Warranty issues so far...
Moderator: F9K9
Warranty issues so far...
Just to inform you guys and to see if anyone's had the same problems. Around 3000 miles I had the passenger door roof seal replaced because the door was misaligned and had torn a hole in it. Warranty issue, replaced after they ordered the part. Last week, at about 12K, I had the e-brake checked because it was no longer holding the truck. They replaced it with parts in stock. They told me it was a common problem with Chevy's where the drum e-brake (inside the disc) becomes misaligned and is no longer effective. Replaced and works fine now. And yesterday, I pulled all the bumpers to clean out mud and noticed that the upper nut on the front sway bar was missing. Not a good thing, so I'll take it in tomorrow. Anyone else with these same things?
I WILL have 35's on this thing sooner or later.
I had the roof seal replaced on the driver side rear door due to the door rubbing too hard against it. There is no alignment on the doors, as they are welded on, so they had to roll back (bend) the upper edge of both rear doors.
I still have the fluctuating gas gauge trouble and a hard metallic knock/pop in the front suspension when doing slow speed turns like parking or turning into a driveway. I actually feel it in the floor board like something is slipping and then knocking into place. The dealer replaced the left side ball joints and removed/lubed the sway bar, and lubed the wheel stops but it still does it!
I have not been back again yet..................
I still have the fluctuating gas gauge trouble and a hard metallic knock/pop in the front suspension when doing slow speed turns like parking or turning into a driveway. I actually feel it in the floor board like something is slipping and then knocking into place. The dealer replaced the left side ball joints and removed/lubed the sway bar, and lubed the wheel stops but it still does it!
I have not been back again yet..................
- quickbiker
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I notice that the rear driver side door was rubbing the seal right away. The first thing I did was bend it myself, no probs after that. I had the dealer replace the fuel pump in the tank cause gauge no worky. And I replaced the oild seals at the filter adapter. And the dealer also fixed the exhaust header bolts that loosened, per tb.
That's it! LOL
almost getting to 36k miles now!
That's it! LOL
almost getting to 36k miles now!
[size=75][url=http://outsideventure.com/s10crew/]01 S10 Crewcab - SAS'd[/url][/size]
Socaldave,
I am on my fourth GMC/Chevy Sonoma/S-10, in the past ten years and none of them had a gas gauge that did not fluctuate. I learned to live with them.
The front end banging sounds a lot like the problems of the early torsion bar mounts. You can look at the mounts, and they would appear new, however, the rubber has seperated from the mount. If it sounds like someone is banging on the floorpan where your feet would sit as you are driving, I would check that out. Take a 2LB hammer, or if you have a hard rubber mallot, bang on the torsion bar, and see, and of course hear if it rattles. These torsion bars run along the frame, and the mount is just behind and below the front seats. It will only get worse. Most people change the shocks, and the ball joints only to find the annoying noise is still there. It is about a twenty dollar part, and the drivers side is easier to put in than the passenger side because the muffler is in the way,, but you can cut the bolt down on the mount and slip it in place.
I hope this is your banging noise.
I am on my fourth GMC/Chevy Sonoma/S-10, in the past ten years and none of them had a gas gauge that did not fluctuate. I learned to live with them.
The front end banging sounds a lot like the problems of the early torsion bar mounts. You can look at the mounts, and they would appear new, however, the rubber has seperated from the mount. If it sounds like someone is banging on the floorpan where your feet would sit as you are driving, I would check that out. Take a 2LB hammer, or if you have a hard rubber mallot, bang on the torsion bar, and see, and of course hear if it rattles. These torsion bars run along the frame, and the mount is just behind and below the front seats. It will only get worse. Most people change the shocks, and the ball joints only to find the annoying noise is still there. It is about a twenty dollar part, and the drivers side is easier to put in than the passenger side because the muffler is in the way,, but you can cut the bolt down on the mount and slip it in place.
I hope this is your banging noise.
I had the seal replaced on the right rear door. I couldnít see any adjustment (welded hinges) and the last thing I would do is bend any thing since I have been impressed since day one with the way this truck fits. The original WS was on with double sticky tape, I noticed the WS wasnít down in the channel as far as it could be. The dealer installed the new one & I noticed it was beginning to rub, so I released the tape at that point & readhered it in a lower position, perfect now.
I went over my truck underneath within one week of taking delivery of it.
I found:
1. Wires that needed wire tied out of the way so they donít rub.
2. The 2 sway bar link bolts were not tight.
3. A door rear hinge pin missing the retaining washer.
4. Right hood hinge with enough play to cause a solid rattling sound when going over bumps.
5. Air cleaner box was rubbing a cooler line to the radiator.
All these things I considered very minor & fixed then myself. This is my first new vehicle I expected some flaws in the assembly process. At 12,000 miles the only warranty repair done is the weather strip, I am very happy
I went over my truck underneath within one week of taking delivery of it.
I found:
1. Wires that needed wire tied out of the way so they donít rub.
2. The 2 sway bar link bolts were not tight.
3. A door rear hinge pin missing the retaining washer.
4. Right hood hinge with enough play to cause a solid rattling sound when going over bumps.
5. Air cleaner box was rubbing a cooler line to the radiator.
All these things I considered very minor & fixed then myself. This is my first new vehicle I expected some flaws in the assembly process. At 12,000 miles the only warranty repair done is the weather strip, I am very happy
Last edited by Jim on Sat Feb 08, 2003 1:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Best Regards, Jim
2004 Tahoe, Summit white, loaded up. 06 front air dam, wood interior trim, Shaved Roof Rack, Escalade rear vents, LED Tails, SLP dual cat back exhaust w/ Flowmaster 70 muffler, 20 inch 07 Sierra wheels.
2004 Tahoe, Summit white, loaded up. 06 front air dam, wood interior trim, Shaved Roof Rack, Escalade rear vents, LED Tails, SLP dual cat back exhaust w/ Flowmaster 70 muffler, 20 inch 07 Sierra wheels.
- Azreloader
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Warranty Repairs?
My truck turned over 10K miles today and I haven't had it in for warranty work yet. I noticed the gas gauge thing, but my 96 Silverado did the same thing so I figured I would just live with it. I know when the trip odometer hits 270 miles, I better be finding a gas station.
I have had 2 full size GM trucks, 2 Suburbans and 1 S10 Blazer and I love my Baby Crew the best!
I have had 2 full size GM trucks, 2 Suburbans and 1 S10 Blazer and I love my Baby Crew the best!
- Azreloader
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- Joined: Sat Dec 07, 2002 6:24 am
- Location: Tempe, AZ
Warranty Repairs?
My truck turned over 10K miles today and I haven't had it in for warranty work yet. I noticed the gas gauge thing, but my 96 Silverado did the same thing so I figured I would just live with it. I know when the trip odometer hits 270 miles, I better be finding a gas station.
I have had 2 full size GM trucks, 2 Suburbans and 1 S10 Blazer and I love my Baby Crew the best!
I have had 2 full size GM trucks, 2 Suburbans and 1 S10 Blazer and I love my Baby Crew the best!
- SlickDaddy
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Paint? Is the paint staining or pealing?QnsRyche wrote:lets see,,,
paint.... gas gage... and tomorrow paint again
Best Regards, Jim
2004 Tahoe, Summit white, loaded up. 06 front air dam, wood interior trim, Shaved Roof Rack, Escalade rear vents, LED Tails, SLP dual cat back exhaust w/ Flowmaster 70 muffler, 20 inch 07 Sierra wheels.
2004 Tahoe, Summit white, loaded up. 06 front air dam, wood interior trim, Shaved Roof Rack, Escalade rear vents, LED Tails, SLP dual cat back exhaust w/ Flowmaster 70 muffler, 20 inch 07 Sierra wheels.
- Conman
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Strange problem this morning, The heater vent control was not working. It was stuck in face vents only even while trying to change the knob to defrost mode. Only way to get it to move was to turn the knob to off. it works fine now. If it happens again, I'll take it in.
So far no other real problems. I do have squeaky rear shocks though.
Cheers,
Con
So far no other real problems. I do have squeaky rear shocks though.
Cheers,
Con
[size=75]2007 Hummer H3 all Stock
Sold: 2004 Chevy Avalanche Z71 all Stock.
Sold: 2002 Chevy S10 Crew Cab ZR5 - Mods: Truxedo Bed Cover, APC and TYC Lights.[/size]
Sold: 2004 Chevy Avalanche Z71 all Stock.
Sold: 2002 Chevy S10 Crew Cab ZR5 - Mods: Truxedo Bed Cover, APC and TYC Lights.[/size]
- webrulez80
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Annoying 4x4 Problem
I've had my 2001 Crew Cab into the dealer 3 times since I bought it in January of 2001. When I try to engage 4HI a loud grinding noise is made and the truck stays in 2HI. The dealership has replaced the, "K4122 Module, Transfer Case Shift", each time. The replacements happened December 2001, January 2003, March 2003. Anybody heard of such problems or experienced them? The dealership says its a known problem with the electronic transfer case. As long as it keeps happening they will keep replacing it. Very annoying!
- Conman
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Conman wrote:Strange problem this morning, The heater vent control was not working. It was stuck in face vents only even while trying to change the knob to defrost mode. Only way to get it to move was to turn the knob to off. it works fine now. If it happens again, I'll take it in.
So far no other real problems. I do have squeaky rear shocks though.
Cheers,
Con
Still having this problem, but more often now. Sound like a air leak so I guess the vent control is vacum assisted. I'll take it to the dealer and let you guys know.
Cheers,
Con
[size=75]2007 Hummer H3 all Stock
Sold: 2004 Chevy Avalanche Z71 all Stock.
Sold: 2002 Chevy S10 Crew Cab ZR5 - Mods: Truxedo Bed Cover, APC and TYC Lights.[/size]
Sold: 2004 Chevy Avalanche Z71 all Stock.
Sold: 2002 Chevy S10 Crew Cab ZR5 - Mods: Truxedo Bed Cover, APC and TYC Lights.[/size]
- quickbiker
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Just get one of these here thingy doodles: http://www.4wheelparts.com/product2.asp ... OK&cat=DRI
Mine is still functioning great, but still be nice to have. You could do 2 lo with it.
Mine is still functioning great, but still be nice to have. You could do 2 lo with it.
[size=75][url=http://outsideventure.com/s10crew/]01 S10 Crewcab - SAS'd[/url][/size]
- HenryJ
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quickbiker wrote:Just get one of these here thingy doodles: http://www.4wheelparts.com/product2.asp ... OK&cat=DRI
Mine is still functioning great, but still be nice to have. You could do 2 lo with it.
That takes care of the front axle engaging, but what about the transfercase encoder motor problems?
Is there a manual shifter for the transfer case?
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- Warnoffroad
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- quickbiker
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HenryJ wrote:quickbiker wrote:Just get one of these here thingy doodles: http://www.4wheelparts.com/product2.asp ... OK&cat=DRI
Mine is still functioning great, but still be nice to have. You could do 2 lo with it.
That takes care of the front axle engaging, but what about the transfercase encoder motor problems?
Is there a manual shifter for the transfer case?
I never heard of one, but anything is possible if you really want it!
[size=75][url=http://outsideventure.com/s10crew/]01 S10 Crewcab - SAS'd[/url][/size]
No problems
3 months and almost 5K miles later I haven't had any problems yet. Had oil changed at 3K, that's the only time I've taken it in for "service". I have the loud fan when cold problem addressed in another thread but that's about it. I've learned to live with it.
I wait until about 300 miles before I find a station. I guess it depends on what type of driving you do, I guess. Highway driving I'm getting around 21 and a mix of driving I'm getting 18. Not too bad.
I wait until about 300 miles before I find a station. I guess it depends on what type of driving you do, I guess. Highway driving I'm getting around 21 and a mix of driving I'm getting 18. Not too bad.
Just turned 14,000 mi. no warranty issues to speak of just the rear door drip rail weatherstrip. I just gave it the spring super clean up...not a speck of fallout on it & it's never been in the garage, I haven't waxed it yet because it's still smooth enough the flies need mountain climbing equipment to stay on it.
Best Regards, Jim
2004 Tahoe, Summit white, loaded up. 06 front air dam, wood interior trim, Shaved Roof Rack, Escalade rear vents, LED Tails, SLP dual cat back exhaust w/ Flowmaster 70 muffler, 20 inch 07 Sierra wheels.
2004 Tahoe, Summit white, loaded up. 06 front air dam, wood interior trim, Shaved Roof Rack, Escalade rear vents, LED Tails, SLP dual cat back exhaust w/ Flowmaster 70 muffler, 20 inch 07 Sierra wheels.
- quickbiker
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Warranty Repairs
Stuck passenger seat belt, passenger door seal and the little thing that holds the seat belt buckle in position when not in use (where it's easy to grab).
3K miles and counting.
Otherwise, as the questionaires say: I'm completely satisfied.
Spidey
3K miles and counting.
Otherwise, as the questionaires say: I'm completely satisfied.
Spidey
- HenryJ
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Well mine goes in for lower ball loints and a left side wheel bearing next week.
You have to really watch the Tech's! I had to talk to the Service manager to get them to replace the lower balljoints!
I had already checked them finding .130 horizontal slack in the right side and .160 in the left. Maximum allowable is .125.
After they inspected the truck I asked what parts had been ordered, they said one wheel bearing and after my asking why the bad balljoints were not being replaced they said that they were fine a wheel bearing was the only thing they found. I KNEW BETTER! So I was refered to the service manager, who said that they probably had not checked them and would have to send it out to an alignment shop to check the ball joints, they do not have a rack for checking them. (Total BS! ) It does not require a "rack" to check ball joints. What they did not know is that I had already gone to the alignment shop to confirm the readings I got using a dial indicator at my shop.
So, after explaining this they ordered the parts.
Moral of the story: do your homework and do NOT assume that they know what they are doing or will do the right thing , just because they work for a GM dealer.
You have to really watch the Tech's! I had to talk to the Service manager to get them to replace the lower balljoints!
I had already checked them finding .130 horizontal slack in the right side and .160 in the left. Maximum allowable is .125.
After they inspected the truck I asked what parts had been ordered, they said one wheel bearing and after my asking why the bad balljoints were not being replaced they said that they were fine a wheel bearing was the only thing they found. I KNEW BETTER! So I was refered to the service manager, who said that they probably had not checked them and would have to send it out to an alignment shop to check the ball joints, they do not have a rack for checking them. (Total BS! ) It does not require a "rack" to check ball joints. What they did not know is that I had already gone to the alignment shop to confirm the readings I got using a dial indicator at my shop.
So, after explaining this they ordered the parts.
Moral of the story: do your homework and do NOT assume that they know what they are doing or will do the right thing , just because they work for a GM dealer.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- Dragonmaster
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HenryJ wrote:Well mine goes in for lower ball loints and a left side wheel bearing next week.
You have to really watch the Tech's! I had to talk to the Service manager to get them to replace the lower balljoints!
I had already checked them finding .130 horizontal slack in the right side and .160 in the left. Maximum allowable is .125.
After they inspected the truck I asked what parts had been ordered, they said one wheel bearing and after my asking why the bad balljoints were not being replaced they said that they were fine a wheel bearing was the only thing they found. I KNEW BETTER! So I was refered to the service manager, who said that they probably had not checked them and would have to send it out to an alignment shop to check the ball joints, they do not have a rack for checking them. (Total BS! ) It does not require a "rack" to check ball joints. What they did not know is that I had already gone to the alignment shop to confirm the readings I got using a dial indicator at my shop.
So, after explaining this they ordered the parts.
Moral of the story: do your homework and do NOT assume that they know what they are doing or will do the right thing , just because they work for a GM dealer.
I gave up on the dealer quite some time ago. GM keeps hounding me about upgrading my warranty to the extended one, for a large amount of cash of course. I don't see any point.
They...
a) can't
b) won't
c) all of the above
...fix the problems I've had so far. Why extend the warranty? It's useless now. I've had a weird shifting problem with my truck from day one. I've had it back twice now. Once they tried to say it was low on fluid. BS, I checked it. The other time, "we couldn't duplicate the problem". Hmm, might help to drive it next time (I checked the mileage). I'm not even thinking about trading or anything. I've had several new vehicles in the last 10 years and had the same problems with all the dealers. Heck with it.
While I'm sort of on the subject, does anyone else's do this? Slow down to roughly 16mph and then start to accelerate moderately, kind of like going around a corner. Does your tranny feel like it's shifted into neutral and then it kind of thumps back in gear? Mine does. Annoying.
- quickbiker
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Yea, Gary. Mine does the same thing at about 20mph. It feels like back-lash in the rear diff when it shifts from 3rd to 2nd. I just put it in 2nd if I know I'm gonna stay that slow for a while. All vehicles have that to some extent, but it's rather harsh for the s-10. That's the only thing about that tranny that has annoyed me. Other than that, It's been my favorite tranny. I sure beats the sucky tranny I had in the 93 Dakota I used to have.
[size=75][url=http://outsideventure.com/s10crew/]01 S10 Crewcab - SAS'd[/url][/size]
- quickbiker
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Dragonmaster wrote:Can someone expand on the torsionbar mount things? How do you check if it's worn?
Edit: Is it this thing?
Yea, that's it, but I would think it would take forever to wear those out. I got new ones just cause I screwed mine up on rocks with the sucky TM drops.
[size=75][url=http://outsideventure.com/s10crew/]01 S10 Crewcab - SAS'd[/url][/size]
Yup. Sure does, and sure is. It can't decide what gear to use or something. I also had the gas gauge problem resulting in them dropping my gas tank and replacing the fuel pump unit. Other than that, not been in for warranty service.GaryH wrote:While I'm sort of on the subject, does anyone else's do this? Slow down to roughly 16mph and then start to accelerate moderately, kind of like going around a corner. Does your tranny feel like it's shifted into neutral and then it kind of thumps back in gear? Mine does. Annoying.
[size=75][url=http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mikeh3235/lst?.dir=/&.src=ph&.done=http%3a//f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mikeh3235/lst%3f%26.dir=/2002%2bGMC%2bCrew%2bCab-Spacers%26.src=ph%26.view=l&.view=l]Yahoo Photo Pages[/url]
(previous) 2002 GMC Sonoma Crew Cab
(now) 2004 Nissan Titan LE 4x4 Crew Cab[/size]
(previous) 2002 GMC Sonoma Crew Cab
(now) 2004 Nissan Titan LE 4x4 Crew Cab[/size]
Mike H. wrote:Yup. Sure does, and sure is. It can't decide what gear to use or something. I also had the gas gauge problem resulting in them dropping my gas tank and replacing the fuel pump unit. Other than that, not been in for warranty service.GaryH wrote:While I'm sort of on the subject, does anyone else's do this? Slow down to roughly 16mph and then start to accelerate moderately, kind of like going around a corner. Does your tranny feel like it's shifted into neutral and then it kind of thumps back in gear? Mine does. Annoying.
Hmm, sounds like we have twin trucks. My gas gauge went out too. So far, it's the only thing the dealer managed to fix. I had the same feeling on the tranny. It's like it's between gears or something and then when you give it gas, it's caught off guard and gets confused trying to find a gear to go into. I wonder if it isn't a firmware version issue in the PCM but when I ran that by the dealer, all I got was a confused look. They were clueless.
- Conman
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GaryH wrote:Mike H. wrote:Yup. Sure does, and sure is. It can't decide what gear to use or something. I also had the gas gauge problem resulting in them dropping my gas tank and replacing the fuel pump unit. Other than that, not been in for warranty service.GaryH wrote:While I'm sort of on the subject, does anyone else's do this? Slow down to roughly 16mph and then start to accelerate moderately, kind of like going around a corner. Does your tranny feel like it's shifted into neutral and then it kind of thumps back in gear? Mine does. Annoying.
Hmm, sounds like we have twin trucks. My gas gauge went out too. So far, it's the only thing the dealer managed to fix. I had the same feeling on the tranny. It's like it's between gears or something and then when you give it gas, it's caught off guard and gets confused trying to find a gear to go into. I wonder if it isn't a firmware version issue in the PCM but when I ran that by the dealer, all I got was a confused look. They were clueless.
If I understand what your saying, the trans seems lazy and does not down shift fast enough. It happened to me twice, both decelerating from 55 to about 20s and hitting the gas again(I was slowing down for a stoplight that turned green). Mine did not thump, it just seems it was still in 4th but I was only going 20mph. It has not happened in a while so I think it's just a trait of the crew..... I only have about 5500miles on my crew so it's still young.
Cheers,
Con
[size=75]2007 Hummer H3 all Stock
Sold: 2004 Chevy Avalanche Z71 all Stock.
Sold: 2002 Chevy S10 Crew Cab ZR5 - Mods: Truxedo Bed Cover, APC and TYC Lights.[/size]
Sold: 2004 Chevy Avalanche Z71 all Stock.
Sold: 2002 Chevy S10 Crew Cab ZR5 - Mods: Truxedo Bed Cover, APC and TYC Lights.[/size]
I've got about 17,000. Mine does it pretty frequently around town. It doesn't "thump", just noticably not in a gear or something and you have to wait for it to find one. Hopefully the HPIII will cure that once I get mine and set for firm shifts.Conman wrote:If I understand what your saying, the trans seems lazy and does not down shift fast enough. It happened to me twice, both decelerating from 55 to about 20s and hitting the gas again(I was slowing down for a stoplight that turned green). Mine did not thump, it just seems it was still in 4th but I was only going 20mph. It has not happened in a while so I think it's just a trait of the crew..... I only have about 5500miles on my crew so it's still young.
[size=75][url=http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mikeh3235/lst?.dir=/&.src=ph&.done=http%3a//f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mikeh3235/lst%3f%26.dir=/2002%2bGMC%2bCrew%2bCab-Spacers%26.src=ph%26.view=l&.view=l]Yahoo Photo Pages[/url]
(previous) 2002 GMC Sonoma Crew Cab
(now) 2004 Nissan Titan LE 4x4 Crew Cab[/size]
(previous) 2002 GMC Sonoma Crew Cab
(now) 2004 Nissan Titan LE 4x4 Crew Cab[/size]