S-10CREWCAB.NET

I really should be lashed a few times. The CC was fresh when I went to meet Brule in Moab a year ago. I mentioned to Brule that I needed to do an oil change when I returned home. He told me to relax and that 4k on the oil was no biggee.

Well it is almost a year since I got back from meeting Brule in Moab. I thought that today was a good day to start getting my CC ready for March '10! I haven't put 300 miles on the CC since I got back but, I needed to work on the CC for the upcoming Moab trip.



The yeller bus needed a thorough check out so. I pulled the front skid to lube everything! The skid has taken a beating in 5 yrs.

Here is the skid new.



A shot taken today...........



There is a bunch of scarring on the skid.

I also washed the CC today. What did you do?

f9k9 wrote:I also washed the CC today. What did you do?

Nothin! Been ice storming out for two days now an I ain't up for that kinda discomfort while workin in the fresh air and sunshine garage. Oh, I guess I have looked out the window at the ice building up on it a coupla times.

I'm changing a fuel filter , rotating tires and considering a transmission dialysis.

Transmission dialysis is something I need to do. Would have already done it again if, I had access to a machine like some people have. If, I do it like some forums suggest, which cooler line would I pull, upper or lower?

Something else that I do now after wrenching on heeps for a couple of years is applying anti-seize on almost all fasteners. I didn't like how the skid bolts felt when I removed them. Messy stuff but, I like it!

Do you have a cooler? If you do , intercept it.
It flows like this: lower line pumps fluid from the transmission to where I attach the hose and route it to the aux cooler. It then leaves the aux. cooler and returns to the lower connection on the in tank stock cooler. Flows through it and back to the transmission via the upper steel line.
If you have an adapter you can hook your hose to the upper radiator in tank transmission cooler. If not then the lower line coming from the transmission. That may be easier said than done.

If, I remember correctly we are set up the same way on the aux cooler.

I did the lower line on mine. If yours is the same it would be easy. Just take loose the upper hose and attach a length of hose to the cooler. Drop that one in a bucket and start pumping.

You have a 50/50 shot at not making a huge mess

I just got back from a trip to visit a good friend that is going to have chemo and radation treatment starting today. Ineed to change oil, and install synthetic gear oil in the diff. Regarding never sieze, it is almost manditory at work. Road salt in the amounts our trucks are in neccitates generous amounts of the slick stuff. We prefer the copper based version, as it seems to last longer and stays on better.
I need to flush my transmission and change the filter too. I hope to get this done inthe next couple of weeks, along with putting another coat of paint on the fuel door. On another note, does any one know of a simple way to remove what appears to be sand abrasions on a windsield outside of replacing the windshield?

The front windshield is pretty hard and doesn't always polish out very good. Eastwood makes a polishing kit that does a pretty good job. I have one and have used it a couple times on hard to find glass.
My glass shop guy says that in areas that get sand blasted like ours, every five years or so the windshield should be replaced. I tend to agree with him. If I get a chip in glass that old, he'll usually opt for replacement rather than repair.

Thanks for the quick reply, I guessed that would be the answer, but I may try try it to keep dowm osts.

HenryJ wrote:..............You have a 50/50 shot at not making a huge mess

Was that necessary? You are fully aware of my luck!

rlrnr53 wrote:................We prefer the copper based version, as it seems to last longer and stays on better........

Is the copper based version readily available in the "jar" size?

Put my 195 stat back in, with winter knocking 180 just doesn't get it.

Horsehammerr wrote:Put my 195 stat back in, with winter knocking 180 just doesn't get it.

It will work positioned closer to the grille. I went through two falls of switching it!

Can't get my thermo(stat) any closer to the grill.

What about the IAT?

yes. We usually buy 5 or 6 bottles at a time from avendor. Permatex shows 3 different types on their website

My IAT is moved to the front side of my aircleaner cap. Did that the same time as the aircleaner mod and Quad headlight mod.

Nothing too special going on here. I need to clean up my winter rims/snow tires and get them balanced and changed over as well as getting the slide pins on the calipers lubed up before winter salt season hits.

04crewvt wrote:.............getting the slide pins on the calipers lubed up before winter salt season hits.

Glad you reminded me!

Gotta take mine in for an A/C service, it's hot around here

spitting snow here today at will be in the 30's overnight

Just had a few inches of wet snow few days ago.

You guys know how to put a damper on things, I wasn't wanting to hear the "S" word until much later, about May or June.

What have I done to the crew today?.......Stopped by a car lot to see how much I could get for it! Oh, and I'll be stopping on my way home to get another set of headlight bulbs & door pins. This thing just got about $500 worth of parts put on it not even 4 months ago, and it hasn't even been used that much due to utilizing my bike. It's really starting to irritate me, and I know there's some other issues....Fuel leak from the filler neck area, (due to an electronic brake wire that shorted & must have burnt a hole in the tank/neck), blower motor is going, CV axle to replace, engine oil leaks, steering pump freezing issues, still getting DTC's for the small evap leak, and brakes again.

Dump that sucker and buy a Toyota.

I've got my eye on a couple newer full size Chevy/GMC's at a local lot.....I can't afford new right now. I may ride the CC through winter, but that may be it for the CC. I now have the GF moved in & she's paying some of the monthly bills, so a "new" truck may be doable by spring.

You will find similar problems in the GM fullsize. Maybe try another brands problems?

HenryJ wrote:Dump that sucker and buy a Toyota.

Thats depressing.

It's also a COP-OUT !!

HenryJ wrote:You will find similar problems in the GM fullsize. Maybe try another brands problems?

That may be true, but a full size is needed....remember I have a 20' camper to haul during the summer & the CC was having a pretty good work out while hauling it. I could also use the full size bed for hauling my four-wheeler all winter when I go hunting. Also, I now have more than just my daughter to haul around when I add in the GF & her three daughters for a total of 6 occupants, and that's not including our pets. I'm not sure when it will happen, but I'll miss my CC when it does... ...I know because I had the truck out on some paths last night scouting some hunting spots that I know a full size just will not fit, but I guess that's what the four-wheeler is for though.

Edited: Plus my daughter, GF, & her three daughters have all been devising a plan for me to get an even larger camper, or to add a boat to my list of toys. I guess I'm postponing adding my second harley to the garage.

The need to go fullsize is definitely there.

Just finished back flushing the heater core, not enough heat on thes 27 degree mornings. After flushing, heat is again in the cab.

WHAT HAVE YOU DONE TO YOUR CREW TODAY?

In the process of doing the Skidz cuts right now.

I just undid my "Hot Feet Fix". It's that time of the year.

14x4 wrote:

WHAT HAVE YOU DONE TO YOUR CREW TODAY?

In the process of doing the Skidz cuts right now.

Good luck and keep us posted!

kwalsh wrote:I just undid my "Hot Feet Fix". It's that time of the year.

I actually almost forgot this unseemingly important mod. I don't actually remember what condition mine is in. I do appreciate the reminder and will check on mine in the AM.

Double post.

f9k9 wrote:Good luck and keep us posted!

Thank you! All I was able to finish tonight was the back end. Those front support arms on the rear end are a pain! I had to jerry rig one of them (couldn't bend it like the directions say) and I didn't even put the other one back on! I have to do it tomorrow, along with completing the front.

Is there anything in particular I should be away of when cutting the front? Theres a bunch of junk on the inside... I don't know how well I'm going to fair.

A Good Sharp Fine Tooth Metal sawsall blade, SLOW Steady cut.

14x4 wrote:..........Is there anything in particular I should be away of when cutting the front? Theres a bunch of junk on the inside... I don't know how well I'm going to fair.

Bear in mind that you are not the first one into these uncharted waters. I literally did not even know what a sawzall was until this forum.

One thing I remember is that your second front wheel cut will be better than the first one and take half the time. The angling of the saw blade's tip towards the front of the CC is the key but, Brule's instructions really are well written. I reread them so many times when I did my wheel wells that it's not funny.

14x4 wrote:...Those front support arms on the rear end are a pain! I had to jerry rig one of them (couldn't bend it like the directions say) and I didn't even put the other one back on!

You will need to remove them to twist them. One end in a vise and a pair of locking pliers would be the easiest way. If you don't have that, you will need to improvise. A piece of pipe slipped over the 90 degree end and the other with a long bolt or heavy screw driver through it. Do the best you can. If you have access to a torch, heat will help.

HenryJ wrote:

14x4 wrote:...Those front support arms on the rear end are a pain! I had to jerry rig one of them (couldn't bend it like the directions say) and I didn't even put the other one back on!

You will need to remove them to twist them. One end in a vise and a pair of locking pliers would be the easiest way. If you don't have that, you will need to improvise. A piece of pipe slipped over the 90 degree end and the other with a long bolt or heavy screw driver through it. Do the best you can. If you have access to a torch, heat will help.

Thats exactly what I told the guy who was helping me - but he said "No way - it will crack."

I Just grabbed hold of the little mothers with visegrips and twisted them around to where the would reattach to the original hole. The inner fender where they are attached just twisted to where I needed them.

Broke down and replaced both rear shaft U-joints. Front one was real stiff and rusty and rear one was nearly ready to roll out and chuck the shaft. Phew glad I didn't wait any longer.

Turned my A/C fan switch to setting number 2.. no more number 4 to cool the truck off. Come January, it might go all the way down to 1.

border man wrote:Turned my A/C fan switch to setting number 2.. no more number 4 to cool the truck off. Come January, it might go all the way down to 1.

Really feel for ya man! What ya gonna do when ya have to go to just rolling down the windows? Put on a parka?

What is this hot foot fix you are all speak of ?? My feet are never hot in my Crew, He says as it took till 10 am on Tuesday before the frost was off the windshield. By January it will take 2 miles for the heat to even start to show up and nearly 5 before the truck will shift into OD.

I sure like the switch I added to my hot foot fix and heater control valve. I can switch back and fourth easily.

I just finished the Skidz cuts. Everything looks pretty good considering I've never done body work.

However, the metal shields/covers on the inside of the front wheel-wells are sticking out farther than desired.

Just finished replacing the blower motor. Dang little truck ate my 1/4" ratchet 2 sockets and one screw that bolts in the blower motor.

I also broke the wire loom clip for the ECM. Is that a bad thing should I zip tie that loom to the rest of the clip or will it ride ok like that?

Almost forgot washed it up a little it was being a dirty little truck!!!

Chris.

Zip tire it to something near by and you should be fine!

Zip ties it is then. Those little buggers are working their way to the same fame as duct tape and bailing wire.

Chris.