4wd selector pushbuttons *solved-fuse*

Anything related to the factory RPO Crew Cab.

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Mike Mercury
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4wd selector pushbuttons *solved-fuse*

Post by Mike Mercury »

With all the snow today, I activated the 4WD via the dash mounted push button. It went into 4WD fine, but now won't come out of 4wd.

When I pushed the 2wd button, I heard the usual clicking noises, but the indicator stayed lit for 4wd (and it is indeed still in 4wd). If I push the 2wd button again, nothing happens and I don't even heard the usual "clicking" noises anymore.

It's always been finicky.... sometimes needing to push the 4wd or 2wd buttons multiple times to get it to engage one or the other mode; and sometimes needing to put the tranny in reverse for the 4wd to dis-engage (even though the 2wd button was lit)... but now it doesn't even try to switch back to 2wd.

2003 4.3l automatic; original owner, 70k miles.

Any clues on what to look for?
Mike Mercury
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Post by Mike Mercury »

follow up;

My first goal was to get the vehicle back into 2WD and wait until better weather to look things over. Since the transfer case was stuck in 4WD and the buttons on the dash did nothing (other than the 4WD LED was lit), I decided to disconnect the vacuum going to the front axle engagement vacuum diaphram... servo... thingy. Although the transfer case would still be in the 4WD mode; at least I could disengage the front axle,

I found out that this vacuum front-axle engagement device was located under the battery; but I couldn't see well enough to find the vacuum hose going to it; so I removed the battery completely... then the botton battery mount plate. And there was the actuator. I followed the vacuum hose up to a point I knew I could cut & plug the suction end; and did exactly that.

I re-installed the battery; reconnected the battery cables , and indeed the front axle was no longer engaged - although the 4WD pushbutton was still lit. After my test drive up & back from my driveway, I decided to try the dash pushbuttons again... and to my amazement the switch-ology and usual clicking noises had started functioning again.

I can only surmise that disconnecting and reconnecting the battery has reset "something". I did not reconnect the vacuum line to see if everything was fully working again - as I will wait for better weather to do that.
HCO4x4
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Post by HCO4x4 »

i have a different problem. a few months ago i went to go in 4wd and i saw the lights on the selector werent on.
so now i :
1. cant go 4wheeling
2. have a 2x4 truck
and 3. looked like a dumbass getting pulled out of the sand in front of everyone :lol:
i dont think its any mechanical problem, maybe the selector is broken?
all the fuses in the panel are good.
has this happened to anyone else?
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24digger
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Post by 24digger »

Try disconnecting the battery and see if it resets the system

Similar things have happened to me and disconnecting battery has helped me out.
[size=75]2002 Yellow Crewcab, Gaylord X2000 Lid, Ventvisors, Painted to match bugshield, Stepshields, K&N filter,rear swaybar, Bed X-tender,Window Tint, 1.25" wheel spacers,overhead console with trip computer, steering wheel with radio controls, bilsteins, optima redtop, taylor wires. flowmaster 40 muffler, energy suspension swaybar bushings[/size]
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Torskdoc
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Post by Torskdoc »

Part of the problem there is the actual cable itself. It's located in a really POOR area with regard to self preservation. With water, mud, battery fluid, etc in the area, it's a cinch that the cable can and will rust up.

So what do we do about it????? Usually nothing until that ONE TIME when you need it to work and it doesn't. DON'T BLAME the cable, blame the IDIOT ENGINEERS who thought up locating cable actuation next to a corrosion factory. :twisted:

Partial solution. Disconnect the vacuum actuator, spray PB BLASTER (NOT WD-40) down the cable AFTER you have cycled (or attempted to cycle) the cable. NOTE that the cable will be tight, and have a grainy feel as it slides in the outer sheath. Keep spraying and cycling. The cable will eventually loosen up. Once it does, fill the end boot with silicone grease (dielectric) and coat the outside with it also. Put it all back together.
This will keep the water out.

Complete solution is to get a NEW cable and replace. Still coat the end boot with dielectric grease.

Larry
2002 S-10 ZR-5 Quad-CAB
1995 GMC Jimmy 4Dr. SLT
HCO4x4
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Post by HCO4x4 »

i really dont think its the cable. i think its electrical. i guess it cant hurt to try that though. has this happened to you?

i have disconnected the battery and it didnt do anything
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Torskdoc
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Post by Torskdoc »

for Mike Mercury: Happened to me a couple of months ago on my '02. It partially engaged and had a hard time disengaging. Had basically the same problem on my '84 blazer about 20 years ago. Took the cable off and it was tight as all get out. Flushed it with PB BLASTER and got it working good. Now I lube it with PB every other oil change. http://www.s-10crewcab.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=6288


For HCO4X4: check the fuses underthe hood also. Check the connections for the shift motor on the transfer case, the actuator on the front axle, the switch itself(not likely, but....) and the encoder motor.

try these two links. Both are related to your problem in that they are problems with 4wd.
http://www.s-10crewcab.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4072
http://www.s-10crewcab.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=6313
2002 S-10 ZR-5 Quad-CAB
1995 GMC Jimmy 4Dr. SLT
HCO4x4
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Post by HCO4x4 »

now i feel like an idiot. back when the buttons werent working i blew a fuse. so i swaped it with the 4wd fuse. then i bought new buttons and i was sad to see that my 4wd didnt work. so last week my security system wasnt working and i thought maybe a fuse. i saw that i still had that bad 4wd fuse and said oh #%&&! so i ran up to the store, bought a pack of fuses and now i have a 4x4 again! :D then i went to cirtuit city and had them fix my alarm. what a good day.
[size=75]-2001 s-10 crew - K&N intake, 2" PA body lift, tbar crank, bilstein shocks, 15" american racing baja rims, 31x10.5r15 bfg MUD terrains[/size]