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I picked up a HD drag link and tie rod set up for my heep on an Ebay scatch and dent auction for about $150 less than MSRP. Turns out that one of the tie rod ends has the threads severely buggered up. New ones are $50+. The threads are damaged on the part that the nut bolts on to. I have very little experience with tap and dies other than cleaning up a threaded hole and that was several decades ago. I called my usual supplier and he advised the TREs are in short supply and that I should be able fix it with a single "die" and they can be purchased individually. Well if, I can determine the correct size how do I go about this?

How or what do I need to turn the die on the threaded portion? I assume it is the longer tool in the middle of the kit pictured below. Is that tool a common size? I am not capable of spending big bucks on a complete kit at this time. Any advice would be appreciated.

First off you need to decide if is coarse threads or fine. My guess is that it is fine threads.
If you have the same threads on another end, use that end or nut as an example. Hit the hardware store and find a bolt or nut that fits it.

Lets say that you find it to be 1/2" NF thread. Then you can buy a die for that.

Another option may be to buy a re-thread set {NAPA Part # BK 61082} $17.99-$19.99
Hex Die Kit, High Carbon Steel; NF Threads In 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16", 5/8" & 3/4"
That should cover what you need , unless it is coarse threaded or metric.

Here's something I actually have some knowledge in, I was in precision maching at tech school. Wanted to be a machinist but am now buster brown.


Any ways, what I would do if you don't currently have a tap die set, doesn't sound like you do. Take thr nut, just like brule said, to a hardware store and find out why ya got. If there's a good section of thread you can take a thread pitch gauge tool to it to figure out it's thread. If you have a tap die cut, ID just take a tap and find out which easily threads the nut, then take the same die and clean up the threads.

Harbor freight actuall has a nice tap/die set for $10, or maybe I got mine a few bucks off onsale. I used the heck out of one in shop and for harbor freight they held up pretty well. But once you find out the size you need what you pictured is what you want.

Both responses are full of good information and I thank you both. Through all my searching, I have determined that is is possibly a 5/8" fine thread. I can take one of my bolts/fasteners to Lowes or elsewhere to be sure. I just use the tool/holder to begin threading, back off, clean the junk out, add a little oil and reattack? Correct? Maybe a photo will assist in determining if it isn't to far inside waterfowl suicide levels.

After seeing the picture I have to be honest, those threads are beyond repair. My friend who is a 20 year experienced machinist also agrees after seeing the damage. Since this is a steering part, it would be unsafe to try to fix. I know that's not what you wanted to hear, but I am being honest, and I would not want you to get hurt if those threads failed at the wrong time. I'm sure you can locate a replacement.

Steve

killian96ss wrote:After seeing the picture I have to be honest, those threads are beyond repair...........

I was afraid of that. I just need to get to the good threads that are past the damaged threads. Those threads actually are untouched. The grease and lint from a rag make them look worse than they are in the photo. This is the TRE that connects the drag link to the pitman arm, though.

ID Agree with the above, but also since there is a hole for a cotter pin I'm assuming the nut threads past it... If you clean em up a little like you described and can put the cotter pin Through I think you should have any issues.

But better safe then sorry too! Lol. But seriously if it's like I just said I think you will be good.

The threads above the hole for the pin are not used to retain the nut and inconsequential. The nut is threaded below that hole and those threads look untouched.
I agree that steering parts should be as good as possible, but I think I too would clean those threads up and see what you have left.
It looks like it is worth a shot to me.

Well, I just realized another downfall. (looking skyward now) The threaded portion spins pretty easily in the other part of the TRE. It's going to be tough to hold the tapered portion without scarring it. It's located under the grease boot in this photo.

Drill a hole in a piece of bar stock to the diameter of half the taper. Clamp that tight to the ball joint using a vice or open jaw clamping pliers. That will hold it while you carefully chase the threads.
Using mild steel it will not damage the taper.
Run the die back and forth to chew your way through the damage. Use lots of cutting oil.

Napa hooked me up when Fastenal was a bust. $3.49 out the door. 1/2" x 20 die. I didn't have a 1" 12 pt socket but, a 1" boxed end wrench did the trick. I dropped by the house at lunch and did the deed.

Do we get an after photo?

HenryJ wrote:Do we get an after photo?

Battery is charging

Clock is ticking

Geesh. okay here they are

All the damaged area was around and outside of the cotter key hole area. I only needed to get past that for a solid hook up.

Good job.

And to think, you haven't even got around to installing em yet! Have ducks started heading north yet? lol.

fallvitals wrote:Good job..............

Thanks! I am still waiting on a couple of grease boots that need replaced. The seller mentioned them but, missed the threads on this TRE with his listing. I do believe him because he has offered a full refund and then today he wanted to search for a TRE that he might have in his store. Once the boots arrive, I should be good to go

Looks really good now!

Even if you don't care, I still feel better telling you that even after the clean up the threads still look really bad, and unsafe. My friend who fixes s### like this all day, says those threads are no good and will most likely strip out. The threads above the cotter pin hole are really bad, but even the threads below the hole look bad and there is not enough material left to hold a load without stripping. Sorry if I'm being a downer, I wouldn't let any of my friends use a part that damaged. Be safe Reed, there is nothing else i can say!

Steve

Steve, very little load is actually on the threads themselves. Currie specs them to only 45 ft lbs. The vast majority of the load is below the threaded section on the tapered shaft. Once they have been on awhile I would almost think about running without a nut on there. I said "almost think" think about it. You are aware of how difficult they are to remove when replacing a bad unit.



In any event, the seller is looking for a replacement and if, he locates one, this will hopefully end up as a spare.

I do appreciate the concern and your need to express it.

Sorry to stir things up. You know I will speak my mind. I would be happy to explain the correct process for thread repair if you like. Using a cutting die on damaged threads to fix them only makes the problem worse. A thread clean up die should have been used instead. These do not cut new threads, they just removed the damaged areas. I could go into detail, but only if your interested. There is nothing else you can do now except keep an eye on that part and check it from time to time.

Steve

I've spent the last hour trying to find a hinged thread restorer that I have seen in the past. If I ever find it I'll try to post a link. Edit After further searches, the web site is www.chaseembacktools.com. A little more expensive than I thought, but still worth it IMO.

killian96ss wrote:......Using a cutting die on damaged threads to fix them only makes the problem worse. A thread clean up die should have been used instead.......

I obviously did not know there was a difference but, now I know. Thanks

rlrnr53 wrote:I've spent the last hour trying to find a hinged thread restorer............A little more expensive than I thought, but still worth it IMO.

$14.95 shipped versus $49.95, without shipping, looks like a deal to me.