Fuel Filter

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 4:14 am

Looking to see at what milage people changed their fuel filters. I am approaching 15k and figured this would be a good time to replace the factory filter. Have seen that some people seem to gain a bit more mpg after change and would like to hope that would happen for me but not really expecting much.

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 4:24 am

I have been changing mine every other oil change at between 15-16k

SONOMA915 · Post by **SONOMA915** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 6:04 am

I changed mine at 30k. I'll probably start doing it at 15k. I did notice a little more mileage though.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 6:50 am

Same here 15-20k

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 7:26 pm

73k and still factory fuel filter. I refuse to change till I hit the famed 100k mark!

RidinhighS10 · Post by **RidinhighS10** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 9:59 pm

how much is that to replace? like around the same as other filters?

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Sun Dec 11, 2005 3:07 am

if im not mistakes 22-24 bucks

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sun Dec 11, 2005 3:58 am

WIX brand $14.90 + tax ordered from Amsoil when I ordered my new Oil filter Yesterday.

kc5gxc · Post by **kc5gxc** » Sun Dec 11, 2005 5:01 pm

The lowest price I could find on a fuel filter for my 2002 2.2 was $35.
That is a foreign made one. The American made one was about $45.
These things will last to 100G unless something bad goes wrong...and mine is gonna make it too...ha ha.
They tell you to bleed the fuel pressure before changing....I got a shrader valve on my fuel header....will an AC manifold/hose work to bleed the fuel? Will it fit? Otherwise, I guess you need to get a tool for it at the dealer??????? or figure out another way to bleed. Anybody ever bled without the tool? Don't think the filter connections will unsnap under pressure.
Thanks
Pete in MS

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Sun Dec 11, 2005 6:19 pm

no special tools required just leave it set for a few hours the pressure will go down

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Dec 11, 2005 7:18 pm

replacing fuel filter

HenryJ wrote:It is really no big deal. You can hit the gauge connection point to relieve the pressure, or this is how I do it:

Let it sit for at least two hours, to cool and some of the pressure will bleed down. (overnight is great) Open the gas cap to relieve any vapor pressure then close it.

Crawl underneath with a 13/16" and 5/8" open end wrenches (have the new filter ready), break loose the rear line to the fuel filter, if it is under pressure give it a minute to relieve (cover it with a rag and catch the rest in a drain pan if you can) . Snug it back up a little , and take loose the front line by squeezing the white plastic retaining clip and pulling the line forward.

Take the orange cap off the new fuel filter and slip it over the end of the old filter to prevent it from siphoning fuel, the line going front will stop draining pretty quickly.

Then , with the wrenches take the rear line loose and quickly swap filters. You should have time to attach the front line before the filter fills completely. Tighten the rear line and make sure that the retaining clip has attached for the front line.

If you have troubles getting the filter to slip out of the plastic bracket , take the bolt out and the lines that attach to it. I did not have to do this.

It is a messy job but not too bad if you learn where to be to stay out of the gas

When you're all done turn the ignition on..wait two seconds.. turn ignition off...wait ten seconds , check underneath for leaks, then repeat two more times. This will prime the system and purge any air.

You're done start it up !

rlith · Post by **rlith** » Mon Dec 12, 2005 5:13 am

kc5gxc wrote:The lowest price I could find on a fuel filter for my 2002 2.2 was $35.
That is a foreign made one. The American made one was about $45.
These things will last to 100G unless something bad goes wrong...and mine is gonna make it too...ha ha.
They tell you to bleed the fuel pressure before changing....I got a shrader valve on my fuel header....will an AC manifold/hose work to bleed the fuel? Will it fit? Otherwise, I guess you need to get a tool for it at the dealer??????? or figure out another way to bleed. Anybody ever bled without the tool? Don't think the filter connections will unsnap under pressure.
Thanks
Pete in MS

$12.00 at advance autoparts.

kc5gxc · Post by **kc5gxc** » Mon Dec 12, 2005 5:48 am

Hi Henry and tnx for the info....however, on this rig, there are no fittings that a wrench will fit on the fuel filter....all snap on....the fuel regulator is built into the filter...return line out the back of the filter....Have to bleed before unsnapping the filter lines. The hi cost of the filter is because of the regulator built into it, I guess. I may be able to put a rag over the schrader valve on the fuel header and bleed that way, but wud rather use a fitting of some type and also need a connector and gage to check the pressure when needed...may have to rig up a tool like the GM tool.
Thanks
Pete in MS

Post by **Walt** » Mon Dec 12, 2005 6:41 am

Hey Pete, where in MS are ya? It'll be nice to have another representative from the magnolia state

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Mon Dec 12, 2005 1:39 pm

welcome kc5gxc

just use a rag not much will come out just dont lay right under it

there is a bleed on the motor that looks like a valve stem with a cap just release the pressure there if need be.

if you need pics let me know I will take some

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Dec 12, 2005 3:21 pm

Apparently the2.2L engine is different than our set up

He has the disconnects front and rear like we have on the forward part of our filter. It should still work by letting it set over night like HenryJ recommends.

kc5gxc · Post by **kc5gxc** » Mon Dec 12, 2005 4:03 pm

Yep, I got the 2.2l and it's an extended cab. I guess the crews don't come with the 2.2 ! Thanks for all the info. The Haynes manual does not show my fuel filter setup. I just got in my Helms manuals and they show it all....but boy, they cost $$$$$$ but they will pay for themselves over time as generally keep one for a long long time.
Thanks
Pete in MS

daisy · Post by **daisy** » Fri Jan 06, 2006 6:54 pm

I am having to replace mine about every 3rd oil change @ 9-10k miles. I can tell when it needs replaced; gas mileage goes to hell, throttle response is null, and overall truck feels crappy. Throw a filter on it, and it's fine.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jan 06, 2006 7:02 pm

daisy wrote:I am having to replace mine about every 3rd oil change @ 9-10k miles...

You really need to find a better gas station. Your tank may also be so contaminated that removal and cleaning may be a good idea.

We have a local fuel station that is renowned for the same issues for all their customers. The fuel is cheap and people just don't add up the expense in damages to their vehicles. The fuel systems suffer early death.
Some times there is no other option. You just have to replace the components as they fail. If your filter is constantly dirty think of how the fuel pump has been pumping all that crud.

daisy · Post by **daisy** » Fri Jan 06, 2006 7:04 pm

Well, that's one of the reasons the truck is going bye bye. Replacing a $10 filter is one thing; $300 for a fuel pump I can't stomach.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 10:59 pm

Yea, sounds like you need to find a new gas station for filling up. It's a fuel problem, not a chevy problem. I got 75k miles and still running original same filter.

daisy · Post by **daisy** » Sun Jan 08, 2006 7:49 am

quickbiker wrote:Yea, sounds like you need to find a new gas station for filling up. It's a fuel problem, not a chevy problem. I got 75k miles and still running original same filter.

Which would be fine if I only used one place to fill up at. I'm not going to replace filters and refill at different stations just to see who has bad gas.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sun Jan 08, 2006 9:36 am

Then your best bet would be to get an older vehicle that has a mechanical fuel pump ($20) and a carb mounted filter ($1). Problem solved.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Thu Jan 19, 2006 2:24 pm

Finally got the fuel filter installed. What a PITA do you think they could put it in a worse location? Had to fight with torsion bar, cross member and plastic bracket that would not let go of the filter without "persuasion" could not get a socket onto the nut holding it on the frame due to a piece of support plastic that was inside the bracket would have needed a thin walled socket and the nut on the fuel line was corroded had to liberally spray with penetrating oil to get loose. Oh well, guess I can ignore it for another 15k now. Sure hope I get a little better gas milage to compensate for all the trouble.

GNandGS · Post by **GNandGS** » Sat Jan 21, 2006 11:47 pm

I suppose one could pull the fuse or disconnect the fuel pump and then START the vehicle. This will greatly reduce the pressure in the rail.

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Sun Jan 22, 2006 3:07 am

theres a Valve Stem on the back driver side of the motor push it in it will release pressure or just leave it sit for several hours and remove the gas cap

GNandGS · Post by **GNandGS** » Sun Jan 22, 2006 6:41 am

True, BUT thats a lot of pressure and it might suprise you how much fuel is in the rail/line.

No need to wait overnight or make a (bigger) mess. Disable the pump and start it. Heck, just a few cranks will take off quite a bit of pressure.

Once the majority of pressure is gone its much easier to use a rag for the rest at the rail (or just loosen the filter line).

Anyone know the pressure the pump is regulated to? I assume its the same from 2000 - 2004?

I have a line that I could attach to the rail when I decide to do the filter... just not sure if I'll bother.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jan 22, 2006 8:19 am

I wonder if disabling the fuel pump and starting would set a code and the MIL?

While the pressure is high, the volume is low so the pressure is relieved quickly.
You can use the schrader valve on the fuel line in the engine compartment. Holding a rag over it to catch the fuel is a good idea, and this must be done with the engine cold.

I usually just crack the line loose at the filter and catch the fuel in a drain pan.

GNandGS · Post by **GNandGS** » Sun Jan 22, 2006 8:38 am

HenryJ wrote:I wonder if disabling the fuel pump and starting would set a code and the MIL?

While the pressure is high, the volume is low so the pressure is relieved quickly.
You can use the schrader valve on the fuel line in the engine compartment. Holding a rag over it to catch the fuel is a good idea, and this must be done with the engine cold.

I usually just crack the line loose at the filter and catch the fuel in a drain pan.

Only turning the key long enough to have the pressure drop... may not even start. No downsides. I cant say what would happen if one would keep trying. <grin>

Look, nothing wrong with any above suggestions. Its just that when I decide to do some little task (like fuel filter) I dont want to wait or "plan" around it.

S-10CREWCAB.NET

Fuel Filter

Fuel Filter

They are expensive

Re: They are expensive

Reply to Henry J

Thanks guys