Evap Vent Valve Filter

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Oct 13, 2007 7:28 am

I bet not too many have been servicing this frequently-

This is the evaporative emissions systems vent valve. One of the culprits when you get those pesky Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (small leak) P0443 , Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow P0442 , Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak/no flow) P0456 , Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (very small leak) P0460 , etc.

This is located on the crossmember in front of the spare tire. Just above the driveshafts rear u-joint.

Mine was pretty dirty and already sucking dirt. It did not have a failure code yet-

To remove the valve pry the center finger of the bracket outward with a screw driver. It will then slide off the bracket. Use pliers to move the hose clamp back and pull the hose off. Then lift the clip for the electrical connector and take the wiring off. The top cover can be removed for access to the filter by gently pryng loose the four retention clips.

This dirt eventually plugs the valve open and then fills the charcoal canister. Usually you get the codes and suspect the gas cap. You notice dust on the inside of the cap, but the cap is still good. Those are key indicators.
I cleaned mine up with compressed air and cut a couple extra pieces of filter media from a sheet of Scotch Brite.

It should help to filter the dirt out better and give me a longer service interval.
I would suggest servicing this annually.

12bridn · Post by **12bridn** » Tue May 06, 2008 4:30 am

You're right, don't neglect it.

http://www.s-10crewcab.com/phpBB2/viewt ... p+canister

I am ashamed to admit that I still have not cleaned it and just have a disconnected hose dangling there. Man does time fly.

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Thu May 29, 2008 6:24 am

I've been trying to figure out my Evap Leak for over a year now...

..This will be getting cleaned this weekend.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu May 29, 2008 2:45 pm

WVHogRider wrote:.....This will be getting cleaned this weekend.

Gonna call bullchit on this one. Some cold beer or bike riding weather will reach out and ruin the effort

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Fri May 30, 2008 4:41 am

f9k9 wrote:
WVHogRider wrote:.....This will be getting cleaned this weekend.
Gonna call bullchit on this one. Some cold beer or bike riding weather will reach out and ruin the effort

You'd be correct if I didn't have my daughter this weekend....she can't reach the passenger pegs yet. So it will get cleaned.

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Fri May 30, 2008 7:45 pm

Yeah, mine's messing up again too. Anybody tried to relocate this troublesome thing to somewhere else cleaner? I'm on a lot of dirty/muddy roads so the oem location isn't helping in my case.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat May 31, 2008 7:01 pm

Mine set the dreaded P0442 last week. I cleared it and finally got a "round tu" doing something about it.
I expected it to be dirty. It was not too bad. The valve had failed though. It was somewhat restricted in the normally open position. Once power was applied it did not seal. Very little difference. It leaks , therefore it is bad.

Too late in the day to get a new one. Check the stock of local stores I would have to wait until Monday to get a new one. They run $20 for an Echlin replacement.

I just happened to have a used one off of a 2004 Silverado at the shop. It cleaned up and functioned properly.

As you can see the design is different. It is only the filter cup that differs. I recently learned that the 2000 Silverado had this design as an update replacement. The design is superior. It has a reservoir to trap the dirt. This can fill up, but at least it does not sit on top of the filter media. there is twice as much filter foam and it is built like a dust separator. much different from the sloppy design our stock canister vent valve uses.
It is plug and play. I had to bend the bracket out a little for clearance, but that was all.

None of the vent valves available through NAPA use this design. It may be too new to the aftermarket suppliers. The old valve would fit in the newer stuff too and that is what they show.

I do not know if this is going to be THE answer, but it sure looks to be an improvement.

It takes two consecutive failures to set the code. My battery switch had been disconnected a couple times in the last week. I am sure that again cleared codes that would have been set.
Now only time will tell if this works :fingers crossed:

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Sat May 31, 2008 8:05 pm

Looks better than the stock one. Keep us advised of success or failure Brule. Thanks

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat May 31, 2008 9:34 pm

Sounds good Brule. I was hoping for a successful report from our friend in WV by now.

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 1:43 pm

It was cleaned Sunday, as well as some replaced driver side door pins/bushings...

...but the truck has only been started twice since (today to & from work), as the weather was too nice & the new GF wanted to go for a ride....

Must be past Reed's bedtime.....

....j/k....

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 9:36 am

Two or three starts later and the P0442 code came back.

Brule....How do you test it to see if the valve is failing to close? Or should I just assume that this needs replaced.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 3:40 pm

WVHogRider wrote:Two or three starts later and the P0442 code came back. ...How do you test it to see if the valve is failing to close? Or should I just assume that this needs replaced.

I am learning more about these as I play with them a little.
You can test it by applying 9-12 VDC to the terminals of the connector. It should activate the solenoid and stop flow. If the solenoid does not activate it fails and must be replaced. If it activates , but does not seal you need to check the spring and rubber seat on the valve.

If you lift the retaining tab on the top of the solenoid it will rotate-

Once in this position the ears line up and it can be separated-

This is what should be done prior to cleaning. It is just too easy to dislodge the rubber seal on the valve.

Looking in the outlet port of the valve you can see a spring. The spring holds a rubber washer to the seat of the valve. The plastic valve seat has a raised nub in the center that holds the rubber washer in place. The spring holds this against the seat. If the rubber washer is out of place a small pick can be used to move it back into position and align the spring.

If you blow out the assembly with compressed air it is very easy to dislodge the rubber washer. This does not let is seal properly. I inadvertently did this to a couple of the valves I cleaned. Live and learn.

Make sure the o-ring that seals the valve assembly to the filter housing looks good and is clean before reassembly.
Both the newer assembly and the older style like ours, use the same type of solenoid. The newer style has a better placement and design for the rubber o-ring that seals it to the filter housing.

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Fri Jun 13, 2008 9:42 am

Well then...

..Looks like I might just throw some money at it & buy a new one....

....I'm as good with electronics as Reed is with waterfoul.....

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jun 13, 2008 12:17 pm

Worth looking at the rubber seat. The solenoids are pretty fool proof and should throw an open circuit code.

Sonoma GT · Post by **Sonoma GT** » Tue Jul 01, 2008 1:46 pm

DTC code PO442 is driving me crazy. I tried a new GM gas cap,removed and cleaned and tested the purge valve and tightened the fuel filler hose clamps. Code comes back after clearing it each time. It takes about 2 days and then there it is again. I am going back out to look at the hoses again right now. Any more tips ?

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Jul 01, 2008 2:47 pm

Test the valve. A 9 volt battery will be enough to test it. It is likely that you did as I and dislodged the seal when you cleaned it. Double check that.

If all else fails replace the valve. I finally had to do that myself.
I am running AC Delco # 214-1078 , GM # 10382105

Sonoma GT · Post by **Sonoma GT** » Tue Jul 01, 2008 3:12 pm

I did test the valve and the seal. It seems to be closing off complelety and stoping all flow when energized. I'd say it's working properly. I guess i'll replace it and see.

Sonoma GT · Post by **Sonoma GT** » Thu Jul 03, 2008 7:19 pm

New valve installed tonight. Hopefully no more code 442.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Jul 03, 2008 8:49 pm

:fingerscrossed:

Sonoma GT · Post by **Sonoma GT** » Thu Jul 03, 2008 9:02 pm

fingerscrossed:

And a prayer. I'm not to confident in this one.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Jul 03, 2008 9:19 pm

Ah , it will do fine. Mine threw a light too after I cleaned it and fixed it. That is why I went new. It has been good for a while now. I have not been driving it enough to be sure though.

Sonoma GT · Post by **Sonoma GT** » Sat Jul 05, 2008 7:23 am

Man I wish cursing was acceptable on this forum. I need to vent. The Freekin code is back. New gas cap, New purge valve, tightened the filler neck and vent hose and the PO442 comes back in a day or two each time .Thinking about how to make a smoke tester because I refuse to let this thing get the better of me. I’m going now to install a transfer case switch to stop the possibility of it causing a vacuum leak in the new Heat
and AC control that I still need to get. The hissing is getting to me.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jul 05, 2008 8:02 am

Sonoma GT wrote:... code is back. New gas cap, New purge valve, tightened the filler neck and vent hose and the PO442 comes back in a day or two each time .

Year, make and model please.

Rocks can get stuck under the charcoal canister. Pull it and check it for leaks where they have worn through.

Over fill the gas tank and make sure you do not have a crack/leak in the fuel tank where the neck attaches.

Sonoma GT · Post by **Sonoma GT** » Sat Jul 05, 2008 8:48 am

Its just like yours. 2001 s10 Crew.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jul 05, 2008 9:13 am

Plastic or steel fuel tank? What was the date of manufacture? (Drivers door panel tag)

Sonoma GT · Post by **Sonoma GT** » Sat Jul 05, 2008 9:38 am

Steel Tank Manufacture date 05-01 I find no holes or leak in charcoal canister or hose. I just cut the end off of the hose at the purge valve and put on a new clamp to elemanate and chance of a leak there but I don't think their was one.

BADs Crew · Post by **BADs Crew** » Sat Jul 05, 2008 11:49 am

HenryJ wrote:Ah , it will do fine. Mine threw a light too after I cleaned it and fixed it. That is why I went new. It has been good for a while now. I have not been driving it enough to be sure though.

Dealer or NAPA part HJ? and what was the cost?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jul 05, 2008 3:31 pm

BADs Crew wrote:Dealer or NAPA part HJ? and what was the cost?

I bought AC Delco through the local GM dealer for $18

A new gas cap was mentioned. Did you buy a GM part or aftermarket? Not all are created equal. The spring loaded valve can be really weak on some of the aftermarket caps. Enough so that they will not retain enough vacuum to pass the system test.

Sonoma GT · Post by **Sonoma GT** » Sat Jul 05, 2008 8:17 pm

Gas cap is genuine GM part from Chevrolet dealer. Purge valve is AC Delco ACD part # 214-633 ,Gm part # 12559015

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jul 05, 2008 9:38 pm

Sonoma GT wrote:Gas cap is genuine GM part from Chevrolet dealer. Purge valve is AC Delco ACD part # 214-633 ,Gm part # 12559015

Purge valve , or vent valve?

Sonoma GT · Post by **Sonoma GT** » Sun Jul 06, 2008 4:17 am

It is the only valve that I know of that has a hose going to it back near the vapor canister near the rear axle. The valve that this thread is about.
I know that there is a purge solenoid mounted on the top left side of the engine. I did nothing to that solenoid.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jul 06, 2008 7:14 am

Guess you are going to have to use a hand vacuum pump and start testing lines, valves, etc. to find your leak. Sorry I could not help.

Sonoma GT · Post by **Sonoma GT** » Sun Jul 06, 2008 7:40 am

I was already checking things with a hand vacuum pump. I started that yesterday and so far found nothing. I going to go back at it when I find some time over the next few days.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jul 06, 2008 9:07 am

Let us know what you find.

Sonoma GT · Post by **Sonoma GT** » Fri Jul 11, 2008 4:04 pm

I just found the problem. I took apart the entire fuel filler neck to clean and wire wheel all of the rust off of the surface so that I could be sure to get a good seal. When I started to clean off a lot of very heavy rust I started to see small holes on the neck. After some more cleaning it was apparent that this thing is gone. Totally rusted and full of many small holes. I will post some pics later when I have time. Where can I get one of these Quickly. Any thoughts. Options. Opinions. List price on GMPARTS DIRECT is $160.52,Your price $98.49. I need my truck and can't wait for their slow service. Dealers here are closed but will most likely want $160.52. I guess I'll see tomorow.

Sonoma GT · Post by **Sonoma GT** » Fri Jul 11, 2008 6:36 pm

Picture of the filler neck.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Jul 11, 2008 7:54 pm

No luck with rock auto.com. looks like a salvage yard, the dealer or GMparts Direct are the only choices unless maybe LMC.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jul 11, 2008 7:56 pm

Unreal. You are going to have to get better at keeping the salt washed off and things coated to prevent this kind of oxidation.
You may need to go to a plastic fuel tank and the new filler hose before you're done.

Sonoma GT · Post by **Sonoma GT** » Fri Jul 11, 2008 8:11 pm

The strange thing is that most of the truck including the fuel tank look fine. No more rust than you would expect for a 2001 around here. How different is this neck compared to a non crew s10? I can adapt things somewhat. I'm a machinist by trade. I was pondering making the whole thing but that is fairly involved. I think I'd have little chance of finding a CrewCab in a salvage yard around here.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jul 11, 2008 8:16 pm

You may be surprised. There are getting to be a few in yards around here. Take a look. You may find one.

BADs Crew · Post by **BADs Crew** » Sat Jul 12, 2008 4:35 am

That's a pricey item.!! LMC $189.95. I hate to see what a dealer wants for it. What about the S-10 Warehouse guy on eBay? They have this Bed, I would bet they have the filler neck. You should send them an email. JB weld the holes up until you get your hands on the part if necessary.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sat Jul 12, 2008 6:02 am

I wonder if gas itself could cause this kind of corrosion ?Were you topping the tank off to the top of the filler neck?

Sonoma GT · Post by **Sonoma GT** » Sat Jul 12, 2008 7:48 am

Local chevy dealer was very helpful. Part not available from GM any longer. Parts guy at dealer gave me the phone number of 6 dealers that have 1 in stock but I have not contacted them yet. Many are closed on Saturday. I sent email to S-10 warehouse on ebay and also have on-line used parts places looking. I patched up the old one to hold for a few days until I get a new or used one. No I don't top off the tank normally.

Sonoma GT · Post by **Sonoma GT** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 4:49 pm

I called 6 dealers that my local dealer told me had a filler neck. All but one of them said that they either did not have one or that it was reserved for a customers truck. One had it for $160.52 + shipping. I told him to keep it. I ordered it from GM Partsdirect. Total price $120.16 .Due to arrive Tuesday. Hopefully no more code PO 442 after that.

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Wed Jul 23, 2008 3:17 pm

My SES light came on early in July. The next day I had the code read up at Murray's and I got PO442. I cleared the code and drove home (1 mile away). I did a quick search and came across this thread. I pulled the unit off and cleaned it out really well and reinstalled it. It's been just over 2 weeks and I have not seen the light come back on at all! Thanks for the detailed write up!

Sonoma GT · Post by **Sonoma GT** » Wed Jul 23, 2008 4:11 pm

This should be the end of Code PO442,once I get it installed.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jul 25, 2008 7:12 pm

HenryJ wrote:AC Delco # 214-1078 , GM # 10382105

Hold on to this part number as it may become difficult to find.
GM is still trying to find an answer. Too bad they seem to be taking the "baling wire and tape" approach. The latest is that several part numbers now change up to a part number for a kit. The kit is incomplete and very expensive. What they did is to remove the filter for relocation up near the transmission. Nice idea, but kinda dumb in the application.
The kit is just over $115. All they give you is a solenoid with what appears to be a separator attached and a separate filter. No hoses. The filter is based upon our original rectangular assembly. A small one cubic inch foam filter. If you cut off the bottom half of our filter that is what you get. Open to the elements and extremely lacking on filtering ability. The foam is not dense.
The idea is for you to buy hose and zip-ties to attach this filter to the fuel lines up by the transmission. 5/8" hose is needed to run back to where the valve mounts in the stock location.
Having seen this, I said, "You're kidding, right?"

I bought another of the one listed by part number above , as it was still available and still $18. Attached with a piece of hose. I can buy six of these and still be money ahead of that kit. Lately it has not been the valve failing, but instead the solenoid. The new kit uses the same solenoid. What do you do if that new solenoid fails? It is not sold separately from the kit, so you pay another $115. How about just that filter can it be purchased by itself? No. Again part of the kit only.
I am not sure what GM is trying to do, but I do not approve. I hope they don't discontinue the one above. Right now I think it is the best option in all cases.

Sonoma GT · Post by **Sonoma GT** » Tue Jul 29, 2008 3:35 pm

The evap. system code is gone at last . After a lot of time and replacing a few parts the new fuel filler neck was the fix. The evap system monitor on my code reader finally cleared it after a month of trying to find the leak. Anyone that can't find the reason for Code PO442 or maybe other evap. system leak codes keep this in mind. Filler neck was rusted bad with holes.

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Tue Aug 05, 2008 5:20 pm

The light came back on the other day. Same code, PO442. This time I inspected the filler neck. I took off the hose clamp and slid the rubber hose up higher to a cleaner section of the filler neck b/c it was getting a little rusty (not nearly as bad as the picture above) and put on a new hose clamp. I then sealed it and wrapped some tape around it. So far so good. The light hasn't come back on yet. If it does come back on, I guess I will try replacing the gas cap.

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Mon Aug 11, 2008 4:15 pm

The light came back on again! This time I visually inspected the fuel cap. It looks as though every 1/8 of an inch there is a every small crack in the seal. I would assume that that would be the culprit. I guess my next step is to replace the fuel cap. Any suggestions on where to purchase or which cap to purchase?

Thanks,

-Bob

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Mon Aug 11, 2008 4:27 pm

Dealer

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Mon Aug 11, 2008 9:51 pm

I really wouldn't think that small cracks like that would make a huge difference but if it isn't sealing correctly than yes. I got a cap from walmart, cheap and locking to prevent those little gas gremlins from gettin at my stash!

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Aug 12, 2008 4:22 am

I have had one aftermarket cap with a spring that was too weak to pass. I did not realize that GM used caps with different pressure ratings. Once replaced with an AC Delco cap for the correct application, it passed and I had no more problems.

rlandis · Post by **rlandis** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 7:27 am

Well I've been surfin this forum for quite a few months now then yesterday I got the dreaded PO442. So I remembered the vent valve problem some of you have had so I took it off to clean it and found it was totally different than the earlier years mines a 2003

The thing is the filter seemed to be clean not really any dirt in it. Do you think that the spring is just getting weak? Or is it just a replace and find out scenario?

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 7:33 am

Cool, That is the one I recommend replacing the earlier model with.
Take the valve off the side and look at the little diaphragm. Make sure the spring is in place and it is setting properly.
You can test the solenoid using a 9 volt battery. Check for function.
Now all that said, a new one is only $18 at the GM dealership. AC Delco # 214-1078 , GM # 10382105
The solenoids have been failing and setting the light intermittently. new is not a bad choice.

Check the other stuff too. Gas cap , fill tube and hoses mainly.

rlandis · Post by **rlandis** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 7:52 am

Yeah I checked the spring it looked to be alright and I checked the hoses around that area. The gas cap looked ok. I might try and get a replacement for that valve the end of the week if the engine light comes back on. I cleared it for now gonna see if it comes back.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 7:54 am

Good plan. Be sure to check the filler tube and hoses there as well. A loose clamp is all it takes.

rlandis · Post by **rlandis** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 8:00 am

alright will do thanks a lot

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Fri Sep 19, 2008 5:45 am

I don't know what's going on with my truck, but I haven't gotten the code again since my last post. It just comes and goes as it pleases.

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Fri Sep 19, 2008 7:42 pm

WVHogRider wrote:I don't know what's going on with my truck, but I haven't gotten the code again since my last post. It just comes and goes as it pleases.

Don't feel alone on that one. Mine does the same thing. I've done all the fixes here and it just seems to have a mind of it's own.

I just clear the code and keep on truckin!

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Fri Sep 26, 2008 8:16 am

Well, guess what come on this morning......

Three months code free. Guess I jinxed myself. Haven't checked the code yet, but let me guess what will be there....

BobbleSmitty · Post by **BobbleSmitty** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 4:07 pm

My light has come back on a few times since my last post. I ordered a new canister/solenoid thing this time. My code turned from P0442 to P0446 this past week since I played around with the canister and tried to lubricate the spring with some spray. haha I guess that's probably not a good idea! The code P0446 could be set by the evaporative emissions vent valve leaking, so that's why I replaced it. My guess is that the code P0442 (which was a small leak) was going off because the solenoid wasn't functioning completly as it should. Hopefully now I have this all figured out and fixed!

zr2offroad · Post by **zr2offroad** » Wed Dec 17, 2008 11:51 am

If anyone ever needs a gas filler neck I have one sitting in my garage I almost tossed. My truck takes a differant neck. The one I got came with a replacment bed I got from the salvage yard.

I'm having problems with mine too. I got a p0102 p0445 and a p0449. I replaced the purge solenoid and that seems to have fixed my driveability problems but still got those codes shortly after clearing with the hypertech.

I got a vent solenoid on order. Hopefully this will fix it I already tried to clean it.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Dec 17, 2008 12:53 pm

Is the filler neck for a crew cab? If so does it have a vent tube , like the ones for the steel tank or no vent tube like the ABS tanks?

kwalsh · Post by **kwalsh** » Sun Feb 08, 2009 3:06 pm

I've had trouble filling up my gas tank for two fills in a row. The back pressure kicks the gas station pump off after a few seconds or about a 1/2 gallon. I can get about 3/4 of a gallon in if I throttle the handle on the gas stationi pump; either way it takes about 15 minutes to fill my tank.

This evening my '03 CC threw DTC P0446.

Am I looking at a new gas filler neck?
or
a a new EVAP canister? GM part # 10382105/ AC Delco 214-1078

Thanks

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Feb 08, 2009 3:23 pm

Filler neck.

Fuel spitting out filler neck.
Fuel Filler Neck Pipe Leak - Best Fix?

GM data wrote:Fuel Spits Back/Out When Filling Tank (Replace Fuel Filler Pipe Assembly) #03-06-04-058 - (Oct 2, 2003)
Fuel Spits Back/Out When Filling Tank (Replace Fuel Filler Pipe Assembly)

2003 Chevrolet S-10 Crew Cab Pickups

2003 GMC Sonoma Crew Cab Pickups

Built Prior to July, 2003
Condition

Some customers may comment that when filling the fuel tank, a small amount of fuel may spit back/out.
Correction

Replace the fuel tank filler pipe assembly with P/N 15124302. This new fuel tank filler pipe has an updated check valve as part of assembly which has been released to correct this condition. Refer to the Filler Tube Replacement procedure in the Engine Controls sub-section of the Service Manual (SI Document ID #692074).

This guy had the same issue and concluded the filler neck was probably the answer: Blocked tank vent; evap canister causing overflow at filler?

kwalsh · Post by **kwalsh** » Mon Feb 09, 2009 7:17 am

Thanks for the link HenryJ.

I was hoping to order the pipe assembly & install this upcoming weekend. All of that changed this morning; at the gas station all off the pumped gas spit back out. I had to get towed home.

JaVeRo · Post by **JaVeRo** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 4:47 pm

HenryJ wrote:Cool, That is the one I recommend replacing the earlier model with.

......

Now all that said, a new one is only $18 at the GM dealership. AC Delco # 214-1078 , GM # 10382105

I gave that AC Delco part number to the local parts house and they said it was replaced by something else. I gave him the GM part number and it was replaced by something else. He ordered it based on the new GM part number and I got one that looks identical to the picture posted above by rlandis, even has the PA-GF30 on top. Both part numbers are on the box, ACD# 214-2149 and GM# 25932571.

It's going on tonight.

James

jedthrocornpone · Post by **jedthrocornpone** » Wed Mar 25, 2009 5:01 pm

Ok so my 03 threw a SES light guy at parts house pulled the code and he said " you have a gross......a big leak in your emissions, you need to get in to a shop." so I'm assuming it was a (P0455 - Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak/no flow)) but he was shielding the code reader.

I come home and find this post pull off the filter assy and pull it apart and clean it pull a 9 volt form the smoke alarm and test the valve. I could not get it to do anything. so I re-assembled and reintalled untill the AM when the stealership opened.

stopped in before work gave them the part # above (AC Delco # 214-1078 , GM # 10382105) and they pulled a valve off the shelf. It has this on the box "ACD#214-2149 GM#25932571" and they took 27.46 from my wallet.

the thing is, the SES light went away so now I don't know maybe I failed at touching wires to the valve, or maybe its something else any thoughts?

to summerize AC Delco # 214-1078 , GM # 10382105 seems to have been replaced by AC Delco #214-2149 GM#25932571, oh and re-validating my skill level = parts swapper

maybe someday I'll move up to mechanic

JaVeRo · Post by **JaVeRo** » Fri Mar 27, 2009 6:13 am

It has to fail on two consecutive times during a cold start for the SES light to be set. If the parts guy cleared the codes, the light will not reset until then.

Conditions for running the DTC (from the book) include among others:

fuel level between 15-85 percent

engine coolant temperature (ECT) between 39-149 degrees F.

intake air temperature between (IAT) 39-167 degrees F.

startup ECT and IAT are within 16 degrees F of each other.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets (also from the book)
The control module illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on the second consecutive ignition cycle that the diagnostic runs and fails.

I would just replace the part and see it the code comes back. BUT that is advice from another "parts swapper".

James

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Fri Mar 27, 2009 4:26 pm

I never new such a thing existed.

But I was changing the rear diff fluid today, finally (by the time I got aorund to filling it up it was pouring the rain, and the pavement was wet. Ahhh Fun), so while under there I decided to clean it.

I have the round looking one pictured above on my 03 s-10. I had to spray with the PB Blater to get it to slide off. Fairly dirty. I hit it the the air comrpessor, then clean it up with a wet rag, then blew it dry with the compressor. Glad this thread was revived, lol.

jedthrocornpone · Post by **jedthrocornpone** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 12:05 am

parts guy did not reset the code the light stayed on the rest of the day. the next morning (second time the truck was started and ran after the code was checked) the ses light was gone.

so not sure what going on there.....

battery wasn't disconnected and it was only the 2nd turn of the key, so maybe the SES light fairy came down and turned the light off?

JaVeRo · Post by **JaVeRo** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 1:12 pm

(also from the book)

*The control module turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.

*A current DTC, Last Test Failed, clears when the diagnostic runs and passes.

*A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.

No mention about the SES light fairy, maybe they added that as an afterthought.

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Thu Oct 22, 2009 2:52 am

Just threw P0446 for the 3rd week in a row. Haven't had any problems with fueling up yet *knock on wood*. Am I looking at servicing the charcoal canister?

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Oct 22, 2009 4:59 am

P0446 is a circuit problem, not a leak. You need to check the evap vent solenoid. After removal, you can use a 9V battery to test it.

S-10CREWCAB.NET

Evap Vent Valve Filter

Evap Vent Valve Filter

DTC P0446 & Gas Tank Fill Trouble