Fuel Filter

Anything related to the factory RPO Crew Cab.

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04crewvt
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Fuel Filter

Post by 04crewvt »

Looking to see at what milage people changed their fuel filters. I am approaching 15k and figured this would be a good time to replace the factory filter. Have seen that some people seem to gain a bit more mpg after change and would like to hope that would happen for me but not really expecting much.
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Post by jeff024 »

I have been changing mine every other oil change at between 15-16k
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Post by SONOMA915 »

I changed mine at 30k. I'll probably start doing it at 15k. I did notice a little more mileage though.
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Post by HenryJ »

Same here 15-20k

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Post by quickbiker »

73k and still factory fuel filter. I refuse to change till I hit the famed 100k mark! :shock: :D :wink:
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Post by RidinhighS10 »

how much is that to replace? like around the same as other filters?
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Post by jeff024 »

if im not mistakes 22-24 bucks
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Post by 04crewvt »

WIX brand $14.90 + tax ordered from Amsoil when I ordered my new Oil filter Yesterday.
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They are expensive

Post by kc5gxc »

The lowest price I could find on a fuel filter for my 2002 2.2 was $35.
That is a foreign made one. The American made one was about $45.
These things will last to 100G unless something bad goes wrong...and mine is gonna make it too...ha ha.
They tell you to bleed the fuel pressure before changing....I got a shrader valve on my fuel header....will an AC manifold/hose work to bleed the fuel? Will it fit? Otherwise, I guess you need to get a tool for it at the dealer??????? or figure out another way to bleed. Anybody ever bled without the tool? Don't think the filter connections will unsnap under pressure.
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Post by jeff024 »

no special tools required just leave it set for a few hours the pressure will go down
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Post by HenryJ »

replacing fuel filter
HenryJ wrote:It is really no big deal. You can hit the gauge connection point to relieve the pressure, or this is how I do it:

Let it sit for at least two hours, to cool and some of the pressure will bleed down. (overnight is great) Open the gas cap to relieve any vapor pressure then close it.

Crawl underneath with a 13/16" and 5/8" open end wrenches (have the new filter ready), break loose the rear line to the fuel filter, if it is under pressure give it a minute to relieve (cover it with a rag and catch the rest in a drain pan if you can) . Snug it back up a little , and take loose the front line by squeezing the white plastic retaining clip and pulling the line forward.

Take the orange cap off the new fuel filter and slip it over the end of the old filter to prevent it from siphoning fuel, the line going front will stop draining pretty quickly.

Then , with the wrenches take the rear line loose and quickly swap filters. You should have time to attach the front line before the filter fills completely. Tighten the rear line and make sure that the retaining clip has attached for the front line.

If you have troubles getting the filter to slip out of the plastic bracket , take the bolt out and the lines that attach to it. I did not have to do this.

It is a messy job but not too bad if you learn where to be to stay out of the gas :)

When you're all done turn the ignition on..wait two seconds.. turn ignition off...wait ten seconds , check underneath for leaks, then repeat two more times. This will prime the system and purge any air.

You're done start it up !

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Re: They are expensive

Post by rlith »

kc5gxc wrote:The lowest price I could find on a fuel filter for my 2002 2.2 was $35.
That is a foreign made one. The American made one was about $45.
These things will last to 100G unless something bad goes wrong...and mine is gonna make it too...ha ha.
They tell you to bleed the fuel pressure before changing....I got a shrader valve on my fuel header....will an AC manifold/hose work to bleed the fuel? Will it fit? Otherwise, I guess you need to get a tool for it at the dealer??????? or figure out another way to bleed. Anybody ever bled without the tool? Don't think the filter connections will unsnap under pressure.
Thanks
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Post by kc5gxc »

Hi Henry and tnx for the info....however, on this rig, there are no fittings that a wrench will fit on the fuel filter....all snap on....the fuel regulator is built into the filter...return line out the back of the filter....Have to bleed before unsnapping the filter lines. The hi cost of the filter is because of the regulator built into it, I guess. I may be able to put a rag over the schrader valve on the fuel header and bleed that way, but wud rather use a fitting of some type and also need a connector and gage to check the pressure when needed...may have to rig up a tool like the GM tool.
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Post by Walt »

Hey Pete, where in MS are ya? It'll be nice to have another representative from the magnolia state :D
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Post by jeff024 »

welcome kc5gxc


just use a rag not much will come out just dont lay right under it

there is a bleed on the motor that looks like a valve stem with a cap just release the pressure there if need be.

if you need pics let me know I will take some
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Post by F9K9 »

Apparently the2.2L engine is different than our set up :wink:

He has the disconnects front and rear like we have on the forward part of our filter. It should still work by letting it set over night like HenryJ recommends.
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Thanks guys

Post by kc5gxc »

Yep, I got the 2.2l and it's an extended cab. I guess the crews don't come with the 2.2 ! Thanks for all the info. The Haynes manual does not show my fuel filter setup. I just got in my Helms manuals and they show it all....but boy, they cost $$$$$$ but they will pay for themselves over time as generally keep one for a long long time.
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Post by daisy »

I am having to replace mine about every 3rd oil change @ 9-10k miles. I can tell when it needs replaced; gas mileage goes to hell, throttle response is null, and overall truck feels crappy. Throw a filter on it, and it's fine.
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Post by HenryJ »

daisy wrote:I am having to replace mine about every 3rd oil change @ 9-10k miles...
You really need to find a better gas station. Your tank may also be so contaminated that removal and cleaning may be a good idea.

We have a local fuel station that is renowned for the same issues for all their customers. The fuel is cheap and people just don't add up the expense in damages to their vehicles. The fuel systems suffer early death.
Some times there is no other option. You just have to replace the components as they fail. If your filter is constantly dirty think of how the fuel pump has been pumping all that crud.

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Post by daisy »

Well, that's one of the reasons the truck is going bye bye. Replacing a $10 filter is one thing; $300 for a fuel pump I can't stomach.
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Post by quickbiker »

Yea, sounds like you need to find a new gas station for filling up. It's a fuel problem, not a chevy problem. I got 75k miles and still running original same filter.
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Post by daisy »

quickbiker wrote:Yea, sounds like you need to find a new gas station for filling up. It's a fuel problem, not a chevy problem. I got 75k miles and still running original same filter.
Which would be fine if I only used one place to fill up at. I'm not going to replace filters and refill at different stations just to see who has bad gas.
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Post by quickbiker »

Then your best bet would be to get an older vehicle that has a mechanical fuel pump ($20) and a carb mounted filter ($1). Problem solved. :wink:
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Post by 04crewvt »

Finally got the fuel filter installed. What a PITA do you think they could put it in a worse location? Had to fight with torsion bar, cross member and plastic bracket that would not let go of the filter without "persuasion" could not get a socket onto the nut holding it on the frame due to a piece of support plastic that was inside the bracket would have needed a thin walled socket and the nut on the fuel line was corroded had to liberally spray with penetrating oil to get loose. Oh well, guess I can ignore it for another 15k now. Sure hope I get a little better gas milage to compensate for all the trouble.
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Post by GNandGS »

I suppose one could pull the fuse or disconnect the fuel pump and then START the vehicle. This will greatly reduce the pressure in the rail.
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Post by jeff024 »

theres a Valve Stem on the back driver side of the motor push it in it will release pressure or just leave it sit for several hours and remove the gas cap
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Post by GNandGS »

True, BUT thats a lot of pressure and it might suprise you how much fuel is in the rail/line.

No need to wait overnight or make a (bigger) mess. Disable the pump and start it. Heck, just a few cranks will take off quite a bit of pressure.

Once the majority of pressure is gone its much easier to use a rag for the rest at the rail (or just loosen the filter line).

Anyone know the pressure the pump is regulated to? I assume its the same from 2000 - 2004?

I have a line that I could attach to the rail when I decide to do the filter... just not sure if I'll bother.
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Post by HenryJ »

I wonder if disabling the fuel pump and starting would set a code and the MIL?

While the pressure is high, the volume is low so the pressure is relieved quickly.
You can use the schrader valve on the fuel line in the engine compartment. Holding a rag over it to catch the fuel is a good idea, and this must be done with the engine cold.

I usually just crack the line loose at the filter and catch the fuel in a drain pan.

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Post by GNandGS »

HenryJ wrote:I wonder if disabling the fuel pump and starting would set a code and the MIL?

While the pressure is high, the volume is low so the pressure is relieved quickly.
You can use the schrader valve on the fuel line in the engine compartment. Holding a rag over it to catch the fuel is a good idea, and this must be done with the engine cold.

I usually just crack the line loose at the filter and catch the fuel in a drain pan.
Only turning the key long enough to have the pressure drop... may not even start. No downsides. I cant say what would happen if one would keep trying. <grin>

Look, nothing wrong with any above suggestions. Its just that when I decide to do some little task (like fuel filter) I dont want to wait or "plan" around it.