com and got no matching results for "Prestone flush kit". Did same search at pepboys.com and got about ten billion results (everything that contained "kit" in no specific order). Then I went to prestone.com and I don't see ANY "kits" just bottles/jugs of prestone products.I went to the local parts house and bought one of the Prestone flush kits.
So, how do I decide if this is maintenance/repair I can perform myself or if I'd be better off taking my truck to shop to have it done? I have no idea how much either will cost. It seems the entire industry is setup to be inconvenient to everyone. And, they wonder why people come in with with a chip on their shoulder.
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Okay, sorry I'll try to be a little more specific.barch97 wrote: So, how do I decide if this is maintenance/repair I can perform myself or if I'd be better off taking my truck to shop to have it done? I have no idea how much either will cost.
The kit I bought was available at our local NAPA , and Walmart. It is the Prestone "Flush 'n fill kit" I didn't see a part number, but can get the UPC code if needed.
NAPA online only shows the tees :
If you're careful about not overpressurizing the system that could be all you need.
Cost: tee only $.99, flush kit around $5 , coolant ?
I'd say it is pretty much a "no brainer" , doing it yourself is really pretty easy, and with out a doubt the cheapest
.
Drain as much coolant as possible, and properly dispose of it. Install the tee, attach garden hose, open radiator drain and take off cap. Turn on water to flush system. when it runs clean close and fill the system. run the engine long enough to open the thermostat, let it cool and repeat the flush until the water comes out clear (three times for me)
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
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Last edited by HenryJ on Sun Jun 13, 2004 6:08 am, edited 1 time in total.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- HenryJ
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13.8 quarts. Two gallons should be about right to get you between the recommended 50-70% mix. but get an extra gallon to fill the expansion tank and have around for refilling.barch97 wrote: What's the volume of the cooling system?
Yes, buy one of those two gallon jugs of distilled water at the grocery store, for filling.by 50/50 mix I'm guessing you mean anti-freeze/water?
Don't forget to buy a new radiator cap, the stock cap is garbage!
Drain out as much water as you can, add the two gallons of coolant, then top off with the distilled water. Fill the expansion (overflow) tank with coolant to the hot mark,
Squeeze the upper radiator hose to purge air back to the tank repeat as many times as needed to purge all the air.
Run the engine to operating temperature, and let it cool all the way down then recheck the coolant level in the expansion tank, refill if needed.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
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Ahh -- the EPA - Approved way of disposing of motor oil as well........
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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